Electrical Wiring for a TBucket

My drawings show a cutoff switch to shutdown all electrical, I had to leave
that out. There was just NOT enough room for it. I also nixed the idea of
having 4-way flashers, it was going to complicate and already complicated
wiring system.

Now some good news, the dash wiring is done. I still have to bring the wires
up to the dash and terminate them in the other side of the connectors you see.

FP08_DashFinalWiring_6120.jpg

I had to buy a different Deutsch DTM series or mini size connectors and
crimping tool for the dash. Many of the wires are 20 AWG and smaller and
the DT series will not go that small, only down to 18 AWG.

I use heat shrink in different colors to identify certain bundles of wires from
others. When I don't have what I need then I use a SHARPIE to add a band to
each segment of heat shrink.

FP08_DashFinalWiring_6122.jpg
I used plenty of Adel clamps to support the wires and keep them from moving
around while driving and causing a fatigue failure.

FP08_DashFinalWiring_6127.jpg
 
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I'm adding front LED turn signals to the car this time, but I'm having a problem
with them. The wires are getting hot on each side when I'm signaling for that side, and it's blowing fuses.

Could just connecting them backwards cause this problem???
 
-heat is a symptom of excess electrical resistance to current flow,
chances are good the circuit is over loaded or wire gauge is significantly undersized for the application.
now some one would assume that blinker signal lamps fixtures and bulbs or leds,would be factory wired with the ideal pig tail gauge wire so.
ID look to verify the wire gauge used to feed the lights is the same or ideally a thicker gauge. ID look else-ware in the circuit if the wire gauge is ok

Q60_57.jpg

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the other potential option is the NEED for a RELAY
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...current-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-9220

relaywire.jpg
 
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If you reverse the polarity the led will not light and will not draw current. until...
When it reach reverse breakdown voltage (see datasheet for spec, but usually pretty low for a led) it will start conducting current but without emitting any light. Will most likelly result in damaged leds.. but no light.

Now. when a diode/led fail, it can shortcircuit or go opencircuit. (these light have like 25x led in them, one can go out and you don't notice).
These probably use a ballast(current limitting resistor), if a diode fail and shorcircuit it will prevent a complete shortcircuit but will draw alot of current.(making the wire hot, blowing the fuse)

Or something is wrong with the wiring.
Make sure you have +12v at anode and cathode to ground.
 
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Well, what are the wire color?.
Do they all light up when you put power on but the wire get hot and the fuse blow?. Or is there no light, just blowing fuse/wire getting hot?.
Give me a detailed explanation of what and how it happen and in wich condition.
Some of them need external ballast (current limitting resistor or constant current source circuit). Most of them its integrated inside.
If there's no ballast(and polarity is correct/no led failed), they will light up and it will blow the fuse and get the wire hot.. and burn the led after a while. Because of excessive current/heat.
Any installation sheet?

Maby you just got bad ones.
Led's of today are really cheap. and cheap flasher will use low wattage led and drive them with too much current.. don't last very long.
 
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I pulled the lens off the light and found a incandescent light inside. I checked the
description again to make sure it was suppose to be LED and yes that's how it was
described. So I chunked them in the trash. So I have rear turn signals that work,
just like before the wiring project.
 
yeah its a P.I.T.A. when your told one thing, about a component,
that makes you want to select it to use... and that proves too be a lie!
and with smaller electrical components ,
if the price is reasonably low
(diodes, light bulbs, LEDS, fuses,pigtails,resistors,relays sensors connectors etc,)
it frequently makes a great deal of sense to buy several spares


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/lots-of-wiring-info-diagrams.317/#post-84479

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagrams.asp

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3105/#post-68805

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/heat-shrink-tubing.1443/#post-28050

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...urrent-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-33363

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ft-system-vats-making-you-crazy.520/#post-645

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...stimated-costs-are-shocking.11874/#post-56312

https://www.wiringproducts.com/general-motors-connectors-sockets

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-or-alternator.10003/#post-43220

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/vats-fuse.3453/#post-26193
 
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10 Best Soldering Wires For Engineers And Hobbyists
Asim QureshiSeptember 27, 20150
Best-soldering-wire-2.jpg

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2.25% Flux Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Soldering Wire by Sunkee(10$)

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Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder(6.8$)

This solder wire is the most popular of all we have researched, and judging by our personal experiences we will rate this quite highly. This wire required the minimum cleansing of the Soldering Iron Tip. It has 60% tin and 40-% lead.
 
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