http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairq ... 123_0.html
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInf ... ctancy.asp
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1847
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=4909&p=13548&hilit=trans+cooler#p13548
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=4059&hilit=trans+fluid#p4059
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=12989&hilit=trans+cooler#p12989
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=176&p=12473&hilit=trans+cooler#p12473
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/tsb/data ... 0-037a.pdf
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=912#p912
TRANSMISSION FLUIDS
Over the years, there have been a confusing array of different ATF types and specifications. Make sure the replacement fluid meets or exceeds all OEM requirements. Using the wrong type of fluid may cause transmission problems and damage.
Type F -- Introduced by Ford in 1967 for their automatics. Also used by Toyota.
Type CJ -- Special fluid for Ford C6 transmissions. Similar to Dexron II. Must not be used in automatics that require Type F. Can be replaced with Mercon or Mercon V.
Type H -- Another limited Ford spec that differs from both Dexron and Type F. Can be replaced with Mercon or Mercon V.
Mercon -- Ford fluid introduced in 1987, very similar to Dexron II. Okay for all earlier Fords except those that require Type F. As of July 1, 2007, the production and licensing of Mercon ATF by Ford ends. Ford says applications that require Mercon ATF can now be serviced with Mercon V. See Ford TSB 06144 for more information.
Mercon V -- Replaces Mercon. Introduced in 1997 for Ranger, Explorer V6 and Aerostar, and 1998 & up Windstar, Taurus/Sable and Continental. This is the current ATF for most late model Ford products. See Ford TSB 06144 for more information.
Mercon SP -- Latest friction-modified ATF for Ford TorqShift Transmissions only. Do NOT use in transmissions that require Mercon or Mercon V. See Ford TSB 06144 for more information.
Dexron -- General Motors original ATF for automatics.
Dexron II -- Improved GM formula with better viscosity control and additional oxidation inhibitors. Can be used in place of Dexron.
Dexron IIE -- GM fluid for electronic transmissions.
Dexron III -- Replaces Dexron IIE and adds improved oxidation and corrosion control in GM electronic automatics.
Dexron III (H) -- Improved version of Dexron III released in 2003.
Dexron III/Saturn -- A special fluid spec for Saturns.
Dexron-VI -- Introduced in 2006 for GM Hydra-Matic 6L80 6-speed rear-wheel-drive transmissions. Dexron VI now replaces Dexron III and II, and can be used in GM or import transmissions that formerly specified Dexron III or II.
Chrysler 7176 -- For Chrysler FWD transaxles.
Chrysler 7176D (ATF+2) -- Adds improved cold temperature flow and oxidation resistance. Introduced 1997.
Chrysler 7176E (ATF+3) -- Adds improved shear stability and uses a higher quality base oil. Required for four-speed automatics (do NOT use Dexron or Mercon as a substitute).
Chrysler ATF+4 (ATE) -- Introduced in 1998, ATF+4 is synthetic and replaces the previous ATF+3 fluid. Used primarily for 2000 and 2001 vehicles, it can also be used in earlier Chrysler transmissions (except 1999 and older minivans with 41TE/AE transmission). ATF+3 should continue to be used for 1999 and earlier minivans because of the potential for torque converter shudder during break in.
NOTE:Chrysler ATF+4 Must always be used in vehicles that were originally filled with ATF+4. The red dye used in ATF+4 is not permanent. As the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Therefore, do not relay on the color and odor of ATF+4 to determine if the fluid needs to be changed. Follow the OEM recommended service interval.
Chrysler ATF+5 for 2002 and newer models.
IMPORT APPLICATIONS:
BMW LT7114l or LA2634 -- Special formula for BMW transmissions.
Genuine Honda ZL ATF -- Special ATF for Honda automatics (except CVT applications).
Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II & SP-Ill -- Special formula ATFs for Mitsubishi transmissions.
Nissan J-Matic -- Special formula for Nissan transmissions.
