engine removal

[grumpyvette]

this might not be for your year car exactly
but its similar to most cars (THE LISTED INFOS FOR A 1984 CORVETTE) BUT THERE WILL BE A GOOD DEAL OF SIMILARITY IN MOST C4 or C3 ENGINE REMOVALS
If you do build a second performance engine rather than modify your single existing original cars engine,theres some advantages, that us older geezers have come to appreciate at times.
as a general rule, its best to take your time and build a separate performance engine that you can swap into the car over a weekend, this has several advantages
(1) you will not be tying up the car, in an un-driveable condition waiting for weeks on parts to arrive or waiting on machine work to be done,
and you can always swap the original engine back into the car,
to have the car as dependable transportation while the performance engines being built or worked on.
(2) you can sell either engine separately from the car itself and still have a drive-able car.
(3)having your performance engine out on an engine stand certainly makes it far easier to work on.
(4) having a second engine available allows you to drive the car while you make repairs on the original engine
(5) if you screw something up, your not effectively stuck with a non-driveable car for long.
(6) with some experience you,ll find an engine swap between two similar engines can be done in a day , or at most a weekend by yourself, with a skilled and experienced local buddy, a long afternoon!
btw heres SIMILAR c5 info
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

heres a couple related links to more info, that should help

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=704

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018

(sensor locations)

http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Compo ... w%2086.pdf

basic list
ENGINE REMOVAL / ASSEMBLY
Removal
step by step
start by BUYING A SHOP MANUAL AND READING THRU THE PROCEDURE<
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_serv ... 45E5624477
ITS always best to have a helper and a few basic safety tools like a fire extinguisher, cell phone, and use decent JACK STANDS, a LIFT sure HELPS, but 4 12 ton jack stands will do fine, and a DECENT ENGINE CRANE,
working on a flat concrete surface and driving the corvette up on decent ramps to give you jack / frame clearance , AND THINK THRU ANYTHING THAT WILL GET YOU POTENTIALLY HURT.
GET A DIGITAL CAMERA AND TAKE PICTURES AND NOTES AND LABEL COMPONENTS AS YOU GO!

PUT ALL BOLTS FOR ACCESSORIES IN A ZIPLOC BAG AND TAPE THE BAG TO THE ACCESSORY

IF YOU DON,T HAVE A SHOP MANUAL...YOU SHOULD BUY ONE

OK first you DON,T raise a vette one corner at a time! you drive it up on the ramps to get clearance for the jack then slide the floor jack under the center of the front (CROSS MEMBER) and lift the front and place BOTH front 12 ton jack stands, then the angle allows you to either use a second floor jack or move the front floor jack to the rear of the vette, and lift the whole back and place both REAR 12 ton jack stands.
now personally I usually leave the rear jack stands and the jack holding the rear up ,and the 12 ton jack stands on the front with the tires hanging just above the ramps, that way theres almost no chance the vette can fall, even if some component were to fail.
Ill ALSO point out I have and have always used two floor jacks, twin rino ramps and 4 12 ton jack stand WHEN I was under the corvette as I don,t want to be doing bench presses with a vette!

Disconnect battery ground cable.

Drain cooling system.

drain oil.(replace pan bolt)

Remove air cleaner.

remove the spark plugs

turn the engine over by hand until the TDC mark on the damper aligns with the timing tab, on the timing cover, and you feel compression in #1 cylinder as you get close to TDC.

Remove serpentine belt.

Remove braces at the back of A/C compressor.

Disconnect wires at A/C compressor.

Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at TBI units.

Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket nuts and bolts.

Disconnect heater hoses at the block.

Disconnect fuel line clip at fuel pump cover plate.

Disconnect upper radiator hose at thermostat outlet.

Remove A/C compressor to mounting bracket bolt and ove compressor aside.

Remove mounting bracket.

Disconnect CFI harness at engine.

Disconnect cruise, detent and accelerator cables.

Remove distributor shield.

Remove distributor cap.

Remove 4 wire connector at distributor.

mark where the rotor points and remove the distributor

Disconnect detent cable bracket at intake.

Remove distributor.

Disconnect wires at oil pressure sending unit.

Remove oil pressure sending unit.

Disconnect necessary vacuum hoses.

Disconnect power steering hoses at rack and pinion.

Remove crankshaft pulley.

Disconnect bulkhead connector and necessary harness connectors.

Disconnect AIR hoses at converter check valve.

Move fuel lines aside.

Disconnect radiator hose at water pump.

Disconnect upper radiator hose at power steering reservoir bracket.

Raise vehicle.

Disconnect AIR pipe at exhaust manifold.

Remove AIR pipe at converter.

Disconnect "Y" pipe hanger.

Disconnect heat shields at "Y" pipe and converter.

Disconnect oxygen sensor wire.

Remove exhaust bolts at manifold.

Remove "Y" pipe at converter bolts.

Remove "Y" pipe.

Remove flywheel cover.

Remove torque converter bolts.

Loosen motor mount through bolts.

Remove motor mount to engine block bolts.

Remove bell housing bolts.

Disconnect knock sensor wire.

Disconnect ground cable at block.

Disconnect positive battery cable at battery and harness.

