Some more fluid questions

S

Stick the Corners

Active Member
While my 40k mile 84 C4 is still on Jack stands, looking at other fluid replacements.

Brake system:
  1. Regarding the brake system, is replacement with Dot 4 fluid, that is not silicone based, the proper fluid to use?
  2. When bleeding the rear calipers before dealing with the front in a complete fluid exchange, is jacking up the front higher needed, as mentioned in the shop manual?
  3. Also, the shop manual details that left rear caliper, right rear, front left, front right is the proper order which is not the generic sequence where the passenger sides are usually addressed first with the rear and front respectively.
  4. While manually bleeding of each caliper in sequence is done after pumping the brakes and holding pedal pressure while the bleeder is opened and closed into a brake fluid immersed tube in a jar, is there an advantage to using a hand held vacuum kit like this …https://www.amazon.com/Beduan-Piece...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863993108774&psc=1.. , especially if trying to do the process alone without assistance?

Power steering

I’m not sure if there is power steering seepage around my pump, but barring pump replacement or repair, is the fluid in the reservoir just sucked out using a hand pump before exchange with new?
 
you'll never get all the power steering fluid out that way
,as the lines and power steering hydraulic cylinder,
retain some fluid, even after the reservoirs drained
but if the pumps functional, (not excessively worn or damaged internally and the lines are good,)
that will usually be enough new added fluid ,once you've added fresh P.S. fluid
 
Last edited:
Stick the Corners said:
Regarding the brake system, is replacement with Dot 4 fluid, that is not silicone based, the proper fluid to use?
Click to expand...
Dot 4 will work without any problems and is compatible with every other fluid except 5.0 The only fluid that's better would be the DOT 5.1 and is also compatible with all the others except 5.0 again.

Brakes and Brakes Relevant Accessories

When it comes to the safety of your vehicle, the braking system plays a crucial role.
brakeshub.com brakeshub.com

Stick the Corners said:
Also, the shop manual details that left rear caliper, right rear, front left, front right is the proper order which is not the generic sequence where the passenger sides are usually addressed first with the rear and front respectively.
Click to expand...
It's not a deal breaker, as long as you get all the air out. Bottom line is start with the longest line and work your way back to the shortest line. Maybe they routed the lines such that they don't take the typical path.

Stick the Corners said:
While manually bleeding of each caliper in sequence is done after pumping the brakes and holding pedal pressure while the bleeder is opened and closed into a brake fluid immersed tube in a jar, is there an advantage to using a hand held vacuum kit like this …https://www.amazon.com/Beduan-Piece...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863993108774&psc=1.. , especially if trying to do the process alone without assistance?
Click to expand...
It's going to make it easier for one person, unless it's a problem system it should be no different in the end when it comes to function.
.
 
I took a spare master cylinder cap and drilled a hole in it and put a tire valve stem in it so i could bleed the brakes by my self, but dont put too much pressure in it, especially if its a plastic reservoir. I used like 10-20 psi on my Suburban.
 
Thunderbolt said:
I took a spare master cylinder cap and drilled a hole in it and put a tire valve stem in it so i could bleed the brakes by my self, but dont put too much pressure in it, especially if its a plastic reservoir. I used like 10-20 psi on my Suburban.
Click to expand...
Interesting. So, instead of creating a vacuum at the end of the line, like the kit I referenced, you are pressurizing the master cylinder reservoir. I could see connecting my bicycle hand pump to the shraeder valve to 10-20 psi, making sure the reservoir is amply filled with fluid, and just bleeding out each caliper in turn without allowing the master reservoir to run too low. So, if I’m understanding correctly, will this eliminate the need to pump the brake pedal, or will I still need to pump the pedal to allow the old fluid out of the lines for complete fluid exchange before each caliper bleeding ?
 
Indycars said:
Dot 4 will work without any problems and is compatible with every other fluid except 5.0 The only fluid that's better would be the DOT 5.1 and is also compatible with all the others except 5.0 again.
Click to expand...
Okay, totally ignorant here, but was speaking to some folks who did some club racing. They said that tech inspection required DOT 4. So then, can I surmise that that is the minimal standard, and that DOT 5.1 is more than acceptable?
 
No pedal work, but i used my shop compressor, an adjustable pressure regulator, and my tire inflator locked with a zip tie in fill position hooked up to the stem without the valve in the stem. Its easy to get way more pressure than needed!
 
Stick the Corners said:
So then, can I surmise that that is the minimal standard, and that DOT 5.1 is more than acceptable?
Click to expand...
Yes

The difference in all these brake fluids that is of most interest is the boiling point. When brake fluid boils, you don't have braking. The water turns to a vapor, essentially the same as air in the system. And brake fluid loves moisture.

NOTE: DOT 5.0 will not mix with any other fluid, it's silicone based.

