Compressor Installation and Piping


Sorry I didn't respond earlier guys. I have been quite busy at work, with a mandatory encryption of all laptop by the SR VP by April 29th. Then this week the other guy(there are two of us) went to Seattle for the week, so I'm taking care of over 200 computer users by myself.

My daughter got a job here at the OKC Zoo, she will be a zoo keeper for the carnivores, which means she will be taking care of the BiG Cats. So I have been helping her the last two days move back from Missiouri.

I appreciate your nice comments!!! It's not real pretty like Grumpy's pictures but I'm just happy I only had one major leak. I also figured it was better to have to much filler material, than too little.

 

Below is my preparation of the copper before soldering/brazing.

Just before brazing I would wipe it down with 91% alcohol to remove any oils and the copper particles from the abrasive cleaning.

P09_CopperPrep_4096.jpg
P09_CopperPrepTools_4094.jpg

I know must of us would use flux before brazing, but the material I used by Harris called Stay-Silv5 recommended no flux.....it was self fluxing.

See page 16 of the attached PDF file.

Phos/copper and silver/phos/copper alloys are used to braze copper to copper and
copper to brass. The phosphorus content in these alloys makes them self-fluxing on
copper. When brazing brass or copper to brass, use Stay-Silv white brazing flux. These
alloys are not recommended for brazing steel or other ferrous metals.
Click to expand...

Some great info on piping a compressed air system.

http://www.exair.com/index.php/knowledgebase/air-data/flow-conversion.html

Pressure drop in 100 feet of 3/8" black pipe (ID=.493") which is pretty damn close to 1/2" copper tubing which goes by ID.
15 SCFM & 100 psi = 2.23

http://www.exair.com/index.php/knowledgebase/air-data/pipe-pressure-drop.html


 

Attachments

  • GuidetoBrazingAndSoldering.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 4
Last edited:
i just noticed your is the aluminum cup, mine is the waterborne version with smaller acetal cup.
do not put waterborne paint in that aluminum cup.
 

Why would water borne paint be so bad for an aluminum cup, it's not
going to be in there for long. In my thread about the 200-4R rebuild I
used a Harbor Freight plastic cup, is this OK???

 
i dont know why but devilbiss are very specific about this.(i think it has some sort of reaction like corrosion on aluminum)
the inside of the flg-4 are hard anodized stainless in the inside so for waterborne its really just the aluminum cup the problem.
if you use waterborne paint use the acetal cup. or disposable cup(like the one you used).
Mine was the airborne kit, it came stock with the acetal cup.

this is from the instruction manual
These guns are sold with either a 900 cc
aluminum cup (702576) or a 20 oz. Acetal
cup (GFC-501). These guns are suitable
for use with water based materials ONLy
if used with a Acetal cup, or with a
disposable cup system
Click to expand...
link:
http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/de ... PortalId=0
 
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