Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

Grumpy said:
400-425 hp is generally OK in a carefully inspected OEM sbc,thats been carefully machined, engines built,on a decent non-core shift block,
yes its a bit over what the block was designed for,
but hundreds of thousands if not millions of guys build SBC engines,
in that power range that last for decades,
its when you push to over about 450 hp your just pushing reasonable limits.
keep in mind your engine may be making 430-hp at 6300 rpm,
but keep in mind, realistically,
it will spend 90% or more of its actual time making power at much lower rpm and stress levels
if it made 430 hp all the time like if you were running a circle track engine,
it would never last nearly as long as it can in street performance use,
where you may spend 40 seconds every few days at most embarrassing some kids turbo mazda.
one reason Im a big fan of the BBC, is a properly machined 396-496 BBC can use the O.E.M. block and crank and in many cases even connecting rods if the correct rod bolts are used,
to make 450 hp-550 hp and the O.E.M. block and carefully selected and carefully prepped O.E.M. components works just fine.
450 hp-550 hp, in a reasonably light weight car,
like a camaro,nova or cobra kit car, t-bucket, or Vega,
with the correctly set up suspension, tires and gearing can be a great deal of fun.


only loosely related but fun video
Click to expand...
A Big Chevy Done here is always $15,000 cash to start.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Could Try Welding.
Use Cast Iron Nickle Rod.
Nicknamed Ni Rod here by welders.
You use a Stick AC Welder.

There is lock and stitch method also done by machine shops.

Would be lowest cost at movement.
Cross your fingers and it holds up.

Needs a Front Engine motor plate.
Drag Racing a large heavy car.
All Chevy Block mounts terrible for Racing. Known to crack blocks unless a Front Motor Engine plate is used.
Click to expand...

I’ll look into repair options too.. but, crossing fingers doesn’t sound very hopeful.. :eek:
 
Grumpy said:
400-425 hp is generally OK in a carefully inspected OEM sbc,thats been carefully machined, engines built,on a decent non-core shift block,
yes its a bit over what the block was designed for,
but hundreds of thousands if not millions of guys build SBC engines,
in that power range that last for decades,
its when you push to over about 450 hp your just pushing reasonable limits.
keep in mind your engine may be making 430-hp at 6300 rpm,
but keep in mind, realistically,
it will spend 90% or more of its actual time making power at much lower rpm and stress levels
if it made 430 hp all the time like if you were running a circle track engine,
it would never last nearly as long as it can in street performance use,
where you may spend 40 seconds every few days at most embarrassing some kids turbo mazda.
one reason Im a big fan of the BBC, is a properly machined 396-496 BBC can use the O.E.M. block and crank and in many cases even connecting rods if the correct rod bolts are used,
to make 450 hp-550 hp and the O.E.M. block and carefully selected and carefully prepped O.E.M. components works just fine.
450 hp-550 hp, in a reasonably light weight car,
like a camaro,nova or cobra kit car, t-bucket, or Vega,
with the correctly set up suspension, tires and gearing can be a great deal of fun.


only loosely related but fun video
Click to expand...

Replacing with BBC is an awesome idea, but likely out of my league right now.. my dad is the one with the big wallet.. he’s about to pull his 427 to stroke it in the next few weeks.. he didn’t like that I was doing the same times as him.. ;)
 
JimmyDuncan said:
I’ll look into repair options too.. but, crossing fingers doesn’t sound very hopeful.. :eek:
Click to expand...
Do it just like a Drag Racer Does.
Look at how much money you have.
If Notta then choose the lowest cost option.
You have no choice but to.

Throw Moroso Ceramic Sealer in.

Nickle weld the block.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
The 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix with its 1965 Olds 425 was true low cost. About 1200 CASH I had it running driving.
Click to expand...

My new project was going to be finding a cheap small old car and transplant a big engine, with a goal to go budget low 11s so, no requirement for a cage.. (in NZ 10:99 need a cage) but, the $$ for that is now being redirected to fix Frank’s 383...
 
If I manage to seal it with the Moroso sealant and keep driving it and a few track days, what likely worst case..? Bigger crack or catastrophic failure...?
 
My 2 cents - I would seal it with the Moroso ceramic sealer, and JB Weld on the outside.

Is there any reason he can't hard block the lower portion, covering the crack?
 
Loves302Chevy said:
My 2 cents - I would seal it with the Moroso ceramic sealer, and JB Weld on the outside.

Is there any reason he can't hard block the lower portion, covering the crack?
Click to expand...
Yeah cool. Liking the ideas.. the one place in NZ that sells the sealer is out till next month and he suggested jb weld or similar external over ceramic.. maybe both ceramic and jb and I can stay on the road longer.. ?
 
Loves302Chevy said:
My 2 cents - I would seal it with the Moroso ceramic sealer, and JB Weld on the outside.

Is there any reason he can't hard block the lower portion, covering the crack?
Click to expand...
I thought about Hardblock.
It's Yes and No.
Has been dependable for Jimmy driving no cooling system issues.
When you hardblock and try to real world street drive anywhere anytime new cooling system problems likely.
They want to run Hot.
 
JimmyDuncan said:
My new project was going to be finding a cheap small old car and transplant a big engine, with a goal to go budget low 11s so, no requirement for a cage.. (in NZ 10:99 need a cage) but, the $$ for that is now being redirected to fix Frank’s 383...
Click to expand...
The best deals present are the 3rd Generation Camaro and Firebird.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
My 2 cents - I would seal it with the Moroso ceramic sealer, and JB Weld on the outside.

Is there any reason he can't hard block the lower portion, covering the crack?
Click to expand...
My old Neighbor I grew up next to in town had a 1975 Chevy Monza.
It had an early 327 SBC. Stock block. Factory steel crank.
2.02 Double Hump iron factory heads hand ported full race.
Tunnel Ram 660's Holley's.
Turbo 400 Transmission with a Trans brake.
5500 Rpm 8 inch Coan Converter.
1957 Pontiac 9.3 diff With 5.57 gears full steel race spool. Rear narrowed with Strange Race axles.
He ran a solid front motor plate.
Ran 10.20s always in 1/4 mile.
Nothing ever broke.
It trapped at 9,000 rpms.

Front Engine motor plates work.
No broken Chevy Blocks.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
I bought a front SBC motor plate from ebay. Lots of used NASCAR parts there.
Some great deals if you know what you are looking at. I bought a ton of stuff. Mostly valvetrain components.
Here's an example for you: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-Front-...773389?hash=item48c67db8cd:g:WRkAAOSwjpxcrmSh
And in .090" steel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Competitio...kitb1txM:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!06450!US!-1
Click to expand...
Nice find Mike.
They discontinued the Competition Engineering front Motor plate for a Pontiac V8 .
I called Moroso during lunch, they have enough parts on hand to build a few more, talked to main tech that checked in the Fab shop.
Its a unique 2-piece.
So I ordered through my favorite speed shop today in Joliet a Moroso Dealer.
1-week wait for it to get made.
Present sold by Jim Butler has too many Lightning holes for my liking.
Just looks strange also.
 
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