Painting myself

DorianL

DorianL

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
Hmmm, gentlemen…

I am considering painting the car myself in my drive way.

It might be cheaper - and seems pretty straight forward actually The only thingI have to worry about, really, is contaminants falling on the car, I guess - or the weather turning south.

What thinks you?

The body shop want $1500 for the paint job.
 
Depending on the paint you use color sanding can fix runs and most occasional airborne contaminants. I've seen some awful paint jobs come out beautiful when sanded correctly and buffed out. You guys right here supplied links and info last year and I painted a Jeep outside - looked better than factory when I was done.

This is my paint gun http://www.eastwood.com/ew-concours-pai ... 2-tip.html

Ps, I set up a 12X12 patio tent - waited for a low humidity day with no more than 3-5 mph winds. Right now in my area is a really good time to paint, no pollen, temps are consistent. and parked on a supper large plastic tarp - spiked down
 
Spray painting really is not difficult, actually when i did my camaro hood it was the easiest part of the job. I setup my spray gun and first coat i spread was on the hood without any practice ever and it turned great. (its probably best to practice before)
I used the devilbiss finishline many people say they are the best bang for the buck and if you want better you have to pay alot more.
Hvlp is better but make sure your compressor is big enough if you want to spraypaint the car all at once.
If you have to use waterborne paint(personnal choice or local law/availability) make sure the spray gun you get is compatible!
As chrome bumper said, most paint can be fixed with some color sand and buffing.
Single stage metallic cannot be sanded/buffed, this mess the metallic.
Your probably going the basecoeat/clearcoat route for a better and more durable paint.
This can be fixed so long you dont get runs in the base coat if using metallic.
Its pretty simple, if you have metallic you cannot sand, but if you have a clearcoat over it you can buff/sand the clear.

I use a air valve with a pressure gauge right at the spray gun air input, this way am sure i have the correct pressure if using long air hose/normal quality fittings and also allow me to set it right at the gun.
Use a good water separator at the compressor and also air filter at the spray gun.
something like this at the spray gun:
m5Y-9_57dOw4w_ljIx5_Beg.jpg

Long copper tubing between the water separator and compressor increase the water separator efficiency.

Setting the spray gun is pretty easy, i think the link Grumpy posted may cover it, or google/youtube has great info but am still going to share the little i know.
I like to be about 8-9 inch away from the surface with about a 8-9 inch spray fan width.
Always re-check/re-set the pressure at the gun after you changed the fan width(changing fan width change your pressure).
And there is the setting for the needle/material, i usually spray for 1 second without moving(on the same spot) and adjusting so its not running (too much material)and it do not have poor coverage(not enough material).
Since your going metallic, you may search about orientation/drop coat, its pretty simple.

The flash time and time between basecoat clearcoat, all this info usually its on the instruction from your paint system and clearcoat product.
Oh, and buy a quality paint and clear coat ;)
BASF and PPG are what people are using here for paint.(i did use BASF Onyx HD)

Try to make a good spray booth(i used furnace filter), if you can get a good result without color sanding and buffing, your saving time.
If your working outside you can wet the floor, and i like to let the an run for about 15 min before i start painting, this remove dirt in the air.(i used square box fan)
For a quality spray booth people use the fan to pull the air out, if using a cheap spray booth like i did, its probably best to set the fan to push the air in instead.

edit:eek:h and do 50/50 overlap when spray painting.
 
THE QUESTION CAME UP ON A DIFFERENT WEB SITE,
AS TO THE LIKELY COST TO PAINT AN OLDER CORVETTE,
NOW THE POSTED INFO BELOW MAY PROVE USEFUL .
One reason I grabbed this and posted it is it brings up the fact that probably 2/3rds of the potential cost in painting a corvette and getting it to look decent is LABOR and getting the body correctly prepped!
most people that have never seen a really good paint job or top quality paint work, but even moderately good paint on a car can and usually does require several weeks of surface prep work.
Yes it takes good equipment and experience to do the job and get great results, but you also need to understand how to select paint, tools, solvents thinners spray guns etc.
yes I have painted about a dozen cars over the years, but I'm no ware near a pro painter, so if your one of the few rather skilled and experienced automotive paint and or body prep guys I'd sure appreciate some detailed tips on any and all aspects of corvette body prep and paint application, tools and tips

graphicjunki said:
This question is so subjective, it's crazy.
There are a LOT of variables to the equation.
1) Amount of TRUE bodywork that is involved - what is discovered and repaired during the process.
2) Shop rates of course
3) Material brand - some are definitely cheaper than others.
4) Paint code - I painted my old boss's '80 silver. He chose a color that was about $150 a quart @ 4:1 mix ratio. 4 parts paint to 1 part reducer, which means for every 4 ounces of paint, you want one ounce of reducer, if you want to figure out how much paint you need and end up with...
I am restoring a Jeep for a guy (still!) that the paint costs over $200 a PINT@ 4:1 mix ratio. Considering that the average vehicle takes roughly a gallon of sprayable paint by the time it's done...that can give you an indication of cost there.
5) Number of colors - In some cases, each color can literally equate to a completely separate paint job depending on the layout.
6) Custom/finish work - Extra requirements of the jobber.

Typically you want 7oz of paint per panel, PER COAT for proper coverage. That's a general rule...every MFG will have a rule to follow though, so consult the MSDS always! But use this kind of formula to get an idea of what your materials will cost. Don't forget to also factor the same amount of material in clear coat. ( I like 4 coats of clear, so when you cut and polish you know you have a SOLID 3 coats plus left over.)


