where do you bolt the engine tilter chains to the engine

[grumpyvette]

Ive used 2 1/2" long 3/8-16 grade 8 bolts, with fender washers and lift chains on the engine tilter,. They would not screw in all the way but are screwed in all the way finger tight, the idea is to not stress the heads or threads in the heads or the intake but have a very strong grip on the engine and if the bolts bend a bit its no big deal at all..

btw this was not my engine in the picture, make sure you use a swivel between the crane and the leveler and hook the leveler up so the crank is in the front of the engine or in some cases the windshield and crank on the leveler might pose a clearance issue

Ive used one like this for decades,
BUY AND USE A 3 TON SWIVEL HOOK, ON YOUR ENGINE CRANE, ITS ONE OF THE BEST $20 deals youll ever get

https://www.e-rigging.com/3-ton-alloy-swivel-hoist-hook

the plate type engine lift is in my opinion a poor substitute for a engine tilter that fastens to the 4 end corners of the engine,
(be sure to always position the crank handle toward the engine front)

notice in the picture below the cranks on the WRONG LOCATION
( FOR SOME REASON< THIS IS A COMMON SCREW-UP IN THE TOOLS APPLICATION)

its also a very good idea to remove the distributor and carburetor from the engine,
during the engine install process
and position the leveler body down within 3"-4" of the carb mount flange
to maximize the engine crane lift capacity over fenders and radiators

BTW when you go to mount the engine to your engine stand, most engine stands have those adjustable tool heads and over size pipe sections in the mount head, the engine mount bolts slide thru ,too bolt the engine, firmly to the tool head, the cure, to taking up the sloppy slack is to first slide two - or three 3/8" fender washers up against the bolt head to prevent the bolts from sliding thru those pipe section and then sliding a 3" section of 3/8" fuel line over the bolt shank before sliding the bolt into the pipe section so it stays roughly centered in the mount head, you'll want about 1/2" minimum-3/4" thread to engage the engine blocks threaded bell housing mount holes.
don,t forget to grease the support shaft on the tool head before inserting it into the engine stand or it will be difficult to rotate once the engines weight is bearing on the sliide collar

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-fold ... 35915.html


READ
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1940

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... -100594356

 

[grumpyvette]

now as I pointed out previously in a different thread,
swapping to much better quality and taller set of swivel caster wheels, that will be far superior too the small flimsy steel roller casters,
that came on the engine crane, or engine stand,
allows the engine stands to easily roll under the crane legs,
or
the engine crane legs to scoot under the taller engine stand legs,
allowing an easy engine transfer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-cus ... 46819.html

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200337094_200337094
prices, sizes and weight carry capacity, and having brakes built into the design of the caster, vary so shop carefully

yes its going to add some expense, (about $80 if you catch these on sale) but if you add the optional larger casters to an engine stand it allows you to maneuver the legs of the stand so they roll over the crane

yes that issue of the legs on the crane not allowing the engine stand too roll into a location close enough under the crane too allow a direct transfer is an all too common issue I solved with swapping the casters on the engine stands thus they can allow the crane legs too slide under the stand legs o the crane can align with the stand to off load the engine\

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rotator-for-engine-stand.734137/#post-8155589

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-rubber-heavy-duty-cushion-tire-swivel-caster-with-brake-61836.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-from-crane-to-engine-stand.11524/#post-53175

If you do build a second performance engine rather than modify your single existing original cars engine,theres some advantages, that us older geezers have come to appreciate at times.
as a general rule, its best to take your time and build a separate performance engine that you can swap into the car over a weekend, this has several advantages
(1) you will not be tying up the car, in an un-driveable condition waiting for weeks on parts to arrive or waiting on machine work to be done,
and you can always swap the original engine back into the car,
to have the car as dependable transportation while the performance engines being built or worked on.
(2) you can sell either engine separately from the car itself and still have a drive-able car.
(3)having your performance engine out on an engine stand certainly makes it far easier to work on.
(4) having a second engine available allows you to drive the car while you make repairs on the original engine
(5) if you screw something up, your not effectively stuck with a non-driveable car for long.
(6) with some experience you,ll find an engine swap between two similar engines can be done in a day , or at most a weekend by yourself,
with a skilled and experienced local buddy, some decent tools ,
and a shop with an engine crane and a lift or at least (4) 12 ton jack stands,
and a decent floor jack ..a long afternoon!

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-removal.699/#post-972

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-crane-and-engine-stand-mods-accesories.3724/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...paring-two-harbor-freight-engine-cranes.8566/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/you-need-decent-jack-stands.672/