" HEY GRUMPY IM STARTING,
"project rescue the vette "
and need help
from the beginning. my bosses step father passed away in 07 and had a 1990 corvet that he bought in 02 with 54k miles it now has 59k and has been sitting in the fla sun since 07. i sent my brother to look at it and short of some sun faded red paint and it didnt start car is clean no body damage a one hole on the driver bolster and some ware in the carpet on the hump getting into the car the so i made them an 1800.00 offer and now i am a vette oner again.so heres the rest.
1.600.00 trip to fla to get car and trailer it home
2,new battery 108.00
3. car wash and compound clean interior
4. new fuel pump sock filter and fuel filter fuel presure gage 160.00 removed 6 gals old fuel and cleaned fuel tank added 4 gals new fuel
5. fuel rail pressure spot on 39lb
car started and ran rough like one plug or injector was stuck drove the car from drive to back work shop.75 yard or so parked it and went to auto part store for plugs, injector cleaner and oil change stuff. 80.00
6. added injector cleaner andchanged plugs ac delco platnum 4180 gap .35 car ran worse and would not take any throttle. i did pull one at a time so not to miss wire . gave up for the night
7. next day car wouldnt start acted as if there was no fuel. fuel pressure still 39lbs so i checked injector fuse both good . i pull the fuel pump fuse turned the key and the injectors dumped and pressure on rail fell. put fuse back in pressure 39lbs again at this time car started and tryed to run for about 15 sec. now car just pops as if it wants to start.
8. checked plugs for spark and they will give you a good jig if not care full check distributor battery voltage and it is good. out of day light so anyone have any ideals on what to check next? my thought is oil presuure sender and inside of distributor
sorry for long post "
It sounds like crap in the injectors, preventing fuel spray or allowing a constant fuel leak, to me from your limited info,Id start by replacing the fuel filter and removing the center from the fuel rail shrader valve, place a 6 foot long clear vinyl hose with a clamp over the valve, place the free end in a 5 gallon bucket and turn on the fuel pump several times to allow fuel and any crud in the fuel rails to flush , then replace the shrader valve insert and pull and clean the injectors
pull trouble codes, and check for vacuum, leaks, set the IAC and adjust the TPS sensor ,if the vettes been sitting the IAC may be jammed or stuck the TPS may have a rusted or corroded, or loose connector , post clear pictures of the spark plugs as a great deal of info can be learned, if it won,t run and it was running and nothing mechanical failed, it generally comes down to lack of fuel, air supply, needing a good spark, loss of compression, low voltage or things leaking, or bad sensors or loose electrical connections/loose grounds, but a corvette that sat unused out side for some time might have defective oxygen sensors or clogged catalytic converters so check your exhaust back pressure and for rusted or broken oxy sensors
Most TPI Injection is batch fire, when one injector electrically shorts it locks up all the others on that cylinder bank.
Ohm test each injector, 14 - 16 ohms. when you locate a bad injector leave it unplugged as a test, the engine should start & run on the remaining good cylinders. but youll need to replace that injector, running the engine like that for long causes damage, and be aware Injectors testing good while cold could can fail when hot.
PULL THE TROUBLE CODES
read the links and sub links , yes theres a ton of sub links and info, thats because theres a good deal of potential problems and youll want to narrow down the source logically,
finding problems like this in a corvette thats been sitting idle for months at a time is very common, a logical step bye step approach, that assumes EVERY COMPONENT MIGHT BE FAULTY UNTIL PROVEN TO BE WORKING CORRECTLY, will quickly find the problem, but most guys just almost randomly start swapping out parts without testing carefully, as to either the cause or the result and assuming its related to (X) while never checking (Y) or (Z) or using some logic in the process.
but don,t get discouraged I know guys get frustrated or overwhelmed or intimidated especially if you think your getting in well over your head into areas your totally unfamiliar with but the truth is its simply a learning process and except for the cost of parts theres darn little that the average home mechanic can,t correct on a C4 corvette, if you have a shop manual and can read thru the links I posted or search a bit in related links , if you have basic tools, a few things like multi meters, and vacuum gauges ans logically step thru each test. I,M not sure why it is but theres a huge reluctance on the part of many car owners to actually pull apart an engine or a sub assembly to verify function, some times this only requires time and a few gaskets at other times it may require testing or rarely swapping parts or the ability to read and understand schematic,s and read a multi meter or measure a part accurately, and yes it can be a full weekend project or in rare cases several weekends but again I,d point out its hardly "ADVANCED ROCKET SCIENCE" that the average home mechanic can,t do!
