new guy deer hunting tips?

Grumpy · Nov 14, 2018

Grumpy Ive had various rifles all my life but I've never been deer hunting, I am a grown adult that grew up in a household that didn't value outdoor activities, so hunting was never something we did. and would love to give it a try,I have recently moved to Mid-Missouri for my job, but I don't know anyone here and no one I work with is a hunter. I have always wanted to go hunting, and the deer here are fairly plentiful as I understand it. I know for many it is a right of passage to go out hunting with their father or as a group, but I never had that opportunity and was never exposed to that life. So here I am, an adult on the outside looking in, and I have no idea where to go from here. So any advice is appreciated. btw any tips?

First , Id point out, your hardly alone, in having a family that was not into camping,hunting, fishing and frequent firearms use.
ok first step get a copy of the state fire arm and hunting regulations and read them over carefully.
next youll want to get a map of your states wild life management or allowed hunting areas.
Id certainly suggest you start small, and that might mean start by hunting rabbits, pheasant. morning dove, squirrels.
Id strongly suggest you attend and pass your states hunter safety course before you go hunting as its probably mandatory to do that.
(you may find a friend or two there or at local skeet and trap ranges too hunt with)
Id suggest you try shooting skeet a few times as the concept of a moving target and having to lead the target is far easier to learn there than from books.
rent , borrow or buy a dozen related firearm care, and proper use,and training videos,
buy and watch a game processing videos
join the NRA and read the magazines
watch as many related videos as you can.
rent borrow or buy a couple dozen hunting tips videos, ideally find an experienced mentor.
youll need a freezer at some point.
your local library should have a modest selection of hunting related books available.
a great deal of the stuff you see is designed to promote product sales , you only need the basics, comfortable, warm clothes
(ideally camo but thats not mandatory) good hiking boots, weather resistant gear.
all the gear in the world is not all that helpful if you don,t understand the game, terrain and the required skills.
a decent day pack, and a knowledge of what your doing, and the game hunted
some of the tips in these threads may help (and Im sure others will post useful info)

take your rifle out and sight it in to consistently hit, in a tight group, a couple inches high at 100 yards
select the projectiles on the mid-to heavy for caliber range.
good light weight, quality, binoculars, a GPS and knowledge of how to read topo maps is very helpful but not mandatory

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/printable-targets-and-sighting-in.4560/

https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/whitetail-deer-hunting/418200-florida-whitetail-experience.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/elk-hunting-tips.1095/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-thoughts-related-to-hunting-trips-etc.9487/

https://www.academy.com/explore/8-d...MI2PTY4ovU3gIVgozICh22UQR-EAAYASAAEgKpHvD_BwE

https://www.mantripping.com/stuff/how-to-get-started-as-a-new-hunter.html

https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/a-primer-on-deer-hunting/

better options for starting a fire

the consistent and dependable ability to easily make a fire, when required, is a potentially life saving and death preventing/ mandatory skill, set. having and carrying several options & tools available to do so is a very good idea. your ability to think rationally and perform simple tasks...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

https://hunteredcourse.com/new-deer-hunter-tips-for-a-successful-hunt/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/are-you-thinking-thru-your-rifle-choice.7661/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...for-a-decent-hunting-rifle-for-deer-elk.1133/

https://www.amazon.com/Sure-Fire-Whitetail-Tactics-John-Weiss/dp/1510708154

https://www.amazon.com/Total-Hunter...&sr=8-1&keywords=the+total+deer+hunter+manual

https://books.google.com/books/about/Deer_Hunting_for_Beginners.html?id=LASQrgEACAAJ&source=kp_cover

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Book-Deer-Hunting/dp/B000HF6HZA

rlphvac · Nov 14, 2018

After you have done what Grumpy said walk the woods where you want to hunt and find about a half dozen spots you would like to sit take a hunting seat or find some big rocks, fallen trees or whatever but you want to find a spot to sit for at least the first several hours of the day. Be sure of what you are shooting at and have fun most of all. GOOD LUCK

Grumpy · Nov 16, 2018

"find someone to show you!"

be well aware of the fact that the majority of people who claim to be knowledgeable and experienced "HUNTERS"
may have decades of experience wondering aimlessly around in the woods, and occasionally shooting game,
but theres a select, maybe 15%-to- 20% who actually have the skill and experience to consistently find game and actually keep a freezer fairly well stocked, with meat.
the majority enjoy comradeship, getting out and camping the scenery , and wondering around, and having a week or so in the woods,
(not a damn thing wrong with that) many plan all year for "the 5-14 days they spend hunting"
but its that smaller more skilled and experienced group , from which youll learn much faster and more info from, and from which group youll ideally want to find as a mentor
Id say about 60% of the guys I hunt with look on " hunting" as a chance or reason to get out, wear camo,
cook over a camp fire and B.S. in the evenings with a cooler full of cold beer while they cook over a camp fire.
most of that group may be fun, helpful guys but most won,t get more than a 1/2 mile from where they park a camper or truck, and consider the 15%-20%,
that walk into steep canyon country or guys that get up pre-dawn, walk a climbing tree stand into the woods and spend day after day placing in up in game rich areas,
and spending enough time so they are seldom back at camp before dark, as ...well, odd and obsessed,
and when those guys consistently fill tags and they only rarely do so, its all due to.. LUCK!
Now I'm not suggesting that hunting needs to be hard work, but knowing what your doing,
taking the effort to know how to read game sign, topo maps and recognize what the game feed on,
where the water sources and escape routes are, where road access makes it less likely youll see game,
and how you can use the movement of the vast majority of "hunters" to limit the areas youll need to concentrate looking through,
helps your chances of success a great deal.
And if you only practice shooting tight groups of a bench rest , with your rifle and can,t punch holes in a coke can from a sitting position at 100 yards
or place all your arrows in a 3" x 5" post card at 25 yards , your at a big disadvantage.
you gain skills by reading, and watching, and questioning the more successful hunters, getting out in the field and observing game, and practicing with your equipment
a couple days sitting in a good climbing tree stand in a good area, may seem boring to some guys but it can be very helpful if your observant, hunting is not just about filling the freezer,
its more about learning to be observant of everything going on around you and knowing where the games likely to be and why its there.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/getting-started-hunting.11090/#post-77601

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nking-thru-your-rifle-choice.7661/#post-73393

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...how-to-hunt-with-a-revolver.14205/#post-72130

