New hydraulic roller cam in 496 BBC
I generally look over the posts on a couple automotive web-sites just to see if there's interesting threads,pictures and questions, and every once in a while I find I read through a question, find its interesting and I think,
"well what would I do?" "WHAT NEEDS TO BE TESTED, OR CHANGED?"
.
.
.
I generally think it through, write down a few notes and only then...
I read through the posted suggestions,in that thread, and its absolutely amazing how many times I have yelled at a computer screen,
"are you FUC#$%^&* out of your ever loving mind!"
yeah! bad or totally ignorant advice is common, on the internet, and yes I do occasionally find very good and well though out answers and think,
HELL YES! THAT WILL MORE THAN LIKELY WORK OUT WELL!
almost every mechanics tool box needs a few basic measuring tools and supplies
https://www.amazon.com/Claytoon-Set...d=1466872286&sr=8-17&keywords=plastilina+clay
http://www.utrechtart.com/Plastalin...currency=USD&gclid=CN3G75zOw80CFQgaaQodKbgFjA
EXAMPLE
A GOOD WELL THOUGH OUT very BRIEF ANSWER
after reading through the question, I said to myself, thats an all too common, mix of badly matched and probably badly tuned components it seems obvious to me at least that for a street driven car, that not much thought or testing went into the original engine component selection or matching it to the drive train and gearing, I then read the post above , and thought,
HELL YES THATS A GOOD STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
theres no question that youll pull a bit higher peak power numbers with a cam like this one below
http://www.claysmithcams.com/bbc-47...th-afr-290-or-305-heads-to-a-max-of-6000-rpm/
but the reduced plenum vacuum for power brakes crappy gas mileage in daily driving, lack of off idle torque and harder starting all make that less than ideal over MOST of the daily driver ,usable power band
yeah something like this makes far more logical sense with that rear gearing ETC.
http://www.claysmithcams.com/bbc-454-to-470-cid-old-school-oem-049-781-heads-to-a-max-of-5700-rpm/
I generally look over the posts on a couple automotive web-sites just to see if there's interesting threads,pictures and questions, and every once in a while I find I read through a question, find its interesting and I think,
"well what would I do?" "WHAT NEEDS TO BE TESTED, OR CHANGED?"
.
.
.
I generally think it through, write down a few notes and only then...
I read through the posted suggestions,in that thread, and its absolutely amazing how many times I have yelled at a computer screen,
"are you FUC#$%^&* out of your ever loving mind!"
yeah! bad or totally ignorant advice is common, on the internet, and yes I do occasionally find very good and well though out answers and think,
HELL YES! THAT WILL MORE THAN LIKELY WORK OUT WELL!
almost every mechanics tool box needs a few basic measuring tools and supplies
http://www.utrechtart.com/Plastalin...currency=USD&gclid=CN3G75zOw80CFQgaaQodKbgFjA
EXAMPLE
I am going to change the cam for this year because of drivability. I have a Big Mutha Thumpr hyd roller cam in there now, and it runs and sounds awesome. Except for it won't run on anything less than 32 degrees of initial timing which is hell on starters and flexplates. AND it won't run power brakes. Even with a vacuum canister. (i have a 6 inch polished booster) You get about 1 pump. This has to be low buck as possible. It gets horrible gas mileage at 7-8 just driving very lightly, with no fun and that is with an overdrive... I am thinking of changing it out to the largest Lunati Voodoo cam they have, which isn't very big... 241/249@ .050" but it has a whole lot more lift that the Thumpr .625 both intake and exh. My heads are stock 781 castings with 2.19/1.88 valves.........I am also thinking of changing the carb and intake. I have a port matched Victor JR and probably going to change to a RPM Air gap intake and for the street, I am thinking of changing to an 800 Edelbrock for now, for driveability and mileage. I typically run a 850 HP Annular Booster Holley, but I also have a stock 750 double pumper I can put on it as well. I don't want to spend more than $1000 this year on everything, as I am converting to LS, but this would at least get me by this year, and I might be able to drive out of town with it more with this setup, than what I have now. I like to drive 300 miles to one show, and hoping will help on some fuel mileage, and guessing it will run better than the Thumpr even. Some vacuum will me stop better as well.
The rest of the combo is a 700R4 trans with 3200 lockup converter, 3.90 gear, and 28 in tall tires. But will be changing to a 3.42 gear in the near future. Was on my list to do this year, but funds are limited.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!.
A GOOD WELL THOUGH OUT very BRIEF ANSWER
If you want a nice streetable cam I would go with this one. I seen this cam in a 496 and it was very streetable and a animal.
BBC 454 to 470 CID ?Old School? OEM 049/781 heads to a max of 5700 RPM - Clay Smith Cams
http://www.claysmithcams.com/bbc-454-to-470-cid-old-school-oem-049-781-heads-to-a-max-of-5700-rpm/
after reading through the question, I said to myself, thats an all too common, mix of badly matched and probably badly tuned components it seems obvious to me at least that for a street driven car, that not much thought or testing went into the original engine component selection or matching it to the drive train and gearing, I then read the post above , and thought,
HELL YES THATS A GOOD STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
theres no question that youll pull a bit higher peak power numbers with a cam like this one below
http://www.claysmithcams.com/bbc-47...th-afr-290-or-305-heads-to-a-max-of-6000-rpm/
but the reduced plenum vacuum for power brakes crappy gas mileage in daily driving, lack of off idle torque and harder starting all make that less than ideal over MOST of the daily driver ,usable power band
yeah something like this makes far more logical sense with that rear gearing ETC.
http://www.claysmithcams.com/bbc-454-to-470-cid-old-school-oem-049-781-heads-to-a-max-of-5700-rpm/
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