Remove right rear intake manifold bolt and install lift hook.

Support transmission with quality jack.

Install lifting device and lift engine enough to remove CFI ground at rear of left cylinder head.

Remove engine from vehicle.


Installation
For installation, reverse Removal procedures.

s.

 

[grumpyvette]

IF YOU DON,T HAVE A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR YOUR WORKING AT A DISADVANTAGE

http://www.helminc.com/helm/welcome_sel ... M2S049ETF8

READ THESE THREADS CAREFULLY

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... index.html

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8745&p=30913#p30913

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018

I would bet that easily 70% of the guys doing that engine removal job for the first time have about the same impression once its out
"wow that was not as bad as I thought it would be"
I know one guy who put off removing and rebuilding his engine for months because he was convinced he would never get all the electrical and vacuum lines correctly re-connected,I pointed out that in many cases a shop manual had a detailed description, and instructions and occasionally pictures to follow and theres always the internet to ask questions.
I showed him a bag of linen tags with room to write numbers, and a large legal pad, I told him to write a number and a very short note on each tag and place the tag on each component or connector,

a SHARPIE BLACK MARKER, the number and tag system and some brief notes with reference numbers and a few pictures with a digital camera make reconnecting components correctly very easy, if your concerned (LIKE MOST FIRST TIME ENGINE RE-BUILDERS ARE!)

example (A) goes on the injector and (A1)goes on that injectors connector
(B) goes on the plenum(B1) goes on the vacuum line
(C) goes on a sensor, (C1) goes on the matched connector,
and on each page of the pad you write a brief description, of where and how (A) goes to (A1) if he was concerned and everything would go slow but flawlessly, that plan gave him the confidence to do the job,now years later he still uses that system, but he gets things done every time!
and having the bolts placed in a zip-loc bag, thats taped to its matched component with a number tag and notes referring to the location also doesn,t hurt,
with lots more practice, and access to the correct tools and a decent work environment the engine removals about an hour-to-two hour job for two guys
(assuming a well lighted, flat & dry concrete floor, and a decent engine crane with a swivel and engine leveler etc.)
the harder parts getting it re-installed correctly,and remembering the exact order that the removed components go back in and which bolt goes where, and aligning components, that could and usually does take slightly longer than removing things, but if you labeled everything , placed the bolts in zip-loc bags and took pictures it should go smoothly.
As you gain experience, you ll find the re-install can be done in about 2-to-4 hour job for two guys who are experienced, and access to the correct tools.
but if you can do the complete installation, adjustments and testing, the first time in a single weekend your doing fine!
you gain experience by making mistakes, hopefully small easily corrected mistakes.
btw use of a pan with a couple inches of carburetor cleaner mixed with diesel fuel and a wire brush to clean bolt threads and a paint brush to clean of brackets etc. sure makes for a cleaner finished job, as does having a third guy who actually does no mechanical work other than taking the notes and numbering the tags and taking pictures as you progress.

 

[grumpyvette]

If you don,t own an engine crane or at least have a buddy with one you can borrow,one from, then youll want to correct that,join a local car club, start helping out and youll soon have the connections you need.
If your reluctant to change oil pans, or engine components I see the PROBLEM as more a LACK of easy access to an engine crane and perhaps a common and understandable reluctance to jump into projects your not familiar with...which once overcome will be to your benefit, youll want a shop manual and as many experience freinds to learn from as you can find..
If your going to be working on cars you EITHER need to join the local car clubs and make contacts where you can borrow one when needed,or
you can BUY an engine crane that will do a decent job, but keep in mind that for about what you can RENT one for over 3-5 days you can BUY an engine crane, so it hardly makes sense to rent one,, Id suggest borrowing or buying one, but you NEED ACCESS TO one to work on cars,
if you look on craigs list , listings or the local bargain trader, news paper,I see them all the time for $80-$100, if you catch one on sale,at HARBOR FREIGHT( just don,t get cheap and buy something thats not safe,) EXAMPLE
these work and go on sale for $148 occasionally
you can always buy a used one off craigs list,( TEST IT WORKS BEFORE YOU PAY FOR IT, BY LIFTING SOMETHING HEAVY) use it and resell it, for little or no true cost,

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7620

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=98
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018

 

[keywestjack]

Grumpy, is it generally better to place the engine and transmission into the car as a unit or do it engine then transmission?

 

[grumpyvette]

THE answer depends on the availability of easy access under the car, and if you have an engine crane with an engine leveler and if you have a lift or (4) 12 ton jack stands giving you at least 24" clearance under the car minimum the engine and transmission can come out as a unit, but if your room under the corvettes limited, or If you want to make things a bit easier in the long run ID suggest,removing each or installing each separately. because the engine needs to be at a pronounced angle to clear the engine bay with the transmission still attached.
IF its an automatic transmission,IVE generally found removing the engine first with the transmission remaining in the car temporarily while firmly supported and removing the transmission separately, next, was the best route and re-installing the transmission,separately, then installing the engine separately as the easier route for the install, because its just not that difficult to match up a torque converter to a flex plate, if its a manual transmission I generally install the engine then the c-beam and manual trans as its a bit harder to align a clutch and manual trans

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=2400

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1940