non-running lt1

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
Maddawg03 said:
I posted a while back that my newly rebuilt LT1 would not run at temperature. In talking to several people over the last couple of weeks we've narrowed it down to what we believe is either a bad sensor (o2, knock, IAC, MAP, etc.) or the computer program itself. I ordered a custom tune from PCMforLess and will be getting that in today and we swapped the O2 sensors with new AC Delco sensors to rule that out (ACD-AFS21). The knock sensors are new as well but I don't have the part number.

Before installing the chip we figured we would run the car with the new O2 sensors to see if that changed anything. It did. Now the car doesn't run at all. We have checked the connections to the O2 sensors and as far as we can tell everything looks good. What are the odds that the new O2 sensors are bad?

Any other ideas?

-Maddawg03



The first thing ID do is VERIFY the CAUSE, OF THE PROBLEM FOR THAT, THRU ISOLATING AND TESTING, COMPONENTS AND SYSTEMS
A SHOP MANUAL IS ALMOST MANDATORY,

THESE LINKS should help

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=728

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1241&p=3037&hilit=+sensor#p3037

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=609&p=5672#p5672

always drop back to the basics when youve got a problem, its amazing the number of times that simple things get overlooked , things that cause big problems like getting the ignition wired incorrectly or forgetting to connect sensors.
let me know how your progressing on checking thru the basics
do you have,
compression,
arethe valves adjusted,
correct ignition timing,
fuel delivery and fuel pressure,
do you have spark,at the plugs,
oil pressure,on the gauge
good fuel quality
any smoke from the exhaust?
and are you checking trouble codes, etc.
heres some basic info

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1241

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401



Grumpy thanks again for offering your assistance. I'll summarize what my dad found in regards to your comments below. Wall of Text to follow.

Some additional information in addition to those questions. I was swapping intakes back to the stock intake manifold (Long story short there was an incompatibility between my stock fuel rails and the Edelbrock intake manifold that wasn't discovered until after we had everything back in the car). When my dad pulled the intake manifold off he verified we had oil in the valley so this combined with the fact that we had good pressure (somewhere around 60psi) seems to indicate that oil flow has been good all along.

We haven't confirmed it but when my dad pulled a couple plugs they were black and oily so we suspect fouled plugs may have contributed to the latest difficulties. The engine is definitely running rich. When my dad originally changed the O2 sensors he dropped the cat to get easier access and saw the exhaust was full of carbon build up. The rich condition could have fouled the plugs and the change in behavior may have just coincided with the O2 sensor change.

Our plan of attack now is first of all for me to delay my trip home to pick up the vehicle. My dad is going to get the plugs pulled and cleaned up. We are going to install my new chip. I have to order the correct fuel injectors as the 32# units I originally ordered showed up with 4 correct injectors and 4 that are for some other application (4 black - 4 yellow). My dad will install the new injectors and we will give a go again with the clean plugs. At that point we can check again for the electrical stuff (Injector resistance, Injector pulsing, spark at the plug, and compression if needed). I am hopeful that running the engine on the old tune was forcing the car to run rich and led to fouled plugs. Hopefully cleaning the plugs combined with the new tune will allow the engine to run and prevent the fouling of the plugs.


compression - My dad did not get around to checking compression.

arethe valves adjusted - The valves are adjusted correctly

correct ignition timing - My dad still believes timing is the problem but the distributor is installed correctly so the only timing adjustment comes from the computer (I think). We could still have a sensor sending false readings but it sounded like from our earlier discussion that shouldn't cause the car to not run at all.

fuel delivery and fuel pressure - He hasn't checked pressure yet, but there is fuel in the fuel rails and it did not appear to contain any moisture. The rich condition would seem to indicate that fuel delivery isn't an issue though.

do you have spark,at the plugs - This may be our culprit. My dad pulled 2 or 3 of the plugs before checking for spark and they are covered in a dark oily grime (fouled). I don't think he has actually checked for spark yet.

oil pressure,on the gauge - My dad told me what it read but I can't remember the exact number. I want to say around 60psi.

good fuel quality - This is suspect number 2. We didn't find any evidence of moisture but it is 4 month old fuel.

any smoke from the exhaust? No smoke but the tips are dripping black liquid. Not a lot but it is noticeable.

and are you checking trouble codes, etc. - Still not throwing any codes. You had mentioned a possible cpu failure. How would I definitively diagnose this (Is it process of elimination). As I understand it the computers in the LT1s are no longer available new.[/color]

theres more testing necessary
replacing the plugs and gapping them correctly, verify the ignition wire resistance and that your getting a good spark on all plugs, is mandatory at this point, verify the fuel purssure,
but a defective engine heat sensors,(coolant & mat) plugged cats, leaking injectors, bad O2 sensor data and a few other factors seem to be indicated at this point without further info, call me, Ill help narrow down the possabilities.
 
