Father & Son Chevy Build Project

be sure to invest in a wideband o2 meter with gauge and tune your nitrous with it, try to keep your afr in the 12.4-12.8 range when the nitrous kicks in, may have to play with the jetting a bit. i typically retard two degrees of ignition timing for ever 75 whp rate of nitrous, and run one heat range colder plugs for every 150hp hit (0-149 i run stock heat range, 150-300 i run one colder, 300-500 i run one colder still, and over 500hp of nitrous you're on your own there). every cylinder head likes a different gap so i wont begin to tell you how to gap em except for trial and error. they probably wont like being tighter than 28 or wider than 38 thousandths. i suppose that depends on your elevation too but my n/a or nitrous plugs are usually somewhere in that range
 
something really cool that i will probably incorporate in my v8 turbo project will be running a stand alone fuel enrichment system like this one from nitrous express (you can piece one together much cheaper)



http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15004-saf ... hanol.html

and running methanol in the tank or race gas if you prefer, this way you wont have to retard ignition timing for nitrous and can move at your full naturally aspirated potential, and spray it when you need it without sacrificing any ignition advance.
 

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Indy: Thanks for those links… I have read thru several of them and used the RPM sheet to give me an idea of what to expect. Much handier than using excel every time I think about gear ratios. Also gives me the feeling that I might be able to step up a bit more that 3.73... maybe 4.10?

87vette: Thanks for the feedback… I was also advised on the ductile iron top ring… he also mentioned Napier ring for the second but I haven’t shopped around much yet to see how to tell the difference. It's the shape, correct? Will try to spend some time sifting thru websites and catalogs after Thursday. Good info on the head hardware too… thanks!

Philly: I plan on wide band for sure! Going to order my controller this weekend most likely as I want to learn it a bit before I get close to swap time. I did run a dry shot on my tbi setup a few times… I had a separate timing map that I created for use… then set my injectors to fire full wide open/synch (I forget the tech term) at a pre-determined RPM under WOT and manually fired my nitrous when I hit that RMP… then just held it thru 1st and 2nd gear thru the lights. It was a fun experiment… and I had no knock counts on my data-logs at the time… still had a fat enough air fuel ratio to probably run it more. Easy to see why they call it giggle gas after that.
That’s a nifty gadget… might have to read up on that. I will piece together a new nitrous set up though once I have intake system setup for the conversion. Also, I gave most of the parts back to my neighbor as he is planning on using it to help spool up on the line.
 
I would not get too crazy with Nitrous & Stock iron Vortec Heads.
They flow decent but the Decks are somewhat thin.
If you get addicted to Nitrous Drag Racing invest in a premium set of Brodix Race Heads.
Limit nitrous shots to 175 Hp for now.
Nitrous piston ring sets.....
Total Seal.
Speed Pro.
 
Be sure to use 110 motor octane Race Gas with Nitrous.
Don't cheat & mix it with pee water pump gas.
 
but brian, 175 is such a funny number! doesnt 200hp sound like a much more round figure? people ask how much nitrous you spray? would you rather say "one-seventy-five" or "TOO HUNNIT MOTHERFUCKA!"


:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
87vette81big said:
Be sure to use 110 motor octane Race Gas with Nitrous.
Don't cheat & mix it with pee water pump gas.


yea thats why the stand alone system for nitrous fuel is so great, because you arent wasting money driving around on q16, it only comes on when you spray it! personally i think the methanol hits hardest of all the nitrous fuels... just for everyones information.
 
Weeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!

Thanks guys! I needed a cheer up! Office is kickin' my ass today! I'm not getting silly with this build... will keep it pretty low as I have only temporariy plans for this motor... teaching/learning and a working mock up model for what we hope to have later.
 
philly said:
but brian, 175 is such a funny number! doesnt 200hp sound like a much more round figure? people ask how much nitrous you spray? would you rather say "one-seventy-five" or "TOO HUNNIT MOTHERFUCKA!"


:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Nitrous Oxide is Fantastic for Winning the Byron World Wheelie contest near me.
I have seen at least $250k in Race engines destroyed from Nitrous shots 250-1000Hp.
Those guys no longer racing.
Filed Business & Personal Bankruptsy.
Race cars &shops gone.
A memory.
I am the only one out of the old group with the same car 20 years later.
My 70-1/2 TA.
Forgot to mention they are divorced & paying child support too.
I like the idea of Turbos better Phil for power adders.
 
87vette81big said:
philly said:
but brian, 175 is such a funny number! doesnt 200hp sound like a much more round figure? people ask how much nitrous you spray? would you rather say "one-seventy-five" or "TOO HUNNIT MOTHERFUCKA!"


:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Nitrous Oxide is Fantastic for Winning the Byron World Wheelie contest near me.
I have seen at least $250k in Race engines destroyed from Nitrous shots 250-1000Hp.
Those guys no longer racing.
Filed Business & Personal Bankruptsy.
Race cars &shops gone.
A memory.
I am the only one out of the old group with the same car 20 years later.
My 70-1/2 TA.
Forgot to mention they are divorced & paying child support too.
I like the idea of Turbos better Phil for power adders.

well im a die hard turbo guy... but every once in a while a turbo setup may not be enough and its nice to have that bottle out back to pick up the slack when the money is on the line
 
I prefer cubic inches, a razor sharp dialed combo, Solid Axle Rear, Big tube headers & king kong sized exhaust system.
Sticky tires too.
 
87vette81big said:
I prefer cubic inches, a razor sharp dialed combo, Solid Axle Rear, Big tube headers & king kong sized exhaust system.
Sticky tires too.


i hear ya, but sometimes believe me the guy in the next lane is still faster. its good feeling to have that safety net
 
Once the car is dialed in its up to the driver to win.
Around 500 Hp on the street, hooking up clean & fast gets you ahead.
If the car can pull hard in 3rd gear if stickshift up to 95-100, you likely will win.
 
i need to move to illinois... 500 lb ft of torque in a 3000 pound car barely gets you a seat at the table down here. certainly doesnt make a champion street car
 
philly said:
i need to move to illinois... 500 lb ft of torque in a 3000 pound car barely gets you a seat at the table down here. certainly doesnt make a champion street car
Lol.
They are real fast up in Chicago.
Remember I am 1 hour South of them.
Fastest cars typical around me a Supercharged Cobras.
A GT Ford.
A few drag cars never street driven.
A few sleeper street rods too.
 
Some fast street cars around here… I’m just an observer. Makes me feel like I’m building a go-cart when I hang out with those guys. I just want to increase my grin factor a bit ;)
 
back in the mid 1970s we had this one guy, most of us knew from high school, who lived in a crappy area, a few miles from our neighborhood, that owned a 1957 Chevy 2 door ,he had stripped out , the interior, he had added a fiber glass hood and trunk, and installed a strait axle from an econoline van in the front , to reduce weight and give the car a 'gaser look' and had used a 9" ford rear differential with 3.50 series gears, and ladder bars,in the rear,with cheater slicks etc.
he then installed a 1968 390 hp 427 corvette engine ,he had added headers ,a 4 speed muncie , a single aluminum race seat, minimal roll cage and glass pack mufflers and thought he had the fastest car in the area., it was loud and looked impressive when I was in my 20s , but it was only a low 12 second car, as he had zero idea how to match gear ratios, select tires, adjust a suspension, etc. and seemed to seriously think that easily generating lots of tire smoke from a hard launch with street tire style cheater slicks during a burn-out was all that was required to prove you had a fast car!
his car looked very similar to this but it was a two tone white and green, paint and had a large tear drop hood scoop similar to the second picture below.
none of my friends would hang out with this kid as we were all fairly sure he was a car thief, as he constantly had parts from newer cars for sale, but never held a job, as far as we could tell, and always wanted to meet you in some supermarket parking lot to sell parts, never his house or garage....if he even had one! and never wanted to give you a bill of sale, and would only deal in cash.
57strait.jpg

55ChevyBlackTeardrop-vi.jpg

this kid was convinced he had the fastest car in town, well until he bet LARRY B... and bet him $200 at least,....
too run for a match race , for the best 2 out of three runs at the local track, where LARRY B, managed too "JUST BARELY" stay about 1/2 a car length ahead of the kids 57 Chevy on all three runs....."and un-known to the kid ,could easily have made that several car lengths and really embarrassing"

1965buickz.jpg


remember these threads?

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=9768&p=36769&hilit=buick+caddy#p36769

viewtopic.php?f=105&t=10276&p=41491&hilit=buick+caddy#p41491
keep in mind $200 was over two weeks pay for most of us back then! and the only reason we knew LARRY got paid was both guys had to hand over $200 too an independent party who was one of the local kids fathers " and a COP" who was into hot rods as long as we kept the racing at the local track!
 
Quick question… I’m finding that my carbide burrs are a bit on the short side… does anyone have a recommendation for ordering burrs on a 4” or 6” mandrel? Not looking to buy a whole set… just a couple of oval burrs probably. I know there is probably a thread with a link somewhere… but so far I haven’t located one.
Thanks!
 
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