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-around-elk-mule-deer-rifle.12948/#post-67365

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-low-buck-hunt-to-work.10821/#post-47355

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rs-for-elk-are-not-mandatory.1275/#post-38559

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uccessfully-still-hunted-elk.6325/#post-37969

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hooting-from-field-positions.9380/#post-34062

Grumpy · Nov 17, 2018

I received several private messages, related to the above post, one was mostly inquiring about basic equipment ,
it should be rather obvious that the area you hunt, the game you hunt,
the most likely temp range and weather conditions and the terrain and distance you need to cover, and how willing you may be to spend a good deal of your time,
far away from your base camp or truck ,will have a major effect on how you'll want to equip yourself.
youll increase the odds of success by finding at least a couple different mentors,and asking questions and watching what works, and trying to gain skill from several sources.
each will have different skills.
lets look at the basics , and I'll assume that like most guys you'll intend to either day hunt
(sleep at home or at a local motel, or camp near where you park your truck)
Now Ive done this, and Ive also spent many days living out of a back-pack only returning to the camp site or truck every second or third day for resupply until I had game down.
you'll obviously need decent warm, weather proof clothing and boots with decent traction, and a day pack, or back pack,and a few basic tools of the trade.
don,t worry about your rifle or caliber, yes some choices,do provide advantages,
but just about all choices in the hands of a decent shot will work,
you would rarely find anything from a 270 win, to a 300 mag to not be a great choice,
and Id have zero issues with a 257 roberts to a 458 mag, with proper handloads.
my later hunting partner used a 358 win BLR, loaded with a 250 grain speer bullet over 44 grains of IMR 4064 for three decades with zero problems.
I used a 340 wby for 50 years and feel its ideal..in my hands, one guy I hunt with has used a single shot 270 win for 5 decades successfully.
if your not seeing game at least occasionally,where your hunting, you need to change areas and / or how your hunting!
after you gain experience you can look at topo maps and areal photos of your hunt area and rather easily locate potential game travel restrictions, potential, feed, cover, bedding areas
ranges seldom exceed 250 yards,
the issue is not killing game its locating game!
every year thousand of deer and elk get shot by guys that just get lucky,
guys that see a deer or elk running or walking away from some unseen threat,
that they would most likely have never seen, other wise.
they are not generally the guys who consistently fill their tags.
if you want to be consistently successful you need to understand terrain, cover,
what the game needs in food sources and how its likely to avoid threats,
where its likely to take cover, or move if it feels threatened.
wondering aimlessly in any area that has a decent deer population does occasionally result in guys getting a chance at a deer
,Yet, you can significantly increase the odds if you have aerial photos and topo maps of the area you hunt,
and spend the time and effort to walk the area taking notes.

Im rather amazed at times at the almost resistance I see, among many newer and at times even a few older hunters, to stopping and looking at evidence thats readily available that could very easily increase the number of elk and deer they tag each season.
yeah, most guys want to debate endlessly about rifle caliber or scope power ranges or even camo patterns, and while these factors have a place they are minor concerns in your success if you make even semi reasonable choices, grab about any 270 win-375 H&h and any higher quality 4x, or 3x/9x scope, wear about any gray/green/tan camo pattern, and be in physical shape to cover several miles every day, and if you know how to find game and shoot accurately you've got most of the problem under control.
yeah! thats the factor many guys would rather not be brought up, find game and shooting accurately!
you need to understand how to read topo maps and use your experience to see natural travel choke points, the best feed and cover areas, and understand that easy access by the majority of the hunters that will seldom travel more than at most a mile from where they park a truck/car, has a big influence on game movement and where they spend the day, in cover after the first day when theres a carnival like rush of far less experienced orange dots moving aimlessly around the camping and logging road access areas.
deer and elk will rapidly adapt to what they know is a threat, they use both sight and odor to locate the threat, if you carry a small container of unscented talc, you can constantly check wind direction. you can partially overcome their ability to see and locate you by the use of camo, finding a location where your outline is mostly behind screening branches and in shadows, scent control can be helped by use of several scent killing products, and washing clothes in laundry products that contain no color brighteners or fragrances.(adding a couple table spoons of baking soda to the wash is not a bad option as it can absorb some odor causing chemicals.

laundry soaps
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Laundry-Detergent-ElimiShield-Brighteners/dp/B07CCN419N/ref=sr_1_7_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542557582&sr=1-7&keywords=scent+control+laundry+detergent&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin:17864520011

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWMJDF...970d-869b7af44d1d&ie=UTF8&qid=1542557582&sr=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KQR9JM...&pd_rd_r=27559843-eb4d-11e8-9ae7-f7bd06e3c933

odor kill spray
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KQR7YW...&pd_rd_r=27559843-eb4d-11e8-9ae7-f7bd06e3c933

https://www.amazon.com/Scent-Killer...14?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=JF9FZJ1YNHE2CXCJ5BJB

deodorant
https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/sure-antiperspirant-&-deodorant-aerosol-unscented/ID=prod6187-product

if your in any area that is conductive too use of a tree stand, getting high helps a great deal with scent control

https://www.qdma.com/beat-bucks-nose-remember-thermals/

https://www.wideopenspaces.com/understanding-thermals-affect-elk-hunt/

https://thlete.com/understanding-thermals/

https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2014/8/27/beat-thermals-and-tag-more-deer/

https://www.whitetailhabitatsolutions.com/blog/morning-thermal-deer-hunting-advantage

https://www.outdoorlife.com/reading-wind-heres-how-to-predict-where-your-scent-will-blow

while I've never personally had a deer or elk run more than a couple dozen yards ,
after I shot, it does happen, so take your time and think things through carefully,
I generally carry a large roll of orange surveyors streamer tape ,
if you place a bit every place you see blood you get a good idea if the direction of travel and easily can back track.
I've helped a good many people track and recover deer in the past
(no I'm certainly not the worlds best shot, I just pass on all the shots I'm not damn sure I can make)
badly hit deer do tend to cover a good deal of distance, the fact you tracked it that far shows promise!
If you've learned or should learn to take your time and place your shots very carefully,
this alone will greatly reduce the potential for game traveling any significant distance from the bullet impact point.
it would also be too your advantage to carry a compass and ideally a GPS so you don,t get lost in a DAY PACK, with a few minimal tools of the trade

I generally carry a large roll or two of orange surveyors streamer tape if you place a bit of orange tape every place you see blood ,(near eye level if possible)

