tranny pull when new engine goes in

busterrm

busterrm

solid fixture here in the forum
I am planning on pulling the tranny, when I put in the new 400 in my nova. I am going to pull the old engine and tranny together. The tranny has a few seeping leaks so I am going to seal it up and run new lines to the radiator. What would be best material for the new tranny lines?
 
I would use Steel Lines Bob.
Purchase Reproductions or Hand Bend them yourself.
Or use Teflon Braided Hoses & AN Race fittings if its in budget to do so.
 
I am also thinking of changing the motor mounts while I am at it. Thinking of going with rear mount on tranny bellhousing and front mounts. The rear mounts I can buy, but the front mounts I will have to fabricate.
 
I don,t know if you intend to run the trans fluid lines to the stock radiator and back to the transmission,or too an aftermarket trans cooler , but a good hydraulic supply can easily fabricate either high temp. and high pressure hydraulic lines , to match your application if you give them accurate measurements and fitting sizes or you can buy and bend and flare metal tube.
these links may help

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1030&p=11111&hilit=flare+tube#p11111


Ive removed near countless transmissions, from cars you don,t need a full lift in your shop,\
Ive done clutch and trans swaps and converter swaps with 4 12 ton jack stands for decades
with these tools.
youll need a quality high lift low profile floor jack thats no more than 3.5" tall flat on the floor and lifts to 20" minimum shop around theres a huge variation in floor jack quality
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60678.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-68056.html

a cheap but functional tranny jack and 4 12 ton jack stands


image_328.jpg


you could easily build 4 of these wood jack stand replacements for under $70, for all materials, simply have home depot cut 12 standard 2"x 4" boards into 15.5" lengths and a sheet of 1/2" marine plywood into 15.5 x 15.5 inch squares and obviously buy wood glue and lots of 3" deck screws
f250stands.jpg


and a decent floor jack

to muscle it up into place while getting the bolts lined up
tcclearance.gif

vettejack1c.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-steel-jack-stands-61599.html

450tr.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

better
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html



1500tr.jpg

even better yet
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-60636.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ack-makes-all-the-difference.5512/#post-43359
 
Last edited by a moderator:
87vette81big said:
I would use Steel Lines Bob.
Purchase Reproductions or Hand Bend them yourself.
Or use Teflon Braided Hoses & AN Race fittings if its in budget to do so.
Click to expand...
Its a built TH 350, with a Coan 2700 stall, do I need larger lines? If I hand bend them what would be the best route, the originals run up over the crossmember close to the headers, I just think it might heat the tranny fluild if i route them that way.
 
grumpyvette said:
I don,t know if you intend to run the trans fluid lines to the stock radiator and back to the transmission,or too an aftermarket trans cooler , but a good hydraulic supply can easily fabricate either high temp. and high pressure hydraulic lines , to match your application if you give them accurate measurements and fitting sizes or you can buy and bend and flare metal tube.
these links may help

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1030&p=11111&hilit=flare+tube#p11111
Click to expand...
I was thinking of running it through the cooler first then to the radiator, or which is wiser to do Grumpy. To the cooler first then radiator, or radiator then the cooler?
 
If you can Afford to do so Bob, #6 & #8 PTFE Stainless Steel Aeroquip or Earl's Race Hose is Best.
With fittings & Race Performance Cooler, it will cost $400-600.
Its money well spent. Life insurance Policy bought for your trans.
$ is tight for most today.
Shop carefully . Check your local speed shop for deals.
 
busterrm said:
grumpyvette said:
I don,t know if you intend to run the trans fluid lines to the stock radiator and back to the transmission,or too an aftermarket trans cooler , but a good hydraulic supply can easily fabricate either high temp. and high pressure hydraulic lines , to match your application if you give them accurate measurements and fitting sizes or you can buy and bend and flare metal tube.
these links may help

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1030&p=11111&hilit=flare+tube#p11111
Click to expand...
I was thinking of running it through the cooler first then to the radiator, or which is wiser to do Grumpy. To the cooler first then radiator, or radiator then the cooler?
Click to expand...
Your link answered it for me, cooler first then radiator to help cool the engine a little better.
 
