this might not be for your year car exactly
but its similar to most cars (THE LISTED INFOS FOR A 1984 CORVETTE) BUT THERE WILL BE A GOOD DEAL OF SIMILARITY IN MOST C4 or C3 ENGINE REMOVALS
If you do build a second performance engine rather than modify your single existing original cars engine,theres some advantages, that us older geezers have come to appreciate at times.
as a general rule, its best to take your time and build a separate performance engine that you can swap into the car over a weekend, this has several advantages
(1) you will not be tying up the car, in an un-driveable condition waiting for weeks on parts to arrive or waiting on machine work to be done,
and you can always swap the original engine back into the car,
to have the car as dependable transportation while the performance engines being built or worked on.
(2) you can sell either engine separately from the car itself and still have a drive-able car.
(3)having your performance engine out on an engine stand certainly makes it far easier to work on.
(4) having a second engine available allows you to drive the car while you make repairs on the original engine
(5) if you screw something up, your not effectively stuck with a non-driveable car for long.
(6) with some experience you,ll find an engine swap between two similar engines can be done in a day , or at most a weekend by yourself, with a skilled and experienced local buddy, a long afternoon!
btw heres SIMILAR c5 info
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html
heres a couple related links to more info, that should help
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=704
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018
(sensor locations)
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Compo ... w%2086.pdf
basic list
ENGINE REMOVAL / ASSEMBLY
Removal
step by step
start by BUYING A SHOP MANUAL AND READING THRU THE PROCEDURE<
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_serv ... 45E5624477
ITS always best to have a helper and a few basic safety tools like a fire extinguisher, cell phone, and use decent JACK STANDS, a LIFT sure HELPS, but 4 12 ton jack stands will do fine, and a DECENT ENGINE CRANE,
working on a flat concrete surface and driving the corvette up on decent ramps to give you jack / frame clearance , AND THINK THRU ANYTHING THAT WILL GET YOU POTENTIALLY HURT.
GET A DIGITAL CAMERA AND TAKE PICTURES AND NOTES AND LABEL COMPONENTS AS YOU GO!
PUT ALL BOLTS FOR ACCESSORIES IN A ZIPLOC BAG AND TAPE THE BAG TO THE ACCESSORY
IF YOU DON,T HAVE A SHOP MANUAL...YOU SHOULD BUY ONE
OK first you DON,T raise a vette one corner at a time! you drive it up on the ramps to get clearance for the jack then slide the floor jack under the center of the front (CROSS MEMBER) and lift the front and place BOTH front 12 ton jack stands, then the angle allows you to either use a second floor jack or move the front floor jack to the rear of the vette, and lift the whole back and place both REAR 12 ton jack stands.
now personally I usually leave the rear jack stands and the jack holding the rear up ,and the 12 ton jack stands on the front with the tires hanging just above the ramps, that way theres almost no chance the vette can fall, even if some component were to fail.
Ill ALSO point out I have and have always used two floor jacks, twin rino ramps and 4 12 ton jack stand WHEN I was under the corvette as I don,t want to be doing bench presses with a vette!
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Drain cooling system.
drain oil.(replace pan bolt)
Remove air cleaner.
remove the spark plugs
turn the engine over by hand until the TDC mark on the damper aligns with the timing tab, on the timing cover, and you feel compression in #1 cylinder as you get close to TDC.
Remove serpentine belt.
Remove braces at the back of A/C compressor.
Disconnect wires at A/C compressor.
Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at TBI units.
Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket nuts and bolts.
Disconnect heater hoses at the block.
Disconnect fuel line clip at fuel pump cover plate.
Disconnect upper radiator hose at thermostat outlet.
Remove A/C compressor to mounting bracket bolt and ove compressor aside.
Remove mounting bracket.
Disconnect CFI harness at engine.
Disconnect cruise, detent and accelerator cables.
Remove distributor shield.
Remove distributor cap.
Remove 4 wire connector at distributor.
mark where the rotor points and remove the distributor
Disconnect detent cable bracket at intake.
Remove distributor.
Disconnect wires at oil pressure sending unit.
Remove oil pressure sending unit.
Disconnect necessary vacuum hoses.
Disconnect power steering hoses at rack and pinion.
Remove crankshaft pulley.
Disconnect bulkhead connector and necessary harness connectors.
Disconnect AIR hoses at converter check valve.
Move fuel lines aside.
Disconnect radiator hose at water pump.
Disconnect upper radiator hose at power steering reservoir bracket.
Raise vehicle.
Disconnect AIR pipe at exhaust manifold.
Remove AIR pipe at converter.
Disconnect "Y" pipe hanger.
Disconnect heat shields at "Y" pipe and converter.
Disconnect oxygen sensor wire.
Remove exhaust bolts at manifold.
Remove "Y" pipe at converter bolts.
Remove "Y" pipe.
Remove flywheel cover.
Remove torque converter bolts.
Loosen motor mount through bolts.
Remove motor mount to engine block bolts.
Remove bell housing bolts.
Disconnect knock sensor wire.
Disconnect ground cable at block.
Disconnect positive battery cable at battery and harness.
Remove right rear intake manifold bolt and install lift hook.
Support transmission with quality jack.
Install lifting device and lift engine enough to remove CFI ground at rear of left cylinder head.
Remove engine from vehicle.