,https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-fl...MIlvW1z7Dw3gIVE7nACh1bsAm3EAQYASABEgJHavD_BwE

if you place a bit every place you see blood you get a good idea if the direction of travel and easily can back track.
carrying a canteen, a poncho, matches, compass, knife , and any meds you may need, and some snack food, and in my opinion a cell phone and spare battery, is mandatory
carrying a canteen, a poncho, matches, compass, knife , and any meds you may need, and some snack food, and in my opinion a cell phone and spare battery, is mandatory
heres a quick memory jog list, for hunt day pack
because this is a thread partly about equipment you can use,
Id include a few related tips gained over the last 45 plus years of elk hunts.

this woodsman (above) and the sharp finger (below),are both a darn good value in a skinning and dressing game knife,
both work, you may prefer one vs the other,
but both get the job done and at the very low price,
you could buy both and give the one you don,t prefer to a son or friend
youll find either available under $29 if you shop carefully

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/83...nife-sharpener
youll need a handy blade sharpener no mater what blades you select.

btw
it helps to think things through logically , if you have a topo map and you see obvious camp sites listed ,
you know for sure hunting pressure will be applied expanding like rings in a pond that you threw a rock into come early pre-dawn,
many hunters will get up and trudge out of camp in the pre-dawn, knowing this provides a thinking person with a topo map a known, factor,
in game movement on the few opening days of the season in many areas.
most people will not climb up or down cliff faces or cross steams deeper than about 24" deep thus,
if your willing to study a topo map you may find areas that game will find almost secure from hunting pressure,
due to your average hunters reluctance to be uncomfortable, wet, or forced to work hard to access the area,
and you can certainly with some planing hike well into and far past the areas,
that get routinely flooded with the ebbing tide of the clueless orange masses.
be 1/2-to-1 mile or more up some canyon with limited access and on a higher terrain feature like a timbered bench, or ridge,
over looking a stream, or rolling aspen and willow, or in an area where the canyon walls or a sudden drop off a cliff limits travel,
and you concentrate and limit, game options exiting the area.
don,t make the mistake of loading yourself down with equipment think things through ,
use your head and limit what you take to necessities,
its really easy to over load yourself with equipment, but on the reverse, take what you'll NEED!
heres a quick memory jog list, for MY hunting day pack
(you sure may not need everything, and I don,t carry everything all the time)
(but this list may jog your memories or cause you too think.)
(remember you might be forced to stay out over night, & weather is unpredictable)
skinning knife
kukri
compact blade sharpener
compass
area topo maps
canteen
licences
cell phone (car charger and/or back-up batteries)
several lighters
several mil surplus trioxane heat tabs
granola bars
rain poncho
2 gallon zip lock bags
small block & tackle hoist & rope(50 ft parachute cord)
spare ammo
heavy hoodie jacket
large plastic tarp
aspirin
other meds
lip chapstick
water purification tablets, or filter/pump
down vest
gps
pack of wetnaps
toilet paper
emergency food
on your belt
large knife or light tomahawk, or kukuri
the cold steel (TRAIL MASTER, or ( KUKRI) are good choices
canteen

anything that could get screwed up if you fall in a creek like medicine, licences, cell phones etc. gets double zip loc bagged
related links
https://www.webmd.com/a-to-z-guides/altitude-sickness#1

https://www.uchealth.org/today/2017/...tude-sickness/

https://medlineplus.gov/ency/article/000133.htm

https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/altitude-sickness/

yes it takes some extra effort, some planing , and extra effort,
but a full cooler of elk meat and aching muscles beats tag soup!

obviously if you have suggestions, tips or knowledge to offer the less experienced members please post any helpful info

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...25/#post-84275

read a few links here
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/back-packs.2809/#post-72534

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-when-selecting-your-rifle.12782/#post-65974

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-looking-for-in-an-elk-rifle.2368/#post-56195

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ness-and-camping-blade-combos.2683/#post-6959

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/elk-hunting-tips.1095/#post-2138

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uccessfully-still-hunted-elk.6325/#post-19943

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/4-season-tents.4235/#post-11275

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ange-calibers-for-elk-are-not-mandatory.1275/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...for-a-decent-hunting-rifle-for-deer-elk.1133/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nd-most-used-big-game-rifle.13113/#post-68657

Grumpy · Dec 23, 2018

I was recently asked if a 270 win bolt action rifle,
was going to have the potential power to take an elk, on an up-coming hunt a guy was planing.
given a good 150 grain bullet like a nosler partition , its a good choice.
you gentlemen who have doubts about your deer rifle of choice must hunt in a far different world,
Ive used everything from a 257 roberts to a 62 caliber front loader, they all worked just fine!
while I prefer a 35 whelen over a 270 if your restricted to the 30/06 cartridge case family
, Ive had zero problems using a 270 on deer Ive used it on,
and its certainly been working well for decades,
for one of my hunting partners, who has used it in a ruger #1 for over 45 years.

given a choice Ill grab a 340 wby or a 375 H&H almost every time
but Id certainly feel well equipped with a 450 marlin, or 30/06 BLR , or a browning 78 single shot in 300 wby,
and simple compensate for the cartridge being used by hunting the areas best matched to its limitations
Ive killed deer and elk with a 44 mag revolver and successfully used archery equipment, on dozens of hunts over 5 decades
surely if I can work in that limitation on range and power you can use a 270-308 win or 30/06 and put game on the ground.
its the skill and experience of the hunter far more than the weapon hes chosen to use
yeah, if you select something like a 35 whelen or a 338 win mag, you have a considerable advantage in power on target,
but not everyone,s comfortable with the recoil produced or willing to practice enough to become proficient in the rifles use.
Id certainly check the local game laws and Id suggest a 25 or larger caliber and at least 100 grain weight premium bullet,
but its not the rifle, or cartridge its the hunters skills,
and experience and knowledge, that maters.

read these threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ange-calibers-for-elk-are-not-mandatory.1275/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/270-win-vs-30-06.14765/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-good-light-weight-elk-rifle.3738/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...for-a-decent-hunting-rifle-for-deer-elk.1133/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-a-good-all-around-elk-mule-deer-rifle.12948/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-favorite-and-most-used-big-game-rifle.13113/

heres a video of a guy using a 44 mag revolver that has far less power than most centerfire rifles,

