I was asked "whats your current engine, combo,"
BTW this info and software a good tool, but understand theres not a single original chevy part in my engine and Im constantly changing components (part of the HOBBY/RESEARCH)and that just because this combo fits my needs doesn,t mean its going to be ideal in your car!
THE combo I choose was NOT designed to maximize N/A hp, but too maximize BOTH the driveability when I was off the giggle gas and to get a reasonable boost once the nitrous was used, with durrability and trouble free opperation as a main concern.
http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm
Ive got that software ,at first, its a P.I.T.A. to fill in all the necessary requested data "CORRECTLY" and fill the necessary data banks the basic program needs , but the more you use it the easier it becomes to use as it holds previous data in memory,but its an excellent program that gives good advice and reasonably dependable answers, unlike some of the cheaper
software.
that and YEARS OF experiance and testing assist in finding a decent combo
keep in mind the rpm band your car REALLY spends MOST of its time in, most guys seem mezmerized and glued to the peak power results, it does little or no good to make huge peak power numbers at an rpm that youll spend only fractions of seconds at durring occasional race use vs the rpm band where your car spends 99% of its time, I could easily have built a killer race combo with huge peah hp numbers but I wanted something that was reasonably easy to drive on the street and still be fast on the track on the rare occasions I get there. I drive My corvette and its NOT a trailer queen!
my comb changes almost every month as I play with it, but heres My current 383 combo, (which Im currently refreshing for a spare)I built the engine SPECIFICALLY to run nitrious , but still be marginally easy to drive on the street, Its certainly NOT a race car but its fast enought to be marginally scary at times
splayed 4 bolt block,4.030 bore ARP studs
.020 copper head gaskets
6" cat 7/16" rod bolt (H) connecting rods
FORGED PISTONS 2016 alloy
SCAT 3.75" stroke FORGED internally ballanced ,4340 crank
CRANE 119661 roller cam & kit (better springs added)
air pump eliminator
jackson gear cam drive
smaller crank pullie
BBK 58mm throttle body
ERSON 1.6:1 BILLET roller rockers
gapless rings
TRICKFLOW twisted wedge heads (ported extensively)
STEALTH RAM(dirrect strait shot from back of valve to plenum) (ported and modified extensively)plus adjustable fuel pressure regulator
SFI 168 tooth flex plate
10 qt custom oil pan/high volume oil pump
windage screen/crank scraper /oil cooler
3000 rpm stall converter
36 LB injectors (soon to be 42 lb)
hooker 1 3/4" headers, 3" exhaust
HOLLEY http://www.holley.com/890-160.asp
taylor 10.4 mm wires
MDS ignition with manual retard dial
3.73:1 rear gears
aftermaket EFI fuel pump
larger fuel lines
trans cooler with powered fan
1.5"deeper aluminum trans pan
175 hp wet nitrous kit (EXTENSIVELY MODIFYED and re-jetted) similar to this
Im currently collecting parts to upgrade to a BBC in the vette, after running various combos/ components and testing over a dozen cams and almost that many intakes based on this basic 383 design
several 700r4 transmission, a couple rear suspension,
and more replaced U-joints , tires and brakes ETC. than you would believe
(being retired hurts the spare cash budget flow rates)
WHAT WOULD I CHANGE IF I WAS STICKING WITH THE SBC 383?
keep in mind the current BASIC combos 12 years old and theres been a bunch of better parts come on line...It was a great combo at the time but it can be improved on now...
Id swap to the 66cc AFR 210cc heads,with L98 angle plugs and ID BUILD/WELD up a CUSTOM EFI intake , similar to the STEALTHRAM,
BUT,BASED on the
http://www.holley.com/300-44.asp
ID swap to this cam, and a 3500 rpm stall converter and a set of 42 lb injectors
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePa ... vl=2&prt=5
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... ffca829bad
this would probably boost my hp 50-70 hp and raise both ends the useful rpm band about 600rpm, but make it even LESS street friendly to drive, and require a differant set of valve springs :crazy:
but Im currently collecting parts to upgrade to a BBC in the vette, after running various combos/ components and testing over a dozen cams and almost that many intakes based on this basic 383 design
several 700r4 transmission, a couple rear suspension,
and more replaced U-joints , tires and brakes ETC. than you would believe
(being retired hurts the spare cash budget flow rates)
If your afraid to experiment, or too modify parts or try new things..... YOUR PROBABLY in the wrong HOBBY, you need too research your choices and ideas carefully, see if someone else tried it first and see what results they got,but do the research, theres lots of guys who could not melt ice without instuctions and they could still screw it up with a video guide, do the research, or youll find yourself in a never ending and bottomless money pit with little hope of building a killer combo at a near reasonable cost.
you DON,T NEED the absolute fastest car, what you need is a very dependable car thats far faster than most.
its no huge trick to exceed 450hp/450 ft lbs with a properly thought thru and assembled 383, and 500hp PLUS and 500ft lbs PLUS is certainly achievable WITHOUT & before you use nitrous
BTW this info and software a good tool, but understand theres not a single original chevy part in my engine and Im constantly changing components (part of the HOBBY/RESEARCH)and that just because this combo fits my needs doesn,t mean its going to be ideal in your car!
