Call Tobin at Kore 3. He's the C5-6 to classic iron guru. He can set you up. He's very very knowledgeable and will set you up correctly. I've spoken with him in the past and everyone I know who's dealt with him and purchased from him is happy. He can explain what you'll need to do, and buy, in order to use the brakes. In short, you'll be replacing almost the entire brake system. New master, new combination valve, new lines, new flex hoses, new park brake cables, probably front spindles, and you may need to modify the brake pedal to change the clevis position to change the pedal ratio. As far as I know (off the top of my head) the only thing you might be able to keep is the power booster if the car was originally a power brake car.
You can see the brackets etc. here
http://www.kore3.com/products.php?cat=26 but call him, the amount you'll learn from him is invaluable.
Do you have the fronts and rears? Rotors? Pads?
This is the kind of work I do for customers building/rebuilding classics. Brake upgrades, suspensions, drive line installs, etc. I'm picky and won't install brake systems unless I'm sure everything is matched and will perform. I'm an installer, not an engineer or brake guru who knows all the formulas involved that utilize pedal ratios, booster rates, piston diameters, brake pad coefficients, tire compounds, suspension rates, etc. so I use the experts to design and then I install. I just got the workup on the brakes for my Firebird the other day. I'll be using twin manual master cylinders with a cockpit adjustable balance bar with 14" 6 piston Baers all around with different pads for front/rear street and track use. To me it's worth the investment to hire an expert to figure out which piston diameter master cylinders, which brake pads, what pedal ratio I need and so on to maximize the brake performance based on the use of the car, weight, tires etc.
http://shop.ronsuttonracetechnology.com/shopping/?ic=7698