Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

See if you can get a look at a air gap intake, under the carb where it mounts there is a slot cut between each side. That slot cut in your perf rpm along with a 1 inch spacer will almost yeild the same results of the Air Gap intake. I saw video on YouTube about that and there is just a few HP/TQ difference after the slot is cut in the intake and the spacer is applied.
 
busterrm said:
See if you can get a look at a air gap intake, under the carb where it mounts there is a slot cut between each side. That slot cut in your perf rpm along with a 1 inch spacer will almost yeild the same results of the Air Gap intake. I saw video on YouTube about that and there is just a few HP/TQ difference after the slot is cut in the intake and the spacer is applied.
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Yeah, that's in the video I linked to back a page or so. I'll probably start off with it stock and then try the spacer... Once I start cutting out the centre wall, it get s little less reversible... :) But, I might try it and see if my butt can feel the difference..;)
 
Indycars said:
I decided I needed to replace the IK180 engine with the first camshaft Crane 110911. So same as above except they no longer have the same camshaft now. The darker lines are still the IK180 engine.

View attachment 5827
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I would use the IK 180 Heads.
Lost in Grumpys archives is an old article on actual street driving performance throttle response.
I read it in the past.
I know it as transient throttle response.

Your talking about just a 25 Hp theoretical loss going with 180's vs 200's.

Its a long forgotten secret.
I know it works better dirt track racing smaller port high velocity heads.

Its been 4 years now but with Dart 215's on a 419 ci sbc we actually ran slower lap to lap.
Non consistent throttle response.

Ass backwards to all.
Its true.

Poncho V8 Tech used.... You win with less.
 
that 25 is all up top prime example when I was buying my heads looking at the difference between the street head and race port. I had much better gains in the low and mid rpms with the street head instead of the high rpm hp. Street car likes low and mid full race likes high. Compromise is for the street.
 
keep in mind its the total combo NOT just the port and runner size alone,
within reasonable limits ,intake port size is one of the least important factors.
your dealing with factors that are interdependent, each change effects the way the other factors respond and interact,
there are ways to predict trends or compensate for changes
change the cam LSA
,duration and lift
engines compression ratio,
intake runner length
header primary diameter and length
and you could very easily find the larger ports made significantly better power.
ID much rather, be faced with a combo where I compensate for a cylinder head with a port size that might be a bit larger than ideal for the application than one thats a bit restrictive to flow, simply because a restrictive port limits upper rpm and peak power far more than a larger port tends to loose low speed responsiveness, because that is much easier to compensate for with changes to the intake, or cam timing or compression, header design etc.
volumetric.gif

EXFLOWZ4.jpg

exhaustpressure.jpg

USE THE CALCULATORS, YOULL, QUICKLY FIND THE LIMITATIONS
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html
http://www.wallaceracing.com/chokepoint.php
http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-49738

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-the-charts-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-a-better-cam-to-a-zz3-350-sbc.182/#post-216


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-intake-test.58/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lsa-effects-your-compression-torque-dcr.1070/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/porting-can-help.462/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seat-angles-and-air-flow.8460/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-backpressure-hurting-your-combo.495/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...spacers-and-related-intake-modification.1038/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sellecting-cylinder-heads.796/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...mbers-or-a-good-street-combo-your-after.5078/
 
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A Prevalent Problem is guys run out of $ Before the Engine is completed or even started Grumpy.

Done messing with SBC.
Just Big Blocks for me.
You can reuse much more BBC. Pontiac 455. Olds V8.
 
You can reuse much more BBC. Pontiac 455. Olds V8
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on that point I'll mostly agree!
example
http://www.maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm
and Id point out that swapping too a high compression set of forged pistons matched to a serious flat tappet solid lifter cam ,new valve springs , some mild port and bowl clean-up work,and a skilled tuner, can, make a very noticeable power increase in some formally mild big block combos

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pr...e=cxrecs&cx_navSource=related-bottom#cxrecs_s

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...e=cxrecs&cx_navSource=related-bottom#cxrecs_s

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1010-396-big-block-chevy-stroker-build/

http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...ds-550-horse-87-octane-big-block-on-a-budget/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...402-bbc-with-a-4-454-crank-or-even-4-25.2165/

https://www.airflowresearch.com/hot-rod-nov-2013-305cc-bbc.php

https://www.airflowresearch.com/car-craft-nov-2012-265cc-bbc.php

https://www.airflowresearch.com/vette-sept-2011-265cc-bbc.php
 
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JimmyDuncan said:
Yeah, that's in the video I linked to back a page or so. I'll probably start off with it stock and then try the spacer... Once I start cutting out the centre wall, it get s little less reversible... :) But, I might try it and see if my butt can feel the difference..;)
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That is the last thing I would do, I would start just the intake, then with the spacer, then if satisfaction isn't there have it machined into intake.
 
busterrm said:
That is the last thing I would do, I would start just the intake, then with the spacer, then if satisfaction isn't there have it machined into intake.
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For sure.. While it's probably possible to add the material back onto the intake after the fact, I'll probably not consider anything as drastic as machining it down till well down the track :)
 
