OK FIRST LOOK UP THE TRANSMISSIONS FLUID CAPACITY
HERES A LINK
https://www.monstertransmission.com/Transmission-Line-Pressures_ep_201-1.html
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...fo-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/#post-12989
http://fluidcapacity.com/
http://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/autotransfluid
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-cooler-info-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/
http://www.1st-synthetics.com/lit/B_pdf/WIX_racing_filters.pdf
when clearances allow
longer length, quality oil filters provide significantly larger surface area, this tends to both reduce pressure drop,
and increase the useful filtration time before the filter tends to partially clog due to trapped debris,
yes they still require frequent replacement but they tend to do a better job, over the same time frame
one of the most common mistakes less than experienced performance enthusiasts, face and very commonly over-look, is the fact that the internal cross sectional area on many hydraulic and fuel line fittings are considerably more restrictive to flow that the fuel limes or hydraulic lines inside diameter they were designed to be used with, and it varies a great deal between different manufacturers, now ideally the fittings internal passage cross sectional area is both consistent and the same or greater that the tube or hydraulic line size, it listed to match, , so a 1/2" inside diameter fuel line, or hydraulic lines?hoses, for example should have components for the connections and fittings that have significantly smaller internal cross sectional areas, it does you very little good to use lets say, AN#8 or half inch fuel lines if the internal cross sectional area of the connections and fitting used with those lines is only 3/8" or smaller in cross sectional area,this is an area where dealing with a local hydraulic supply shop that has the correct tools and fittings to custom fabricate your fuel lines, coolant or lubrication lines is a very good idea!
talk to a local professional at your local hydraulic supply, measure accurately, take the time to explain what your trying to accomplish and take several pictures to show them what your doing, and get them too fabricate any high pressure fuel or coolant lines and related fittings
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Up to 45 GPH= 3/4 GPM = 5/16" or -04 AN
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Up to 90 GPH = 1.5 GPM= 3/8" or -06 AN
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Up to 250 GPH =4.2 GPM= 1/2" or -08 AN
nearly ideal for transmission and oil coolers
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Up to 450 GPH =7.5 GPM= 5/8" or -10 AN
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Up to 900 GPH = 15GPM 3/4"or -12 AN
keep in mind most performance cars with an auto transmission and a higher rpm stall converter,
will need an auxiliary trans fluid cooler,
Id strongly suggest you find one with an electric fan and
1/2" or AN#8 line size as you'll want to allow a minimum of 2 gallons a minute trans fluid flow rate,
remember viscosity changes with temperature,
a dual transmission fluid filter doubles the filter surface area,
reducing the potential flow restriction,
and having long dual filters helps transfer heat,
from the fluid to outside air flow
its CRITICAL to keep the trans fluid clean and ideally changed about every 70K miles and use of a auxiliary cooler that keeps the fluid temp under about 170F is going to extend service life a good deal longer
Ive helped do at least 7 of these big block c4 corvette, engine swaps now for other people and obviously results vary with the components being used but most of the swaps required a trans cooler and Ive installed 2 now in the rear tire carrier area, 200f -230f temps on trans fluid are very common on stock transmissions, with stock original engines, if and when your beating the hell out of the trans racing, but 180f-210f on the street while cruising is more common using the stock radiator trans cooler in the lower radiator trans fluid cooler.
(still too hot for long term durability)
I had a larger than original capacity aluminum aftermarket radiator most of the time , in my corvette even with the current 383 sbc, and if I ran a 180f T-stat both the coolant and trans fluid tended to run about 190f UNTIL I swapped to a 3200 stall converter , where the temps jumped noticeably by about 20f higher, if I pushed the car ,but those temps dropped rapidly if I was just cruising in O.D. but I felt I needed a better system, to cool the trans fluid, adding the additional rear mount aux cooler drops temps to 150f-160f with the fan on and about 170f=180f with it off even if Im pushing the car so I wired a switch to the fan, and a sensor that turns the fan on at 175F
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13266
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13267
these in line fluid coolers like the one pictured above are not as effective as the larger surface area fan equipped fluid coolers
like the one below but theres no doubt they can be used to lower the transmission fluid or oil temps if,
your very limited on available space to mount a fluid cooler
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15850
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16759
http://static.summitracing.com/global/i ... -16759.pdf
internal cross sectional area of the fluid transfer lines matters, anything less than 1/2" or AN#8 can be restrictive to flow