Aluminum tubing for fuel lines

legerwn

legerwn

Active Member
Whats your thoughts on using aluminum tubing for fuel lines?

Looking over the internet some suggest not using it due to hardening and becoming brittle but the retailers offer it as a replacement.

Not interested in adding a sump to my tank but would like to add a couple of fuel cell bulkhead fittings to help the electric pump out so it don't have to lift the fuel.

Was also going to add a small baffle to the internal of the tank around the bulkhead fittings to reduce the chance of fuel leaving the area around the bulkhead fittings when the fuel level gets low.

Read where grumpyvette has the local hose shop make fuel lines for him, may go talk with them and see what they can do.

thanks
Neal
 
Ive seen lots of guys use aluminum fuel line, but Ive also seen several failures , aluminum is not nearly as resistant to wear and vibration damage as steel nor as flexible and easy to used as the stainless braid covered synthetic fuel line, with the crimped on AN style fittings that many hydraulic supply shops can fabricate to your exact specifications.
anfitchartz.jpg


IF YOU PREFER HARD LINES I,D SUGGEST USING STEEL OR STAINLESS STEEL FUEL LINES OF THE APPROPRIATE DIAMETER.
line4.jpg

braid2.JPG

line6.jpg


BTW alcohol in fuel tends to cause aluminum to oxidize over time
http://video.foxbusiness.com/v/2000862202001/
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211&p=23798&hilit=tube+bending#p23798

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=6353&p=20014&hilit=tube+bending#p20014

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1030&p=11111&hilit=bending+flaring#p11111

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1660&p=4018&hilit=bending+flaring#p4018

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=4381&p=16285&hilit=flex+fuel+line#p16285

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=7787&p=28270&hilit=an+fittings#p28270

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1939&p=26684&hilit=an+fittings#p26684

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5731&p=17488&hilit=an+fittings#p17488
 
DorianL said:
I had aluminum fuel lines once... never again!
Click to expand...
why?
you scaring me there lol. i have only 1 aluminium line its my fuel return.
 

Where were all these comments when I brought up ALUMINUM FUEL LINES ???
Please more details for or against !!!

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=7787&start=20

I could still change, since I have not installed anything, but I could NOT find a
source for 1/2 inch steel lines.

 
why not carefully measure each section youll need and have a local hydraulic hose supply fabricate you each section with the ends required, its usually not expensive or time consuming, in fact I usually go down with a few connectors or ends to show them exactly what I need in threads or connectors and a diagram like the one you posted earlier and I label the diagram and make a list showing what each section length and the type of connectors to be used, I walk in, and with in 30-45 minutes walk out with every custom section I need the custom fabricated flex hose with ends ans stainless braid that will handle 300 psi and 300F temps with no problem
 
why not carefully measure each section youll need and have a local hydraulic hose supply fabricate you each section with the ends required, its usually not expensive or time consuming, in fact I usually go down with a few connectors or ends to show them exactly what I need in threads or connectors and a diagram like the one you posted earlier
FuelSystemDiagram02a.jpg



and I label the diagram and make a list showing what each section length and the type of connectors to be used, I walk in, and with in 30-45 minutes walk out with every custom section I need the custom fabricated flex hose with ends and made from hydraulic hose compatible with fuel, with stainless braid outer covering that will handle 300 psi and 300F temps with no problem.
I don,t remember exact cost on my last race car, but it had several short sections with swivel ends and two longer sections of fuel line with ends all in 1/2" inside diameter and all together all the sections cost me less than $120-$130 if Im remembering correctly
 

Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought that the inside of the SS lines had a limited
life time and needed to be changed every few years.

Another reason would be the abrasive nature of the SS braid against my
wires that are also inside the frame.

So far I have not heard what's wrong with using aluminum fuel lines.

 
the better quality flex, fuel line supplied by the local hydraulic supply, has an inner plastic /teflon layer that prevents the fuel from seeping thru and degrading the outer layers, I,ve yet to see one of those custom fabricated lines leak if it was professionally fabricated.
aluminum fuel line tends to get stress fractures where its flared, its like it has a memory of the stress its seen when stretched, that can cause cracks later if the line is located where it is subjected to vibration, Ive seen many guys use it without issues but Ive also seen cases where fittings just cracked off.
you might want to have a discussion with a local professional hydraulic line supply dealer.
line4.jpg

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/ict-billet/department/fittings-hoses


 
Last edited by a moderator:

Ok, that's the first I've heard about aluminum tubing problems. I guess it time
to go back to the drawing board and re-consider my options, the lose of $25 worth
of aluminum tubing is minor. I don't want to use a SS braid on the outside because
of the abrasion it might cause on my electrical wiring that will be inside the frame
with the fuel line. But there should be plenty of options for the outside layer.

Sorry legerwn, didn't mean to highjack your thread!

 
Indycars said:

Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought that the inside of the SS lines had a limited
life time and needed to be changed every few years.

Another reason would be the abrasive nature of the SS braid against my
wires that are also inside the frame.

So far I have not heard what's wrong with using aluminum fuel lines.
Click to expand...

Aluminum Fuel Lines can crack under hard street & race use.
I have used aluminum fuel line, MOROSO brand.
Its inexpensive, but like Grumpy mentioned earlier, it has very poor abrasion resistance. Once the exterior of aluminum fuel line is heavily scratched or nicked during installation, you set up a perfect failure point.
If you choose to use aluminum fuel line, check it weekly. Lay on your back with a flashlight or with your car on a lift.
I would not choose to use aluminum fuel line on a car with 500 horsepower & matching 500 ft/lbs at the crankshaft flywheel. Reason why is at this power level, the torque of the engine is also twisting the entire floor pan & frame rails. And it does happen without a professionally engineered & TIG welded 10 to 14 point drag race roll cage.
The twisting floor pan & frame rails stress the aluminum line, its annealed to make for easy bending during installation, and driveline vibration at WOT loads sets up harmonic vibrations in that aluminum fuel line. Becomes a long giant tuning fork.