Toyota Type T, T-III & T-IV -- Special formula ATFs for Toyota and Lexus transmissions.
NOTE: There are a number of aftermarket synthetic ATF fluids that claim to meet numerous OEM requirements. Refer to the product label for approved applications.
DEXRON-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission/transaxel in place of DEXRON-III (i.e. topping off the fluid int the event of a repair or fluid change.) DEXRON-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON for use in automatic tranmissions/transaxels.
Dexron VI is completely compatible with all GM automatic transmissions using dextron 3 in the past.
that does not mean its a substitute for all auto trans fluids or mercon
Most owner's manuals say it isn't necessary. Yeah, right. That's why transmission shops are making a fortune replacing burned out automatic transmissions.
For optimum protection, change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles (unless you have a new vehicle that is filled with Dexron III ATF which is supposed to be good for 100,000 miles).
Why Atf Wears Out
An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads.
It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.
At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits. The only way to repair the damage now is with an overhaul -- a job which can easily run upwards of $1500 on a late model front-wheel drive car or minivan.
As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!
At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up.
If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.
On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.!
Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.
Any number of things can push ATF temperatures beyond the system's ability to maintain safe limits: towing a trailer, mountain driving, driving at sustained high speeds during hot weather, stop-and-go driving in city traffic, "rocking" an automatic transmission from drive to reverse to free a tire from mud or snow, etc. Problems in the cooling system itself such as a low coolant level, a defective cooling fan, fan clutch, thermostat or water pump, an obstructed radiator, etc., will also diminish ATF cooling efficiency. In some cases, transmission overheating can even lead to engine coolant overheating! That's why there's a good demand for auxiliary add-on transmission coolers.
Auxiliary Cooling
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.
Atf Fluid Types
What kind of automatic transmission fluid should you use in your transmission? The type specified in your owner's manual or printed on the transmission dipstick.
For older Ford automatics and certain imports, Type "F" is usually required. Most Fords since the 1980s require "Mercon" fluid, which is Ford's equivalent of Dexron II.
For General Motors, Chrysler and other imports, Dexron II is usually specified.
NOTE: Some newer vehicles with electronically-controlled transmissions require Dexron IIe or Dexron III fluid. GM says its new long-life Dexron III fluid can be substituted for Dexron II in older vehicle applications.
CAUTION: Using the wrong type of fluid can affect the way the transmission shifts and feels. Using Type F fluid in an application that calls for Dexron II may make the transmission shift too harshly. Using Dexron II in a transmission that requires Type F may allow the transmission to slip under heavy load, which can accelerate clutch wear.
Changing The Fluid
It's a messy job because there's no drain plug to change the fluid, but you can do it yourself if you're so inclined. To change the fluid, you have to get under your vehicle and remove the pan from the bottom of the transmission.
When you loosen the pan, fluid will start to dribble out in all directions so you need a fairly large catch pan. You should also know that removing the pan doesn't drain all of the old fluid out of the transmission. Approximately a third of the old fluid will still be in the torque converter. There's no drain plug on the converter so you're really only doing a partial fluid change. Even so, a partial fluid change is better than no fluid change at all.
A typical fluid change will require anywhere from 3 to 6 quarts of ATF depending on the application, a new filter and a pan gasket (or RTV sealer) for the transmission pan. The pan must be thoroughly cleaned prior to reinstallation. This includes wiping all fluid residue from the inside of the pan and scraping all traces of the old gasket from the pan's sealing surface. Don't forget to clean the mounting flange on the transmission, too.
When the new filter is installed, be sure it is mounted in the exact same position as the original and that any O-rings or other gaskets have been properly positioned prior to tightening the bolts. Then tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's recommended specs.
When refilling the transmission with fresh fluid, be careful not to allow any dirt or debris to enter the dipstick tube. Using a long-neck funnel with a built-in screen is recommended.
CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission. Too much fluid can cause the fluid to foam, which in turn can lead to erratic shifting, oil starvation and transmission damage. Too much fluid may also force ATF to leak past the transmission seals.
adding a transmission fluid filter is a good idea if you race the car or regularly subject it to hard use.
Add half a quart at a time until the dipstick shows full. The transmission really isn't full yet because the dipstick should be checked when the fluid is hot, and the engine is idling with the gear selector in Park. So start the engine, drive the vehicle around the block, then recheck the fluid level while the engine is idling and add fluid as needed until the dipstick reads full.
one factor thats frequently over looked is the oil feed and return line internal size and line heat rating,THINK IT THRU, now it should be obvious that fittings tend to have smaller more restrictive holes thru them than the hose internal dimensions of the fittings used with that hose, a fitting designed for 3/8" hose wont allow full 3/8"hose or component oil flow rates, AN-6 is normally considered about equal to 3/8" but thats doesn,t tend to be true, AN-8 size fittings are usually used to get decent flow in a 3/8" oil cooler , if your oil cooler has 3/8" internal passages youll want an AN#8 line size too insure the MINIMUM 3/8" internal passage size is maintained , and you really NEED a full 1/2" or AN#10 size fittings and internal fluid transmission cooler lines to a fan cooled trans fluid cooler rated at at least a 24000 lb vehicle weight for race /performance use, and not restricted by use of the internal passage size of AN#6 fittings which are at best minimal and only delay the heat build-up related problems.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-13182
If I did it again Id select this trans cooler (pictured below) as the larger line size would help reduce flow restriction, its smaller width would make it easier to install,
THATS IMPORTANT!, MEASURE VERY CAREFULLY BEFORE ORDERING
I know several people that ordered trans coolers and found they would not fit into the originally intended location because they failed to correctly measure the intended location space, in ALL three dimensions,and over the whole space, before ordering , I know I failed to measure carefully so I was forced to place it where the spare tires normally mounted
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLD-DB30901/?rtype=10
Fluidyne High Performance DB30901 - Fluidyne Oil Cooler with Fan Kits
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairq ... 123_0.html
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInf ... ctancy.asp
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1847
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=4909&p=13548&hilit=trans+cooler#p13548
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=4059&hilit=trans+fluid#p4059
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=12989&hilit=trans+cooler#p12989
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=176&p=12473&hilit=trans+cooler#p12473
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/tsb/data ... 0-037a.pdf
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=912#p912
TRANSMISSION FLUIDS
Over the years, there have been a confusing array of different ATF types and specifications. Make sure the replacement fluid meets or exceeds all OEM requirements. Using the wrong type of fluid may cause transmission problems and damage.
Type F -- Introduced by Ford in 1967 for their automatics. Also used by Toyota.
Type CJ -- Special fluid for Ford C6 transmissions. Similar to Dexron II. Must not be used in automatics that require Type F. Can be replaced with Mercon or Mercon V.
Type H -- Another limited Ford spec that differs from both Dexron and Type F. Can be replaced with Mercon or Mercon V.
Mercon -- Ford fluid introduced in 1987, very similar to Dexron II. Okay for all earlier Fords except those that require Type F. As of July 1, 2007, the production and licensing of Mercon ATF by Ford ends. Ford says applications that require Mercon ATF can now be serviced with Mercon V. See Ford TSB 06144 for more information.
Mercon V -- Replaces Mercon. Introduced in 1997 for Ranger, Explorer V6 and Aerostar, and 1998 & up Windstar, Taurus/Sable and Continental. This is the current ATF for most late model Ford products. See Ford TSB 06144 for more information.
Mercon SP -- Latest friction-modified ATF for Ford TorqShift Transmissions only. Do NOT use in transmissions that require Mercon or Mercon V. See Ford TSB 06144 for more information.
Dexron -- General Motors original ATF for automatics.
Dexron II -- Improved GM formula with better viscosity control and additional oxidation inhibitors. Can be used in place of Dexron.
Dexron IIE -- GM fluid for electronic transmissions.
