I have a 406 SBC stock block, studded 2-bolt main block and want to know if it can/will hold up to the procharger making 1050HP? I am currently running a 275 shot of NOS on a 10.34/1 580HP NA motor. I know I will have to change the pistons and most likely the cam(Lunati Voodoo solid roller 242/248@.50, 578/585 lift, 110 lobe sep). Everything I read says to use a 12-14 degree lobe sep for the cam. All other parts are good. Forged Eagle crank, forged H-beam rods, AFR 210 eliminator heads, Victor Jr., SMS 750 Stage III DP Holley, 1-3/4" Hooker Super Comp full length headers, 3" exhaust. Will the block hold up for a mainly street driven car with an occassional blast down the 1320?
Procharger F1R on SBC
- Thread starter bler57
- Start date
The answer is no, don't do it!
Though you might get away with it for a while, it's a ticking time bomb. When it lets go, you will in all likelyhood lose all those good parts.
It boils down to this: can you afford to replace those parts if/when it does?
Oddly enough, the mechanical failures I have experienced never seem to be at the track. :roll:
I have a somewhat similar set up. I am running a D1-SC on a 400 SBC with AFR 210 eliminator heads, Holley's version of the Vic Jr., similar cam yet hydraulic roller... The short block was stock.
The car is 97% street driven with a couple of dashes down the track per year.
Anyway, I felt it was time for a rebuild to include forged crank, rods, pistons, etc. At the time I was making around 650 and knew I was on the edge.
I spoke to two machine shops looking for a quality, forged rotating assy - Ohio Crank and the Wolf-place. I asked them about my stock block. You see, on Procharger's website it says that a stock block can take up to 900 (and yer beyond that.) According to the machine shops, that high rating is because unlike a roots, the power comes on rather gradually -not suddenly. However, neither shop recommended going with a stock block. They independently agreed you could "get away with it" but that it would eventually come back when you least expect it to bite you on the gluteus maximus and cost you a whole lot more! Both shops recommended at the very least splayed caps on my 400 saying that I should be ok with a centrifugal and up to mid-700s.
Grumpy, I am sure, will tell you get an aftermarket block and you'll be worlds ahead in all areas and provide quite a few links as to why that is the most cost-effective option.
I also lurked around the yellowbullet forum and asked for some opinions there. Same: not a good idea!
If it weren't so damn $$$$ to get an aftermarket block over here, I would have done it. As it is, I had to save my nickels and dime for a while to afford the work on my block. I am comfortable with my combination of power, durability and reliability. Would I vastly prefer a Dart? Hell yes! And had I intended on going past 750, I would have that would have been a sine qua non and I would have delayed my rebuild a couple of years more.
HTH
D.
Though you might get away with it for a while, it's a ticking time bomb. When it lets go, you will in all likelyhood lose all those good parts.
It boils down to this: can you afford to replace those parts if/when it does?
Oddly enough, the mechanical failures I have experienced never seem to be at the track. :roll:
I have a somewhat similar set up. I am running a D1-SC on a 400 SBC with AFR 210 eliminator heads, Holley's version of the Vic Jr., similar cam yet hydraulic roller... The short block was stock.
The car is 97% street driven with a couple of dashes down the track per year.
Anyway, I felt it was time for a rebuild to include forged crank, rods, pistons, etc. At the time I was making around 650 and knew I was on the edge.
I spoke to two machine shops looking for a quality, forged rotating assy - Ohio Crank and the Wolf-place. I asked them about my stock block. You see, on Procharger's website it says that a stock block can take up to 900 (and yer beyond that.) According to the machine shops, that high rating is because unlike a roots, the power comes on rather gradually -not suddenly. However, neither shop recommended going with a stock block. They independently agreed you could "get away with it" but that it would eventually come back when you least expect it to bite you on the gluteus maximus and cost you a whole lot more! Both shops recommended at the very least splayed caps on my 400 saying that I should be ok with a centrifugal and up to mid-700s.
Grumpy, I am sure, will tell you get an aftermarket block and you'll be worlds ahead in all areas and provide quite a few links as to why that is the most cost-effective option.
I also lurked around the yellowbullet forum and asked for some opinions there. Same: not a good idea!
If it weren't so damn $$$$ to get an aftermarket block over here, I would have done it. As it is, I had to save my nickels and dime for a while to afford the work on my block. I am comfortable with my combination of power, durability and reliability. Would I vastly prefer a Dart? Hell yes! And had I intended on going past 750, I would have that would have been a sine qua non and I would have delayed my rebuild a couple of years more.
HTH
D.
the stock block even WITH splayed main caps, added, is a very poor choice as the O.E.M. stock production 350 block casting strength just is not there!
DART MAKES THE CORRECT BLOCK
TALK TO THE TECH GUYS BEFORE ORDERING
http://www.dartheads.com/products/engin ... all-blocks
related info
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2229
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1014&p=1861#p1861
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=1424&p=3149&hilit=sonic#p3149
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=976&p=1827#p1827
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204
here is a stock block that had the main webs pulled right out of the block with FAR LESS THAN the power level you are thinking about
heres a thin wall OEM casting that had the cylinder walls fail
its also mandatory to use a balanced forged rotating assembly
DART MAKES THE CORRECT BLOCK
TALK TO THE TECH GUYS BEFORE ORDERING
http://www.dartheads.com/products/engin ... all-blocks
related info
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2229
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1014&p=1861#p1861
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=1424&p=3149&hilit=sonic#p3149
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=976&p=1827#p1827
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204
here is a stock block that had the main webs pulled right out of the block with FAR LESS THAN the power level you are thinking about
heres a thin wall OEM casting that had the cylinder walls fail
its also mandatory to use a balanced forged rotating assembly