Piston ring end gaps???

[NYH1]

I'm using Total Seal Rings, pt# CR3690-40. They're file fit rings. They have a 1/16, 1/16 and 3/16 ring package. Total Seal recommends the following ring end gaps-
Street, Strip, circle- bore x .0045" top ring, .0035" second ring, Min. .015" Oil Ring Rail.
Nitrous up to 150 HP- bore x .006" top ring, .0045" second ring, Min. .015 Oil Ring Rail.

I called Total Seal a while back and told them I might use a 75 to 100 HP max. nitrous system some time down the road. The tech I talked to said I could set the ring end gaps somewhere in between the above mentioned ring end gaps and should be fine.

I set my top ring end gap at .022" (.0054" x 4.040" bore) and my second ring end gap at .016" (.0039" x 4.040" bore).

My question is, do I set the oil ring rail gap at .015" or should I go a little bigger? I'd call Total Seal and ask them but I want to set the oil ring rail gaps tomorrow so I can do my finish cleaning and get ready to start assembling the motor.

Thanks, NYH1!

 

[grumpyvette]

you can open the oil ring wiper ring gaps, a bit larger than the suggested clearance for a stock engine,and it may or may not help, but its not likely to hurt anything if you just add a few thousands, clearance. but its generally not that critical because they are located far enough from the piston crown that the oil cooling tends to keep them reasonably stable, as long as your running an oil cooler or reasonable large capacity baffled oil pan that keeps the oil temps in the suggested, 215F-240F range
Id point out that measuring the combustion chamber seal at TDC , during a leak-down test, has the obvious advantage of easily duplicating the test results giving you a base line to compare the cylinders from, yet I'd also point out that you'll occasionally find the rings and valves do function correctly at TDC but the bore walls are not consistent in size and shape thus as the piston descends down the bore the rings tend to loose seal. cracks in the lower cylinder and out of round bores can in theory pass a leak down test done at TDC. Id also point out that an operating engine has combustion chamber pressure and heat levels that far exceed the test pressure and the dynamic movement of the piston and ring to bore seal in an operational engine can be happening repeatedly ,from 450 to 4000 times a minute, and thats 8- 66 times a second at a peak pressure frequently exceeding 600 psi,and temps easily approaching 450F or more clearances are far tighter than on a cold engine, which means the very reduced time factor, and far tighter clearance significantly reduce the volume of trapped compressed gasses getting out of the combustion chamber so a static test at 80psi-120 psi while helpful won,t tell the full story.

you might find some good related info here

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php ... ad&A_id=64

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2837

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

 

[NYH1]

I don't want to open them up anymore then I have to. If .015" is all that is required to function properly I'll check them to insure that they are in fact .015" and leave them at that. If they are smaller then .015" I'll open then up to .015".

I'm using a 5 quart Moroso pan. It has the baffle in the bottom of the pan to keep the oil in the sump. I'm also using THIS rear baffle that go's between the rear main cap and the oil pump. I fitted so the baffle and that main cap have the exact same opening, so there is no restriction. I'll be using a Amsoil oil filter, either a 1 or 2 quart filter, depending on ground clearance.

I was going to ask you about installing a oil cooler. I'd like to install one that uses the "sandwich type adapter" that go's in between the oil filter housing and the block so I can keep my oil filter in the factory location. I was also thinking about using a inline thermostat to control the oil temperature better. I've never used an oil cooler though so I don't know to much about them. What size lines, what type of lines and fittings ect.

 

[grumpyvette]

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187&p=6240&hilit=+oil+cooler#p6240

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1334&p=2910#p2910

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=296&p=539&hilit=+cooler+adapter#p539

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2093&p=5616&hilit=+control+cooler#p5616

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=150

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=252

viewtopic.php?f=57&t=176

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1280&p=2741&hilit=+tank+oil+drops#p2741

these links may help, your local hydraulic supply can get you custom fabricated 3/8" id lines designed for hot oil or transmission fluid rated to well over 120 PSI if you take careful measurements and show them or measure the connection fittings youll be using

 

[NYH1]

these links may help, your local hydraulic supply can get you custom fabricated 3/8" id lines designed for hot oil or transmission fluid rated to well over 120 PSI if you take careful measurements and show them or measure the connection fittings youll be using

I was thinking of making my own oil cooler lines using AN fittings with the correct hose. The cooler I'm looking at can be used as a oil cooler and a power steering cooler. It's two cooler in one. I plan on doing to same thing to my tranny's cooler lines. I want to put a "in line filter" on one of my tranny cooler lines.