Walde's -78 SA

We were changing the upper and lower control arm bushings today and took a look at the steering box as well.

There is some play in the middle but the more worrying detail is in the input shaft. When I rotated the input shaft it moves quite freely but there is a clear and sharp "step" or "slot" in there somewhere one after the other as I rotate. This happens to both directions.

Possibly the whole worm thingy is shot, right? :cry:
 
could you describe that a bit more clearly and detail the info or problem so I can understand what your referring to?
I think your saying that as you turn the steering wheel the movement of the input shaft rotation is NOT smoothly directed thru the steering box but it tends to result in an intermittent or stop/start ratcheting movement on the output side of the steering box connected to the steering linkage?
 
When I have the loose steering box on the table and turn the input shaft it turns quite freely but I feel some sort of steps or snaps in the input shaft although it turns constantly. The output shaft however moves at the same time smoothly.

Somewhat difficult to describe but it feels that everything is not as it should inside the steering box.
 
yes that does sound like well worn steering gear meshing , if its not too hard to locate or expensive too replace that might be an option, yes theres a stud with a lock nut that allows you to take up some slack in the contact area, but its rarely all that effective
 
Thanks, mate.

Eckler's - among others - have a repair kit available but also a fellow Corvette guy is selling his repaired steering box. If that has said Eckler's kit or similar I might buy that and save several weeks and some money as well.

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-steering-gear-box-rebuild-kit-1969-1982.html

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I decided to buy above mentioned buddy's fully repaired and unused steering box - it cost less than that Eckler's kit and it has this kit installed. Which is nice. :cool:
 
About starters and alternator:

I would need to choose a starter and an alternator and order them. Some advise would be appreciated.

Starter

IIRC engine has about 10.25:1 compression, no idea of dynamic compression ratio - did check that once but have forgotten results. Wasn't too bad, though. It is built inside and around a Dart SHP block. Need to check if starter bolts are staggered or inline.

I bought this Powermaster 9004 for 383" of my -86. Would this be OK for the 427" as well or something else?

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http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-9004/overview/
 
IIRC my DeWitt's radiator is equipped with two Spal fans. I don't remember how many watts they take.

How big alternator do I need? 100 amps or bigger? And what do you think, is the original 10SI or 12SI?

Any idea which brand are OK? I would not like to do any rewiring so would prefer a plug and play alternator.
 
Well, nothing much to report if not about cleaning up the garage.

I had these parts on the shelf for a while with the vague idea of making my -78 as something that it is not meant to be soo I decided to sell these and found a fellow who agreed to buy them.

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Instead I will put the suspension together wil stock parts updated with Energy Suspension bushings and Moog ball joints. I have a set of KYB gas shocks which still seem to have the charge intact. I got a new set of 450 lbs front springs and I recall that I have a VBP 330 lbs fiberglass spring somewhere. A set of new antirollbars should be there as well.
 
Now, back in the day when I had slightly more money than brain I lost it altogether after suspension package and thought that the car needs to stop as well. So after a bit of searching I settled for this Wilwood kit with 6 piston front and 4 piston rear calipers and big discs. IIRC the calipers would barely fit inside a 17" wheel with max. 5 millimeters clearance. Stupid is as stupid does... :oops:

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To put this kit on my -78 would require in reality 18" wheels to make them fit in. And 18" wheels need 18" tyres and that wheel + tyre set would not be cheap so I would better off by selling this brake kit.

This in mind we checked my stock calipers and noted that
- front calipers are with SS sleeves
- front caliper pistons and seals need to be changed
- rear calipers do not have SS sleeves
- rear caliper pistons are OK and need just new seals
- master cylinder will need a seal kit
- but since a Raybestos master cylinder is just $20 and an AC Delco $40 I think I better get a new instead
- a new brake booster would be good to get while we are at it
- and a set of brake hoses and stock AC Delco pads

Decisions, decisions...
 
wow! when I see guys selling off, bunches of new in the box and un-used components, I usually can,t quite make up my mind if this is a case of simply changing your goals or car projects in mid stream, or finding that the components already purchased , in inventory don,t meet the intended goals?
yes Ive been there in the past, finding Ive purchased components that really don,t match the cars intended build, but Ive rarely got all my money out of the resold parts even when they were un-opened boxes so I generally try very hard to think thru my goals and make rather detailed lists as to what Ill need and try to minimize that potential cash flow loss.
yes its almost UN-avoidable at times, and Ive certainly got some great deals picking up parts from guys trying to recoup a bit of cash on parts that way.
and BTW looking over what your thinking of selling off, its rather obvious you have good judgement in selecting quality components, rather than cheap trash, so congrats on that aspect of your builds, as knowing the difference and taking the effort to seek out the better quality components goes a long way to insure a well built finished car.
I hope you recoup most of your cash so that you can build exactly what you really want!
 
I'd say goals have changed and even if/when I don't get what I paid for those selling the parts 'seems' the best way to go. I sold the suspension kit several weeks ago and still don't regret so it was the way to go.

Haven't quite fully decided about the brakes yet. If, and that's a big if, I would keep them it would mean a set of 18" wheels and for me it would most likely mean Centerline Auto Drags or Champ 506s. Although I don't much care for the mirror shine of these moderns versions.

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Now, if anyone would make an affordable steel wheel in 17" or 18" like for example Cragar Black D I'd be interested.

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