New to me 84 Corvette

Crossfire Mike

Active Member
So I recently picked up this car for cheap. Had been sitting for many years in doors so not too bad. I brought it home and started with the basics of getting it going again. Replaced all fluids from radiator to rear end did everything to get it running. Once moving on it's own then the parts that needed replacing showed them selves. Alt, Master/slave cylinders, brakes, water pump, fuel pump, dash etc. Got it to a solid stage zero which is basically a sorted up to date maintenance good running non-modded car. Drove it like this for a month or so and realized that I was pretty sure my Lexus LS430 was probably a faster.... so I started modding with the budget I have for it.
What I've done so far is cut and sealed the radiator to make a ram air effect. I also ported a stock manifold pretty extensively I read about these manifolds being "wet" and thought some dimples may help keep the fuel suspended. I don't think it's hurt any but may have been a waste of time, removed the swirls from the lids and doubled gasket'ed the throttle body to raise them slightly and installed new injectors. with the TPI fuel pump I raised fuel pressure to 18psi. (I need it) I also port matched the heads to the new manifold port size while heads were still on the car it was sketchy but I pulled it off. I installed the Crane cam 114132 with some 1.6RR's I also had to replace the valve springs as I was getting valve float bad above 4K rpm after the new springs it spins up to my ignition box's rev limiter(5800) but there not much going on past 5500 anyways. _storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181026_220047.jpg _storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181112_145518.jpg _storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181022_151220.jpg _storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181124_232524.jpg IMG_0229.JPG _storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181103_132347.jpg I installed a summit ignition box I even side gapped my plugs as an experiment and I think it actually helped and of course the obligatory K&N filter. I put some Magna flow mufflers on and did something else to the exhaust I can't talk about in California.
_storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181022_151034.jpg _storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181027_011243.jpg The rear suspension bushing were all shot so I replaced them with an energy suspension kit and scored a deal on some 92 wheels and spacers. I currently run a pretty advanced initial timing setting and may go more as it shows no sign of detonation even on the cheap gas. So far I've been having a lot of fun with this car and after many many years of wanting a Corvette I'm happy to have rescued this one. It now actually runs very good and feels so much different than when it was all stock. I do realize though that I'm pretty close to the limit or at the limit of the cylinder heads and any more money spent under the hood would not get the big results I've already had. Plus this engine is archaic in it's technology. So I'm not giving up I'm just moving to the rest of the suspension and looking into a ZF 6spd conversion( the 4+3 is actually not too bad I think and possibly some rear gears and weight reduction if I can find it.._storage_emulated_0_Pictures_84 Corvette_20181026_220058.jpg
 
first let me say I'm impressed with the pictures and amount of effort youve put into the project.
most of us are forced to work on very limited budgets, so I fully understand the limitations,
youve made some obviously helpful gains/improvements, the current cylinder heads are a huge restriction to power levels, Id consider upgrading the cost is well worth the effort


the OEM crossfire heads for 1984 are casting number 462624 76cc heads
462624 chevy head flow numbers
(these are the heads that came on the 1984 corvettes)
just a bit of info on those stock #624 head flow rates

.......intake....exhaust
.100..44..........41cfm
.200..101..........82cfm
.300.155..........125cfm
.400..182..........137cfm
.500..196..........140cfm

(THATS PATHETIC)

read this
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/


https://oldcarmemories.com/1982-1984-l83-5-7-liter-cross-fire-injection-v8-love-it-or-hate-it/

theres a ton of related and useful info in links and sub links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ntake-for-cross-fires.2796/page-40#post-90195

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/got-a-cross-fire-corvette.640/#post-50502

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ported-crossfire-383.10240/#post-41065

the threads have links youll need

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3105/#post-68805

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...trical-wiring-for-a-tbucket.10038/#post-39056

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...vious-owner-butchered-wiring.3439/#post-19529

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/lots-of-wiring-info-diagrams.317/#post-84479

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-46703

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...urrent-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-33363

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3090/#post-8220

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/heat-shrink-tubing.1443/#post-28050
 
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Nice.
Couple of things worth noting since you have your 1984 Crossfite running nice as is on 87 octane pump gasoline like I do with my 1987 Corvette TPI 350 convertible.
Any performance mod typical done here such as better aluminum heads, better intake, camshaft matched and long Tube headers will require running on 93 octane gas all the time.
With you living in California there are Smog checks.
And gasoline is real expensive there.

Looking at old tech now that only delivers so much and streetable.
Will cost $5-10k.

I left my C4 engine alone for the most part.
Realized not worth it.

Big Chevy swap or a Pontiac V8 swap delivers both more torque and Hp value.

Today Turbocharging rules.
Can not be matched at all easy.
700 Hp more no sweat.
 
