Walde's -78 SA

Walde

Well-Known Member
Well. Since the Project -86 is still hibernating I guess it would make some sense to try to continue with the -78. After all it has been sitting there since 2009 or so. :oops:

I have most of the parts so now it is just a matter of finding the energy to put them together and getting it on the road by May.

At least I managed to find the main parts:

P1000194B.jpg


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Thanks for the kind words - if I was handy and capable I could build things myself but unfortunately that is not the case. :idea: IIRC this was one of those unclaimed engines they had ready to ship. It had what I wished ie. HEI and RPM Air gap.

One item I need to decide quite soon is

pilot bushing
ram-bu656_w.jpg


or

pilot needle bearing?
MOR-41100.jpg


Some sources say that the bushing is the way to go to avoid an extra item that can break. Any cons with the bushing?
 
Walde said:
I have most of the parts so now it is just a matter of finding the energy to put them together and getting it on the road by May.

At least I managed to find the main parts:

Don't look at whole of the project and how much there is to do, but look at
what's the first step to getting closer to finished.

I would agree, you did find the major parts, although i think there are a few
more that I would consider major !!! :p

 
Where does this plastic thingy go? :?

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Frame is a bit sturdy - we tend to overdimension things a bit. :mrgreen:
 

Wow, can't say I've seen anything like that before! Guess you get your exercise
running around to all those hoists trying to keep the body somewhat level.

 
I was on the other side and my dad on the other. We hoisted it up an inch or two at the time balancing the front every now and then. When the time to put the body back on comes I think we will need three persons as one will have to keep an eye on bolts and such.
 
Walde said:
Where does this plastic thingy go? :?

P1000114.JPG


Frame is a bit sturdy - we tend to overdimension things a bit. :mrgreen:

Ummm, that's impressive... and yet a bit unsettling somehow...
 
that color combo with the red pinstripe and the red interior is gorgeous... and that uh, body lift hoist device? is brilliant
 
Sorry to bother but there are some basic things I need to understand first to get them sorted. The first one is the correct oil level in the pan.

The combination of Dart SHP block, stroker crank and Canton 7 litre oil pan leave me lost when it comes to the correct oil level. I could of course put in 7 litres of oil and pray but that's not exactly the way I wish to do things.

As I do not know where the dipstick marks relate in there then I suppose that the best way would be to remove the oil pan and check, right?

I robbed these from Grumpy:
mor-20195.jpg

Oilpan.jpg


Oillevel.jpg


If I understand this correctly all I need to do is to pull the oil pan and put a ruler or such along the lowest point of the windage screen, put the dipstick that is to be used in and mark that lowest level as max line for oil?
 
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yes your basically correct , but keep in mind oil tends to slosh to different locations under higher G loads when braking accelerating or making high speed turns

Oilpan.jpg


Oillevel.jpg



keep in mind that while the engines running about 1.5 to 2 quarts will be in the upper engine like the valve covers,lifter gallery , oil passages etc. thus lowering the effective level of oil in the sump significantly, compared to its level while sitting un- running while your looking at the oil level on the dip-stick
measure the distance from the oil pan, mounting rails on the block up to the cranks counter weights, lets assume its 3" here, then measure your oil pan depth and subtract that 3", mark that 3" depth inside the oil pan adjacent to the rear most counter weight,and fill it to the mark, counting the quarts as you fill it. mark the dipstick to show the liquid at that level, remember most engines will be installed at a slight rearward slope angle, and a windage screen should be installed at a distance of about 1/8" outside the ARC of the rotating assembly, and a slosh plate and gated baffles just under the windage tray should help control oil movement away from the oil pump pick-up in the sump under hard acceleration or braking (look at the pictures below)

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814&p=22651&hilit=dipstick+water#p22651

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I'm particularly slow today :oops: :

If I understand this correctly, max oil level is the lowest point of counterweight?
 
yes thats usually a good place to set it, but just a side note, I purchased an aftermarket 6-8 quart rated oil pan for my 1985 corvette with its 383, a fabricated an extended sump so if its filled to the counter weight depth it holds almost 11 quarts, I generally run 9-10 quarts, but that includes the volume in the oil cooler.
every one seems mesmerized by the idea of purchasing and installing parts like big lopey cams and intake manifolds, but its a well designed lubrication and cooling system that helps the engine live under stress.
KEEP IN MIND the object is not to have a certain oil level, its to keep the oil pump pick-up covered and maintain consistent pressurized oil flow on all the moving components as oil flow cools and lubricates those surfaces, and in the case of bearings supports and separates the moving surfaces
I ran across these first two pictures, on a different site and felt they could be useful as a teaching aid,
the owner obviously has installed a slosh baffle gate in the lower sump and the rear area has what appears to be a partial windage screen, obviously this will function better than if he had not taken any effort and simply installed a open oil pan sump like most cars engines come with, but he stopped well short of the ideal oil control level that could have been reached.
I think the screening must have been having a clearance issue in the forward area of the oil pan under the forward four cylinders from the look of the way the screen was cut, now assuming there was room and no suspension or cross member prevented it a deeper pan or modifying the current oil pan seems like an option, a solid sheet metal horizontal upper sump slosh baffle should have extended back under the windage screen , and over the oil pan sump at the level of the upper oil pan floor ,well past the location of the swinging oil gate , to prevent oil from rushing forward under hard braking, not having the upper plate in place defeats a great deal of the purpose of having the lower slosh gate
(similar to the third picture)
KEEP IN MIND THERES SEVERAL THINGS GOING ON IN A PROPERLY DESIGNED OIL PAN
THE MAIN OBJECT IS TO MAINTAIN A CONSTANT DEPENDABLE SUPPLY OF OIL OVER THE OIL PUMP PICK UP, and REDUCE THE RESISTANCE THE SPINNING CRANK SEES PUSHING RETURNING OIL AROUND IN THE CRANK CASE
(1)the upper full length slosh plate,over the baffles and gates direct oil to the oil pump
(2)the screen allows oil to flow along the upper surface of the slosh plate back to the sump without the spinning crank assembly picking it up and circulating it in the crank case
(3)the screen shears off oil flow passing over its surface and directs oil into protected routes back to the sump

parts345s.jpg

parts345s1.jpg

ChevyOilingPluga.jpg

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the area behind the screen but over the sump forms a semi-protected path for oil flow forced

by the spinning crank assembly to easily travel back to the sump. yet prevents oil slosh under hard braking
hamoilpaa.jpg

a windage screen like these mounted over the slosh plate adds a good deal more efficiency
windage%20screen%20010.JPG

IMAG0741.jpg

IMAG0744.jpg


HERES A DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS OIL PAN,the oil pan below LACKS a SLOSH PLATE over the sump area and has very limited windage protection of the oil in the sump as a result, so even though it may look impressive it will likely not prevent oil windage effectively or force oil back into the sump or protect and trap oil under high g-loads during cornering or braking

Pan1zx.jpg

Pan2zx.jpg

Pan3zx.jpg

there are some nice commercially made semi custom oil pans, but if you can weld and fabricate sheet metal you can custom build something thats a perfect fit to your chassis and fits your application exactly, and don,t ignore an oil accumulator, and remote mounted oil filters and remote mount fan equipped oil coolers as an additional option, to add capacity and cooling

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http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/htm ... s_bbc.html


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http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/htm ... s_sbc.html

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viewtopic.php?f=80&t=10514&p=44478&hilit=corvette+quart#p44478
 
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