Dexron III -- Replaces Dexron IIE and adds improved oxidation and corrosion control in GM electronic automatics.
Dexron III (H) -- Improved version of Dexron III released in 2003.
Dexron III/Saturn -- A special fluid spec for Saturns.
Dexron-VI -- Introduced in 2006 for GM Hydra-Matic 6L80 6-speed rear-wheel-drive transmissions. Dexron VI now replaces Dexron III and II, and can be used in GM or import transmissions that formerly specified Dexron III or II.
Chrysler 7176 -- For Chrysler FWD transaxles.
Chrysler 7176D (ATF+2) -- Adds improved cold temperature flow and oxidation resistance. Introduced 1997.
Chrysler 7176E (ATF+3) -- Adds improved shear stability and uses a higher quality base oil. Required for four-speed automatics (do NOT use Dexron or Mercon as a substitute).
Chrysler ATF+4 (ATE) -- Introduced in 1998, ATF+4 is synthetic and replaces the previous ATF+3 fluid. Used primarily for 2000 and 2001 vehicles, it can also be used in earlier Chrysler transmissions (except 1999 and older minivans with 41TE/AE transmission). ATF+3 should continue to be used for 1999 and earlier minivans because of the potential for torque converter shudder during break in.
NOTE:Chrysler ATF+4 Must always be used in vehicles that were originally filled with ATF+4. The red dye used in ATF+4 is not permanent. As the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Therefore, do not relay on the color and odor of ATF+4 to determine if the fluid needs to be changed. Follow the OEM recommended service interval.
Chrysler ATF+5 for 2002 and newer models.
IMPORT APPLICATIONS:
BMW LT7114l or LA2634 -- Special formula for BMW transmissions.
Genuine Honda ZL ATF -- Special ATF for Honda automatics (except CVT applications).
Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II & SP-Ill -- Special formula ATFs for Mitsubishi transmissions.
Nissan J-Matic -- Special formula for Nissan transmissions.
Toyota Type T, T-III & T-IV -- Special formula ATFs for Toyota and Lexus transmissions.
NOTE: There are a number of aftermarket synthetic ATF fluids that claim to meet numerous OEM requirements. Refer to the product label for approved applications.
DEXRON-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission/transaxel in place of DEXRON-III (i.e. topping off the fluid int the event of a repair or fluid change.) DEXRON-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON for use in automatic tranmissions/transaxels.
Dexron VI is completely compatible with all GM automatic transmissions using dextron 3 in the past.
that does not mean its a substitute for all auto trans fluids or mercon
Most owner's manuals say it isn't necessary. Yeah, right. That's why transmission shops are making a fortune replacing burned out automatic transmissions.
For optimum protection, change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles (unless you have a new vehicle that is filled with Dexron III ATF which is supposed to be good for 100,000 miles).
Why Atf Wears Out
An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads.
It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.
At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits. The only way to repair the damage now is with an overhaul -- a job which can easily run upwards of $1500 on a late model front-wheel drive car or minivan.
As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!
At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up.
If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.
On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.!
Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.
Any number of things can push ATF temperatures beyond the system's ability to maintain safe limits: towing a trailer, mountain driving, driving at sustained high speeds during hot weather, stop-and-go driving in city traffic, "rocking" an automatic transmission from drive to reverse to free a tire from mud or snow, etc. Problems in the cooling system itself such as a low coolant level, a defective cooling fan, fan clutch, thermostat or water pump, an obstructed radiator, etc., will also diminish ATF cooling efficiency. In some cases, transmission overheating can even lead to engine coolant overheating! That's why there's a good demand for auxiliary add-on transmission coolers.
Auxiliary Cooling
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.
Atf Fluid Types
What kind of automatic transmission fluid should you use in your transmission? The type specified in your owner's manual or printed on the transmission dipstick.
For older Ford automatics and certain imports, Type "F" is usually required. Most Fords since the 1980s require "Mercon" fluid, which is Ford's equivalent of Dexron II.