Grumpy · Jan 2, 2019

I was asked if it was possible for a deer's reaction to a shot to allow the deer to duck and evade the bullet,
after a guy said he had timed a deer's reaction time on a video to a guy shooting archery equipment,
where the deer heard the bow release the arrow and in only .08 seconds had ducked low enough,
for the arrow to pass harmlessly over his back!given the stated reaction time,
of a white tail deer at .08 seconds,

given the stated reaction time, of a white tail deer at .08 seconds,
lets say its reaction time to a shot is from a rifle throwing a projectile at 2700-to- 2500 fps,
average white tail deer are shot at well under 150 yards
(Id bet the true average is well under 80 yards,)
and at any range over 150 yards, I doubt the deer would pick up the muzzle flash,
and certainly could not hear the shot before bullet impact.
simple math, if we were to even assume even a slower, 2300 fps x .08 seconds reaction time,
the projectile has already covered at least 184 feet (61 yards) of the distance to the impact point,
before the deer could, even begin to react or move any significant distance,
boost the velocity to 3000 fps and your closer to 80 yards the projectile has traveled before the deer could begin to react,
so while its might be potentially possible under ideal conditions for the deer,
I doubt its a significant factor in most people missing.
ever year we have a impromptu rifle accuracy contest the target is a 3" diam orange dot,
the contest involves each participant walking briskly back from the 100 yard target backer,too the range, safe shooting line,
immediately dropping to a seated position with his deer rifle and firing at least two but hes allowed as many shots as he can fire in 10 seconds
only the closest two bullet impact point,s to the center of the target count, in your score,
obviously smallest total distance counts, and you would be astounded at the number of people,
that can consistently shoot 1" bench rest groups that can,t consistently punch holes in a 3" orange dot without a bench rest.
Id strongly suggest most misses are the result of lack of hunter competency with the chosen weapon,

years ago I saw a game department survey made where they asked hundreds of hunters at a western BLM check point, to look out at 5 different colored flags placed at random but carefully measured distances and write down what each person estimated the distance too be from the check point, they were handed a pen and a survey card, they were told NONE of the colored flags were at an even 100 yard multiple but that was the only info , each flag was a different, color, placed in a
different direction and at a different distance.
the survey taker pointed out each colored flag and asked them to write down their estimated range!
they tabulated the actual hunters field estimates being made on the spot, vs the carefully measure actual distances.
.
.
the results were about what Id have expected..after decades of listening to guys claim they killed deer & elk at 400 and 500 and 600 yards.......
the vast majority were very VERY bad at estimating distances correctly past about 150 yards, some estimates that were over 70% wrong were not uncommon

yes thats a mule deer, but even mule deer are rather commonly shot at under 150 yards
use some rifle like a 25/06 with a 120 grain bullet, a 270 win with a 130-140 grain, or a 30/06 with a 150 grain, thats pushing bullets near 3000 fps,
and you can be rather sure that deer reaction time,is never a significant factor in you missing a deer.

a few tips
a decent wide brim hat treated with water repel-ant spray, to keep rain and snow out of your eyes or running down the back of your neck and sun out of your eyes sure helps
as does having a comfortable light weight back-pack to transport game meat, and a poncho to keep you drier in heavy rain or snow.

comfortable insulated boots with good ankle support and an aggressive tread are nearly mandatory

this is a darn good value in a skinning and dressing game knife

a jacket and or vest that can be stored in your back pack for sudden temp swings helps a great deal

a decent rifle bi-pod aids accuracy

rlphvac · Jan 2, 2019

I agree with you Grumpy I don't think a deer can react that fast and if a deer were to duck or jump out of a bullets path the deer was already moving or spooked before the shot was taken and the timing was just a coincidence

Grumpy · Apr 3, 2019

I was asked about hunting florida!

I'm glad we can help out the newer hunters
learn to think and hunt SMART, wondering around aimlessly, is all too commonly referred to and the expected definition of ... HUNTING
But thats all too often a waste of your time ,having the experience and skill, to map out any area,
to logically search out what your dealing with and take a few notes,locate the areas the game uses, the food sources and best cover, game trails,
the access roads or canals you can use with a canoe ,increases your odds considerably.
having a topo map, and aerial photos of your hunt area, and use of a tree stand can make a huge difference in how often you score.
many guys get all mentally wrapped up in accumulating equipment , look over the areas hunting regulations for sure!
but its the skill, AND PERSISTENCE of the hunter in most cases not the type of weapon he has decided to select, that maters as long as your reasonably proficient with it.
sure its nice to have choices, but Ive been in damn few areas where a 44 mag carbine or a decent 12 ga with slugs in skilled hands could not,
result in a skilled hunter filling a freezer
get out before dawn, and hunt until dark, use the climbing tree stand that you like best if you can, if its an option, in the area you hunt.
be patient and observant, watch the wind,don,t get discouraged youll spend several days in most areas not seeing deer or hogs before you get a good grasp on the area.
sitting in your truck on an access road , bitching about the lack of game your seeing...is generally a waste of time,
I have run into dozens of guys that arrive at 8am-9am, wonder out maybe 1/4 mile from where they park the car or truck, and by 5-6 pm they are sitting back in camp drinking beer and cooking burgers next to their truck, and if you ask them, there were only a few does seen, so the areas completely shot out!
yeah hunting's not easy, but if you don,t take it seriously (learning the area, and developing your skills and knowledge,)
and rarely put in much effort... its even less productive,
or you can be "ONE OF THE LUCKY GUYS THAT FREQUENTLY fills his tags".......
of course its all LUCK, ..
"to the guys that spend most of the time hunting"
sitting in camp on a large cooler??