Brian is right hurt allot of guys feelings with 6.6 olds 403 gears and race carb only torque is king on street with heavy car. Sbc money pit to build unless you keep it simple. Scat 9000 crank keith black pistons and little better than stock crank just be realistic. You already stated family cruiser keep it that. Build reliable 383 with some power not excessive or over expensive. Save the big buck build for the light car with a big engine. Similar age as you have young children there happiness comes first. Only reason I can afford a little is tattoo side money and airbrush work. Or I would be building the same engine you are. I personally like a solid lifter cam best power per $$$. But I lean towards the Brian spectrum more than the Grumpy spectrum. Maxx speed Hp vs. Street. Do not make the mistake of over investing into a sbc in a heavy car. Allot of good advise given but in the end I feel you are gonna be happy with a mild 383 street engine with good street manors and be carful with your gearing if you spend or plan on spending time on the highway with this.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Brian is right hurt allot of guys feelings with 6.6 olds 403 gears and race carb only torque is king on street with heavy car. Sbc money pit to build unless you keep it simple. Scat 9000 crank keith black pistons and little better than stock crank just be realistic. You already stated family cruiser keep it that. Build reliable 383 with some power not excessive or over expensive. Save the big buck build for the light car with a big engine. Similar age as you have young children there happiness comes first. Only reason I can afford a little is tattoo side money and airbrush work. Or I would be building the same engine you are. I personally like a solid lifter cam best power per $$$. But I lean towards the Brian spectrum more than the Grumpy spectrum. Maxx speed Hp vs. Street. Do not make the mistake of over investing into a sbc in a heavy car. Allot of good advise given but in the end I feel you are gonna be happy with a mild 383 street engine with good street manors and be carful with your gearing if you spend or plan on spending time on the highway with this.
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Yeah, thanks.. I really appreciate all the great advice on this awesome forum.. :D It's great to have you guys with the huge knowledge base sharing the practical stuff and to have posts like Brian's and yours that help me to pull my head in a little and remember that I am in it for the build journey and want to have fun driving it with the kids in the backseat in the future...

I'll have plenty of fun with a reliable, drivable combo and as you said I can save the over powered, light weight car for the future, when I have more experience, skill and knowledge :D

I hear you re: the gearing.. with the th350 trans I'll need to get some larger diameter tires and not go crazy with gear sizing to make the longer road trips bearable... Most highways nearby are limited to 60mph, and I'm happy to cruise at 55mph or so...
 
Dropped a mild 383 in my heavy beast.
I've got 26" diameter on the rear tires, 12 bolt 3:55 gears, th350.
When I get on the highway you might as well hold your conversation till you reach the destination.
My exhaust dumps at the back of the cab (which has no heat or sound dampening yet), that doesn't help at all.
It does cruise really nice around 55-60. Get to 70+ and it's screaming.

So much left to do...

Good luck on your build Jimmy, love the car.
 
Dropped a mild 383 in my heavy beast.
I've got 26" diameter on the rear tires, 12 bolt 3:55 gears, th350.
When I get on the highway you might as well hold your conversation till you reach the destination.
My exhaust dumps at the back of the cab (which has no heat or sound dampening yet), that doesn't help at all.
It does cruise really nice around 55-60. Get to 70+ and it's screaming.

So much left to do...

Good luck on your build Jimmy, love the car.
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modify a 200r4 transmission to hold the power levels and swap out that th350, on that car it will look and feel like a totally different combo

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/200r4-mod-info.7116/#post-23887

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/trans-dim/


http://www.transmissioncenter.net/200-4r.htm

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/49798-th200-4r-transmission-swap/

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/Transmission_Yoke_List.htm

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/tran.../200rebld.html

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/tran...transpage.html

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/extreme_duty_parts.htm

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/Tr...asurements.htm

http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html
 
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It seems that 200r4 transmissions are very hard to find over here..... Do they go under another name?

On the other hand the 700r4, which is also called a th700? was used in older cars here... But it seems the swap is much more involved and it doesn't sound like many people think much of the trans...?
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Not really just need a shorter drive shaft
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Oh, is that all....? Maybe have to move the trans mount too?

I thought I read about requiring other modifications related to the overdrive and lockup..? To be honest I haven't done a lot of research into the conversion.. But, there's lots of poo pooing the 700r4 online.. :rolleyes:

Would a stock 700r4 that's be checked and serviced handle a 400hp or so tank..? Keeping in mind that I will occasionally do a few skids and drag race on the odd occasion... ;)
 
 
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700r4 in stock form is not very strong and has weaknesses that need to be addressed but can be easily modified to accept the hp and torque you wish to use. Great transmission if built properly. Lock up can wired up a few different ways but the thing that kills more of these transmissions is improper installation of the TV cable. Which controls the the fluid pressure which many try to adjust mistakingly like the kickdown on th350. Either the th200-4r or the th700r4 are going to need modification for severe duty. The 700r4 has a 3.06 first gear that gets that big heavy car moving but it comes with a larger gap between 1st and 2nd than the 200-4r which is usually the big debate one vs. the other. The OD is awesome for highway usage great for a street use car.
 
In my chevelle the stock crossmember was used I am not positive if it was moved back for installation. As my father had the trans installed before he sold me the car. But the stock trans lines were used bolts right in. Again be realistic are you running slicks? Do you plan to howuch trans do you need? Is a trans swap in the budget? Is this gonna be a cruiser with some power or a dual purpose car?
 
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