Oil for the tired 307?

[JimmyDuncan]

I tried a quick search for posts that break down choosing oil for an older engine, but unfortunately "oil" is a three letter word and gets excluded from the search.....

Can you recommend what sort/grade of oil and any additives that I should use in the tired 307 with unknown internals?

It'll be the first oil change I've done since I bought the car, so what comes out with the oil during the change may be interesting in itself.... I'll examine the oil carefully and see what's inside the filter..

 

[chromebumpers]

Jimmy, I prefer Castrol High mileage oil myself, but here is a very enlightening article from Popular Mechanics

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/

 

[busterrm]

It needs to be something with Zinc if the old engine is a flat tappet cammed engine.

 

[Grumpy]

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-oil-what-viscosity.1334/


heres common brands that all have decent value, high wear protection, that are not overly expensive
Chevron Supreme conventional,10w30
Pennzoil Ultra, 10w30
Castrol GTX conventional, 10w30
Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 10w30
Valvoline Premium Conventional, 10w30
Motorcraft 10w30

obviously the formula effects the resulting products characteristics

as a general rule as your engine oil viscosity is reduced the effort required to pump the oil thru clearances is lower and the pressure reading on the gauge drops, thats not necessarily an indication of lower bearing protection, as thats generally a function of oil quality and its formula, and basic components used, in its design, and generally its increased flow rate increases bearing cooling, a good quality 10w30 should ideally provide 20-22 psi at 800rpm idle (anything over 15-17 psi at 800rpm is fine) and 60-65psi by 5000rpm which is all you can use

 

[JimmyDuncan]

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-oil-what-viscosity.1334/


heres common brands that all have decent value, high wear protection, that are not overly expensive
Chevron Supreme conventional,10w30
Pennzoil Ultra, 10w30
Castrol GTX conventional, 10w30
Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 10w30
Valvoline Premium Conventional, 10w30
Motorcraft 10w30

obviously the formula effects the resulting products characteristics

as a general rule as your engine oil viscosity is reduced the effort required to pump the oil thru clearances is lower and the pressure reading on the gauge drops, thats not necessarily an indication of lower bearing protection, as thats generally a function of oil quality and its formula, and basic components used, in its design, and generally its increased flow rate increases bearing cooling, a good quality 10w30 should ideally provide 20-22 psi at 800rpm idle (anything over 15-17 psi at 800rpm is fine) and 60-65psi by 5000rpm which is all you can use

Ok thanks.

So a 10W-30 grade oil in one of the brands you listed? Is it likely I'll need to add anything to it? Zinc?

 

[JimmyDuncan]

Jimmy, I prefer Castrol High mileage oil myself, but here is a very enlightening article from Popular Mechanics

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/



View attachment 6196

Thanks Rich. I'll look into it at the local store.

 

[JimmyDuncan]

It needs to be something with Zinc if the old engine is a flat tappet cammed engine.

Yeah, that's what I thought... I'll need to research if any oils here have higher zinc..

 

[Grumpy]

OTHER THAN A GOOD OIL FILTER,
(something like an extra length WIX, purolator)

NAPA Gold filter
AND POSSIBLY A LARGE MAGNET,
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_13&products_id=1141

ADDED TO THE BOTTOM OF THAT OIL FILTER, to help trap metallic trash, in that filter,
YOU SHOULD NOT NEED ANYTHING ELSE.
now I generally swap in a quart of marvel mystery oil for one quart of the total volume in the oil pan,
but its not required