http://www.ecklers.com/search.asp?actio ... chHistory=
http://www.ecklers.com/search.asp?actio ... chHistory=
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_i ... pt_id=1448
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5 ... %5Fid=1141
Now maybe IM just paranoid but I like to change the door locks, and ignition locks when I buy a used corvette, because I don,t want unknown key that fit my car in un-known hands, the trouble with the C3 doors is the lock is mounted in flimsy fiberglass, now theres no reason it has to be that easy to punch out or you might have a screwed up mount hole where the locks mot firmly mounted,that can be fixed!
if the door handle, or door panels iare worn or coroaded or stained its a good time to replace those also!
BEFORE you start order and wait to recieve NEW locks clips and LINKAGE as they will frequently be bent, rusted, missing or broken, look closely at how thier assembled if they still are because its not a total no brainer,
because theres NOTHING preventing you from finding some 16-14 ga galvanized sheet steel at home depot in the roofing section and fabricating a lock backing plate with a drill press and dremel tool and fiber glassing it in as a lock backer inside the door to significantly strengthen the locks grip on the door, Ive done it frequently and some J&B weld epoxy can be used sparingly on the side of the backing plate you fabricate thats facing outwards ,on the inside surface that you mount inside the door to firmly secure the plate,remember the door contours so your limited to about a 1.5"x 2" plate size, as a backing plate, and heres a few tips,
a small bolt with two fender washers can be used as a temporary clamp, with the two washers placed both outside the door and behind the backing plate with a bolt thru the lock hole will clamp it untill its dried over night, then remove the bolt/washers etc. and fiberglass behind and around the plate to make a SOLID lock support in the door, keep it fairly thin so theres no clearance issues with the lock or linkage, but even if its reasonably thin its significantly stronger than the 1/8" of glass that held it from the factory.
don,t replace the door panel untill your sure door lock and latch is operating correctly
OIL THE DARN LOCK WHEN YOUR DONE WITH THE INSTALL AND TEST THE KEYS, IT DOES WONDERS FOR HOW SMOOTH IT OPPERATES
http://www.ecklers.com/search.asp?actio ... chHistory=
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_i ... pt_id=1448
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5 ... %5Fid=1141
Now maybe IM just paranoid but I like to change the door locks, and ignition locks when I buy a used corvette, because I don,t want unknown key that fit my car in un-known hands, the trouble with the C3 doors is the lock is mounted in flimsy fiberglass, now theres no reason it has to be that easy to punch out or you might have a screwed up mount hole where the locks mot firmly mounted,that can be fixed!
if the door handle, or door panels iare worn or coroaded or stained its a good time to replace those also!
BEFORE you start order and wait to recieve NEW locks clips and LINKAGE as they will frequently be bent, rusted, missing or broken, look closely at how thier assembled if they still are because its not a total no brainer,
because theres NOTHING preventing you from finding some 16-14 ga galvanized sheet steel at home depot in the roofing section and fabricating a lock backing plate with a drill press and dremel tool and fiber glassing it in as a lock backer inside the door to significantly strengthen the locks grip on the door, Ive done it frequently and some J&B weld epoxy can be used sparingly on the side of the backing plate you fabricate thats facing outwards ,on the inside surface that you mount inside the door to firmly secure the plate,remember the door contours so your limited to about a 1.5"x 2" plate size, as a backing plate, and heres a few tips,
a small bolt with two fender washers can be used as a temporary clamp, with the two washers placed both outside the door and behind the backing plate with a bolt thru the lock hole will clamp it untill its dried over night, then remove the bolt/washers etc. and fiberglass behind and around the plate to make a SOLID lock support in the door, keep it fairly thin so theres no clearance issues with the lock or linkage, but even if its reasonably thin its significantly stronger than the 1/8" of glass that held it from the factory.
don,t replace the door panel untill your sure door lock and latch is operating correctly
OIL THE DARN LOCK WHEN YOUR DONE WITH THE INSTALL AND TEST THE KEYS, IT DOES WONDERS FOR HOW SMOOTH IT OPPERATES