LT1 and a T56 in a 55 Chevy

[2Loose]

The 3/8" studs on the firewall to mount the brake mc, were too short for this thick flange on the mc...

Looked at a couple of options, but the quickest was to cut the heads off a couple 1/2" bolts and thread them to fit over the 3/8" studs, with locktite....

That worked fine, except I can't get at the left side nut to tighten it with a wrench, the bracket
for the proportioning valve is in the way, so now I need to modify that bracket so I can get a
wrench in there to tighten that up...

more pix here

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

Innovation!

 

[2Loose]

Had a few minutes yesterday, so worked on that proportioning
valve mounting bracket....

After some heating and hammering, I got what
looked like a pretty good fit, the mounting bolt
for the MC is exposed, and the rear MC brake line
connection is exposed, now let's make the connections
to the proportioning valve fit ok....

None of my brake tools will bend a tight enough
curve to get a good fit for these 3/16" steel short
lines from the MC to the proportioning valve, so I
ground a groove in a 1/2" bolt to try to bend and
get a good tight fit....

Started working the front connection first....

And ran out of time, will work on it some more tomorrow....

 

[2Loose]

But the rear one didn't look so good....

Went to NAPA and bought some new tubing
and it came out right this time....

Looks pretty good....

Plenty of room for the clutch hydraulic master cylinder....

Looking at the shop manual for the '93 camaro 6 speed
clutch setup, I realized I set it up wrong, it's a "PULL" clutch,
not the "standard" "PUSH" clutch, and I had assembled
it wrong, so now I hafta pull the tranny and clutch apart
and put that throw out bearing back in correctly so it
will "PULL" the clutch fingers to work the clutch....

Laters....

 

[Indycars]

That's got to be difficult to bend such a short brake line, but hey you pulled
it off !

Was that a straight cut in the 1/2 inch bolt or did you have radius/turn cut in
the bolt? Great idea !

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

Awesome Willy !

 

[2Loose]

I radiased it around the bolt, right up against the bolt head, just wide enough for a 3/16" line, for a 90 deg bend, plus a little more just in case...

 

[2Loose]

Some flash for the dash arrived today,
Very Nice !!

 

[2Loose]

Found this 3/16" tubing bending pliers online,
I'll be using this from now on for these chores....

Not a very good pic, but a definite upgrade on my homemade grooved bolt....

 

[2Loose]

Pulled the stock '55 cover off the tranny tunnel inside,
not enough room, need more room....

So I made some more room....

That helped, but the motor mounts will not "sag" to any degree....
so the tranny has to come straight back, need to cut more....

Ahhh, that 'll do it !!!

The tranny came right out now, and I'll have to fab some tab
strips along those edges to put the cut pieces back in place
with a bunch of sheet metal screws....

I used to wrestle these trannies in and out on my chest....
bench pressing them in and out with no problems....

Ha, finally broke down and bought a tranny jack....
Much, much easier....

Pour me another double scotch, bartender....

 

[Grumpy]

https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-low-profile-transmission-jack-60240.html

yes thats, also been my take on the trans removal process, those jacks make its so much easier,\
get a 25% off coupon before purchasing one

https://rivetsinstock.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/blind-threaded-studs.html
https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/stainless-steel-rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts

https://www.hansonrivet.com/threaded-inserts-2/thin-nut-threaded-inserts/

During installation the body collapses on the back side which grips the inside of the mounting surface.

• Fastens in blind holes
• Very thin flange or head
• Knurled body for anti-rotation
• Wide grip range for metal and other materials
• Easy installation with manual or pneumatic tools

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/pop-rivet-tools.2750/#post-46136
using a welded lower , level re-enforcing lip around and under the transmission access panel, and threaded rivet nuts and a carefully matched panel would make the trans cover plate much better to work with

 

[T-Test]

Just make a new cover for the tunnel out of sheet metal or aluminum and screw it in place instead of piecing the old parts back together and cut hole for gear shifter.

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

I like how you do things Willy !
Just like a Drag Racer.
If it's on the way cut & grind to make room.
You have to do the exact same on a 2nd gen Bird & Camaro to fit a T56 & Trmec 6 in.
Much larger trans and to get the driveshaft angles right to cancel out.

I agree a new trans tunnel cover made be easier.
I would bead roll if possible to add strength.
Just a few beads to stiffen up.

 

[2Loose]

Sheet metal costs over here have skyrocketed out of sight....
If you can even find it, remember we live on an island 3,000 miles from LA...
And at about the same latitude as Mexico City....
Sometimes it feels like living in Mexico City (and yes, I have been there....)
It's sort of like we get the "left overs" after everybody in the lower 48 gets their pick first....
my friends up in Alaska feel pretty much the same way....

I made that opening wide enough to attach 1" wide strips, 1/2" exposed to lay the cut out
pieces in, and nutserts/screws or just top quality sheet metal screws, haven't decided yet...
Gotta check my "reserves" and my buddies's for 16 ga or heavier, see what kind of horse
trading might be needed....

My best ides is to roll a new cover that runs wide down to the flat floor on each side then
attach it down there, with seam sealer up along the edges of the existing cut to keep moisture
out...
Maybe....

Got kids and grandkids in house visiting from Seattle, born and raised here but they like
living over there better, better jobs, cheaper houses....
Willy

 

[Grumpy]

well what ever route you decide too take ,
please post pictures, its always nice to see how things progress.

 

[T-Test]

You can use an old hood or trunk to cut a piece from and bend it any way you want. Everything doesn't have to be bought to fix your cars when you can barter for most of it.

Outcast you are not, but maybe a scrounger, eh?

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

You can use an old hood or trunk to cut a piece from and bend it any way you want. Everything doesn't have to be bought to fix your cars when you can barter for most of it.

Outcast you are not, but maybe a scrounger, eh?

That is a great idea.
Use an old 70s car decklid or hood for sheetmetal.

 

[2Loose]

Over the years, my wife and 4 kids have "helped clean up Dad's yard....", not a lot left like there used to be...
Wait a minute, I think that '67 Delta 88 4 dr hood might still be around....
(That motor, an Olds 425, stock forged crank and connecting rods, is in my '55 Chevy 4x4 stepside)
I'll hafta to look for it....

 

[2Loose]

Still working on that clutch problem....

NAPA doesn't even list the clutch release bearing
for this application ('93 Z28 LT1 T56)
I had to go online and found this one on ebay....
I consider that a fairly huge failure for NAPA that they
don't list this part for that Camaro....

The clutch plate I selected has the organic material on the pressure plate side....
And the metallic pads on the flywheel side....

I had to look closely to see that there were three
openings between those fingers there that the three clips
on the release bearing fit into from the motor side of the clutch....

It just 'clicked' into place with a little 'persuasion'....

And a retaining ring clicked into place on the tranny side....

The clutch release arm has a sliding capability so the
tranny can be bolted up, then the arm is repositioned
to engage the release bearing collar...

like this....

The clutch bolted up to the flywheel no problem,

And, yes, I did align the clutch disk with an old tranny input shaft....

Now to fab attachment points for a new cover....

More Later....

 

[T-Test]

Scrap metal was selling at a premium a few years ago most was sold then and little remains.