the answer depends on your compression ratio,rear gear ratio and cam timing but the 2800-3000rpm would be my selection,
OK,I asked a totally independent source to describe the difference in what it felt like to drive ,between a stock 2200rpm stall converter and the 3500rpm stall converter, Ive tried before, but here is how, someone who just did the swap describes it!
here is what I asked!
"I have tried unsuccessfully in the past but perhaps you could do it better,could you please attempt to describe the difference in the driving impression or feel the high stall 3500rpm,converter made VS the stock 2200rpm converter in normal street low rpm driving, and then separately how it works at the track differently, there seems to be the myth that a 3500rpm stall converter won,t move the car under light loads at anything less than 3500rpm (WITH A 3500 RPM CONVERTER) I really don,t understand how people think like that since a stock converter stalling at lets say 1800-2200 moves the car just fine at 1200rpm, but perhaps you can add some input here"
HERE IS HIS REPLY
rytherwr
(BTW HIS BASIC COMBO....'71 240Z, 454 SBC, 4L80E, 9 inch Ford, 4.11's, Moser axles, full cage, etc. (6.90@103.64 in the 1/8 mile))
"the difference under part throttle is that it takes a little more rpm to get the car started moving than a stock converter. Mine would feel different than his as I am running a 4l80e with much more internal mass to move than a PG..hence the difference in feel. However, I digress...I will just compare the apples-to-apples of my particular feel after the swap in my hot rod. My engine was bogging in with the stock converter when I put on the brakes...doesn't do it now with the converter more free...idles well and keeps me from having to put a brake vacuum canister on it. So...on the street at low rpm, you essentially just need a little more rpm to get you moving...certainly not 3500, more like around 1600 to 1800 or so in my case, depending on how fast I want to move the car. Once moving and everything starts spinning at the same speed, can't tell a difference under steady-throttle cruising...however, if you have matched the converter to flash into your power band, watch out!!!..your in for a ride. ) Folks need to understand that the particular total package they have will dictate how the car will react to differences in torque converter stall speed, engine torque output being one of the many factors.
On the track, or under full throttle conditions on the street (only when I have to get up those steep on-ramps of course), the difference is dramatic! With the 2200 stall converter, I would leave the line and mope up to about 4500 rpm in around 100 feet...no 60 ft time at all...once I got in to my power band (tq...not hp...around 4500 or so), it took off like a raped ape. You could tell what the problem was when I was running 1.8 60 ft times, 11.20 but almost 127 mph...I was losing it at the line. Enter the 3500 stall converter....with my engine, it flashes to around 4300-4500 depending on how high I brake stall it (so far, around 2800-3100 rpm), and puts me right in my tq band...takes off great...totally different feel as it pulls hard right from the start. Still, under part throttle...the same conditions apply as in the paragraph above. "
BTW Ive got a 3000rpm stall converter in my 383 700r4 combo and it pulls just fine under light throttle from 1400-1600rpm or so, where the stock converter , stalled at about 2100rpm and pulled from about 1100-1200rpm under light throttle
but the difference once you floor the accelerator is very noticeable
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/dr ... al-chance/
PRECISION INDUSTRY'S, and YANK both make reasonable quality converters, from the few example,s Ive seen used ,Ive seen less than ideal results from a few B&M and TCS products, just keep in mind youll rarely find a decent converter for less than about $600-$700 yes I know you want to spend less, but in most cases its a FALSE value, when the cheap converter self destructs its frequently going to destroy the transmission its used with.
obviously most companys sell economy converters and full race converters that are not just re-worked stock converters, and theres ZERO in common between the two in QUALITY AND DURABILITY
OK,I asked a totally independent source to describe the difference in what it felt like to drive ,between a stock 2200rpm stall converter and the 3500rpm stall converter, Ive tried before, but here is how, someone who just did the swap describes it!
here is what I asked!
"I have tried unsuccessfully in the past but perhaps you could do it better,could you please attempt to describe the difference in the driving impression or feel the high stall 3500rpm,converter made VS the stock 2200rpm converter in normal street low rpm driving, and then separately how it works at the track differently, there seems to be the myth that a 3500rpm stall converter won,t move the car under light loads at anything less than 3500rpm (WITH A 3500 RPM CONVERTER) I really don,t understand how people think like that since a stock converter stalling at lets say 1800-2200 moves the car just fine at 1200rpm, but perhaps you can add some input here"
HERE IS HIS REPLY
rytherwr
(BTW HIS BASIC COMBO....'71 240Z, 454 SBC, 4L80E, 9 inch Ford, 4.11's, Moser axles, full cage, etc. (6.90@103.64 in the 1/8 mile))
"the difference under part throttle is that it takes a little more rpm to get the car started moving than a stock converter. Mine would feel different than his as I am running a 4l80e with much more internal mass to move than a PG..hence the difference in feel. However, I digress...I will just compare the apples-to-apples of my particular feel after the swap in my hot rod. My engine was bogging in with the stock converter when I put on the brakes...doesn't do it now with the converter more free...idles well and keeps me from having to put a brake vacuum canister on it. So...on the street at low rpm, you essentially just need a little more rpm to get you moving...certainly not 3500, more like around 1600 to 1800 or so in my case, depending on how fast I want to move the car. Once moving and everything starts spinning at the same speed, can't tell a difference under steady-throttle cruising...however, if you have matched the converter to flash into your power band, watch out!!!..your in for a ride. ) Folks need to understand that the particular total package they have will dictate how the car will react to differences in torque converter stall speed, engine torque output being one of the many factors.
On the track, or under full throttle conditions on the street (only when I have to get up those steep on-ramps of course), the difference is dramatic! With the 2200 stall converter, I would leave the line and mope up to about 4500 rpm in around 100 feet...no 60 ft time at all...once I got in to my power band (tq...not hp...around 4500 or so), it took off like a raped ape. You could tell what the problem was when I was running 1.8 60 ft times, 11.20 but almost 127 mph...I was losing it at the line. Enter the 3500 stall converter....with my engine, it flashes to around 4300-4500 depending on how high I brake stall it (so far, around 2800-3100 rpm), and puts me right in my tq band...takes off great...totally different feel as it pulls hard right from the start. Still, under part throttle...the same conditions apply as in the paragraph above. "
BTW Ive got a 3000rpm stall converter in my 383 700r4 combo and it pulls just fine under light throttle from 1400-1600rpm or so, where the stock converter , stalled at about 2100rpm and pulled from about 1100-1200rpm under light throttle
but the difference once you floor the accelerator is very noticeable
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/dr ... al-chance/
PRECISION INDUSTRY'S, and YANK both make reasonable quality converters, from the few example,s Ive seen used ,Ive seen less than ideal results from a few B&M and TCS products, just keep in mind youll rarely find a decent converter for less than about $600-$700 yes I know you want to spend less, but in most cases its a FALSE value, when the cheap converter self destructs its frequently going to destroy the transmission its used with.
obviously most companys sell economy converters and full race converters that are not just re-worked stock converters, and theres ZERO in common between the two in QUALITY AND DURABILITY