IM only too aware that most guys have a timing light or at least know what they are used for and its just not that glamorous, but its a very necessary tool..
There's no question that timing lights are a rather basic tool,and are reasonably easy to use, but theres a great difference in accuracy between different models.
the basic concept is deceptively simple, get the ignition to light off the compressed cylinder full of that fuel/air mix at the exactly correct instant that will produce the best torque and least wasted pressure working against the piston to drive the rod and spin the crank.
naturally its nearly useless to try and time the ignition until you've carefully verified TDC marks on the damper are correct
To do that you need to know the exact piston location in its repetitive 720 degree cycle. by watching the TDC indicator mark on the damper in relation to a timing tab on the timing chain cover.
but accuracy is critical to success, get that ignition to fire a bit early and detonation can cause major problems, if its delayed in relation to the pistons location it will result in less effective pressure and a hotter exhaust header.
Many timing lights are less than consistent or accurate, nor can they give exactly consistent results.
MANY are cheaply constructed and not all that accurate. some won,t work well with solid core wire, some are heat sensitive. the type that allows you to set the timing advance or retard for the flashing strobe light,with a dial are usually not nearly as consistent.
if you own a couple timing lights check them all at the same engine at at least 3000 rpm, and you'll commonly see variations in the results and THATS BAD, if its off a couple degrees at 3000rpm, at 6000-7000rpm it can and probably will cause problems, when your engine timing is not even close to what you expect it to be.
The older model Sears Craftsman Timing Light (P/N A-2134) is usually consistent, MSD, makes their own, timing light (P/N 8990). that is also one of the better ones.
When your using a timing light you'll need to verify the battery connections are correct as to polarity, and the wires cant contact moving components like fans, fan belts and pulleys, you'll need to verify that only the wire from the #1 cylinder contacts the timing lights inductor clip, and that NOTHING contacts the hot headers, and you should NEVER wear a TIE or LOOSE clothing around a running engine!
http://www.ehow.com/how_4752560_use-timing-light.html
obviously getting the ignition timing correct in relation to the compression stroke and piston location in the engine will result in far less chance of detonation and piston damage or loss of potential hp, and getting the ignition advance curve correct is also critical, IVE generally found having full advance all in by about 2900-3100rpm is a good compromise and while the components used in the engine can change the results, full advance at about 36-38 degrees at 3100rpm is a good basic starting point
You should have three clips that come off the wires that are attached to the Timing light. The smaller two (usually, the ones that look like alligator clips, similar to the ones on jumper cables) attach to the battery matching Positive(+) to Negative(-). The other one goes over your 1st spark plug wire. By 1st, I mean the one for the number one cylinder. Start the engine and aim the timing light at the crankshaft pulley. It should flash at the exact moment the marked grove is at the top of the pulley.
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=365&p=1094&hilit=+firing+order#p1094
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1411
There's no question that timing lights are a rather basic tool,and are reasonably easy to use, but theres a great difference in accuracy between different models.
the basic concept is deceptively simple, get the ignition to light off the compressed cylinder full of that fuel/air mix at the exactly correct instant that will produce the best torque and least wasted pressure working against the piston to drive the rod and spin the crank.
naturally its nearly useless to try and time the ignition until you've carefully verified TDC marks on the damper are correct
To do that you need to know the exact piston location in its repetitive 720 degree cycle. by watching the TDC indicator mark on the damper in relation to a timing tab on the timing chain cover.
but accuracy is critical to success, get that ignition to fire a bit early and detonation can cause major problems, if its delayed in relation to the pistons location it will result in less effective pressure and a hotter exhaust header.
Many timing lights are less than consistent or accurate, nor can they give exactly consistent results.
MANY are cheaply constructed and not all that accurate. some won,t work well with solid core wire, some are heat sensitive. the type that allows you to set the timing advance or retard for the flashing strobe light,with a dial are usually not nearly as consistent.
if you own a couple timing lights check them all at the same engine at at least 3000 rpm, and you'll commonly see variations in the results and THATS BAD, if its off a couple degrees at 3000rpm, at 6000-7000rpm it can and probably will cause problems, when your engine timing is not even close to what you expect it to be.
The older model Sears Craftsman Timing Light (P/N A-2134) is usually consistent, MSD, makes their own, timing light (P/N 8990). that is also one of the better ones.
When your using a timing light you'll need to verify the battery connections are correct as to polarity, and the wires cant contact moving components like fans, fan belts and pulleys, you'll need to verify that only the wire from the #1 cylinder contacts the timing lights inductor clip, and that NOTHING contacts the hot headers, and you should NEVER wear a TIE or LOOSE clothing around a running engine!
http://www.ehow.com/how_4752560_use-timing-light.html
obviously getting the ignition timing correct in relation to the compression stroke and piston location in the engine will result in far less chance of detonation and piston damage or loss of potential hp, and getting the ignition advance curve correct is also critical, IVE generally found having full advance all in by about 2900-3100rpm is a good compromise and while the components used in the engine can change the results, full advance at about 36-38 degrees at 3100rpm is a good basic starting point
You should have three clips that come off the wires that are attached to the Timing light. The smaller two (usually, the ones that look like alligator clips, similar to the ones on jumper cables) attach to the battery matching Positive(+) to Negative(-). The other one goes over your 1st spark plug wire. By 1st, I mean the one for the number one cylinder. Start the engine and aim the timing light at the crankshaft pulley. It should flash at the exact moment the marked grove is at the top of the pulley.
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=365&p=1094&hilit=+firing+order#p1094
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1411