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=596
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=168
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2697
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=302&p=21503#p21503
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=495
viewtopic.php?f=80&t=728&p=8392&hilit=sensor+location#p8392
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1773&p=4506#p4506
"project rescue the vette "
and need help
from the beginning. my bosses step father passed away in 07 and had a 1990 corvet that he bought in 02 with 54k miles it now has 59k and has been sitting in the fla sun since 07. i sent my brother to look at it and short of some sun faded red paint and it didnt start car is clean no body damage a one hole on the driver bolster and some ware in the carpet on the hump getting into the car the so i made them an 1800.00 offer and now i am a vette oner again.so heres the rest.
1.600.00 trip to fla to get car and trailer it home
2,new battery 108.00
3. car wash and compound clean interior
4. new fuel pump sock filter and fuel filter fuel presure gage 160.00 removed 6 gals old fuel and cleaned fuel tank added 4 gals new fuel
5. fuel rail pressure spot on 39lb
car started and ran rough like one plug or injector was stuck drove the car from drive to back work shop.75 yard or so parked it and went to auto part store for plugs, injector cleaner and oil change stuff. 80.00
6. added injector cleaner andchanged plugs ac delco platnum 4180 gap .35 car ran worse and would not take any throttle. i did pull one at a time so not to miss wire . gave up for the night
7. next day car wouldnt start acted as if there was no fuel. fuel pressure still 39lbs so i checked injector fuse both good . i pull the fuel pump fuse turned the key and the injectors dumped and pressure on rail fell. put fuse back in pressure 39lbs again at this time car started and tryed to run for about 15 sec. now car just pops as if it wants to start.
8. checked plugs for spark and they will give you a good jig if not care full check distributor battery voltage and it is good. out of day light so anyone have any ideals on what to check next? my thought is oil presuure sender and inside of distributor
sorry for long post "
It sounds like crap in the injectors, preventing fuel spray or allowing a constant fuel leak, to me from your limited info,Id start by replacing the fuel filter and removing the center from the fuel rail shrader valve, place a 6 foot long clear vinyl hose with a clamp over the valve, place the free end in a 5 gallon bucket and turn on the fuel pump several times to allow fuel and any crud in the fuel rails to flush , then replace the shrader valve insert and pull and clean the injectors
pull trouble codes, and check for vacuum, leaks, set the IAC and adjust the TPS sensor ,if the vettes been sitting the IAC may be jammed or stuck the TPS may have a rusted or corroded, or loose connector , post clear pictures of the spark plugs as a great deal of info can be learned, if it won,t run and it was running and nothing mechanical failed, it generally comes down to lack of fuel, air supply, needing a good spark, loss of compression, low voltage or things leaking, or bad sensors or loose electrical connections/loose grounds, but a corvette that sat unused out side for some time might have defective oxygen sensors or clogged catalytic converters so check your exhaust back pressure and for rusted or broken oxy sensors
Most TPI Injection is batch fire, when one injector electrically shorts it locks up all the others on that cylinder bank.
Ohm test each injector, 14 - 16 ohms. when you locate a bad injector leave it unplugged as a test, the engine should start & run on the remaining good cylinders. but youll need to replace that injector, running the engine like that for long causes damage, and be aware Injectors testing good while cold could can fail when hot.
PULL THE TROUBLE CODES
read the links and sub links , yes theres a ton of sub links and info, thats because theres a good deal of potential problems and youll want to narrow down the source logically,
finding problems like this in a corvette thats been sitting idle for months at a time is very common, a logical step bye step approach, that assumes EVERY COMPONENT MIGHT BE FAULTY UNTIL PROVEN TO BE WORKING CORRECTLY, will quickly find the problem, but most guys just almost randomly start swapping out parts without testing carefully, as to either the cause or the result and assuming its related to (X) while never checking (Y) or (Z) or using some logic in the process.
but don,t get discouraged I know guys get frustrated or overwhelmed or intimidated especially if you think your getting in well over your head into areas your totally unfamiliar with but the truth is its simply a learning process and except for the cost of parts theres darn little that the average home mechanic can,t correct on a C4 corvette, if you have a shop manual and can read thru the links I posted or search a bit in related links , if you have basic tools, a few things like multi meters, and vacuum gauges ans logically step thru each test. I,M not sure why it is but theres a huge reluctance on the part of many car owners to actually pull apart an engine or a sub assembly to verify function, some times this only requires time and a few gaskets at other times it may require testing or rarely swapping parts or the ability to read and understand schematic,s and read a multi meter or measure a part accurately, and yes it can be a full weekend project or in rare cases several weekends but again I,d point out its hardly "ADVANCED ROCKET SCIENCE" that the average home mechanic can,t do!
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=596
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=168
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2697
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=302&p=21503#p21503
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=495
viewtopic.php?f=80&t=728&p=8392&hilit=sensor+location#p8392
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1773&p=4506#p4506