Installation
For installation, reverse Removal procedures.
s.
but its similar to most cars (THE LISTED INFOS FOR A 1984 CORVETTE) BUT THERE WILL BE A GOOD DEAL OF SIMILARITY IN MOST C4 or C3 ENGINE REMOVALS
If you do build a second performance engine rather than modify your single existing original cars engine,theres some advantages, that us older geezers have come to appreciate at times.
as a general rule, its best to take your time and build a separate performance engine that you can swap into the car over a weekend, this has several advantages
(1) you will not be tying up the car, in an un-driveable condition waiting for weeks on parts to arrive or waiting on machine work to be done,
and you can always swap the original engine back into the car,
to have the car as dependable transportation while the performance engines being built or worked on.
(2) you can sell either engine separately from the car itself and still have a drive-able car.
(3)having your performance engine out on an engine stand certainly makes it far easier to work on.
(4) having a second engine available allows you to drive the car while you make repairs on the original engine
(5) if you screw something up, your not effectively stuck with a non-driveable car for long.
(6) with some experience you,ll find an engine swap between two similar engines can be done in a day , or at most a weekend by yourself, with a skilled and experienced local buddy, a long afternoon!
btw heres SIMILAR c5 info
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html
heres a couple related links to more info, that should help
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=704
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018
(sensor locations)
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Compo ... w%2086.pdf
basic list
ENGINE REMOVAL / ASSEMBLY
Removal
step by step
start by BUYING A SHOP MANUAL AND READING THRU THE PROCEDURE<
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_serv ... 45E5624477
ITS always best to have a helper and a few basic safety tools like a fire extinguisher, cell phone, and use decent JACK STANDS, a LIFT sure HELPS, but 4 12 ton jack stands will do fine, and a DECENT ENGINE CRANE,
working on a flat concrete surface and driving the corvette up on decent ramps to give you jack / frame clearance , AND THINK THRU ANYTHING THAT WILL GET YOU POTENTIALLY HURT.
GET A DIGITAL CAMERA AND TAKE PICTURES AND NOTES AND LABEL COMPONENTS AS YOU GO!
PUT ALL BOLTS FOR ACCESSORIES IN A ZIPLOC BAG AND TAPE THE BAG TO THE ACCESSORY
IF YOU DON,T HAVE A SHOP MANUAL...YOU SHOULD BUY ONE
OK first you DON,T raise a vette one corner at a time! you drive it up on the ramps to get clearance for the jack then slide the floor jack under the center of the front (CROSS MEMBER) and lift the front and place BOTH front 12 ton jack stands, then the angle allows you to either use a second floor jack or move the front floor jack to the rear of the vette, and lift the whole back and place both REAR 12 ton jack stands.
now personally I usually leave the rear jack stands and the jack holding the rear up ,and the 12 ton jack stands on the front with the tires hanging just above the ramps, that way theres almost no chance the vette can fall, even if some component were to fail.
Ill ALSO point out I have and have always used two floor jacks, twin rino ramps and 4 12 ton jack stand WHEN I was under the corvette as I don,t want to be doing bench presses with a vette!
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Drain cooling system.
drain oil.(replace pan bolt)
Remove air cleaner.
remove the spark plugs
turn the engine over by hand until the TDC mark on the damper aligns with the timing tab, on the timing cover, and you feel compression in #1 cylinder as you get close to TDC.
Remove serpentine belt.
Remove braces at the back of A/C compressor.
Disconnect wires at A/C compressor.
Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at TBI units.
Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket nuts and bolts.
Disconnect heater hoses at the block.
Disconnect fuel line clip at fuel pump cover plate.
Disconnect upper radiator hose at thermostat outlet.
Remove A/C compressor to mounting bracket bolt and ove compressor aside.
Remove mounting bracket.
Disconnect CFI harness at engine.
Disconnect cruise, detent and accelerator cables.
Remove distributor shield.
Remove distributor cap.
Remove 4 wire connector at distributor.
mark where the rotor points and remove the distributor
Disconnect detent cable bracket at intake.
Remove distributor.
Disconnect wires at oil pressure sending unit.
Remove oil pressure sending unit.
Disconnect necessary vacuum hoses.
Disconnect power steering hoses at rack and pinion.
Remove crankshaft pulley.
Disconnect bulkhead connector and necessary harness connectors.
Disconnect AIR hoses at converter check valve.
Move fuel lines aside.
Disconnect radiator hose at water pump.
Disconnect upper radiator hose at power steering reservoir bracket.
Raise vehicle.
Disconnect AIR pipe at exhaust manifold.
Remove AIR pipe at converter.
Disconnect "Y" pipe hanger.
Disconnect heat shields at "Y" pipe and converter.
Disconnect oxygen sensor wire.
Remove exhaust bolts at manifold.
Remove "Y" pipe at converter bolts.
Remove "Y" pipe.
Remove flywheel cover.
Remove torque converter bolts.
Loosen motor mount through bolts.
Remove motor mount to engine block bolts.
Remove bell housing bolts.
Disconnect knock sensor wire.
Disconnect ground cable at block.
Disconnect positive battery cable at battery and harness.
Remove right rear intake manifold bolt and install lift hook.
Support transmission with quality jack.
Install lifting device and lift engine enough to remove CFI ground at rear of left cylinder head.
Remove engine from vehicle.
Installation
For installation, reverse Removal procedures.
s.
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