Also another member with a 1984 Crossfire has issues EFI tuning.
No one will touch these old C4 Corvettes no more.
Need to ditch the entire stock ECM.
GO AFTERMARKET.
INSTALL A HOLLEY 4BBL CARB.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, Grumpy I know the heads are garbage as far as flow:(. I was looking at the summit brand iron heads and even their aluminum ones. I decided against at this time because better heads would kick me directly down the slippery slope of supporting mods. Renegade intake, shorty headers, x pipe, and possibly having to bore the throttle body's and larger injectors or at least a solution to fuel the air and what ever else would be needed to make the combination the most efficient. All adding up to a pretty good sum of $$$$$

Right now I think that my factory ported intake and terrible flowing heads and stock exhaust manifolds are a good match for each other and the cam upgrade made everything not so lazy. I have and old TPI wet flow NOS kit still in the box that I'm considering adapting to the L83 as no kit is available now as you know. I'm pretty committed to keeping the factory configuration with bi annual smog checks here in CA. My ultimate goal for now is 275ish HP(w/no Nitrous). I think I may be close because of how it runs and my MPH at certain testing areas. The car as you all know is kind of light so I don't need 500hp per say to reach my speed goals plus I'm not trying to keep up with new Hell Cats or Stingray Corvette's those are so far out of my league I won't even bother.

All this being said the cars value even with my investment of money and time is not so great. At this point I realize I could have a pretty decent 91-95 Corvette bone stock close to or already exceeding my HP goals. Because I already have the car I'll continue to improve what I got as far as handling and ride quality goes and leave the engine alone for now, except for the nitrous as I have most of the parts to make it happen and can probably create a working kit for about $200-$300 in parts which would give good performance value. That should help ALOT for those short times when it's really needed. If for some reason the intake needs to come off again I will spend a few hours on it with my air tools and try to open it up even more. If something bad happens to the engine that will open the door to more extensive and better parts but I can't blow it up on purpose.

I will check out those links Grumpy left too.
 
You should have factory 3.07 Gears in the Dana 36 Rear diff.
1984 all they had was Dana 36.
There was a rare optional 3.31 or 3.36 ring and pinion headset 1984 only.

I see the 1985 Dana 44 that came in 4+3 for sale at times. Just $400-500. They are pretty strong. Like the 1985-88 style. Real clean alloy aluminum.
You can install Yukon 3.90 gears and Cheet. Pick up more acceleration and be ok on the street with overdrive.
Feel like 50-100 Hp added !

There is an old thread of mine on CFC4 up still last I checked where I used 3.90 Yukon D44 Gears for a drag racer.
Used to build alot of D44 IRS Vette diffs for the guys.
 
Most recent good news for the Corvette is, I got the A/C working again and it blows pretty cold. It's still the R12 so I replaced the low pressure switch and added an old can of R12 sealant/leak repair and a 12oz can of old stock R12 I had. After that it kicked right on and has been holding charge for a week or so now. Probably didn't need the leak repair but R12 is hard to get around here now days and I just did not want to chance it. In my younger years I didn't really care about A/C working or not but on these hotter days it make quite a difference for me and the enjoyment of the car and the wife now has one less excuse why she would rather ride in something else...
 
As was mentioned above, you should be thinking about a Dana 44 as you move up in HP and torque. A little too much oomph and a bit of clutch dumping will grenade the Dana 36 that is in it. There is a reason that the D36 behind a manual trans was a 1 year only feature.

As far as going to the factory ZF 6 speed, also as mentioned above, the rear ratio will be incorrect. The ZF equipped cars had a minimum 3.33:1 ratio, with 3:54's mostly.

The Tremecs and other aftermarket 5/6-speed trans don't have this issue (never read about it yet) and their shifters would be in the correct position. A factory 6-speed is going to require tunnel work.

If you are going to do this and anticipate a rebuild of the Dana 44, there is only 1 place in the country left to get the different sized c-clips that sets the stub axle end play in the Dana 44.s

That is Tom's Differentials.

As far as the c-clips for the Dana 36, I have the only complete set left in the country THAT I KNOW of. There are probably others sitting around in someone's garage, but finding them is another issue.
 
The Axle side clips can be custom sized on a Brown and Sharp Surface Grinder.
I have a partial set from Tons left.
 
I went back and looked and I guess I overlooked them, the other issue is Tom passed away, his family is still running it for the time being and the business is for sale.

they are here:

IA Snap Ring Set Part # 36V-IASR-Set Price $ 59.00

http://tomsdifferentials.com/2011catalog/Pages24.pdf

The Axle side clips can be custom sized on a Brown and Sharp Surface Grinder

True but you also have to find someone with a surface grinder. If you just have to take a .001 or .002 off, a flat piece of glass(shatterproof) and some wet/dry paper of different grits.

I have done LOTS of grinding, etc when I was in my 20's. One of the shops I worked at made automotive pulleys. Back in the day, pulleys were made in two different methods. In both cases you started with a cup that was drawn down out of flat stock and then had the hub furnace brazed onto the cup. Then either a 3 segmented die flattened out the cup while simultaneously stamping in the Vees. The other way was to form the Vees on German roller die machines. We ground up the flat segments and also machined/heat treated and ground the roller dies.

