GRUMPYVETTE??
I bought my 87 Sunday n saw they had a new alternator on it. And the volts were around 17.5 n had a red bar in the dash next to it. Wednesday the car wouldn't turn over so I buy a new battery put it in and everything is fine on the ride home. I got to crank it up a few hours later and it's giving me problems not wanting to turn over again finally on the 3rd try it cut on and my volts were back around 17 to 17.5 where as before when I put the new battery in the dolts were normal. Anybody got any kinda clue as to what's going on?
sounds like a defective voltage regulator to me.
25 year old car gauges are frequently defective so verify voltage with a multi meter
PULL THE TROUBLE CODES
YOU NEED A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL
most common GM alternators have built in voltage regulators
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2697&p=7173&hilit=test+alternator#p7173
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcRG-XBzk7U
viewtopic.php?f=80&t=3063&p=13379&hilit=shop+manual#p13379
http://www.ehow.com/how_7658994_trouble ... nator.html
http://www.dbelectrical.com/casearch.as ... ageSize=60
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9594-alte ... -1993.aspx
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3478-ford ... t-101.aspx
the links and sub links will help here
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575&hilit=test+alternator#p8575
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=3110&p=8302&hilit=test+alternator#p8302
look at things logically, the ONLY way voltage is generated is from the alternator, it alone produces voltage, the battery is an electrical power storage device the alternator works in conjunction with a voltage regulator, it can be separate OR internal to the alternator,if your MULTI METER shows that voltage , your symptoms indicate a faulty voltage regulator or bad grounds, yes your alternator can be putting out to much voltage!
yes a defective voltage regulator can damage both the battery and alternator.
yes Im sure many people reading this would rather be tied naked to the back of a truck with a 50 foot long chain, and be dragged thru a mile of broken glass at 60 mph, while being sprayed with flaming oil ,rather than read links, and sub links ,but you might be amazed at what you can find out by doing so.
yes an alternator can be brand new and still be defective!!
read the linked and sub linked info
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575&hilit=test+alternator#p8575
If the alternator is working well, your multi-meter should read somewhere in the vicinity of 14 volts (typically 13.8-14.2). If it is reading excessively higher than 14 volts (greater than 15 volts) it is possible that the voltage regulator , or diodes on your alternator are faulty or going bad. If it is reading lower than 13-14 volts, there are a number of possibilities as to the reason. First, it is possible that your engine idle speed is too low for the alternator to put out sufficient voltage/power. Try revving up the engine to 2000 RPM or higher and take a reading. If the voltage is still too low, check to be sure all the connectors on your alternator are tight and that the alternator belt is not slipping and is spinning on the pulley correctly. If it is still not putting out sufficient power, then the alternator’s voltage regulator could be bad or the alternator itself may need replaced.
A car alternator needs to be putting out at least 13-14 volts (ideally between 13.8 and 14.2 volts) to effectively charge a 12 volt car battery. If the alternator is putting out too much voltage (15+ volts), it is likely your battery acid will boil over out of the battery. When a battery is near fully charged the alternator will cease to put out sufficient voltage to charge the battery and the reading you will get from the battery probing method will simply be the voltage coming from the battery itself. In this case, you can simply leave your lights on with the car off for ten or fifteen minutes to drain your battery a little bit.
It can also be helpful to test at the battery terminals with the engine off and then turn the car on and test again at the terminals. If your battery is more or less fully charged, it should read at around 12-13 volts with the car off. If you’ve run your car for a long time and while the car is running the voltage reading is in the 13-14 volt range, but then you shut the car off and the battery voltage instantly drops to well below 12 volts (10 volts or under; 9 volts or under in freezing weather conditions), it is likely that your battery needs maintenance or replaced.
I bought my 87 Sunday n saw they had a new alternator on it. And the volts were around 17.5 n had a red bar in the dash next to it. Wednesday the car wouldn't turn over so I buy a new battery put it in and everything is fine on the ride home. I got to crank it up a few hours later and it's giving me problems not wanting to turn over again finally on the 3rd try it cut on and my volts were back around 17 to 17.5 where as before when I put the new battery in the dolts were normal. Anybody got any kinda clue as to what's going on?
sounds like a defective voltage regulator to me.
25 year old car gauges are frequently defective so verify voltage with a multi meter
PULL THE TROUBLE CODES
YOU NEED A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL
most common GM alternators have built in voltage regulators
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2697&p=7173&hilit=test+alternator#p7173
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcRG-XBzk7U
viewtopic.php?f=80&t=3063&p=13379&hilit=shop+manual#p13379
http://www.ehow.com/how_7658994_trouble ... nator.html
http://www.dbelectrical.com/casearch.as ... ageSize=60
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9594-alte ... -1993.aspx
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3478-ford ... t-101.aspx
the links and sub links will help here
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575&hilit=test+alternator#p8575
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=3110&p=8302&hilit=test+alternator#p8302
look at things logically, the ONLY way voltage is generated is from the alternator, it alone produces voltage, the battery is an electrical power storage device the alternator works in conjunction with a voltage regulator, it can be separate OR internal to the alternator,if your MULTI METER shows that voltage , your symptoms indicate a faulty voltage regulator or bad grounds, yes your alternator can be putting out to much voltage!
yes a defective voltage regulator can damage both the battery and alternator.
yes Im sure many people reading this would rather be tied naked to the back of a truck with a 50 foot long chain, and be dragged thru a mile of broken glass at 60 mph, while being sprayed with flaming oil ,rather than read links, and sub links ,but you might be amazed at what you can find out by doing so.
yes an alternator can be brand new and still be defective!!
read the linked and sub linked info
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575&hilit=test+alternator#p8575
If the alternator is working well, your multi-meter should read somewhere in the vicinity of 14 volts (typically 13.8-14.2). If it is reading excessively higher than 14 volts (greater than 15 volts) it is possible that the voltage regulator , or diodes on your alternator are faulty or going bad. If it is reading lower than 13-14 volts, there are a number of possibilities as to the reason. First, it is possible that your engine idle speed is too low for the alternator to put out sufficient voltage/power. Try revving up the engine to 2000 RPM or higher and take a reading. If the voltage is still too low, check to be sure all the connectors on your alternator are tight and that the alternator belt is not slipping and is spinning on the pulley correctly. If it is still not putting out sufficient power, then the alternator’s voltage regulator could be bad or the alternator itself may need replaced.
A car alternator needs to be putting out at least 13-14 volts (ideally between 13.8 and 14.2 volts) to effectively charge a 12 volt car battery. If the alternator is putting out too much voltage (15+ volts), it is likely your battery acid will boil over out of the battery. When a battery is near fully charged the alternator will cease to put out sufficient voltage to charge the battery and the reading you will get from the battery probing method will simply be the voltage coming from the battery itself. In this case, you can simply leave your lights on with the car off for ten or fifteen minutes to drain your battery a little bit.
It can also be helpful to test at the battery terminals with the engine off and then turn the car on and test again at the terminals. If your battery is more or less fully charged, it should read at around 12-13 volts with the car off. If you’ve run your car for a long time and while the car is running the voltage reading is in the 13-14 volt range, but then you shut the car off and the battery voltage instantly drops to well below 12 volts (10 volts or under; 9 volts or under in freezing weather conditions), it is likely that your battery needs maintenance or replaced.
