OIL Pans The good, the bad and ugly

racprops

Well-Known Member
So I have three pans two are too short for the BBC Oil pump and the one that fits has NO oil control baffles...

The short ones have a oil control baffle, these seem like a great idea.

And are these a kind of wind-age trays?? if so is it worth my time to put one on to my engine??
OR would my low RPM lugger get any use out of a full windage tray?

RichBaffel 2.jpgPan 1.jpgPan 2.jpg
 
can you change the oil pump pick-up angle, or swap to a different oil pump pick-up and get the required clearance?

61cSaiJAmTL._SL1500_.jpg


a dial caliper. a pad of paper, a magic marker, some fabrication skills ,
and owning a drill press and a decent welder or ideally a milling machine
can allow you to do amazing things in the correct hands,
especially when getting what you need is not available off the shelf
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The pan os hitting the pump its self.

I can use the blue pan it is a little lower/deeper and has about 1/2 an inch clearance, BUT no oil control baffles.

How important are those oil baffles?

My machine shop is looking though the stock of oil pans for a deep one matching the pan with a oil baffles.

I hope they can find one.

Also what about the windage trays, good, bad, wastes of time??

Or should I looking into a full real windage tray?? Would such help with my low RPM engine?

Rich
 
if the oil pumps hitting the oil pan interior, find out where its hitting
most oil pumps are of similar depth, but different brands of oil pump pick-ups vary a great deal in design and lateral clearance against the pans interior vertical walls,
you can add a windage screen and oil control baffles if you have a mig/tig welder , a decent 12" caliper, some masking tape and cardboard to use as a pattern, and test fitting the cardboard/taped parts, and basic welding skills, once you fabricate the steel parts required, very easily
but you might want to just buy a new aftermarket oil pan already modified if you don't feel up to the challenge of custom fabrication,
well designed oil control baffles do help keep the oil pump pick-up covered in oil,
especially under hard acceleration, hard breaking and hard turns, all those momentary lapses in full oil pressure, to the bearings that the oil pump pick-up being momentarily uncovered, thus sucking air vs oil, that a non-baffled oil pan sees,
tends to result in, more accelerated bearing wear, but unless consistent and frequent, those dips in oil flow rate/pressure are rarely critical on a street car that rarely sees consistent abuse at high stress and high rpms.




 
Last edited:
if the oil pumps hitting the oil pan interior, find out where its hitting
most oil pumps are of similar depth, but different brands of oil pump pick-ups vary a great deal in design and lateral clearance against the pans interior vertical walls,
you can add a windage screen and oil control baffles if you have a mig/tig welder , a decent 12" caliper, some masking tape and cardboard to use as a pattern, and test fitting the cardboard/taped parts, and basic welding skills, once you fabricate the steel parts required, very easily
but you might want to just buy a new aftermarket oil pan already modified if you don't feel up to the challenge of custom fabrication,
well designed oil control baffles do help keep the oil pump pick-up covered in oil,
especially under hard acceleration, hard breaking and hard turns, all those momentary lapses in full oil pressure, to the bearings that the oil pump pick-up being momentarily uncovered, thus sucking air vs oil, that a non-baffled oil pan sees,
tends to result in, more accelerated bearing wear, but unless consistent and frequent, those dips in oil flow rate/pressure are rarely critical on a street car that rarely sees consistent abuse at high stress and high rpms.





Thanks, I feel a pan with bottom baffles is best the others less.

Rich
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just found the main cap bolts to mount this long plate.

As it seems to be on two of my engines even with the baffle in the pan it seems like a good idea to put it on my engine??

Yes?? No?? Why??

