Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

Since Jimmy is So young and money is definate Limited...
What can you he build for $3,000-4,000 dollars start to finish dropped into his car ?
Use production OEM Block. Production heads. Production valves.
Production crankshaft. Production Connecting Rods
Only aftermarket parts are valvetrain camshaft.
Aftermarket pistons and rings and bearings .
Production oil pan and windage tray.
Use a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft.
True 450-550 Hp installed in the car long tubes Big tubes.
Unmuffled open exhaust race HP.
500-550 FT/lbs torque.

It comes down to BBC.
Pontiac V8.
Olds 455-425.

SBC ?
 
Dropping in a 472-500 Caddie be good too. Stock rebuild. Hot cammed.
 
I have a used but working q-jet and last month i got a holley vacuum secondary in almost new conditoin for free(it was a nice gift).
I could probably part with the q-jet. maby the holley too :eek:
 
Last edited:
Indycars said:
I wanted to see how the Crane Cam 110911 would work with the Brodix IK180 compared
to the IK200. I was surprised at first that the IK180's produced better numbers for both
torque and HP until I examined the flow numbers. The IK 180 actually flows better than
the IK200 up to valve lift of .400. That coupled with the camshaft max lift is .460/.480

This camshaft would never have the valve open wide enough to ever take advantage of the
better flow at .500" of lift. Component Compatibility is key again to having a successful
engine combination.

View attachment 5823
View attachment 5825
View attachment 5824

Is there another camshaft you would like to see Jimmy, just provide a link to the cam card???

.
Click to expand...

That's really interesting!

I'm leaning towards the parts that Grumpy listed as a starting point.. So the cam you ran the numbers for will be a likely candidate..

In the interests of keeping the budget in check I'm thinking through where I can save a few $$.. It's going to be tough to keep to $3-4k AUD, but I think I can get close with some compromises and taking my time..

How would it look with:

PROMAXX Performance Freedom Series Small Block Chevy Cylinder Heads 2168
around 10-10.5:1 compression
air gap intake
That same 110911 cam
625 or 750 cfm demon carb
 
mathd said:
I have a used but working q-jet and last month i got a holley vacuum secondary in almost new conditoin for free(it was a nice gift).
I could probably part with the q-jet. maby the holley too :eek:
Click to expand...

I too have a used recently working Qjet... :) but Grumpy's comments and what I've read about them being difficult for the inexperienced to tune, has put me off using that...

I might be in the market for a decent Holley though ;)
 
I just watched this video:


Do these results likely hold true for a 383 build like I'm aiming for? A quick search on Fleabay I found a used Performer RPM for $120AUD, which is a good couple of hundred saved...
 
If you are referring to Single plane vs Dual plane, then it don't get anymore
black & white. Dual plane is going to work better for your motor!
 
Dual Plane be best choice Jimmy.
I would use a Edelbrock Performer.

Performer RPM Works best with large tube headers and 3.73 -3.90 Rear diff gears.

Single plane Works best with True Drag Race Headers. Open No exhaust system No mufflers.
At least 4.10 rear diff gears.
4.56-4.88 Gears better yet.
WOT Drag Race in 2000-3500 lb pound race car.

Single plane can be used in True Big block cars on the street.
 
Indycars said:
If you are referring to Single plane vs Dual plane, then it don't get anymore
black & white. Dual plane is going to work better for your motor!
Click to expand...

Yep, was definitely looking at dual plane. But, had thought the air gap design was the better option..? But, they got pretty similar results from a customised non air gap rpm intake and a spacer, which I could likely pickup for about half the price..
 
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-intake-test.58/
you won,t know the answer to how well any combo runs until you do some testing and tuning with that combo, but its very likely that it should function well with minor adjustments, if the parts you select match and are properly installed.
for some reason most guys think that the constant addition of new parts solves most issues, and the truth is that the VAST majority of issues, are due to either mis-matched or improperly installed parts,or lack of tuning experience.
damn few guys ever get their car engines and drive trains functioning at near peak potential performance.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
87vette81big said:
Dual Plane be best choice Jimmy.
I would use a Edelbrock Performer.

Performer RPM Works best with large tube headers and 3.73 -3.90 Rear diff gears.