find satellite photos get topo and boundary maps, and get the wild life area regulations,
and get a gps so you can locate those areas once your on the ground where things look a great deal different,
if you get out the recent satellite photos your looking for areas that channel deer movement, between cover and feed.
watch the wind, youll rarely see deer directly down wind, keep to the shadows as much as you can, wear good camo.
I can assure you no one can tell you exactly where too find deer or hogs consistently on any given location,
simply because the animals constantly change location due to changes in hunting pressure, food supply, cover, weather etc.
yet you can markedly up your odds of success,by getting to know each area, and personally scouting out the constantly changing factors that influence the game.
on the particular area you choose to hunt, nothing beats on site current observation, and documenting and mapping out the area.
one of the biggest helps will be actually getting out and observing the area and learning specifics about both that area and the game, as a great deal changes,

deer will love a secluded peninsula or any other area that has very limited human traffic as long as it has feed and cover,
here in florida much of the hunting management areas consist of swamp, if you pull a topo map,
many are endless small peninsulas extending into shallow drainage ponds, and islands in the swamp.
deer are not phased with crossing chest deep water, or even swimming a canal to gain access to decent feed and cover
Ive used a cannoe for decades to allow easy transport of equipment and downed game

almost daily, but there are semi dependable and if your observant patterns to the games movement.
a good quality climbing tree stand, patience, a management area map and decent binoculars will allow you get a good perspective on what your potentially dealing with,
a call to the local biologist and game department can be helpful.
obviously if you can find an experienced mentor familiar with your selected area that could be a big advantage.
but be aware that about 75% of the people that "hunt" are basically spending most of their time,
wondering aimless and clueless, hoping to spot game and while they are occasionally going to shoot game,
you can vastly increase your odds going at the process by doing detailed research and breaking down the process of locating the game logically.
http://www.mytopo.com/products/publi...e.cfm?state=FL
ideally youll want to locate a choke point concentrating deer movement like the narrow land area between two lakes, or the tip of a heavily wooded area adjacent too a second heavily wooded area with a small open meadow between the two.(natural game travel choke points)
if you have access to a welder and chop saw you can build a damn nice climbing tree stand for under $60 similar too this

http://myfwc.com/viewing/recreation/...rative/osceola

untill you know the area,increase your odds by finding areas deer constantly travel between cover and feed, be in a tree stand with a wide field of fire ,
up at least 15-25 feet up a tree so you command/control dozens of acres,travel with a scoped rifle, limit movement, ideally place the stand back a few yards from the edge of the timber (yeah I'm well aware you seldom have ideal choice locations for tree stand locations)
if you plop down in a random area on the ground your chances of success diminish a great deal.
your perspective changes giving you dozens of times more area you can see, from a tree stand 20 ft up.
get the largest and strongest cooler you can afford, keep it in your car or truck and throw a bag or two of ice in it every morning to keep a couple plastic gallon milk jugs you freeze solid before each trip from melting , then place a few sodas or gator-aid bottles in it, if you get lucky and drop a deer you place the number of 2 gallon zip loc bags of meat in the cooler to prevent spoilage untill you can get home, and properly process and label the meat packages.
coleman sells a usable fairly cheap,120 quart for $65, if you have the cash, pelican, grizzly and others sell premium coolers but they cost $260-$600
the cheap cooler will work on one or two day hunts if filled with frozen milk jugs
http://www.outdoorsmantime.com/best-...SAAEgLt7_D_BwE
the basics are simple you'll need to learn to be able too,
consistently find game on a regular basis,
and once found you need to be able to quickly place lethal shots precisely.
knowledge of where and when the game travel and skill with your equipment helps immensely.
being able to see down between the brush and optically cover a very large surface area (several acres)from an elevated tree stand helps in both casesLast edited by

Grumpy · Apr 3, 2019

it helps a great deal to have a GPS for what should be very obvious reasons.
get and use a decent back-pack
carry a note book and pen and camera, that stores digital pictures , carry extra batteries, carry water, Toilet paper a cell phone
game does not report to a certain location at a set time, (no bus to catch too work, no restaurant seating hours.
they move due to changes in hunting pressure, changes in food sources,major environmental changes,and mating season and weather.
the more time you spend becoming familiar with the area youll hunt the better your grasp of the wildlife and how it spends its time and where it spends that time,
game will detect you about 80% more often than you detect game, observe by finding a concealed area and sitting, it will take 30-45 minutes for the natural process to resume.
learn the local food sources, be aware of changes, oaks don,t drop acorns all year.
will be to your benefit, wear a watch take notes and what I do is divide the map of the area into roughly 1/8 mile grid squares,
label them A-Z then you can make readable notes like
"8 am, oct 12, zone G- kicked up 3 does, found several game trails converge south of oak stand 30 yards from north end of canal" or
"11Am zone D,oct 28, found perfect tree for climbing stand for winds from north, over mixed myrtle and oak, lots of hog digging sign "
"5pm zone C oct 26 large oak grove obviously torn up by hogs"
organize notes by zone, and month on your home computer data base
learn to be a damn good shot from field positions (shooting skeet also helps)
you can aimlessly and randomly wonder around like most "hunters"and occasionally see game
or you can up your odd markedly by understanding where when and why game move and where they are more likely to be.
youll also up your odds by getting in before dawn and hunting till after dusk.
http://www.northamericanwhitetail.co...t-do-deer-eat/
http://www.wideopenspaces.com/whitet...ld-foods-pics/
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw121

https://www.mossyoak.com/our-obsessi...ing-in-florida

https://www.qdma.com/know-native-deer-foods/
go to the local fish & game office and grab all the local area brochures ,of areas your likely to hunt
http://myfwc.com/hunting/wma-brochures/
once you find an area that appeals to you get a detailed topo map and sat photos
talk to the biologist, if you do your home work, its not that hard.
visit the local rifle ranges and larger mom & pop gun-shops you might find a knowledgeable & helpful mentor
get up off the computer and grab a compass, and a map a back pack with water and a snack, your cell phone, etc.
and actually walk through the area,take pictures and get familiar with the ares,
in many cases your allowed to as long as you follow a few simple rules
after a few dozen trips youll get a clearer mental picture of the area
after several seasons youll know pretty much where to set up a stand to have an excellent chance of success,
as youll have a good grasp on how and when game moves,
if theres been a grass fire or the game department used a dozer to cut a new dirt road through the area,
or the adjacent farm burned sugar cane or it rained enough that your walking through knee deep water most of the time
, it will effect the game travel patterns. the basics are simple you'll need to learn to be able too,
consistently find game on a regular basis,
and once found you need to be able to quickly place lethal shots precisely.
knowledge of where and when the game travel and skill with your equipment helps immensely.
being able to see down between the brush and optically cover a very large surface area (several acres)from an elevated tree stand helps in both cases
tips
be paitient, get a good stand location, relax be observant,
have a quality set of 8x or 10x compact binoculars
never leave your stand over time someone will steal it
never piss near your stand
the higher the tree stand , generally the more area you can observe
wear a safety tree stand fall harness, let the wife know the grid (s) on the map your likely to hunt
charge your cell phone, ideally have a spare battery or battery charger
put a sling on your rifle use a cartridge holder butt sleeve

ideally youll want a pack large enough to carry most of the boned out meat from a deer.
Im always rather amazed when we bring new hunters out of state on hunting trips, out too the rocky mountains
invariably, theres several almost expected flaws with the equipment, being used or prep for the trip,

(1) most of them can shoot excellent groups off a bench rest,
but in most cases they could not hit a coke can from a rapidly acquired field position,
at 100 yards if their lives depended on doing so.
only after a few days does the concept of using a bi-pod and sling seem viable to most, of them

(2) many have no idea how to use a compass or gps or topo map,
if they get more than a 1/2 mile from camp in rough country , they get disorientated,
and have difficulty walking directly back to where we camp.