87vette81big said:
5/16" ID Hose minumum Bob.
3/8" ID Better.
Click to expand...
It has the 3/8 on it now, I just found reproduction lines @ Inline Tubing for 60 with shipping. I am going to get a cooler with a fan also, I plan on putting it up front behind the headlight on pass side. Gonna move the battery to the other side.
 
busterrm said:
87vette81big said:
5/16" ID Hose minumum Bob.
3/8" ID Better.
Click to expand...
It has the 3/8 on it now, I just found reproduction lines @ Inline Tubing for 60 with shipping. I am going to get a cooler with a fan also, I plan on putting it up front behind the headlight on pass side. Gonna move the battery to the other side.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a Good Plan.

I recall tonight helping my friend Mopar Bob hand bending 1/2" inch Copper Tubing from a Roll of 25' feet for his old 1969 Dodge Super B.
440 & 727 Torqueflite Auto Trans.
Mopar had special brass fittings that screwed into the trans.
It was a stock copper tube layout.
The job was easy.
Took only a few hours .
Back in 1998.
 
busterrm said:
I am also thinking of changing the motor mounts while I am at it. Thinking of going with rear mount on tranny bellhousing and front mounts. The rear mounts I can buy, but the front mounts I will have to fabricate.
Click to expand...
Do the rear mounts bolt between the tranny and engine, or does it mount behind the tranny bellhousing?
 
Are You Talking about Engine Midplate Motor Mounts Bob ?
True Drag Race Style.
Its the Best & Strongest Layout Yes.
You can use 2 .
One at the front of the Engine. Another at the rear.

Its more easily done with a True Race Car Tubular Chassis.

The advantage is No Distotred Engine cylinder block cylinder walls under launch.
Better Piston Ring Seal.
Faster 60 Foot Launch times.
Its the Right way to Mount an Engine for 500-8,000 HP.
 
87vette81big said:
Are You Talking about Engine Midplate Motor Mounts Bob ?
True Drag Race Style.
Its the Best & Strongest Layout Yes.
You can use 2 .
One at the front of the Engine. Another at the rear.

Its more easily done with a True Race Car Tubular Chassis.

The advantage is No Distotred Engine cylinder block cylinder walls under launch.
Better Piston Ring Seal.
Faster 60 Foot Launch times.
Its the Right way to Mount an Engine for 500-8,000 HP.
Click to expand...
Yes, a midplate is what I mean, there have always been clearance issues with headers and such with the standard mounts. I have the tools to do the fabrication work on both the midplate and the front mounts. I am going to do some other work on the engine bay when the old engine is out anyway, so why not go ahead and get the mounts done also. I am going to have find an empty TH 350 case to bolt to the block though.
 
Keep watching Craigslist Bob.
Should find an Empty TH350 Case for $20.
Rebuilable Chevy Bolt Pattern TH350 For $50-100.
TH350 is a good trans with a few simple mods.
Extra Trans core good to have around also.
 
No one answered my earlier question, where does the midmount attach? Between engine and tranny bellhousing or behind the bellhousing? I am thinking I might use studs instead of bolts for the tranny to engine attachment. Any thoughts guys?
 
The Midmount plate mounts between the Engine Block & Transmission Bob.
Your in for some custom metal fabricatiion work.
I know You Love it Though & Excellent at it.
No mounts will fail.
Be Strong as Triple distilled Cherry Blossom Happy Juice.
 
87vette81big said:
The Midmount plate mounts between the Engine Block & Transmission Bob.
Your in for some custom metal fabricatiion work.
I know You Love it Though & Excellent at it.
No mounts will fail.
Be Strong as Triple distilled Cherry Blossom Happy Juice.
Click to expand...
Do you add spacers for the torque converter? I have never used a midmount so this is new to me!
 
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