THE combo I choose was NOT designed to maximize N/A hp, but too maximize BOTH the driveability when I was off the giggle gas and to get a reasonable boost once the nitrous was used, with durrability and trouble free opperation as a main concern.
http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm
Ive got that software ,at first, its a P.I.T.A. to fill in all the necessary requested data "CORRECTLY" and fill the necessary data banks the basic program needs , but the more you use it the easier it becomes to use as it holds previous data in memory,but its an excellent program that gives good advice and reasonably dependable answers, unlike some of the cheaper
software.
that and YEARS OF experiance and testing assist in finding a decent combo
keep in mind the rpm band your car REALLY spends MOST of its time in, most guys seem mezmerized and glued to the peak power results, it does little or no good to make huge peak power numbers at an rpm that youll spend only fractions of seconds at durring occasional race use vs the rpm band where your car spends 99% of its time, I could easily have built a killer race combo with huge peah hp numbers but I wanted something that was reasonably easy to drive on the street and still be fast on the track on the rare occasions I get there. I drive My corvette and its NOT a trailer queen!
my comb changes almost every month as I play with it, but heres My current 383 combo, (which Im currently refreshing for a spare)I built the engine SPECIFICALLY to run nitrious , but still be marginally easy to drive on the street, Its certainly NOT a race car but its fast enought to be marginally scary at times
splayed 4 bolt block,4.030 bore ARP studs
.020 copper head gaskets
6" cat 7/16" rod bolt (H) connecting rods
FORGED PISTONS 2016 alloy
SCAT 3.75" stroke FORGED internally ballanced ,4340 crank
CRANE 119661 roller cam & kit (better springs added)
air pump eliminator
jackson gear cam drive
smaller crank pullie
BBK 58mm throttle body
ERSON 1.6:1 BILLET roller rockers
gapless rings
TRICKFLOW twisted wedge heads (ported extensively)
STEALTH RAM(dirrect strait shot from back of valve to plenum) (ported and modified extensively)plus adjustable fuel pressure regulator
SFI 168 tooth flex plate
10 qt custom oil pan/high volume oil pump
windage screen/crank scraper /oil cooler
3000 rpm stall converter
36 LB injectors (soon to be 42 lb)
hooker 1 3/4" headers, 3" exhaust
HOLLEY http://www.holley.com/890-160.asp
taylor 10.4 mm wires
MDS ignition with manual retard dial
3.73:1 rear gears
aftermaket EFI fuel pump
larger fuel lines
trans cooler with powered fan
1.5"deeper aluminum trans pan
175 hp wet nitrous kit (EXTENSIVELY MODIFYED and re-jetted) similar to this
Im currently collecting parts to upgrade to a BBC in the vette, after running various combos/ components and testing over a dozen cams and almost that many intakes based on this basic 383 design
several 700r4 transmission, a couple rear suspension,
and more replaced U-joints , tires and brakes ETC. than you would believe
(being retired hurts the spare cash budget flow rates)
WHAT WOULD I CHANGE IF I WAS STICKING WITH THE SBC 383?
keep in mind the current BASIC combos 12 years old and theres been a bunch of better parts come on line...It was a great combo at the time but it can be improved on now...
Id swap to the 66cc AFR 210cc heads,with L98 angle plugs and ID BUILD/WELD up a CUSTOM EFI intake , similar to the STEALTHRAM,
BUT,BASED on the
http://www.holley.com/300-44.asp
ID swap to this cam, and a 3500 rpm stall converter and a set of 42 lb injectors
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePa ... vl=2&prt=5
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... ffca829bad
this would probably boost my hp 50-70 hp and raise both ends the useful rpm band about 600rpm, but make it even LESS street friendly to drive, and require a differant set of valve springs :crazy:
but Im currently collecting parts to upgrade to a BBC in the vette, after running various combos/ components and testing over a dozen cams and almost that many intakes based on this basic 383 design
several 700r4 transmission, a couple rear suspension,
and more replaced U-joints , tires and brakes ETC. than you would believe
(being retired hurts the spare cash budget flow rates)
If your afraid to experiment, or too modify parts or try new things..... YOUR PROBABLY in the wrong HOBBY, you need too research your choices and ideas carefully, see if someone else tried it first and see what results they got,but do the research, theres lots of guys who could not melt ice without instuctions and they could still screw it up with a video guide, do the research, or youll find yourself in a never ending and bottomless money pit with little hope of building a killer combo at a near reasonable cost.
you DON,T NEED the absolute fastest car, what you need is a very dependable car thats far faster than most.
its no huge trick to exceed 450hp/450 ft lbs with a properly thought thru and assembled 383, and 500hp PLUS and 500ft lbs PLUS is certainly achievable WITHOUT & before you use nitrous