Distance Behind X Pipe?

Discussion in 'Exhaust and Mufflers' started by busterrm, Jan 7, 2021.

  1. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    What do you think of my latest design for the header to X pipe? The rest will probably be work in process!
     
  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    if you weld the two collectors directly to the x-pipe between them,
    its SURE to cause fitting and assembly and alignment issues

    [​IMG]
    Yes, like Grumpy said, you don’t want this to be welded solid. When I am in the construction stage there will be a V band connector in the middle of each 2 1/2 pipe between the collectors and the X pipe. Also, when you weld something that is round it is better to weld it in 1/4 or 90 degree segments. Weld one segment move 180 degrees from your starting point, weld 90 degrees, then go back to your starting point and weld that 90 the opposite direction, then go back to the starting point of your second weld and finish the joint. There will be some drawing from the welding but if you do it this way it draw evenly and easier to work with once it cools.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 10, 2021
  3. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Oh crap, I forgot one of the v band connections will be in the middle of the 2 1/2 pipe before the X pipe. Then another just before the mufflers.
    I will weld the 2 1/2 pipe the collector let it cool in place. Then put in the V bands, let it cool, cut the pipe and weld in the X pipe. If I put it all together the welding heat will draw it all out of shape. So I will do it in stages, let it cool in between, that will allow me to do the fitting with cool parts for better fitment in each stage. I sometimes say it like it all magically fits together, and forget some of the guys reading this are not fabrication specialist like myself. So sorry! Once I am doing it, I will take pics in stages and list precautions to do a good quality job!
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2021
  4. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Hey Grumpy, have a question! That dimension Rick gave me for the collector, does that need to be to the location where the 2 1/2 in pipe comes off the collector or to the point where the cutout opens up?
     
  5. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    it won,t make a difference you could see anywhere else than on a really accurate dyno graph,
    but in theory its the distance too the collector block off plates at the 25" mark on your diagram,
    keep in mind once the exhaust system is attached in completely changes the exhaust scavenging efficiency
    and reduces the scavenging effect properly made open headers would have
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2021
  6. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Think of putting in a baffle to direct exhaust into the 2 1/2 pipe, that is welded to the cutout cap. Then make a set to block off the 2 1/2 pipe out the cutout with a turn down!
     
  7. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    I have finally decided that my last idea is the direction I am going with the headers and exhaust system! It’s probably going to take until spring to gather the parts and tools to do the work!
     
  8. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Something I have always wanted to try with the header bolts is the type that has the set screw that is in the middle of the stud. Have any of you guys used them, and are they worth the trouble?
     
  9. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

  10. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/drill-bits.4714/#post-12809.

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...afety-wire-locking-fasteners.4306/#post-11353

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hop-needs-a-decent-drill-press.970/#post-1691

    yeah it helps to own a decent drill press and mill vise

    buy some size #56 cobalt drill bits to drill holes for safety wire in header bolts

    your local hardware store won,t have them this cheap, buy the 12 pack, they are small and easy to break if you don,t use them correctly and drill slowly while spraying coolant oil
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-America-56-M42-Cobalt-Drill-Bit-12-Piece-D-ACO56P12/305723430
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2021
  11. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    6F4D499B-06EF-4BEB-8DE6-73D6D3754207.jpeg These are the header bolts I was thinking about using when the headers and exhaust is finished.
    Those bolts have a set screw that goes through the center of the bolt and spreads the very end of the bolt locking it into the threads and hopefully will prevent them from backing out and causing a header exhaust leak.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2021
  12. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Not going to be long before I order my header and exhaust parts, then when taxes get back I am going to buy a Hobart 190 MIG machine and Argon/CO2 bottle and get started!
     

Share This Page