There in not much that I cannot make IF I have access to the machines. While it has been a little over 30 some years since I worked on the floor, it is like riding a bicycle, it comes back.

If I could choose which machines I would like to have to set myself up a shop it would be a Bridgeport, a good lathe, a Hardinge Tool Room lathe, a surface grinder, an ID/OD grinder, a power hacksaw and a band saw. Possibly a drill press and a small Blanchard grinder. With these machines you can do a LOT.
 
Crossfire is a dead platform. There is nothing that can be done with it and we keep getting farther away from replacement parts. But even if we could it wouldn't matter. Crossfire does not scale up. You can not make power with crossfire. the throttle bodies are tiny and so specific there is no aftermarket or large bore option. And the same for the injectors. Crossfire can run smooth and get surprisingly good mileage when restored properly, period. If you have an 84 and wanna make more power, get an edlebrock dual plane intake because the rest of the engine and transmission are not setup for the high rpm and get a 650cfm edlebrock or Holley with a distributor OR just get the intake and an aftermarket self tuning efi kit like the F.A.S.T. 30400-kit.

The fast fuel injection kit has 8 fuel injectors that run at 43.5psi, flows 1150cfm, and supports up to 1200hp. Whatever your motor can do it will do with the fast controller and an edlebrock performer intake. And the FAST is self tuning for an easy setup now and for any mods you will add down the road.
 
OR if you are so feeling it I have a better idea than an edlebrock intake:
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/ede...XXwkC6ie3e75y2vPQaEaAvJqEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You know, It is a direction you could take if you were searching for power. I'm not saying that poor little motor is gonna take that kinda abuse. You know you might wanna pop the heads and pan, ream the top of each cylinder bore and pop out one piston at a time and open up the ring gaps a bit. It is a long job but it does pay off with you getting to enjoy your stuff for a little longer as you start changing pulleys and ramping up that boost.
 
Hello All, I have not been here for some time been busy with life and stuff. I have been spending time with my Carrera 4, but just received something from Jegs that will start a new round of mods with the Corvette. I now see that no amount of porting on the stock intake would compare to the Renegade in it as received form. I won't be installing this until after the first of the year. I have my kids Christmas to get(pay) through and then will order up some AFR 0916's cylinder heads. Yep I'm going for it big time!! Hoping for 345-360hp on stock size throttlebodys after the cylinder heads and intake. I'll be shooting for at least a point more compression and a really tight quench. The weight reduction in just the right place won't hurt either. I'm pretty sure the stock exhaust manifolds will limit the power production but being in CA smog legal headers are hard to find. When their off the car I'll mod them best I can for more flow.
 

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just that renegade intake swap out will be a mild but easily noticeable improvement but as you stated,
its the cylinder heads that are the major restriction to making more power,
even the mild crane cam you installed will further benefit from both the heads and intake upgrade
 
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Thanks for the reply Grumpy, what do think about my power projection based on the mods I've done adding the Renegade intake and AFR heads. Please keep in mind I'll be using the factory exhaust manifolds and system for that matter but do have a cat delete and magnaflow mufflers.
 
1984 Corvette Specs
Engine
Cross-Fire Fuel-Injected V8 Engine
5.7 Liter (350 Cu. In.)
Stroke 3.48”
Horsepower 205 net @ 4300 RPM
Torque 290 ft. -lb. @ 2800 RPM

your going to also benefit from installing long tube headers,
but 350-360 rear wheel hp or a bit more should be doable with those mods
not bad considering thats almost double the stock power level
 
Well alright then, I was looking to get perhaps an honest 350 crank HP but if you think I can get close to that at the wheels all the better(very much better). I realize the stock exhaust manifolds will be a bottle neck so while their off during the cylinder head swap I'll have to really think hard about the budget and see if theres room for headers. Big problem is there's not much selection for CA smog legal options. I don't know maybe one of my exhaust shop buddys can fab up a pair modeled after the stock one just with larger tubes and add the air tubes. I may be able to get away with that.

Will later model headers fit the 84, like ones for say a 1990? I'm just thinking perhaps I can't see the forest because of all the tree's and I actually have more options than I think.
 
The real problem here is that these motors were designed around sub 300hp output and the manufacturers care a lot about port sizing and velocity as that really helps with the power generation and efficiency down low and they care even more about wasted material on production runs of tens of thousands of cars or even more engines at a time. You would do a lot better to start with an LS or boost the hell out of what you got just the way it is. It will be cheaper and yield you much better results if you are looking for power. But then that is why they are called power adders. nitrous and ebay turbos can be had for the cheapest. From there Weiand makes old school superchargers for the sbc like the 142 that sell for just a couple thousand and then there are the better cooled magnuson or centri blowers or professional top dollar twin turbo kits, but with a little effort and a little money you could certainly try to clone the TT setup of the C4 Callaway corvette that made 500hp back in the 1980's. I'm just saying boost is a disruptive technology to the argument between port size vs. airflow.
 
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