1699378203308.png

.
 
wow! Ive been using the old , bleed the brakes system for five decades,where you have to listen to the verbal abuse,,,you get the wife to sit in the car.., then use that old fashion,"tell the old fashion,
"wife to depress the brake petal and hold it down until you say, and repeat,
while you go to each caliper and open and close the bleeder valve tried and true system"

now I recently found these little clear canisters deals (medical vacuum fluid containers) with taps for clear plastic hose that when used with a vacuum pump gun make bleeding the air, out of a hydraulic clutch or brake lines far easier and far less messy,
( a 6 ft section of clear vinyl hose over the bleed valve and some practice helps)
suction-canister-hi-flow-1200-ml-1200-cc-with-self-sealing-lid-sold-as-each-by-bemis-484410-for-a-discount-by-a-full-case-48-cs-click-here-3.gif
you simply crack the bleed valve, on the brake caliper or clutch slave cylinder, then slip a clear plastic hose that fits tightly on the bleed valve nipple
(usually 1/4" or 5/16" plastic hose)between the brake slave cylinder or calipers and route one end to the canister, route a second plastic tube to your vacuum gun and pour brake fluid into the master cylinder while pumping the gun, the old fluid collects in the canister.
the great thing hear is it makes it a one man job and you can use longer plastic hose so you can stand next too the master cylinder to make sure its never going low on fluid, as you keep it topped off, while you pump out the old brake or hydraulic fluid

http://www.aaawholesalecompany.com/bem-484410-pk.html
NOTICE THEY COME 12 to a carton and cost about $40 a dozen so get two buddies to split the cost
medical supplys can be useful bleeding brakes
vacbra.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-va ... 39522.html



http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp#

C4 Brakes And Trouble Shooting Them

as always think logically and test, start by filling the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes, and it sure helps to have a second person helping, and keeping the master cylinder reservoir filled it also helps to work safely, use a lift or jack stands read the links...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
vettejack1.jpg

btw if you care to get creative and have two buddies, one to pump the brake petal, and one to keep the master cylinder full, of new brake fluid while you bleed the brake calipers, if you have that medical collection container and maybe 25 feet of that cheap vinyl tubing , you can let the engine idle , to provide suction/vacuum on that medical fluid collection container from a small barbed vacuum connection on the carb, if the cars up on jack stands with all four wheels off the floor and removed for easy caliper access , thus opening the bleed valve allows a fairly rapid and constant flow of brake fluid, into that container.
 
Last edited:
Grumpy said:
wow! Ive been using the old , bleed the brakes system for five decades,where you have to listen to the verbal abuse,,,you get the wife to sit in the car.., then use that old fashion,"tell the old fashion,
"wife to depress the brake petal and hold it down until you say, and repeat,
while you go to each caliper and open and close the bleeder valve tried and true system"

now I recently found these little clear canisters deals (medical vacuum fluid containers) with taps for clear plastic hose that when used with a vacuum pump gun make bleeding the air, out of a hydraulic clutch or brake lines far easier and far less messy,
( a 6 ft section of clear vinyl hose over the bleed valve and some practice helps)
suction-canister-hi-flow-1200-ml-1200-cc-with-self-sealing-lid-sold-as-each-by-bemis-484410-for-a-discount-by-a-full-case-48-cs-click-here-3.gif
you simply crack the bleed valve, on the brake caliper or clutch slave cylinder, then slip a clear plastic hose that fits tightly on the bleed valve nipple
(usually 1/4" or 5/16" plastic hose)between the brake slave cylinder or calipers and route one end to the canister, route a second plastic tube to your vacuum gun and pour brake fluid into the master cylinder while pumping the gun, the old fluid collects in the canister.
the great thing hear is it makes it a one man job and you can use longer plastic hose so you can stand next too the master cylinder to make sure its never going low on fluid, as you keep it topped off, while you pump out the old brake or hydraulic fluid

http://www.aaawholesalecompany.com/bem-484410-pk.html
NOTICE THEY COME 12 to a carton and cost about $40 a dozen so get two buddies to split the cost
medical supplys can be useful bleeding brakes
vacbra.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-va ... 39522.html



http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp#

C4 Brakes And Trouble Shooting Them

as always think logically and test, start by filling the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes, and it sure helps to have a second person helping, and keeping the master cylinder reservoir filled it also helps to work safely, use a lift or jack stands read the links...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
vettejack1.jpg

btw if you care to get creative and have two buddies, one to pump the brake petal, and one to keep the master cylinder full, of new brake fluid while you bleed the brake calipers, if you have that medical collection container and maybe 25 feet of that cheap vinyl tubing , you can let the engine idle , to provide suction/vacuum on that medical fluid collection container from a small barbed vacuum connection on the carb, if the cars up on jack stands with all four wheels off the floor and removed for easy caliper access , thus opening the bleed valve allows a fairly rapid and constant flow of brake fluid, into that container.
Click to expand...
I used the vacuum tool and kit with canister and hoses from HF for solo bleeding and found this worked well for the left front caliper, less so for the left rear, and poorly for both the right front and rear. I had to throw in the towel and recruit family members to pump/bleed the brakes the old fashioned way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top