(3) almost everyone is not in physical condition to handle higher altitudes, walking up a steep grade,
covering a 1/4 mile at 8000-10000 ft altitude
is a far different level of stress than doing the same thing at 200-1500 ft above sea level
(this is especially true of the florida new guys)

(4) bring chap stick and aspirin, and drink lots of liquids
fail to do so and youll soon realize why I suggested that.

(5) break in and test your boots and back-pack very thoroughly before the trip,
and have a back-up plan , a rifle cleaning kit and basic tools to work on your weapon,
if your primary rifle , archery equipment or scope fails
being 2300 miles from home with a rifle with a broken scope, or mounts and no back-up
or iron sights is frustrating, I can,t begin to count the times my back-up rifle saved some guys hunt.

(6) buy a sleeping bag thats rated for colder temps than you expect, freezing your ass off is not a good way to spend your nights,

(7) carry a day pack with a warm vest and rain poncho, and a cell phone with a back-up battery,
and anything else you may need.

heres a quick memory jog list, for MY hunting day pack
(you sure may not need everything,
but it may jog your memories or cause you too think.)
(remember you might be forced to stay out over night, & weather is unpredictable)
skinning knife
kukri
compact blade sharpener
compass
area topo maps
canteen
licences
cell phone (car charger and/or back-up batteries)
several lighters
several mil surplus trioxane heat tabs
granola bars
rain poncho
2 gallon zip lock bags
small block & tackle hoist & rope(50 ft parachute cord)
spare ammo
heavy hoodie jacket
large plastic tarp
aspirin
other meds
lip chapstick
water purification tablets, or filter/pump
down vest
gps
pack of wetnaps
toilet paper
emergency food
spare boot laces
compact bore cleaning rod/brush

anything that could get screwed up if you fall in a creek like medicine, licences, cell phones etc.
gets double zip loc bagged

emergency's do occasionally happen

Grumpy · Apr 3, 2019

you,ll want to have your hands free to carry the stand, and do other things at times,
and you may not want to place the rifle on wet ground,or lean it on a tree where it might fall,
hence the sling and ammo sleeve help.
proper practiced use of ,a sling helps rifle accuracy, a great deal on off hand, or sitting shots,
and you want ammo where its always accessible and your very unlikely to leave it home, by mistake,
or be forced too rummage through pockets or the pack to find it quickly.
its being careful , thinking about what might go wrong,and not making little mistakes that helps prevent larger issues
btw if you take a shot and the deer runs as if its not hit, be aware that even a mortally wounded deer can at times run 40-80 yards before dropping , never assume you missed!
deer are not difficult to kill if the shots well placed but that does not mean they all drop on bullet impact., your 308 win loaded with soft point 150-165 grain bullets will do a very good job provided you place shots well.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...-swivels-nylon

http://marylandbucks.com/where-to-ai...hitetail-deer/

http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=308%20Winchester&Weight=All&ty pe=Rifle&Source=

https://www.speer-ammo.com/bullets/r...65-sptz-bullet
varget and WW748 powders, the speer 165 grain bullet and a 215 fed primer work well.

https://tpwd.texas.gov/education/hun...ifle-positions
The “Hasty Sling”

One way to steady shots when you don’t have rest is by using your rifle sling to create tension between your arm and the rifle. This technique is called the “Hasty Sling” and can be employed in each of the four shooting positions. As with the shooting positions, practice the Hasty Sling so you are confident using this technique.

If you are right handed, hold the rifle out with your right hand and let the sling hang down.

Place your left arm through the opening, above the sling and below the rifle.

Next, raise the left arm up and behind the sling.

Then slip your hand back over the sling and grasp the forestock of the rifle.

Shoulder the rifle as you normally would.

If the sling is at the correct length, the resulting tension created when you shoulder the rifle will steady your hold.

With the rifle held to the shoulder, the rear portion of the sling will cross your chest.

The sling will wrap around the outside of your left arm, near the elbow, pass over the crook of your arm and inside your forearm. The forward end of the sling will be on the back side of your left hand.

Your position should not be cramped or cause you to adjust. It should be comfortable and snug. If it is not, you will need to adjust the length of your sling.

Grumpy · Apr 3, 2019

Like with most things in life the more effort you put into honing increased skill, and increasing knowledge the better your results,tend too be,
experience counts.
statistically about 25% of the hunters are consistently successful, they tend to be a bit more serious about learning the skills required than the 75% who rather aimlessly wonder and occasionally run into a deer.
it will take some effort on your part, but if your willing to do the research, and spend dawn till dusk in the field, on several weekends,
in most areas, honing your skills even a first year hunter,
will have little trouble killing a couple deer with a 308 win in florida, that is certainly something you can accomplish.
btw it helps to concentrate your initial searches for game and game trails in the "EDGES"
places where theres an obvious change in the terrain,
like stream banks, places where grass meadows meet myrtle, oak or cypress groves,
deer don,t want too need too push thick palmetto brush, or saw grass or walk chest deep in water any more than you do,
but will do so to get away from hunting pressure in a heart beat.
,look for semi-open areas that provide cover and feed,look for areas that don,t have easy road access.
if you have to cross a stream or drainage ditch, or walk 1/2 mile to get access,
to get there its a good bet many hunters will not hunt the area.
or where open grass fields butt up to palmetto scrub.
a great deal of Florida wild life management area terrain is subjected too,
occasional and irregular cycles of drought and flooding and occasional wild fires.

if your serious about being far more successful than average take the time and effort,
to call and talk to the local fla fish & wildlife biologist and game wardens, be polite
have a list of reasonable and specific questions
AFTER YOU CAREFULLY READ THE ARE REGS, GET THE AREA BROCHURES, AND BUY A TOPO MAP
like
what are the deer populations in area (XYZ)
what are the deer primarily feeding on in area (xyz)
when is the rut, in XYZ

http://myfwc.com/viewing/recreation/celebrate75/

http://myfwc.com/hunting/by-species/deer/

http://myfwc.com/hunting/by-species/deer/dmu/

http://myfwc.com/hunting/by-species/deer/get-started/

http://myfwc.com/hunting/harvest-reports/region/

http://www.mytopo.com/products/publi...e.cfm?state=FL

[it will take some effort on your part, but if your willing to do the research, and spend dawn till dusk in the field, on several weekends,
in most areas, honing your skills even a first year hunter, can vastly up his odds of success., given a couple years experience, you can pick off deer regularly and hogs are a no -brainer.