I was just going to start this thread. To update on our progress my dad has gotten most of the plugs out and now we need to get replacements. A question relative to this, we set the gap at 0.050, as the service manual and owners manual stated, is this correct.

Our plan right now is to get the new plugs, correct injectors, verify fuel pressure (my dad needs to get his hands on a gage), ohm the injectors, and verify spark.

You mention a plugged Cat. Two questions about that. How do I diagnose it? How likely is it that a new Cat is plugged after about 30-40 minutes of total runtime.

As for sensors, we have replaced the O2 and knock sensors and I had to reterminate the connectors on the IAC and MAP sensors (Lesson here is a screwdriver is not the optimal tool for disconnecting a 16 year old plastic connector). The coolant temperature, oil pressure, and oil temperature sensors are original. Is there any easy way to test these for function?

I probably won't have another update until next weekend as my brother is flying in to visit my parents for a few days today so my dad won't have a chance to work on it again until next weekend. I'll post back then with an update on what we find relative to fuel pressure, injector function, and spark.
 
Maddawg03 said:
I was just going to start this thread. To update on our progress my dad has gotten most of the plugs out and now we need to get replacements. A question relative to this, we set the gap at 0.050, as the service manual and owners manual stated, is this correct.

IVE ALWAYS FOUND .043-.045 as more consistant

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=202

Our plan right now is to get the new plugs, correct injectors, verify fuel pressure (my dad needs to get his hands on a gage), ohm the injectors, and verify spark.

You mention a plugged Cat. Two questions about that. How do I diagnose it?

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=607

viewtopic.php?f=56&t=495

FIRST ID SUGGEST GETTING IT RUNNING as it might burn off the crud once the engines running correctly

How likely is it that a new Cat is plugged after about 30-40 minutes of total runtime.

un-likely but possiable

As for sensors, we have replaced the O2 and knock sensors and I had to reterminate the connectors on the IAC and MAP sensors (Lesson here is a screwdriver is not the optimal tool for disconnecting a 16 year old plastic connector). The coolant temperature, oil pressure, and oil temperature sensors are original. Is there any easy way to test these for function?

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=1219&p=2584&hilit=+sensor#p2584

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=728&p=1915&hilit=+sensor#p1915

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=596&p=1200&hilit=+sensor#p1200

I probably won't have another update until next weekend as my brother is flying in to visit my parents for a few days today so my dad won't have a chance to work on it again until next weekend. I'll post back then with an update on what we find relative to fuel pressure, injector function, and spark.
 
You can use the manual to understand the original design intent of the many systems on your car, and if they aren't working properly, can also give you some idea of what your favorite mechanics will be looking for as they diagnose your problem.

The FSM's are available from Helm, Inc. The following links will take you to the relevant location for all years of C4 Vettes. These links show all the literature available from Helm, Inc. for that year ...



1984

1984 Factory Service Manual


1985

1985 Factory Service Manual


1986

1986 Factory Service Manual


1987

1987 Factory Service Manual


1988

1988 Factory Service Manual


1989

1989 Factory Service Manual


1990 (Separate ZR-1 (LT5) Manuals are shown from 1990 thru 1994)

1990 Factory Service Manual


1991

1991 Factory Service Manual


1992

1992 Factory Service Manual


1993

1993 Factory Service Manual


1994

1994 Factory Service Manual


1995 (No separate ZR-1 Service Manual)

1995 Factory Service Manual


1996

1996 Factory Service Manual
 
Another question that has come up. I went with whatever NGK plugs my engine builder selected but since I'm replacing them due to the fouling (see picture) how do I select a plug?

http://dbraden01.home.comcast.net/~dbraden01/DSC00990.JPG

http://dbraden01.home.comcast.net/~dbraden01/DSC00989.JPG

I'd like to get something a little more readily available perhaps even sticking with AC Delco. What determines whether you run a stock plug vs. a "hotter" or "colder" plug?

I have both the cheap haynes manual and the full Helms manual with the electrical addendum and both have been immensely helpful throughout the rebuild.
 
NGK,AUTOLITE,AC DELCO, all work just fine
reading plugs is a very good indicator of both fuel air ratios and heat levels
theres tons of info on the site about reading plugs, a/f ratios and INFRARED temp guns but this will get you started

http://www.4secondsflat.com/plug_chart.html

pick one of the brands above and find the plug listed as "stock suggested plug" for your engine
 
Just a brief update. My dad picked up the new plugs today and when comparing them to the ones provided by my engine builder realized a couple of things.