For General Motors, Chrysler and other imports, Dexron II is usually specified.
NOTE: Some newer vehicles with electronically-controlled transmissions require Dexron IIe or Dexron III fluid. GM says its new long-life Dexron III fluid can be substituted for Dexron II in older vehicle applications.
CAUTION: Using the wrong type of fluid can affect the way the transmission shifts and feels. Using Type F fluid in an application that calls for Dexron II may make the transmission shift too harshly. Using Dexron II in a transmission that requires Type F may allow the transmission to slip under heavy load, which can accelerate clutch wear.
Changing The Fluid
It's a messy job because there's no drain plug to change the fluid, but you can do it yourself if you're so inclined. To change the fluid, you have to get under your vehicle and remove the pan from the bottom of the transmission.
When you loosen the pan, fluid will start to dribble out in all directions so you need a fairly large catch pan. You should also know that removing the pan doesn't drain all of the old fluid out of the transmission. Approximately a third of the old fluid will still be in the torque converter. There's no drain plug on the converter so you're really only doing a partial fluid change. Even so, a partial fluid change is better than no fluid change at all.
A typical fluid change will require anywhere from 3 to 6 quarts of ATF depending on the application, a new filter and a pan gasket (or RTV sealer) for the transmission pan. The pan must be thoroughly cleaned prior to reinstallation. This includes wiping all fluid residue from the inside of the pan and scraping all traces of the old gasket from the pan's sealing surface. Don't forget to clean the mounting flange on the transmission, too.
When the new filter is installed, be sure it is mounted in the exact same position as the original and that any O-rings or other gaskets have been properly positioned prior to tightening the bolts. Then tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's recommended specs.
When refilling the transmission with fresh fluid, be careful not to allow any dirt or debris to enter the dipstick tube. Using a long-neck funnel with a built-in screen is recommended.
CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission. Too much fluid can cause the fluid to foam, which in turn can lead to erratic shifting, oil starvation and transmission damage. Too much fluid may also force ATF to leak past the transmission seals.
adding a transmission fluid filter is a good idea if you race the car or regularly subject it to hard use.
Add half a quart at a time until the dipstick shows full. The transmission really isn't full yet because the dipstick should be checked when the fluid is hot, and the engine is idling with the gear selector in Park. So start the engine, drive the vehicle around the block, then recheck the fluid level while the engine is idling and add fluid as needed until the dipstick reads full.
one factor thats frequently over looked is the oil feed and return line internal size and line heat rating,THINK IT THRU, now it should be obvious that fittings tend to have smaller more restrictive holes thru them than the hose internal dimensions of the fittings used with that hose, a fitting designed for 3/8" hose wont allow full 3/8"hose or component oil flow rates, AN-6 is normally considered about equal to 3/8" but thats doesn,t tend to be true, AN-8 size fittings are usually used to get decent flow in a 3/8" oil cooler , if your oil cooler has 3/8" internal passages youll want an AN#8 line size too insure the MINIMUM 3/8" internal passage size is maintained , and you really NEED a full 1/2" or AN#10 size fittings and internal fluid transmission cooler lines to a fan cooled trans fluid cooler rated at at least a 24000 lb vehicle weight for race /performance use, and not restricted by use of the internal passage size of AN#6 fittings which are at best minimal and only delay the heat build-up related problems.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-13182
If I did it again Id select this trans cooler (pictured below) as the larger line size would help reduce flow restriction, its smaller width would make it easier to install,
THATS IMPORTANT!, MEASURE VERY CAREFULLY BEFORE ORDERING
I know several people that ordered trans coolers and found they would not fit into the originally intended location because they failed to correctly measure the intended location space, in ALL three dimensions,and over the whole space, before ordering , I know I failed to measure carefully so I was forced to place it where the spare tires normally mounted
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLD-DB30901/?rtype=10
Fluidyne High Performance DB30901 - Fluidyne Oil Cooler with Fan Kits
Last edited by a moderator: