step by step engine removal

[grumpyvette]

this might not be for your year car exactly but its similar

ENGINE REMOVAL / ASSEMBLY
Removal
step by step
start by BUYING A SHOP MANUAL AND READING THRU THE PROCEDURE<
ITS always best to have a helper and a few basic safety tools like a fire extinguisher, cell phone, and use decent JACK STANDS, a LIFT and a DECENT ENGINE CRANE
working on a flat concrete surface and driving the corvette up on decent ramps to give you jack / frame clearance , AND THINK THRU ANYTHING THAT WILL GET YOU POTENTIALLY HURT.
OK first you DON,T raise a vette one corner at a time! you drive it up on the ramps to get clearance for the jack then slide the floor jack under the center of the front (CROSS MEMBER) and lift the front and place BOTH front 12 ton jack stands, then the angle allows you to either use a second floor jack or move the front floor jack to the rear of the vette, and lift the whole back and place both REAR 12 ton jack stands.
now personally I usually leave the rear jack stands and the jack holding the rear up ,and the 12 ton jack stands on the front with the tires hanging just above the ramps, that way theres almost no chance the vette can fall, even if some component were to fail.
Ill ALSO point out I have and have always used two floor jacks, twin rino ramps and 4 12 ton jack stand WHEN I was under the corvette as I don,t want to be doing bench presses with a vette!

Disconnect battery ground cable.

Drain cooling system.

Remove air cleaner.

Remove serpentine belt.

Remove braces at the back of A/C compressor.

Disconnect wires at A/C compressor.

Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at TBI units.

Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket nuts and bolts.

Disconnect heater hoses at the block.

Disconnect fuel line clip at fuel pump cover plate.

Disconnect upper radiator hose at thermostat outlet.

Remove A/C compressor to mounting bracket bolt and ove compressor aside.

Remove mounting bracket.

Disconnect CFI harness at engine.

Disconnect cruise, detent and accelerator cables.

Remove distributor shield.

Remove distributor cap.

Remove 4 wire connector at distributor.

Disconnect detent cable bracket at intake.

Remove distributor.

Disconnect wires at oil pressure sending unit.

Remove oil pressure sending unit.

Disconnect necessary vacuum hoses.

Disconnect power steering hoses at rack and pinion.

Remove crankshaft pulley.

Disconnect bulkhead connector and necessary harness connectors.

Disconnect AIR hoses at converter check valve.

Move fuel lines aside.

Disconnect radiator hose at water pump.

Disconnect upper radiator hose at power steering reservoir bracket.

Raise vehicle.

Disconnect AIR pipe at exhaust manifold.

Remove AIR pipe at converter.

Disconnect "Y" pipe hanger.

Disconnect heat shields at "Y" pipe and converter.

Disconnect oxygen sensor wire.

Remove exhaust bolts at manifold.

Remove "Y" pipe at converter bolts.

Remove "Y" pipe.

Remove flywheel cover.

Remove torque converter bolts.

Loosen motor mount through bolts.

Remove motor mount to engine block bolts.

Remove bell housing bolts.

Disconnect knock sensor wire.

Disconnect ground cable at block.

Disconnect positive battery cable at battery and harness.

Remove right rear intake manifold bolt and install lift hook.

Support transmission with jack.

Install lifting device and lift engine enough to remove CFI ground at rear of left cylinder head.

Remove engine from vehicle.


Installation
For installation, reverse Removal procedures.

 

[grumpyvette]

those plates work but thier a P.I.T.A. compared to the proper equipment and the PROPER TOOL is not that expensive. invest the $30-$40 and do it correctly, once youve USED a COMBO of a decent ENGINE TILTER AND A SWIVEL, youll wonder WHY you EVER considered doing it any other way

http://www.autobarn.net/2200lb-engine-tilter.html

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101

PERSONALLY I think its a NO BRAINER!
Ive used PLATES in swaps done at some of my friends shops, in my opinion they flat out are dangerous and very difficult to use compared to a good engine tilter like this one below,or above ........yeah they get used all the time with out problems while the plate seems attractive at $8 compared to $25-$30 or more for a tilter/leveler I have seen the plates destroy manifolds on two occasions by cracking carb mount pads and bending carb studs, especially if the intake is old with coroasion on the stud threads, (4)1/4" or 5/16" studs into aluminum intakes of questionable depth are no comparison to (4) 3/8" bolts into the cylinder heads, and the (4)head mounted 3/8" bolts are under shear and tension while the studs in the intake rely on the thread strength only