So 5 panels, utilizing a paint that requires 3 coats to achieve proper coverage. That means you need 35 ounces of paint PER COAT. Best to factor 10% additional just in case.
So you need 105 +10% = 115.5 (116) ounzes of sprayable paint. So at a 4:1 ratio, you would need 96oz of actual paint before mix, and 24 ounces of reducer.
Oh but wait....you also need to factor the same for primer, times the number of times you spray and sand it all off doing body work. Then the same for sealer (1 time). But primer and sealer are also catalyzed, so you have to factor in the needed mix ratio amount of the catalyst.
Then also calculate the same for clear coat in the end.


Head spinning yet? That's just the cost of the materials too. You haven't even calculated in the labor/shop cost.

I know that for a simple paint job, I start at around $4000. But that's if the body truly is nice and straight, the owner pics a custom color from HOK, and I don't find any easter eggs.
Past that, it normally goes higher.

Also keep in mind that "mix" paint will generally run you more than if you buy something like House of Kolor custom color or PPG line. GENERALLY. Take the silver example above. A quart of Galazy Gray (metallic gray/silver) will run you approximately 40 a Quart, with a mix ratio of 2:1,yielding you 2 quarts of sprayable paint for $40 plus chems.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

now IM not a paint and body guy, but IVE done lots of that type of work, heres a few observations

(1) getting the body work darn near perfect, before you paint is REALLY important because well done paint will make every flaw in the surface finish stick out like a strobe light in a dark field at night, don,t rush the body prep. you better get it wet sanded to a minimum of a real smooth 600 grit finish before even thinking about primer and 800 grit is better!

(2) there is wet sanding paper that looks like screening for wet sanding that won,t clog up as fast

(3) talk to the wholesale auto body shop supply store guys if you can get access

(4) as with many auto repair skills having a knowledgeable mentor thats willing to show you what needs to be done and how to do it along with tips on avoiding mistakes and selecting tools is a huge help, to rapidly gaining those skills, so you might want to join a few corvette clubs and ask for help

(5) absolutely dry air from a compressor that can supply about 20 cfm is a huge positive help
related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/painting-in-a-small-shop.2675/#post-15414

https://painterscare.com/how-to-spray-paint-a-car-professionally-8-steps/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-for-paint-yourself-and-save.1405/#post-32080

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/does-anyone-know-where-too.7075/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rap-you-just-can-t-avoid-using-at-times.1139/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...y-brother-in-law-building-a-paint-booth.6966/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cost-to-paint-a-cobra-kit-car.5237/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...exiable-sanding-blocks-and-related-info.4610/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/painting-plastic-surfaces.1784/
 
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I painted a '66 about 3 years ago that had severe glasswork repairs. Just when you think you're done, you're not! After another primer coat Some transition edges still showed. Be careful as it is too easy to over sand. I spent just over $3,200 on and could have spent more.
 
Dorian, what will the body shop do/provide for $1500.00? Sounds waaay to cheap unless it's a same color scuff & shoot using production shop quality materials.

I've painted a number of cars outside over the years. Patience is key. Get the car prepped and all the materials ready then wait for the perfect day. Like others mentioned. Attention to detail prepping and post paint sanding & buffing can produce very good results.

I know this is an extreme example but I painted my bird in my backyard on a dirt driveway. 15 years later it still looked nice enough to be a cover and feature car in Popular Hot Rodding. When Johnny Hunkins was shooting it for the mag I told him I painted it on a dirt drive. He was amazed.



 
That's so cool you got your car on the cover, how did that come about?
 
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The Best and only way to stand out is to Go Racing.
Make You Tube Videos . Post them.
You must Win.
Must beat the Hellcats and SRT Viper T/A.
NOTHING LESS WILL DO.
 
Like the big vette man said " GO RACING!!"

My Car was shot and a full feature written for PHR at an NMCA drag race in Bradenton FL. It was shot (and used) by David Freiburger for Hot Rod at an ECTA Land Speed Race race in Maxton NC.

It's also been shot By Scott Morrow of NMCA, David Wallens at Grassroots Motorsports as well as some other magazine I forget. The thing is that just because they shoot the car doesn't mean your car is automatically gonna get in a mag. The pics have to be just right and hopefully no one else has a cooler car they're considering that month.

One of the nice 2 page shots printed Hot Rod.

 
congrats on getting your cars picture posted in the magazine, you obviously have both a above average car and a bit of luck getting that in the magazine!
 
rere High.8-Second Drag cars have become tbe Normal here in Illinois .

10-second Street Cars are the Normal with Hellcats.
And they are Doubling production in 2016. Somewhere around 20,000 Hellcats built and sold in 2016.

Stakes are High.
You Tube Races Won don't lie.

Pushing it to the Limit required .
 
87vette81big said:
The Best and only way to stand out is to Go Racing.
Make You Tube Videos . Post them.
You must Win.
Must beat the Hellcats and SRT Viper T/A.
NOTHING LESS WILL DO.
Click to expand...
The Young Guns on Digital Corvette Call Me T/A & The Maniac Mechanic .
 
NOT A TA said:
Like the big vette man said " GO RACING!!"

My Car was shot and a full feature written for PHR at an NMCA drag race in Bradenton FL. It was shot (and used) by David Freiburger for Hot Rod at an ECTA Land Speed Race race in Maxton NC.

It's also been shot By Scott Morrow of NMCA, David Wallens at Grassroots Motorsports as well as some other magazine I forget. The thing is that just because they shoot the car doesn't mean your car is automatically gonna get in a mag. The pics have to be just right and hopefully no one else has a cooler car they're considering that month.

One of the nice 2 page shots printed Hot Rod.

Click to expand...


That's awesome!
 
Thanks! That was back when magazines were still popular. The internet has put most of them out of business now.
 
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