why use anti seize paste

[grumpyvette]

Aluminum heads and spark plug seizure, one factor I see thats becoming more common with the newer cars engines as aluminum is used for the cylinder heads more and more is that spark plugs on newer cars can last for 100K miles and that allows time for thousands of heat and cooling cycles, and corrosion to take place in the cylinder head threads,
I see this, spark plug thread damage rather frequently on the LT1 heads now that the cars are 20 plus years old.
I was curious how many of you with high miles like, 80K- 100k or more have found thread seizure to be an issue when you went to change your spark plugs . This is a common problem with aluminum heads, that have had plugs threaded into the heads and left without being changed for years.
it is recommended on most cars that use aluminum cylinder heads to use anti-seize on the plug threads before each is installed,
but if it was not used before the last set of plugs was installed and its been a few years , when you try to remove the plugs it can pull or damage the threads out with the plugs being removed , ruining the head, requiring an expensive repair.. When I am removing anything from an aluminum head or block, that seems to be seized a spray of 50% acetone and 50% marvel mystery oil as a penetration oil used to seep into the threads , this penetrating oil will tend to help, loosen the threads in the head.
If you suspect the threads are binding ,don,t force it and ruin the heads, let the repeated spray mix, you spray, on the heads where the plugs are inserted, seep in over several days if necessary.
Since our plugs are supposed to last 50K- 100k, between the necessity to be replaced, I thought I would make anyone aware of the potential problem before it happens. I have seen this thread binding problem occasionally , especially on older LT1-4 engines, the spray lubricant and penetrating oil works, at loosening old plugs, but having anti seize on the plug threads and not getting into a rush and cross threading, or over tightening the plugs is also a good way to avoid the problem.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/installation.asp

http://www.autolite.com/product-information/tech-specs.aspx

http://www.autolite.com/media/11853/torquespecs.pdf

removing loctited ford and similar frame/body mount bolts

yes the tools expensive and you probably won't use it regularly, but if you've ever had to partially remove the trucks interior to get the bolts locking nuts out, from under the seats and carpet, you may see it as a BARGAIN...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

1. 
   Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads, being careful not to get any near the lower threads.
2. Thread one of the new plugs into the spark plug hole until you can no longer turn it with your fingers, then use a torque wrench to tighten it to the specification listed in your service manual. It is a good idea to slip a short length of rubber hose over the end of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place. The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread in the hole – this will prevent damaged threads.

yes there are repair inserts but this is a repair best done by a good machine shop with the heads off the car, making it a time consuming and expensive repair
if you plug comes out with aluminum stuck in the threads like this the heads damaged

oil pump mods & related info

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=3%2F4%22%20tube%20oil%20pump%20pickups https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?q=big+block+chevy+oil+pumps&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

there IS BY DESIGN, some thread clearance between the spark plug threads and cylinder head threads, use of anti-seize on those threads reduces the area moisture can cause corrosion on.

 

[grumpyvette]

GRUMPY?< I got gifted a can of Fel-Pro C5-A copper based anti-seize lubricant from an old gent who worked on the Mack Trucks assembly line. He punched a small hole in the lid big enough for an acid brush. Over the years this compound has dried out some...the instructions say to keep the lid on tight and to "not use thinner of any type."

I'm not so cheap that I cannot buy a brand new supply. But I've become attached to that old half-full can and think of him every time I smear some of that lubricant on a threaded fastener. It says 'Exclusive formula suspends copper and graphite in a high quality grease.'

Would any DC member have a recommendation for something to add to the remaining contents to make it, for want of a better word, spreadable again?

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/Thread-galling.aspx

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Galling.pdf

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-intake-manifold-vs-buy-new.11258/#post-50891

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...afety-wire-locking-fasteners.4306/#post-48044

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-rusted-broken-bolts.807/#post-43180

I would not hesitate for a second to put a couple tablespoons of marvel mystery oil and pour a fresh can of anti seize into that and mix the result slurry really well,in that can of old dried out anti-seize,and stir up the results for about 10 minutes I can,t even think it would do a darn thing but make the result more easily used with a brush

BTW if you really want bolt threads to stay easy to remove , pour in a table spoon of this powder before you stir it up, it makes GRAPHITE look like old rocks, moly dust is slicker that , as my dad used to say "a red hot nickle on a sheet of dry ice thats on a 45 degree incline"
http://www.opticsplanet.com/lyman-super-moly-superfine-grade-moly-powder-7631412.html

youll never have a problem getting the threads loose, you might need to safety wire the nuts to keep them from spinning off on their own

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4733&p=12852&hilit=cotter+pins#p12852

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4306&p=11353&hilit=safety+wire#p11353

 

[87vette81big]

I see a Pontiac 400 Ci V8 being built by You Grumpy.
2-bolt mains.
Factory rods with ARP Bolts.
I can spot 3-inch main caps.
400 Crankshaft countet weight I recognize.
Along with 400 crankshaft flange.
All Pontiac V8's had Factory solid dowel alignment pins for main caps.
Also your using the Ram Air 4 oil pump.
60psi set pressure.
Melling M54D. Good choice for street-strip engine.
Interesting the oil pickup tube is Pinned in place.
Keep from vibrating loose.

BR

 

[philly]

Ive never used anti seize on any of my datsuns and never had a need to, ive pulled spark plugs out of quater million + mile motors and never had an issue. however the number 7 on the callaway was seized with only 50k miles and it was the stock plug that had never been replaced although the other seven had at some point. we did use anti seize on that car after seeing that. i change spark plugs so often and check them frequently for signs of detonation and a/f reading that i dont think i would ever let a set of plugs sit for 100k miles. or 10k for that matter. im always making changes and the spark plug is an easy place to diagnose and read outcomes of inputs i place in other parts of the engine, ignition timing most frequently.

 

[grumpyvette]

I know several guys that have damaged L98 AND LT1 corvette aluminum cylinder heads on the EARLIER TPI cars and similar aluminum heads on later LT1 corvettes because some locations are a BITCH to get too when changing the spark plugs, so cross threading the plugs has happened, due to the difficulty of getting the plugs replaced using your fingers rather than some tool and not having an easily accessible location where you can FEEL the threads smoothly engage when starting, the threads, mating.
if you plug comes out with aluminum stuck in the threads like this the heads damaged

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-rusted-broken-bolts.807/#post-43180

aluminum is significantly softer and weaker than cast iron, especially when its been repeatedly heat cycled or the spark plug threads were subjected of moisture that can cause corrosion to take place
anti seize paste, in many cases, is generally a mix of powdered aluminum,zinc,graphite and copper, suspended in high temp synthetic or lithium grease or waxes, that forms a effective film barrier to prevent threads corroding and binding, due to oxides forming in the thread gaps, it also tends to allow the threads to engage with less force or torque required, making it much easier for a hobbiest or mechanic to feel the plug bottom out and reduce the tendency to over tighten the plugs
guys get frustrated ,especially on the rear pass side cylinders where access is a P.I.T.A. on most c4 corvettes.
this can lead to guys swapping only some of the plugs rather than all the plugs which obviously can result in less than ideal results on durability and performance or damage to the cylinder heads

using anti-seize paste on bolt or stud threads helps prevent future problems

keep shop rags and solvent handy,

READ THESE THREADs
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-hard-to-access-plugs.962/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-in-intake-won-t-come-out.11259/#post-50900

 

[87vette81big]

Those Anti Seize sticks are Handy Grumpy.
Problem is your fellow mechanic borrows it & never gives it back.
Like a Bank Ball Point Pen.
Used & its gone Forever.