[URL='http://www.mytopo.com/products/public-land-state.cfm?state=FL']

[/url]

Grumpy · Apr 3, 2019

I can,t be the only one on this web site to spend 40 -50 years hunting in Florida,
wheres the other knowledgeable old experienced geezers ,
who are willing to, help the younger generation out, by adding too hunting tips?

http://www.mytopo.com/products/publi...e.cfm?state=FL

https://www.fieldandstream.com/answe...eer-in-florida

http://www.floridasportsman.com/2018/04/12/five-essential-florida-hunting-firearms/

for the last 7-8 years Ive been mostly using a 44 mag loaded with a lee 310 grain hard cast gas check bullet over 20 grains of H110 powder
a shoulder holster makes it easy to walk in with other gear, and with practice shots from a tree stand with a revolver,sitting resting your arms on your knees, at typical 40-60 yards are not very difficult

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/5...cf-430-diameter-310-grain-flat-nose-gas-check

http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=44%20Magnum&Weight=310&type=Ha ndgun&Order=Powder&Source=
MOLD DC C 430-310-RF

the 44 mag silhouette with adjustable front site and 10 5/8" barrel

how far away do you think youll see a hog thats at most 28"-32" at the shoulder

https://survivallife.com/florida-hun...s-regulations/

btw
my BLR in 358 win is very well represented

as is my 257 roberts ruger

my 44"barrel hawken style 58 caliber rifle with a round patch ball and 100 grains of 1f powder devastates deer

your rifle of choice is far less critical to success than your skill using it,
damn near any centerfire rifle you can accurately use will work,
most of my friend,s use marlin 44 mag, 45lc, or 30/30 or 45/70 lever actions,
and your ability to locate game, consistently,not the rifle caliber is the critical factor/skill.
and shots tend to be under 100 yards in most areas
some guys prefer bolt actions,some guys like semi autos,
thats fine you'll rarely need a fast second shot or longer range power, from what I've seen

Grumpy · Apr 3, 2019

I have hunted northern California in the warner wilderness,
WYOMING in several areas
idaho once
all over mid Colorado and the white river areas , meeker,eagle,gypsum,rifle, gunnison , and near woodland park, aspen etc.
dozens of years
some areas in northern MAINE up near paterson
and in florida several dozen, management areas
ocala, corbett,browns farm, bear island.....
(too many to remember them all)

keep in mind the basics remain constant, get the proper licences,
you first need too research the area regulations,
try to talk to game wardens and biologists several times prior to the season,areal photos help if current.
youll need to know what your hunting, and any limitations,
like shotguns only or 500 sq inches of orange in a vest and hat.
or limits on tree stands or vehicles camping or road access.
re-read the whole thread several times,you increase the odds by being alert and noting details
get a topo map, of the area, youll need to stay safe, warm, dry , you need decent boots and a day pack.
if available get a map marked with local property boundary lines
call the local fish and game office get current info, if you can find a local mentor so much better.
use your brain,look over the terrain and be aware that most deer will try to avoid roads and camp sites.
you need to know what the local game eats where it tends to bed, and be able to recognize potential feed like white oak,
wondering aimlessly hoping to see deer is a waste of effort in most cases , work smart not hard, if water is scarce, water holes are a used asset.
if theres a big camp site try to use the flood of foot traffic at dawn, to your advantage,
look for natural funnels like fenced highways or cliff faces that tend to force game traveling through an area too bunch up
look for escape routes. realize most hunters are adverse to putting in the effort to cross streams or climb steep embankments
some of the best areas may require wading a small stream or climbing a steep grade to gain access.
if you get a shot never assume you missed, even well hit deer can rush off as if totally untouched only to fall 50 yards into the tree line.
be aware of whats beyond the target, you don,t want a bullet to carry into property and cause damage.
get a decent cooler and bags of ice, youll need cold water or soda and if you score youll need to cool the venison.
a quality tree stand can be huge asset as can quality binoculars
If you intend to hunt the area regularly start a log book a and buy and use an accurate GPS.
log terrain, take pictures ,note game, vegetation, and time of day and date seen info
divide and label the area in your log, into 1/8 mile squares for reference

heres a quick memory jog list, for MY hunting day pack
(you may not need everything but it may jog your memories,
or cause you too think.)
(remember you might be forced to stay out over night,
& weather is unpredictable)
I generally leave camp and will be out for 3-4 days before returning to the truck unless we have an elk down
skinning knife
kukri
compact blade sharpener
compass
area topo maps
canteen
licences
cell phone (car charger and/or back-up batteries)
several lighters
several mil surplus trioxane heat tabs
granola bars
rain poncho
2 gallon zip lock bags
small block & tackle hoist & rope(50 ft parachute cord)
spare ammo
heavy hoodie jacket
large plastic tarp
aspirin
other meds
lip chapstick
water purification tablets, or filter/pump
down vest
gps
pack of wetnaps
toilet paper
emergency food
on your belt
large knife or light tomahawk, or kukuri
the cold steel (TRAIL MASTER, or ( KUKRI) are good choices
canteen

anything that could get screwed up if you fall in a creek like medicine, licences, cell phones etc. gets double zip loc bagged

Grumpy · Apr 3, 2019

I got asked about the log book and grid area notes concept
its really not difficult and over time its a noticeable advantage over the throngs that wonder aimlessly hoping to luck into stupid deer.
you order the map of the area you hunt , get a ruler and a black pen and grid off the generally 24" x 36" map into about 4" to 6" square grid sections
neatly label each square on the grid A-Z an if required to have more, AA-ZZ use your GPS to identify where your at when hunting, label and photos or notes with the grid location and date
over time youll see very definite patterns in game travel emerge, now when my DAD was alive he had a private pilot licence so I had him fly the grid prior too and post season, so I could get a grasp,
on how the Arial view was but thats just a bonus.
you'll want a quality binder to protect notes that has easy access to add pages and a place for a calendar and several pens for dates photos and a gps
you'll also want a couple 2.5 gallon zip loc bags to protect the notes and binder in your truck or back pack,
yes it takes a bit of extra effort, but youll be far more successful as a result of the knowledge gained and retained.

drcook · Apr 4, 2019

This is a tremendously long post to read, so sorry if these points are duplicates.

