Sanding top layer of original paint.

chromebumpers

chromebumpers

solid fixture here in the forum
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As you may remember I have a true barn-find that has been under hay and dust for 26 years. I believe this is the original paint job. The top flat areas have peeling paint and micro fine cracks. I want to spruce up the curb appeal a bit but I don't want it to look like a hack job.
1). What are the grades of sand paper from start to end?

2). Regular primer or sandable/build-up type?

3). Should I use a sealer for a top coat or paint the primer white?
 

Wait a minute...... are we re-painting the vehicle or just trying to improve what's there ???

 
I'm tempted at times to block sand, tape and remove everything and take this car to Maco but I'm afraid I'll never get my money back on this car.
I tend to over think some situations and this project is one of those times. Elaborating on this issue, I have this barn-find that I bought for $5,800, which i thought was a good price for an unmolested, all original chrome bumper vette. I don't want the car because no A/C, no tilt/tel steering column and I already have a white 71 (see Avatar).
My thoughts for selling and limiting troubles -

No matter what price I put on this car I'll be beat down on the price and the excuses will be mostly about mechanical soundness and things unknown. I thought that since I have a full size car lift it makes an easier time doing somethings others would dread doing. By making this a car you can drive home and feel secure will help sell the car. I've done just about anything you can think of mechanically under the hood and under the car to make it a safe driver. Who ever buys this car only has to invest in a paint job, chrome pieces and weather stripping (interior is good). With this in mind, when the new owner spends money on repairs it's instantly seen/instant gratification all the while it's a daily driver with little down time and all in your driveway work.
About now I have $2000 extra into this car and I am hoping I can get $9,500. Here is my fear, potential buyers will be put off by the bad paint and wont hear about the work that's in the car. I think this car is a sweet deal simply because all the work has been photo and receipt documented, 2 owner car AND you can examine this car up on a lift right here. This should wipe -out any fears of unknown problems - how often do you have this without taking the car to a mechanic's garage and with a charge.?

I was thinking of sanding out the bad looking areas and painting with white primer feathering everything. I'm afraid of what the max price is for this car.
 
chromebumpers said:
As you may remember I have a true barn-find that has been under hay and dust for 26 years. I believe this is the original paint job. The top flat areas have peeling paint and micro fine cracks. I want to spruce up the curb appeal a bit but I don't want it to look like a hack job.
1). What are the grades of sand paper from start to end?

2). Regular primer or sandable/build-up type?

3). Should I use a sealer for a top coat or paint the primer white?
Click to expand...
Well(on my camaro hood i did about 4 month ago), i use 80 grit for removing paint and for body filler
150 grit also work for removing paint.
I used some epoxy primer first i used 150g for block sanding/guide coating the primer and sometime for body filler.
Then i used some high build 2k primer for the next few coat and on the last coat of primer i sand with 220 (instead of 150g)then 400 then 500-600 grit especially since its a metallic paint, stopping at 220 could work for solid color.
I used 2 coat of waterborne paint and 2 coat of clear.
I had some small dirt in the clearcoat so 1 week later i wet sanded the clear with 2000 grit and did a compound(used meguiars ultimate compound)
here is the result after everything has been done.

Sealer usually is used if your painting over plastics or non compatible substrat(some waterborne type paint).

You can read here for more details on what i have done, it was my first time me too
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=6649&start=20
DSCN0660.jpg
 
Near me is a shop called Thortons Collision. They used to be about 5K to repaint a Corvette, then they sold a car on Barrett/Jackson Auction and now they're famous. Now they charge $26K to paint a 'vette - is that nuts or what?
 
chromebumpers said:
Now they charge $26K to paint a 'vette - is that nuts or what?
Click to expand...

Only if you are the one paying, now if your the one getting the money, that
might be up for discussion. :lol: :p

 
Indycars said:
chromebumpers said:
Now they charge $26K to paint a 'vette - is that nuts or what?
Click to expand...

Only if you are the one paying, now if your the one getting the money, that
might be up for discussion. :lol: :p

Click to expand...
:lol: yes they are nut, never i would pay 26K$ for a paint job, probably not 5000$ except if its a fancy paint job with incredible result.

I should try and sell my camaro at Barrett/Jackson Auction, so i could make a living just by painting 2 car a years(joke).
 
mathd said:
I should try and sell my camaro at Barrett/Jackson Auction, so i could make a living just by painting 2 car a years(joke).
Click to expand...

Since you probably got 10% of your information here on the forum, I'm thinking that
Grumpy is going to want a 10% ($2600/paint job) cut off the top for himself. :D :p

 
Indycars said:
mathd said:
I should try and sell my camaro at Barrett/Jackson Auction, so i could make a living just by painting 2 car a years(joke).
Click to expand...

Since you probably got 10% of your information here on the forum, I'm thinking that
Grumpy is going to want a 10% ($2600/paint job) cut off the top for himself. :D :p

Click to expand...


no! Im reasonable, I just want you to prefect the skills, required,
post the results, in detailed clear pictures,
and once your good at the job,post as much detailed info as you can to help others on this site!
and it sure would be nice if you ... bring a few cases of decent beer when you come over and help me paint my corvette
 
haha, i was just joking all i did paint on that car is the hood so i cannot take credit for the whole paint job and i still have ALOT to learn about painting... just got the basic.

Am not ready for painting a whole classic car that is not my own(i dont mind painting mine, if i screw up i will be doing all the work again and paying for the material/my error) i could bring the beer and keep talking while he is doing the work so i can look like i know my stuff .. until i start helping and asking questions :lol:
Just joking am not like this.
 
chromebumpers said:
As you may remember I have a true barn-find that has been under hay and dust for 26 years. I believe this is the original paint job. The top flat areas have peeling paint and micro fine cracks. I want to spruce up the curb appeal a bit but I don't want it to look like a hack job.
1). What are the grades of sand paper from start to end?

2). Regular primer or sandable/build-up type?

3). Should I use a sealer for a top coat or paint the primer white?
Click to expand...

I'm not an expert...Just a amateur that's asked many questions...Got numerous different opinions...The steps/primer usages I've decided to use are:

1. If I have to start out with (meaning strip existing paint) bare metal, I use a self-etching primer.

2. If the metal is smooth, and I've used the above primer, then I use primer sealer.

3. If the metal has a lot of pitting after stripping existing paint, I useg self-etching primer, followed by a high build primer to level things out, then primer sealer.

4. I never remove perfectly good paint...I just use the same primer sealer (matching color) over primer and good, existing paint.

Be sure to consider what color of final primer you use...it can change the final color coat appearance, regardless of what some people might say!!! Under dark colors, I use a dark primer, under light colors I prefer to use white or light grey (gray)...But be sure to use the same color under all surfaces to be painted, or you will see differences, especially if you use two very different color primers on the same panel.
 
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