Sprint car crank on the street?

mtrhead

Member
I just noticed that my crank is not normal in the rear.

My question is…my ultralight Crower crank only has 4 bolts holes in the rear and 99.9% of all other Chevy cranks have 6. My crank came from the sprint car world where they use direct drive couplers, these couplers are nothing more than a companion flange to the crankshaft. The theory of flange joints, such as a flywheel to the end of the crank, is that friction, not bolts, hold the rotation forces at bay so they don't impact the bolts in shear. At least that's what I remember in school. However the direct drive couplers in spring cars are small in diameter to they don't present any forces in other directions that could work against the bolts like a flywheel could if it was perfect, at least that is what I'm thinking.

I want to run this crank on the street with a 168tooth flywheel. I did a search and couldn't find anyone doing this. I obviously would use the best bolts I can find which are ARP pro-series and torque them properly. My Sprint car buddies say they know some circle track guys used these "used" up sprint car cranks but they are usually automatics.

Have you ever done this or heard of these cranks being used on the street in a stick? The local crankshaft shop, Moldex, says if I want they can weld two bosses to give me 6 if that’s what I want.
 
well you've got me there in that's one option Ive never dealt with,
I can,t see any reason why it won,t work but please let us know your progress
 
Thank you. I just noticed Callies top of the line Magnum XL crankshaft also comes in 4 bolt flange

http://www.callies.com/crankshafts/magnumxl1.htm

I'm sure if everything is torqued properly it should be ok for a 500hp 3500lb street car considering it came out of a Outlaw ~800hp 410" motor. I was worried about shifting shock and the fact its hard to look at something with less bolts than oem, especially when its a performance part.
 
your u-joints and your drive shaft coupler have only 4 bolts , and they get subjected to similar shock loads so thats not a huge problem
 
Update welded on two ears and nitrided the crank. now I can sleep at night - nobody ever had heard of running a clutch on the 4 bolt rear.
 

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thank you for getting back to the site and posting pictures as IM sure it may help other members
 
Few updates - the crank when I got it was -.010" on the rods. I took it in to be turned down from a 400 main crank to a 350 main crank since I got a Dart SHP block, Moldex the local guy, checked out the rods and said they were fine so he left it at -.010". I recently put the rotating assy together and guess what? The pistons stuck OUT of the hole. boy was I puzzled.......Turns out the crank messed up a few years ago and when it was repaired the owner at that time decided to offset grind it to 3.820 stroke. So I had to order custom .051" Cometic head gaskets to get a .04" squish

Here is the data from the crank balance-
Rotate weight 946
Recip wedight 1496
bob 1694
847 half
976 tot wt
Recip factor 748
 
we always learn more from those surprise problems that all of us run into than we do, just assembling parts, look at that as a valuable part of the learning process
 
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