I bought a 350 short block off craigslist for $100. I'm slowly taking it apart and assessing things.
One of the areas of concern is the crank. So the shortblock had been rebuilt at some point before. It's already 30 over and at least the rod journals are ground 10 under. The number #1 main bearing looks pretty trashed, but the crank doesn't appear worse for the wear. The most troubling issue is the crank snout. It appears to have been drilled out from 7/16-20 to 9/16-12. The threads do not look great and the angle is not straight. There's also a noticeable lip where the harmonic balancer ended.
So the idea for this build is I want to build some torquey grunt to push our 85 caprice around, and to have fun assembling my first engine. The engine won't see more than 2500 for sustained periods, highway cruise will be about 1500. A new cast crank is only $200 plus the cost of balancing. Is there any hope of fixing the crank I have or should I just replace it?
Crank threads
#1 Main bearing
personally this is a total non-question, the risk vs cost savings say, even scream...throw that crankshaft in the local trash can.
why take the chance on a crank that has both non-standard journals,
that were obviously cut undersized too allow over size bearings as a previous repair,
and a crank of un-known history, that obviously has been ,
subjected to who knows how much stress, probably for decades.
cranks are fairly cheap, any large local machine shop will have both cast and forged 350 and 383 cranks either on the shelf or available on short order,
along with much stronger than stock connecting rods and its certainly going to be a whole lot cheaper to purchase and install a new crank now ,
vs repair the damage if that suspect crank breaks or throws a well stressed used rod even if they are reconditioned, rod .
and because your in the engine re-build process,
you have the choice and the motivation too upgrade to a 3.75: stroke version to build a 383.
that extra 1/4"in stroke, the added displacement that results, is worth an easy 35-40 additional ft lbs of torque and 35-45 hp.
read the links it will save you a great deal of problems,
a few days spent reading related and useful,
linked info,
will surely save you hundreds of dollars and weeks,
of wasted effort and problems from assembling the wrong components,
and avoid making bad and expensive wrong choices.
(yes it will take you a good deal of time as theres dozens of sub-links,
but in the long run its going to be far faster and easier)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ould-you-build-a-350-or-a-383-sbc-combo.8310/
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rotating-assembies/rotating-assembly-product-search/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-information-overload.11137/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-26314
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-70311
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-info.38/page-2#post-61958
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-for-in-a-good-engine-combo.9930/#post-46399
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-basic-350-build.8929/#post-31759
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rotating-assembly-bearings.9527/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-con-rods-would-you-buy.942/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-to-match-the-cam-specs.11764/#post-55571
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...trong-will-a-scat-rotating-assembly-be.11495/
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