New Too Me Car Oil Change

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
I bought my car in December. I’ve just rolled over 6200 miles. I am taking a road trip in two weeks that will put 1500 miles on the car, so I’ll hit my first oil change before I get to the destination. Do I change it early or change it at the destination Either 1000 miles early or 500 miles late

Id change it early vs later so the engines getting max protection under higher stress conditions ,
but with modern synthetic oils its unlikely to be an issue either way,
where it might make a difference is its going to allow you to flush out any crud in the sump ,
that might have accumulated during the assembly or manufacturing process,
and that has since come loose circulating in that older oil.

Also changing it early the dealer can't refuse a warranty claim because you didn't perform the required service "as recommended"

related info
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ilter-you-sellect-does-make-a-differance.117/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-oil-what-viscosity.1334/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/magnets.120/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/inspecting-filter.4611/
 
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btw most paint stores and places like lowes and home depot sell these paint filters dirt cheap,
Id suggest you buy a couple and use them, to filter draining oil as the oil drains out ,
as they are rather useful for rapidly indicating potential engine wear issues
btw hot oil will cause them to fold so you use them dropped into a large funnel as a support structure
paintfilter2a.jpg


there's several tips in the video, that might help, and related info that might prove helpful, if you know them.
flushing old oil of unknown age or composition, before you run the engine or start tuning may help
personally Id have used or added a pint of marvel mystery oil and a half a can of seafoam during both of those engine oil crud,
flush & change cleaning sessions,

that they used to remove the crud build up on the older engine.
remember the seafoam and MMO, will break loose a bunch of sludge that you will have trapped in the oil filter.
and I would use some standard non synthetic oil on that second flush,
no sense spending big bucks on oil that will be flushed in an hour or so.
simply because you know its going to be drained and pitched after an hours run time along with the oil filter.
(and of course I'd suggest you put on a new oil filter at the start and end of the two engine oil/ solvent engine flush sessions)
oil filters are cheap and frequent oil and filter changes insure a more durable engine

check with AMAZON, your local Wal-Mart and auto parts stores for deals on oil filters and gallons of oil.
I generally buy oil filters in groups of 4-6 minimum.


you'll want a decent size metal funnel as plastic can get flimsy if subjected to hot oil flow
and you'll want insulating gloves if you're holding a metal funnel full of hot oil, and of course,
a decent container to drain that hot oil into

shop carefully, identical funnels can be found for sale,
that cost $18-over $90 on ebay and amazon


TRACTOR SUPPLY SELLS A 4-quart version,
thats near ideally sized that Ive used for 20 years or more

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/delphos-funnel-6-qt-3958503
3958503


https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/outdoor-power-equipment/funnels/7060460

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/outdoor-power-equipment/funnels/7060478

related
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-limited-amounts-of-fuel-or-waste-oil.11606/
 
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