removing rust from small parts with white vinegar

grumpyvette

grumpyvette

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FOUND THIS ON A DIFFERENT SITE, THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE USEFUL INFO FOR SOME GUYS

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cleaning-used-pistons.8745/#post-30913

"OK Guys, so you want to get rid of rust from your chromed bike part but you don’t like the idea of having dangerous chemicals around the house. Well here is a great way that is so safe and easy a 5yr old could do it! All you need is a container (tub) big enough to fit your rusty part in, a toothbrush (scrubbing brush, dish brush etc.) and enough White Vinegar to cover the part. I just use the cheap stuff from the supermarket. Place your part in the container of Vinegar and wait a day or two. Remove the part and brush off the rust, then wipe down with a rag, if your satisfied with the job, give it a spray over with a water displacer (WD40,CRC etc.) or dry with a hair dryer to stop the rust coming back straight away, if your not happy, drop it in for a bit longer. So there you go, it’s that easy smile

Try it yourself on an old rusty chromed part and I guarantee you will be amazed at how well it comes up!!!

Notes:
Don’t throw your vinegar away afterwards, it can be used over and over again.
It will go a rusty color after use.
It may help to add a tea spoon of Bi Carb Soda (Baking Soda) per Ltr of Vinegar to help speed up the process a little(caution, it will fizz up!!)
It may remove your decals if you use it on a part with stickers or decals
DON'T LEAVE FOR OVER 48hrs (it is possible to damage parts as it is acidic)
vin6.jpg


Here is a demonstration I done over the weekend.
vin1.jpg

Here is the Stem before being soaked in the Vinegar

vin2.jpg

Here is the stem after being cleaned!! Note, the top wasn’t submersed

vin3.jpg


before soaking 48 hours
vin4.jpg

after soaking 48 hours
vin5.jpg


theres also this product

"http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200409363_200409363?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive > Parts Washers&utm_campaign=Evapo-Rust&utm_content=334501&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=334501&gclid=COH58qyLz8oCFQokHwoddb8HCA

http://bcove.me/booa7qmd
 
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That does work I've done it before. Also to speed things up I use aluminum foil to wipe it down. For some reason the aluminum with vinegar on it kills rust quick.
 
In some circumstances if you put a ball of aluminum foil in with the vinegar it will remove the rust and leave a bit of coating on the steel depending on the alloy content of the steel. Don't ask me how, I'm no metallurgist, but we did this in high school lab about 100 years ago. :mrgreen:
 
72novaproject /steve posted this good info
ABOUT BARE METAL:
There are a number of ways to prepare bare steel prior to the application of your paint system. Please understand these are systems and this is the first step so it is important as a foundation. Pro’s tend to use etch primers or direct to metal filler primers due to the speed of the process. Time is money after all. As a hobbyist the following method is what I use. No method is necessarily better than the other and they are all correct and accepted methods. You can decide what works best for you.


PPG TWO STEP METAL TREATMENT TUTORIAL:
As hobbyist, we seldom have the time to complete a metal process (patch, weld grind) and spray protective primer expediently. PPG’s two step metal treatment will allow me to keep my car in bare steel for several months without it rusting. If a spot does re-rust I simply re-treat it until I am ready to spray expensive epoxy primer. Plus, PPG says it promotes “Superior Adhesion” combined with their DP line of epoxy primer which I like.

The example below is a side marker light I shaved on my 72. People come over and marvel at how flat it is and the first thing they do is rub it with their hands. Although it was treated when I finished it, the oil from their hands will make it start to rust again. I re-treated it and took some photos so I could document this process as it come up a lot in discussion.

The following procedure is an embellishment to the product instructions which should be read thoroughly prior to use. I have developed this procedure from using the products many times. To me, it makes the process faster and more efficient. I did the example below in approximately five minutes including product working times.

DX-579 Metal Cleaner:
Mechanically remove loose rust with scotch bright, sandpaper or a wire brush.
Spray DX-579 on the surface and work it in with a red scotch bright pad.
The P-Sheet recommends a mix ratio but I use it full strength at times.
Keep the surface wet with DX-579 until all the rust is gone.
Continue to scrub stubborn areas until clean.
This is an acid and it takes some time to work.
Rinse the surface with clear water while scrubbing it with a red scotch bright pad.
The DX-579 is a little slimy so the scrubbing helps ensure it is all gone.
Dry the part with paper towels and blow it dry with compressed air.

DX-520 Metal Conditioner:
After drying the part you may see orange (rust) streaks in the metal.
The DX-520 will remove the light rust streaks.
Spray DX-520 on the surface and scrub it in with a fresh scotch bright pad.
Just work it in initially and then put the scotch bright down for good.
Keep the surface wet with DX-520 until you see it turn a dull gray.
DX-520 deposits a microscopic zinc phosphate coating that builds up on the surface.
The longer you leave it on the darker it will get with the coating.
The coating acts as a sacrificial anode to prevent rust similar to galvanizing.
Don’t continue to scrub with scotch bright or you will remove the coating.
Rinse the part with sheeting clear water to remove the DX-520.
Immediately dry the part with a paper towel and blow dry.
Try not to touch the part with your bare hands after treating.

TIPS FOR USE:
With light surface rust you can skip the DX-579 step. The DX-520 will remove it.
You still need to clean the treated surface with wax and grease remover prior to primer.
The products are water soluble and can be applied with a pump spray bottle.
After 24 hours you should re-treat with DX-520 only prior to priming.
I don’t wear gloves but you probably should with the DX-579.
Oddly, I found the DX-579 will remove mill scale.

PHOTOS:

Before the final welding and metal finishing. Note the date stamp.
rustq1.jpg

After several months with people touching it. Note the date stamp.
rustq2.jpg

After the DX-579, dry and ready for DX-520.
rustq3.jpg

Surface is wet with DX-520 as it deposits zinc phosphate. It is a little sudsy (surfactant quality) so it stays wet and rinses off easily. Note how the acid shows the difference in the weld metal and parent metal.
rustq4.jpg


Clean and dry, the surface will now remain rust free as I work on other areas of the car.
rustq5.jpg

These spray bottles are at Home Depot and work well for application. And before you ask, no, that is not my FORD in the back ground.

This is a much larger area. In fact I did the entire trunk area all at one time after tubing my car. It took me about 20 minutes.
rustq6.jpg

http://www.bapspaint.com/docs/psheets/P ... /P-226.pdf
 
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