Rich
 

Attachments

  • Baffel 2.jpg
    Baffel 2.jpg
    160.2 KB · Views: 1
that's a simple factory windage tray,
that in theory reduces the spinning crank assembly's tendency to cause oil to foam or get oil/air mix,
thus reducing oil pressure as oil a fluid won't compress but oil containing air bubble's
it surely helps but you have better options
greatly reduces the engine oils ability to lubricate
much more effective aftermarket designs are available
mil-32250.jpg

 
the real question is.....is it worth it if there's a 1-in-50 chance it prevents a burnt bearing
 
the real question is.....is it worth it if there's a 1-in-50 chance it prevents a burnt bearing
Which are you talking about, the baffles or the Windage Trays??

I have the long factory tray...so on that is the tray i considering on ebay worth the $60.00 VS the factory tray??

Rich
 
both windage trays and baffles used in conjunction to control oil return rates,
provide a noticeable improvement in potential engine durability
theres only a minimal improvement if you use the aftermarket version vs the factory windage tray WITH a baffled oil pan,
but I would do so EVERY time I had the choice
now a days you spend $60 on taking yourself and a buddy or two for coffee and a few subs,
in my opinion , swapping too the aftermarket windage tray,
is almost a no-brainer as far as an engine build goes as to benefit vs cost.
yeah this hobbys a bottomless money pit!
oil_cutter-en.jpg
 
Last edited:
Damn it is hard to find a low cost 8 inch pan, or even a baffle that we can well into one....

Any one have one to spare?

Rich
 
I've generally used poster board and tape to , cut, and test fit and make patterns for baffles then use sheet steel a few small cabinet hinges and a mig or TIG welder to install baffles in existing oil pans, but on many occasions I've modified and cut oil pans and modified 30 caliber ammo cans to make extended or higher volume oil sumps.

 
I am aware of the better oil pans and windage trays even the ones that can scrape off the oil on the counter weights.

But other than full power burn all the way to 4500 /5000 my engine will spend most of its life running between 1500 and 2500RPMs...

So at this point all I feel I need is a baffle in the pan to help hold oil there under hard breaking, and turns, and a simple factory windage tray.

SO I think I will be fine with a oil pan with a baffle like this and the windage tray like this.

Problem is the dumb ass pan IS deep enough in the front part of the slump, but it angles upward in the back and there it hits the BBC Pump.

I think even a 7.5 inch pan would work IF its bottom is FLAT.

Rich
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0628.JPG
    IMG_0628.JPG
    111.6 KB · Views: 2
  • Baffel 2.jpg
    Baffel 2.jpg
    160.2 KB · Views: 2
there should be several aftermarket options,
if you use a different oil pump pick-up,
will the oil pump fit one of the existing oil pans

what year is the block/
what side is the dip stick?
is it a two piece rear seal?

Id start by removing the existing oil pump pick-up and trying to see if the baffled oil pan you have will fit,
without the current oil pump pick-up, if it does, you need to find a more compatible pick-up

 
It seemed to hitting on the pump its self.

I was able to test it without a pickup. It still hit the pan.

It is a stock Milling BBC pump.

1992 350 passenger side dip stick

One piece rear seal.

Rich
 
@racprops

How much does the pan need to change to fit the pump??? If it's only a little, I had the same problem, You can modify the pan like I did by heating a small area and beating a small bubble in just the right area to clear the pump. Check out my problem/solution blow.

.
 
RICKS correct put a thin layer of play-do clay around the pump, and inside the oil pan in the suspected area of contact,
and test fit the pump in it, to locate the area needing to be modified
heat with propane torch and careful use of a ballpeen hammer should easily rectify the clearance issues
I know I keep several pounds in my tool chest for similar test fit clearance checking issues,
like checking piston to valve clearances

(I wish you were close locally, stuff like this can be fun,(modifying or building a new oil pan)


But it requires careful , and repeated hands on, physical contact/measuring test fitting etc.
of the oil pan in the actual car its to be used in, to verify the oil filter, oil pump, oil pump pick-up, exhaust system, windage screen, baffles and other components fit the modified oil pan correctly


s35415.jpg

 
Last edited:
Back
Top