storring spare cylinder heads

[grumpyvette]

Ive stored dozens of cylinder heads in heavy duty 30 gallon trash bags over well oiled heads,you generally want to clean them with solvent and a stiff nylon brush, them heat them with a heat gun, to remove moisture, then spray them heavily with WD40 to be sure theres no moisture,making sure the plastic trash bags that are duct taped shut then placed in matched sets on a shelf in plastic storage containers, home depot sells several versions, the picture below is a very cheap option, I generally buy one that costs about $14 but its made from much heavier plastic

I generally buy a container thats about 26" long and about 18" wide and 10" deep, for each pair of heads stored
along with some brief documentation as to source, cost application and any custom milled angles etc.
use 2 garbage bags, and put them on in opposite directions.
that storing parts that are well oiled in double heavy duty plastic trash bags that are duct taped closed works reasonably well short term, but a good spray down with LPS #3

lasts longer than oil , as its a wax/oil mix that lasts for decades in a sealed bag
and use of larger plastic storage boxes, stored off the floor on shelving,
to place the parts in those trash bags in significantly helps reduce the chances of moisture intrusion

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=614&p=12734&hilit=engine+storing#p12734

you can store 4 heads in a larger container if you separate them with a layer of 3/8" plywood, over the bottom two heads to protect them from damage and place the next two carefully on top but remember cylinder heads are heavy so place the container on a lower shelf for easy access

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=571&p=731&hilit=storing+cams#p731
any time you have doubts about the condition of and component youll want to have it carefully inspected and if its required re-machined, polished or clearanced or tested as required , befor you use it, never assume!
know exactly what your dealing with and verify clearances, machine finishes on cranks blocks heads etc.

Any time you have too deal with any part that might be suspect! stop, and verify the components true condition and serviceability, any component that does not look like its un-salvageable, should be checked carefully before use, or re-use, If your not 100% sure,why not take it to a local machine shop you trust and ask them to polish all the cranks bearing journals to a mirror like finish , have a detailed talk with your machinist about ordering bearings matching the crank and never assume he did it correctly, take the time and effort to verify clearances.
BTW any time you store precision engine parts like a crank it should be carefully coated with moisture excluding oil/wax spray , wrapped loosely in oil soaked news-paper ,placed in a sealed plastic bag with a moisture absorbing dry outher news paper and placed in an air tight plastic box up on a shelf off the floor in a cool dry place.
KEEP IN MIND THERES SEVERAL VERSIONS OF WD40 SPECIALIST
YOU WANT THE LONG TERM CORROSION INHIBITOR

be aware that there generally are, engine bearings designed for

.001
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-3360cpa1/overview/make/ford

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-cb818p1/overview/make/ford

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kgb-cr816si001/overview/make/ford

http://www.kingbearings.com/explore/faq/

http://www.jegs.com/p/Clevite/Clevi...gin|0||P_SKU|0&Ns=P_Margin|0||P_SKU|0&Tab=SKU


.010
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kgb-cr8014si010/overview/make/ford


and .020
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kgb-cr816si020/overview/make/ford

undersized journals,
if you ask and do the required research if that were required.


related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/page-2#post-75256

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68205

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68194

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-holes-in-bearings-shells.10750/#post-64733

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nk-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/#post-21611

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...d-side-clearance-dont-assume.4690/#post-18939

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-17252

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/storing-a-spare-engine.614/#post-12424

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/storing-cams.571/#post-731

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...torring-spare-cylinder-heads.5314/#post-15789

I generally buy a container thats about 26" long and about 18" wide and 10" deep, for each pair of heads stored
along with some brief documentation as to source, cost application and any custom milled angles etc.
use 2 garbage bags, and put them on in opposite directions.
that storing parts that are well oiled in double heavy duty plastic trash bags that are duct taped closed works reasonably well short term, but a good spray down with LPS #3

lasts longer than oil , as its a wax/oil mix that lasts for decades in a sealed bag
and use of larger plastic storage boxes, stored off the floor on shelving,
to place the parts in those trash bags in significantly helps reduce the chances of moisture intrusion

theres no real major difference in the care needed in storing, cleaning or polishing
having access too and using a skilled knowledgeable machinist is a huge help.
ford, mopar, caddy, pontiac,olds,chevy, buick, import,, etc cranks