Its much safer using Areoquip or Earl's brand braided fuel line. I prefer stainless braiding. Old School. But its 100 % reliable & very strong.
Its true there is a limited lifespan, should be checked every 2 years. If a racecar, replace entire braided lines every 2 to 5 years.
Internal Teflon lined Stainless braided race hose is good for 10 to 20 years +.
The proper Fuel; line is imperitive for your driving & hard core race use Safety.
Dieing in a gasoline or Methanol alcohol fire because poor choices were made during fuel system planning & installation is a very bad way to go.
I met Arnie Beswick of Pontiac Racing fame at his house in Morrison, IL 6 months after his tragic race car fire accident.
Terrible burns. He has recovered. Constant reminder of safety & not being stupid when building a high performance street machine & all out race car.
He raced, Arnie for 50 some years, watched him run into 6's in 1/4 at over 200mph. Till one day things went all wrong.

BR
 
87vette81big said:
Aluminum Fuel Lines can crack under hard street & race use.
I have used aluminum fuel line, MOROSO brand.
Its inexpensive, but like Grumpy mentioned earlier, it has very poor abrasion resistance. Once the exterior of aluminum fuel line is heavily scratched or nicked during installation, you set up a perfect failure point.
If you choose to use aluminum fuel line, check it weekly. Lay on your back with a flashlight or with your car on a lift.
I would not choose to use aluminum fuel line on a car with 500 horsepower & matching 500 ft/lbs at the crankshaft flywheel. Reason why is at this power level, the torque of the engine is also twisting the entire floor pan & frame rails. And it does happen without a professionally engineered & TIG welded 10 to 14 point drag race roll cage.
The twisting floor pan & frame rails stress the aluminum line, its annealed to make for easy bending during installation, and driveline vibration at WOT loads sets up harmonic vibrations in that aluminum fuel line. Becomes a long giant tuning fork.
Click to expand...

Exactly what happened to me. I did not check regularly under the car... I was alerted to my issue by the distinct smell of gas. Toss in the electric fuel pump... : - /

NEVER again will I use aluminum. I now only use the highest grade steel braid for appropriate use.
 
Indycars said:

Ok, that's the first I've heard about aluminum tubing problems. I guess it time
to go back to the drawing board and re-consider my options, the lose of $25 worth
of aluminum tubing is minor. I don't want to use a SS braid on the outside because
of the abrasion it might cause on my electrical wiring that will be inside the frame
with the fuel line. But there should be plenty of options for the outside layer.

Sorry legerwn, didn't mean to highjack your thread!
Click to expand...

Didn't highjack this is exactly what I was looking for and wanting to see,

great discussions,

Neal
 
Indycars said:

Ok, that's the first I've heard about aluminum tubing problems. I guess it time
to go back to the drawing board and re-consider my options, the lose of $25 worth
of aluminum tubing is minor. I don't want to use a SS braid on the outside because
of the abrasion it might cause on my electrical wiring that will be inside the frame
with the fuel line. But there should be plenty of options for the outside layer.


seems like wrapping the outer stainless braid on the fuel line, and the wiring with a separate layer of electrical tape and/or one or both in plastic sleeve would cure that issue

sleeve.jpg

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... e/_/N-25g5
theres also woven tube sleeve for electrical wiring that is designed for high heat Resistance
sleeve1.jpg

http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr-Gasket/Mr-Gask ... 1/10002/-1
Click to expand...
 

Ok guys, now you scared the bejesus out of me, which I guess is a good thing.

Wrapping the wires is a possibility, but it might require removing them from inside the 2x3" tubing. I could try pushing the wrap, but that's not likely to work.

So what are your opinions on Stainless Steel Tubing???
I might like to use some limited amounts, say around the carburetor.

 
stainless works great if properly fabricated, but just curious?
Why the resistance to the flex tube fuel line?
or why not use steel hydraulic/fuel line?
I can,t ever remember having a problem with any line that was professionally fabricated!
Ive used those lines for decades, the newer types have a inner liner thats impervious to alcohol or petroleum , why not at least talk to a local hydraulic supply abut your needs and potential issues or questions?

BTW alcohol in fuel tends to cause aluminum to oxidize over time

http://video.foxbusiness.com/v/2000862202001/

READ THIS
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1030&p=1912#p1912
 

It's not a resistance to using a flexible line, but a want to have something that looks great also. Since it's a street rod, function is not my only concern and I think I would like the looks of hard line that looks like chrome. To plump the whole system with SS would be too expensive and half of it would not even be visible.

I also want to improve my skills at tube bending. Besides I have spent good money on a quality bender and flaring tool, I would like to put them to use.

I will be talking with a hose fabricator for a majority of the fuel line.

 
Stainless Steel Tubing is difficult to bend.
You need a professional, industrial style( Machine shop quality) worm gear drive bender with billet machined jaws.
Standard currently available tubing benders will not cut it. Bender will break 1st &/ or tubing will collapse in 1/2 on you.

Its an "IN THING" right now stainless steel polished tubing.
Its Ok & will work.
I don't care about being like everyone else & looking cool because some part shines more.
Function & performance & ultimate durability is more important to me.
I love the performance & time tested durability of stainless braided Earl's or Areoquip racing fuel hose & Red- Blue Anodized forged aluminum AN fitting ends.

BR
 
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