Newby to site. "Old" long time street rodder

S

Shell Knob

New Member
I have built 2 street rods since my retirement in 2006. Both cars, 27' Roadster, and 32' Coupe were powered by carbureted SBC engines. My newest car (32' ford Roadster) is powered by a early Street & Performance 5.7l. I haven't worked on ECM controlled cars for quite some time, and this will be a re-learning curve.
A few questions as I become familiar with the car and the TPI control system: What affect does the MAT signal have on the engines operation? (minimal as I remember) It appears that the sensor or circuit is intermittently open. (signal too low)
The scanner also tells me that the VSS signal is shorted. The car has a Classic Instruments speedometer. I don't know any more about it yet. The car is equipped with a 700R4 transmission. The car runs good and shifts normally, but it seems to (at times) "bang" when slowing down and shifting into 1st gear.
I would appreciate any advise on the S & P 5.7l and the items I mentioned from those of you who have experience with this setup.
Thanks much,

Dave
 

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welcome to the forum, what was the source for the car body kit?
 
Shell Knob said:
I have built 2 street rods since my retirement in 2006. Both cars, 27' Roadster, and 32' Coupe were powered by carbureted SBC engines. My newest car (32' ford Roadster) is powered by a early Street & Performance 5.7l. I haven't worked on ECM controlled cars for quite some time, and this will be a re-learning curve.
A few questions as I become familiar with the car and the TPI control system: What affect does the MAT signal have on the engines operation? (minimal as I remember) It appears that the sensor or circuit is intermittently open. (signal too low)
The scanner also tells me that the VSS signal is shorted. The car has a Classic Instruments speedometer. I don't know any more about it yet. The car is equipped with a 700R4 transmission. The car runs good and shifts normally, but it seems to (at times) "bang" when slowing down and shifting into 1st gear.
I would appreciate any advise on the S & P 5.7l and the items I mentioned from those of you who have experience with this setup.
Thanks much,

Dave
Click to expand...
Welcome.
The IAT/ MAT Intake air temp sensor acts like the choke on a street Carburator.
Changes to cold weather starting tables in cool weather.
The TV Throttle Valve cable controls much of shift timing shift performance in a 700R4.
 
Welcome to the forum from Oklahoma!

Some things to check.......
Have you checked the transmission fluid? Is it bright red or does it smell burnt?
Has the filter ever been changed?
Motor mounts?
U-Joints?
Have you verified the TV cable adjustment?
 
The valve body separator plate in 700R4 & 4L60E are often damaged bad.
Checkballs get stuck.
Transgo sells them new.
2 holes are missing for early C4 Corvette.
For Auto WOT 3-4 Upshifts and holds 4th indefinate. Only done on Corvettes.
 
Could also be the anti-clunk spring. It's job is to stop that noise during the 2-1 down shift.

AntiClunkSpring.jpg
 
If your thinking of pulling the oil pan on the transmission Id suggest adding a few magnets
SmCo Samarium Cobalt Disc Magnets
http://www.magnet4less.com/
enginemagn.jpg


Samarium Cobalt MAGNETS HELP
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-disk-magnet-dia-1x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/
and changing the trans filter and fluid,

18057258_acd_tf289_pri_larg.jpg

yes its very much worth the cost/effort, adding a deep pan dropped my trans oil temp 10-12 degrees.. while that may not sound like much it potentially increases trans life significantly, 30% or more and YES it sticks down an additional 1.5" so road pan clearance on a corvette becomes enough less that speed bumps could potentially be a problem
890528200.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...fo-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/#post-34937

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/magnets.120/#post-49772

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...t-info-and-related-700r4-info.857/#post-69365
 
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