1. Don't leave the woods for lunch. After a few days of hunting season, deer will pattern that humans leave the woods for lunch, opening up an opportunity to move, leave the area. Take what you need to eat with you.

2. It might have been on one of the links, but use UV Block on every piece of equipment that has been dyed. Clothes, backpacks, rifle slings, etc. I had a new backpack that gave me away. I bought it the night before and didn't have time to spray it with UV Block. I deer walked into the area I was at and immediately swiveled its head and looked at me. I have never been looked at by a deer until this happened and firmed up in my mind the value of UV block.

Once they have been treated, do not wash in commercial detergents, they have UV brighteners in them. There are specific soaps that do not. This is such a big deal, the US military is cognizant of the effect of UV. Deer and horses have their vision shifted into the UV spectrum, ours towards the infrared. That is why we see blaze orange and the new yellow safety clothes so well. Shadows and the less light in woods, as well as at night, has a lot of light towards the UV spectrum. That is why a deer (and a horse) can walk through the woods at night and not poke out their eyes.

Ever see yourself glow under a black light ? Without UV blockers, that is what you look like to a deer.

When I was wearing a mask, even with large amounts of blaze orange on (treated of course), I have had birds land right beside me and other animals walk up to me, and literally jump when I moved.

3. Don't wear your boots when pumping fuel into your vehicles. They will pick up the smell of oil and gas.

4. I used to hang my clothes in our barn when we had horses so they would lose the smell of people. I also started using Ivory bar soap, unscented and not wearing deodorant.

After I started practicing these points (when I used to hunt) my freezer always had deer meat in it.

Grumpy · Apr 4, 2019

all good and useful points! THANK YOU!

most of the areas I hunt are what most people consider thicker brush,

heres a few tips in no particular order

(1) watch the wind, your scent will flow down wind far faster than you can still hunt thus you need to keep any breezes in your face
carry a small can of unscented talc powder to check wind , just drop a puff of powder and watch the wind move it

(2)learn to shoot skeet, it comes in handy when you need to react and shoot a fast moving game

(3) wash your clothes with non-scented detergent without color brightners and add a couple table spoons of baking soda to a large trash bag , and maybe a couple handsful of pine needles,
store the clean clothes in the trash bag
Ideally, change into those camo clothes as close to the hunt area as you can so you have less potential to pick up non-woodland odors like food and smoke and fuel

(4)if theres any decent trees use a tree stand thats at least 20-25 feet tall as it tends to disperse scent above the game
once up in a tree stand be patient, it may take your observing for several hours a day for several days, before you see game
if you don,t see game in three days change locations by at least several hundred yards.

(5) if still hunting, walk in an irregular pattern, take 5-6 steps stop, for 1-2 minutes minimum,
4-5 minutes is better, look over 360 degrees and try to stop near brush that breaks up your outline
take notes and use a map to sketch pout game trail locations, food plots, bedding areas
stay alert, learn the topography of the area
if you start aimlessly walking around, plodding step after step... not being observant,
game will detect and avoid your area, and you very quickly

(6)sight in your rifle to hit a inch or two high at 100 yards

(7) a lower power scope in the 2,5X -4x range with a 40mm-50mm front lens and heavy cross hairs helps in lower light and tends to increase your odds of seeing game.

(8) try to keep your arrival in the area quiet, slamming car doors, radios,playing , flashing head lights ,on, engines idling, loud talking is counter productive.

(9) never piss anywhere near your tree stand

(10) carry anything you need in a backpack, ideally in several larger zip-loc bags to limit odors
many things you never thought of like a leather knife sheath , rain ponchos,and foods, retain odors

(11)try to get into decent physical shape, you will not be dragging out game if you have a heart attack under the physical stress.
your not trying to look over the whole area, your trying to find game, slow down and be observant watch the wind and be aware of everything around you in all 360 degrees, you need to see game before it sees you, that won,t happen if your strolling aimlessly through the area like a human in a shopping mall.

(12) don,t expect even well hit game to drop instantly, when hit!
follow up on every shot you take, its very common for even well hit game to travel 20-60 yards after a bullet impact to the vitals
even a 10 ga slug through both lungs won,t always instantly drop game in its tracks every time.

read this thread
https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/whitetail-deer-hunting/418200-florida-whitetail-experience.html

rlphvac · Apr 4, 2019

Grumpy I may have to move my tree stand at the farm this year they are capping off old gas wells on the property and my stand is right behind one. I hate to move because this stand has been very good to me I always have seen deer not big numbers but about 10 a day estimate and I have shot a deer all 5 years that I've hunted there 3 buck and 2 doe. I have been looking for a place and I want to move this spring so the deer get used to it being there my main question is where on the internet can I find topo maps to look at I cant seem to find any

Grumpy · Apr 4, 2019

it would help if you posted the ADDRESS of the property???
Ill look through my records
if you don,t care to share on line message me, on the web site

rlphvac · Apr 4, 2019

No worries about the location Grumpy its so far from anything its in a little town called Jolleytown Pa and that's in Greene county we pretty much boarder West Virginia

Grumpy · Apr 4, 2019

I can,t find aerial photos or topo maps without an address or latitude/longitude grid numbers
lots of guys don,t take full advantage of modern technology, you just need a few details to allow you to access maps and aerial photos in most of the country
https://www.latlong.net/place/pennsylvania-usa-3230.html
https://www.google.com/maps/@39.72842,-80.331303,842m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en-US
https://huntwise.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI96Pc-JK34QIVE0wNCh2mQgTiEAAYASAAEgIMZvD_BwE

new guy deer hunting tips?

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

solid fixture here in the forum

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

solid fixture here in the forum

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

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The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

solid fixture here in the forum

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

solid fixture here in the forum

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.