Single plane Works best with True Drag Race Headers. Open No exhaust system No mufflers.
At least 4.10 rear diff gears.
4.56-4.88 Gears better yet.
WOT Drag Race in 2000-3500 lb pound race car.

Single plane can be used in True Big block cars on the street.
Click to expand...

Ok, so even a non rpm performer could do it?

I do hope to put 3.73ish rear gears in as soon as possible, as the wet noodle rear end I have will quickly become a weak point if I try to have too much fun I suspect :)

Btw.. You got my brain ticking and I've set up a saved search on fleabay for "Oldsmobile 455" just to see what comes up... ;)
 
grumpyvette said:
try a crane 110921 with 10.5:1 compression and those IK 200 with long tube open headers and a air gap intake with the 750 cfm holley/demon carb, and 1.6:1 rockers, with the cam strait up or retarded 4 degrees
Click to expand...

Is this what you had in mind?

Both engines have the Crane 110921, but then I made those changes shown on the graph
to the IK200 engine only.

Anything else?

Dyno_Crane110921_IK180vIK200.JPG
 
I decided I needed to replace the IK180 engine with the first camshaft Crane 110911. So same as above except they no longer have the same camshaft now. The darker lines are still the IK180 engine.

Dyno_Crane110911vsCrane110921.JPG
 
JimmyDuncan said:
Ok, so even a non rpm performer could do it?

I do hope to put 3.73ish rear gears in as soon as possible, as the wet noodle rear end I have will quickly become a weak point if I try to have too much fun I suspect :)

Btw.. You got my brain ticking and I've set up a saved search on fleabay for "Oldsmobile 455" just to see what comes up... ;)
Click to expand...
If you actually use 3.73-3.90 gears to begin with then a higher performing intake can be used.

Something to keep in mind its a big heavy car you have.
Want off idle torque and into midrange super strong.

Different ways to cheat. Overdrive trans. High stall torque converter. Ect.
Going to cost more as a total package.

Still won't be like having a Big Block.

Yes I like Oldsmobiles too.
Still a hidden Sleeper Big Block Engine the Olds V8.
Real inexpensive to build if you use what the Factory gave You.
Takes just a mild cam and you will smoke near any SBC Built up.
Did it for less cash.
Use stock 2-3 series gearing.
Stock trans and stock torque converter.
Do what a BBC CAN TILL FULL DRAG RACE INTO 9'S.
 
RICK?
somethings obviously a bit different between your software or input data, both the dyno charts you posted above are VERY similar and the cams and changes in the combo would have made a very noticeable difference
 
JimmyDuncan said:
I just watched this video:


Do these results likely hold true for a 383 build like I'm aiming for? A quick search on Fleabay I found a used Performer RPM for $120AUD, which is a good couple of hundred saved...
Click to expand...
I agree with Rick, if you keep a eye on Fleabay on a daily basis, you can get a Eddy Air Gap used for the 120 bux you mentioned on Perf RPM, I got my Air Gap new on ebay for 185 bux, I just had to watch and saw it as "Buy it Now" and snagged it real quick. Racingjunk.com might be a good place to look also.
 
I have a iron dual plane manifold that is wasting space on the shelfe.
Maby i should check what it is and put it on ebay at that price but its soo heavy, shipping will be ridiculous :O.
 
If you change exhaust system settings On engine simulators you will see big gains.
Often 100-200 HP. Torque increases.

They are just rough estimations to me.
 
busterrm said:
I agree with Rick, if you keep a eye on Fleabay on a daily basis, you can get a Eddy Air Gap used for the 120 bux you mentioned on Perf RPM, I got my Air Gap new on ebay for 185 bux, I just had to watch and saw it as "Buy it Now" and snagged it real quick. Racingjunk.com might be a good place to look also.
Click to expand...

This week I managed to pick up a used Performer RPM intake manifold for 1/2 what the cheapest airgap style manifold would have cost me to buy new here in Oz or to import from over your way.. It arrived today. I'm pretty happy with the price and I will experiment with a 1" spacer once the engine is built and in the car....

I'm going to save up some $$ and get a new carby and distributor soon, so I can install them and the intake on the current sad 307, because the carby and dizzy on there now have seen better days... I can then re-use them down the line on the new engine..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top