I now bring my own tilter/leveler when going to a friends to do an engine swap and have YET to find anyone who after useing one that did not go out and buy one!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=42356

LOOK THEY ARE ON SALE FOR $25, they are rated at 4000lbs vs 1250 lbs for the plate and they make life far easier durring an engine install at $25 they are a GREAT DEAL

ID STRONGLY SUGGEST adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES)

youll need two of these rated at similar load strength

I build at least 5 BIG BLOCKS for every SMALL BLOCK that goes thru my shop,and if theres any chance IM going to be and parts of my anatomy UNDER an engine at any time Id vastly prefer a large safety margin (I already have enought steel pins in my bones, and scars from stitches as it is)
carb studs are generally not FULL LENGTH THREADED INTO INTAKES and those threads tend to have seen a bit of rust,wear and abuse

the fact remains that even if both systems were equal in strength (which is easily proven they are not) that the engine leveler allows one man to change the angle the engine hangs at with far less effort and do so almost effortlessly a degree or two at a time WHILE its in the engine compartment, making matting the engine to a trans or aligning motor mounts far easier...if youve ever worked on an engine swap alone or with unskilled help that alone makes it well worth the cost differance

Where exactly do bolt those onto the engine? "

I generally temp. use 4 longer GRADE 8 bolts about 2.5" long (3/8" 16 thread )and a couple 3/8' fender washers on each bolt to prevent the chain link, or connector bar, from slipping off the bolt heads on those 4 bolts, slide the two-three washers on the bolt then slide the bolt thru the chain, or lift bar and thread into the cylinder head ,slipped thru the 4 ends of the chains on the leveler to replace (TEMP.) the 4 outer intake manifold bolts, I pull to install the bolts for the leveler/tilter
don,t be supprized if a bolt bends slightly, but be sure to screw the bolt threads into the cylinder heads a good deal, so they get a firm grip
that way you get 4 firm anchor points on the edges of the engine and its stays stabile.
there are several other ways to do it, but it requires special ( HARDENED/SHOULDER,EYE BOLTS) and safety links that cost more and if your not doing this frequently its probably not worth the extra expence, it won,t be stronger just faster and easier to use than the bolts and washers

some guys use the accessory mounting thread holes but some heads don,t have them and they can be hard to access to remove due to the firewall access at the rear
some guys use the 4 outer exhaust/header mounting bolt holes, but if you don,t screw the bolts in correctly you can crack a head with those easier than the other locations

BTW don,t forget too grease the threads on the leveler,and install a SWIVEL between the leveler and the crane hook, it helps

btw I sometimes get ask WHY not use shorter bolts, well at first that seems like a good idea but if the shorter bolts get used and the brackets get tighened against the manifold its fairly comon for the manifold to get cracked as the brackets on the end of the chains move as the lift levers the brackets like the head of a claw hammer pulling nails, or for guys to over tighten the bracket bolts and crack the heads, although the longer bolts may bend slightly but they won,t damage the intake and since they are obviously too long theres less tendency to over tighten them to hold the brackets tightly against the intake, while you might think that cracking a head thru over tightening bolts is rare ITS NOT!,besides they are cheap, consider them a re-useable but easily expendable tool

IF youve ever pulled or installed an engine like this with a leveler....could I make a suggestion, PLEASE use a single longer section of chain that drapes thru and out over both ends of the engine tilter, or even better, use two and drape them thru each end (possiably with a clevis) and bolt both ends of both chains to the engine as it will be far less likely to slip out under load.
YOU would NOT be the first guy to have one chain slide out of those end chain grip slots and the engine swing an destroy a wind sheild or radiator OR WORSE! doing that like the picture ABOVE depicts......[the picture below shows is in a safer config

 

[grumpyvette]

 

[Indycars]

Grumpy you need to be careful or you are going to develop an sense of humor if you keep this up! :roll: :mrgreen:

 

[grumpyvette]

Grumpy you need to be careful or you are going to develop an sense of humor if you keep this up! :roll: :mrgreen:

according to my wife theres no chance of that happening because "MEN DON<T HAVE A SENSE OF HUMOR"
according to HER!
but I pointed out we must have a fantastic sense of humor, .....look who most of us MARRY!,
not only does that prove we as a group ,must have a sense of humor, its strong evidence that were mostly incurable optimists and gullible to a fault!
men mostly marry younger women hoping they won,t change, but they do!,
women marry men thinking they can be changed, and most of us DON,T!