studs, extra strength and why you should use them at times

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
Studs, strength and why you should use them at times
The tensile strain on a bolt is much different from that of a stud.
a bolt is more likely to break because the entire length must turn to adjust tension. This creates the risk of shearing the head of the bolt off when increasing or releasing tension. In comparison, only the nut turns on a stud, significantly reducing the risk of breakage.
BOLTS ALSO INDUCE WEAR ON THREADS IN THE COMPONENT, STUDS ARE EASILY REPLACED AND CAUSE LESS WEAR, AND MORE EVEN CLAMP LOADS
ALWAYS, BEFORE INSTALLING STUDS FIRST, READ UNDERSTAND AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS

RELATED INFO

Bolthelicoilrp.jpg

(1) a correctly installed stud tends to be both stronger and far less likely to strip threads
STUDS HAVE THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE THREADS BEAR STRESS LOADS, UNLIKE BOLTS, WHERE THE LOADS VARY AS THE THREADS ROTATE
(2) studs tend to spread the thread stress load over a greater surface area
(3) studs tend to allow greater clamping force and more even application of that clamping force
(4) studs tend to have a NC thread in the block and a NF thread thats used with a nut to apply the clamping loads thus lower wear on the block threads
(5) studs should be installed to a minimum of twice their diameter into the block and have the threads coated with anti seize past
(6) never bottom out a stud, most studs have a mid band, if the hole depth allows run the stud in until that band touches but not past that point.
(7) Use a tap to clean the threads before installing a stud
(8) Use a tread sealant if a stud enters a water jacket or oil passage
(9) Studs generally come with a matched nut and washer USE THE CORRECT MATCH PARTS
ALWAYS, BEFORE INSTALLING STUDS FIRST, READ UNDERSTAND AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS
(10)

Now I spent a good deal of time in college doing testing and research on this very thing as its REQUIRED in engineering classes, at first you may think its boring as all get out but after awhile you see the reasons its important to know.
Ill try to make this very short and simple
When you thread a bolt or stud into a material several factors determine the ability of the threads to hold, the thread design itself, the material the bolt or stud is made from and the material your threading them into should be obvious, but what many people don't understand is that the amount of thread engagement is critical as is the type of stress, if your pulling directly in line with the bolts center line the (TENSION) is going to be different and the stress is different than if the two parts bolted together are trying to slide past each other (SHEAR).
EXAMPLE BALANCER or damper bolt to re- install the damper on the crank youll run a high risk of stripping the threads simply because your applying a good deal of tension BEFORE the necessary amount of threads are engaged and the total surface area of those threads is far less than ideal during the first few turns under that tension/load.
A STUD is not used like a BOLT, , bolts generally have tension build as the bolts tighten against the threads ,a stud is screwed in finger tight into the matched hole to its designed depth and only then is tension applied to the material and threads, usually thru use of a NUT tightened on the extended threads, and those threads are frequently finer in pitch ,having a greater total surface area to the length of engagement.

Links you may need

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html


http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html



http://www.toolprice.com/category/handt ... WAodiBpnDg

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/taps.html

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?P ... AND%20TAPS


http://www.engineersedge.com/thread_str ... td-h28.htm

If you do manage to strip threads, Drill and thread too next larger diameter bolt in NF threads, HELICOIL REPAIR is a second option that must be used in some applications

http://stripe.colorado.edu/~genovaj/helicoil.htm

http://www.korit.com/tapndrill.htm


http://www.rfcafe.com/references/genera ... ll_sae.htm


http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm


http://www.simetric.co.uk/sidrill.htm


http://www.hotrodsandclassics.net/usefu ... 0sizes.htm

the correct way to repair a striped thread hole is to either use a helicoil the threaded hole with an insert or on aluminum heads ,its some times easier to have it welded and drilled and re- threaded /tapped use of studs, and valve cover hold down bolts that fit the studs, rather than bolts tends to prevent that from happening

SUM-G3424_xl.jpg

helicoil1a.png


helicoil2.jpg


helicoil3.jpg


helicoil4.jpg


http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Hel ... 5C1376FCDB
 
Last edited by a moderator:
many guys have coolant leaks from studs and head bolts,you don,t need that P.I.T.A.

guys! Ive YET to have a single stud or bolt leak!

its simple! run a tap thru the threads, test screw the clean/dry stud by hand to verify no clearance or binding then ,clean them and dry the threads on the block and studs,before you start the assembly, and just dip the total threaded surface on the lower studs course thread end of the stud that screws into the block into the correct sealant. spin it in your fingers slowly as you move the stud to the hole in the block to keep from dripping sealant on the deck,

thread it into the block full depth , back it out a 1/2 turn and let it set up for a few minutes before assembling the head gaskets and heads,but assemble the heads while the sealants still fresh/liquid, torque too spec and let the engine set for a few hours (preferably over night)

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=386

the stuff works far more relieably than most thread pastes or thread sealants, it cleans ,off fingers with a scotchbrite pad and gas or alcohol,....provided you have not let it set up on your skin very long, once its started too dry ...good luck

YES it works on BOLTS ALSO

head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69

or this

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=2&familyid=384

(NOT QUITE AS GOOD BUT STILL OK)

then insert and tq heads in place





use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS
 
Re: studs, extra strength and why you should use them at tim

many guys have coolant leaks from studs and head bolts,you don,t need that P.I.T.A.

guys! Ive YET to have a single stud or bolt leak!

its simple! run a tap thru the threads, test screw the clean/dry stud by hand to verify no clearance or binding then ,clean them and dry the threads on the block and studs,before you start the assembly, and just dip the total threaded surface on the lower studs course thread end of the stud that screws into the block into the correct sealant. spin it in your fingers slowly as you move the stud to the hole in the block to keep from dripping sealant on the deck,

thread it into the block full depth , back it out a 1/2 turn and let it set up for a few minutes before assembling the head gaskets and heads,but assemble the heads while the sealants still fresh/liquid, torque too spec and let the engine set for a few hours (preferably over night)

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=386

the stuff works far more relieably than most thread pastes or thread sealants, it cleans ,off fingers with a scotchbrite pad and gas or alcohol,....provided you have not let it set up on your skin very long, once its started too dry ...good luck

YES it works on BOLTS ALSO

head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69

or this

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=2&familyid=384

(NOT QUITE AS GOOD BUT STILL OK)

then insert and tq heads in place

arpthreadlube.jpg

this should be used only in head bolt holes that don,t enter water jackets in the block



use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS
 
Back
Top