1. The correct plugs have a taper seat (The bosch on the car when I bought it were tapered, and the NGK plug listed for this application has a taper seat). The plugs provided by my engine builder had gasket seats. This gasket was deformed due to the torque applied during install and the conical shape of the spark plug hole. This may explain a lot of our problems. I suspect the plugs didn't properly seal and the engine may have been sucking in unmetered air at the cylinders. This might also explain the fact that when the car was running (at least while cold), the volume was louder than I had expected (even with the corsa exhaust).

2. The fouled plugs that we are removing are a hotter plug than the stock application. This seems counter intuitive since generally from what I've read increasing horsepower by a large amount often necessitates a colder plug. Not sure exactly what this would mean but it was something I noticed.

My dad has started installing the new plugs tonight, he hopes to have that done tomorrow night, and see what happens.

Could this be a logical root cause of my problems.

On a side note I never realized there were different seat types on plugs. So despite the chore this is, I am learning new things. Next time I do plugs I have to add seat type to my list of stuff to check in addition to thread, length, and gap.
 
Another UPDATE:

We have the car running again and my dad took it around the block. The idle however is low. This may be a result of the custom tune from PCMforLess but I'm still trying to get my dad to verify fuel pressure (He's been to lazy to go buy/rent a gage even though I'm paying).

The car runs solid over 1000rpm but it is trying to idle at 500rpm. My dad is checking vacuum and I've asked him to check fuel pressure. What else should we be looking at?

Also, and I suspect this is normal, but when my dad backs off of the car after accelerating there is a 'pop' from the exhaust. This isn't as loud as a backfire but it is apparently noticeable. I think I've read about this especially with Corsa exhausts but what is generally the cause. I believe it is a function of the cam correct?

-Maddawg03
 
Well this continues to be an ongoing project. The car has been at the tuner's shop with him working on it intermittently for 3 weeks now. We have narrowed it down to a fuel delivery issue and believe it to be the pump that is the culprit. It is a brand new Walbro pump (GSS340M from Racetronix) but the fuel pressure is dying as throttle is increased. Datalogging indicates the engine goes extremely lean as it approaches 2200 rpm. The tuner pulled the pump and and running it in a bucket of gasoline, the output is intermittent and foamy and there is a lot of vibration. I only today found out that the tuner saw 4-5 psi of pressure at 3200 rpm. To me that would have screamed fuel delivery problem 2 weeks ago.

My thought if replacing the pump doesn't solve it is that the pressure regulator is not functioning correctly, but given what was observed with the pump I'm inclined to believe that is the culprit.

Any thoughts with the new information would also be appreciated.

-Maddawg03
 
Learned something new this afternoon. Apparently the 255lph walbro pump doesn't play nice with the Fuel Pump Pulsator which is why Racetronix provides the section of fuel line and hose clamps to use after removing the pulsator. I plan to have the tuner remove the pulsator and re-test on Monday.

Racetronix didn't deem it necessary to inform us of this so we didn't remove the pulsator. And to cap it off they told my dad that that's why they don't like the DIY type installing pumps. Apparently, if you are not magically smart enough to know that a component should be removed you don't deserve any help in learning.

Regardless I'm hopeful this is the problem and I will be able to get the car back on the road next week.

-Maddawg03
 
In the spirit of keeping this updated, the tuner pulled the pulsator out and replaced it with a short stretch of fuel line and two hose clamps and the loss of power over 3200 rpm is gone. Sure enough we had all the parts to fix the problem and spent 3 weeks finding the problem. Now that we know what it was one of the other guys at the tuner's shop proceeded to explain how common this is with high flow fuel pumps.

The tuner inspected the pulsator and it had a diaphragm that was visibly ruptured. He will be tuning the car on the dyno tomorrow and I should have it back at my parents tomorrow evening (barring any unforseen developments during the tuning tomorrow). Then it will be a scramble to get it aligned and the AC recharged before I fly home to pick it up this weekend.

-Maddawg03
 
Well, I can finally end this thread. We got the car back this afternoon. 356 rwhp and 354 ft*lbs of torque after tuning. :D

After solving the fuel delivery issue we discovered the base timing was off by 20-40 degrees. Don't even ask how we missed this for so long. I will say it's amazing the computer could compensate for that much error. Turns out I had a bad MSD Optispark, even though it was brand new, but I guess these things happen. Got a new distributor, installed it, and the car runs like a top.

Biggest lesson learned from the whole endeavor is to not rush a project like this in the future. I tried to cram the entire thing into 6 or 8 days with me 700 miles away the rest of the time and ended up taking 6-8 months.

Thanks again for all the help. Now I just have to wait a week or so until my work schedule allows me to fly out and drive the car back.

-Maddawg03
 
the timing effects cylinder pressure, and where in the cycle it build which effects the torque produced, there's a good deal of lee way in what the timing can be set at and still spinn the engine, but the resulting power as you found out will vary with the timing
 
Back
Top