Replacing Front hub and bearing assemble

chromebumpers

chromebumpers

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
On the Silverado 4X4. It’s the original factory hub still on the truck and of course with thread lock on the bolts and a bear to get the 2 large bolts to budge. I’m worried if I move up to 3/4” drive to get leverage I will snap the bolts that hold the caliper frame to the hub flange. Will applying heat help get those bolts lose?
suggestions?
 
yes generally applying heat with something like a propane torch or a heat gun, for a minimum of several minutes time,
will result in the lock tite gel loosening
obviously some types respond faster as they are designed to lose grip with heat applied faster
I assume your aware there is loctite solvent?

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No, well, I thought it was for clean up of threads when removing bolts with LocTite. The expanding/collapsing boot on the caliber bolts is really close, same for the CV boot, both are really close and could melt or catch fire from the torch. If If doubled up some aluminum foil and wrapped or shielded the rubber is that enough protection?

Up date: I got one bolt out, one to go before I start on the 4 smaller bolts on the backside that holds the hub. Then the last one is the big nut in the front (center).
Can you purchase those little accordion type rubber boots for the caliper? I attempted to pull on them and no go, are they made to be replaceable? I don’t want to add to the situation.

Just for that last bolt I have to run out to the hardware store and hopefully find a section of pipe that will fit over the non ratchet socket bar for extended leverage.

ps, my impact gun appears too weak. Anybody see electric or battery impacts that are high torque And wont break the bank?
 
Rich they sell a heat sink for brazing AC units its a paste that you spread the gell around what you want to keep cool RE Michele sells it or whatever HVAC supply house local to you
 
Here is something I didn’t think about. About the Axle nut (32mm) in the center of the hub I need to remove, I have a 32 mm socket but in 3/4“ drive, impact gun is 1/2” and I don’t have any adapter. If I try to remove the nut the hub turns. How can I stop the hub from turning if I can’t use an impact gun?
 
Just bought a Dewalt 20 volt 3/4” drive with 1200 ft lbs of breakout torque. It was $360 at Tractor Supply. No one but Harbor Freight sells air tools at a bricks and mortar store aside from maybe Advance Auto or Auto Zone (man I miss Sears Tool Stores!) and I doubt what they have is much good for something that has to be torqued to 170 + inch lbs.

The other Dewalt(s) were 1/2” drive, only one of them was high torque with 1200 ft lbs ($279) and the other was 750 lbs for ($199)

Do you think 1200 ft lbs is strong enough?

Oh, I did try wedging an iron prybar in the cooling fins letting it contact the floor but I lose it after not much pressure trying to turn the nut. I got the impact gun t
 
I could swear there was a very recent post about impact guns but I can’t find it now. ???
 
Ok, the impact gun made removing this bolts easy, the center axle nut real easy. After all that I figured out I just could have wedged my pry bar on 2 studs and a long breaker bar on the center nut but I just don’t have the room. My back was up against the toolbox, too tight to maneuver where the lift is.

Now the last problem - I can’t get the hub off! All the bolts are out, nothing left, just rust! Yes, I did knock back the CV axle - it’s loose and not holding on to the hub. I’ve been bashing the hell out of the back of the hub, I can’t even see a crack between the hub and the front axle assembly.

The only thing I can think of is using rust breaker sprays. The CV hub is loose so a puller won’t do anything. Use a 20lb sledge? I tried a cold chisel - nothing! And I have yet to feel the old bearing was bad so I believe I was duped!
 
I would guess you professional guys that need power impact drivers or power socket wrenches know a bit more of what I refer to as Hog ring Vs. Detent pin anvils on these tools. I never paid attention until recently when I pinched my finger pushing on a socket and having to use a flathead or a pin to take off that socket on my new Dewalt impact. I should have looked for the hog ring anvil version, to me it’s easier. I guess if I only used one or two sizes but constantly switching socket sizes, well . . . .
I have to wonder how many actually know there is a choice and what it means. Do you have a preference or you just don’t care?
 
I have a set of cold chisels and I have an old Porter Cable electric impact hammer, the kind that looks like a Sawzall reciprocating saw. Used in the past for masonry demolition, I’m sure it doesn’t have nearly the power that an air hammer type of chisel would have. That’s about it right now. I have sprayed the hell out of the back of the hub for a couple hours, now I’m going back to smash it with my mini Thor hammer - maybe use that electric chisel too
 
I have stop and keep looking for any bolts I missed but I didn’t! How can just rust hold that hub? I’m bashing the hell out of this hub. This hub is just a flat surface on the back with a sheet metal dust shield in between. I applied a map gas torch to it for about 5 min too.
 
Go to Harbor Freight and get an air chisel and hammer they are cheap and I've had good luck with their air tools
 
I dont know the year of your truck, but i replaced the hubs on my 2000 4x4 Suburban 1500 and it was exactly as you describe, it was bashing with every bashing tool, heating, wedging and cycles of penetrating fluid for a couple of days before it budged, in pieces, I think the aluminum knuckle and steel hub reacts and corrode insane.
 
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