I made the plunge

mathd

mathd

solid fixture here in the forum
As you know, i needed my hood painted and car painting has something to it that get me.
Instead to pay a shop to do it i decided it would be more cost effective to invest in some equipment as i will need more painting done to that car later(a/b pillar on driver side, rad support wich is to be changed, front nose that is cracked, some chip on fender and so on)

So i went ahead and bought a devilbiss finishline 3 HVLP (waterborne compatible)spray gun with air pressure valve for base/clear coat and a cheap 80$ carquest spray gun for primer.
Now i just need an air compressor(am stuck to small size as there is 120v availlable only) but i wont be painting whole car, just small parts at once (door, fender or hood size as you know) so am looking at some 20 gallon 7.4cfm@40psi.
My hvlp need 13cfm@23psi or a 3hp compressor, all local guy tell me it will be ok for small job like my hood.

I know i should buy bigger, but i cant add 220volt for now(budget) and dont really plan to because it is only small job not whole cars that will be done(am not using powertool very often anyway, and once the car is painted it wont be used much..). Am fine with needing to wait for it to refill when using powertool but i want to be able to do one full complete coat on my hood at least(it can refill between coats while the paint flash).
I have been looking at used for a while now but none come up that fit my need and budget.
I could rent a compressor and buy bigger later, but again on 120volt there no bigger that 20-32 gallon availlable and i want to avoid renting so i can take it easy and work on it whenever i feel for it :)

Anyway am enthusiast and pretty sure it will yeld a good result for my small needs.
I have been reading and watching videos since the past few days to learn as much as i can, advices are welcome.
 
Not sure about Canada, but here if you have 120v, then you have 220v available. It's just a matter of running new wires from the breaker box, using two 120v circuits combined. Do some research!

Don't forget about the moisture in the air, you might need an air dryer and filter.

 
Yeah we have 220 volt at the house, i think am gonna rent a 120v unit to paint my hood and then get a 220volt 60 gal later this year.
 
I was checking price for a 220volt compressor
The Husky Pro model in your post that sell for 375$ sell for 730$ here what a steal.
Can't find any new 220volt compressor under 700$. The only used availlable right now is a 80 gallon 5 hp at 960$ with new moto.
 
mathd said:
I was checking price for a 220volt compressor
The Husky Pro model in your post that sell for 375$ sell for 730$ here what a steal.
Can't find any new 220volt compressor under 700$. The only used availlable right now is a 80 gallon 5 hp at 960$ with new moto.
Click to expand...
Where are you with the compressor situation ??? How hard is 220v going to be to install, will you have to run cable from the house where the fuse panel is ???
 
Indycars said:
mathd said:
I was checking price for a 220volt compressor
The Husky Pro model in your post that sell for 375$ sell for 730$ here what a steal.
Can't find any new 220volt compressor under 700$. The only used availlable right now is a 80 gallon 5 hp at 960$ with new moto.
Click to expand...
Where are you with the compressor situation ??? How hard is 220v going to be to install, will you have to run cable from the house where the fuse panel is ???
Click to expand...
Where i am, well i will be finishing my curent repairs(rear torque boxes/frame rail) re-assemble my rear leafspring/drivetrain with traction bars and subframe connector.
I need to reassemble the inside of the car "seat/trim" fix my passager side door hinge and adjustment and then i will be ready to work on that hood.
Am in no hurry about the hood i can take the car out and do the hood later this year, its just esthetic.

Yes will have to run a cable and its not hard at all(still dont know why i was trying to convice myself to stay with 120volt)
There is already an underground PCV pipe for the 110volt, the ground is frozen but its easy to push that cable in the existing PCV pipe.
Yes fuse panel is at the house, i plan on using a circuit braker and a 220volt outlet for the compressor.

Am looking locally at used for a good deal. If none come up by the time i am ready for that hood i will get something brandnew.

I still need to buy lots of stuff like sanding block, primer, paint and so on.
 
mathd said:
Yes will have to run a cable and its not hard at all(still dont know why i was trying to convice myself to stay with 120volt)
There is already an underground PCV pipe for the 110volt, the ground is frozen but its easy to push that cable in the existing PCV pipe.
Yes fuse panel is at the house, i plan on using a circuit braker and a 220volt outlet for the compressor.
Click to expand...
Have you considered putting a sub panel in the garage, so you can 220v for other things, plus when you need more 120v circuits it will be much easier to run those also.

The question I have...... is the PVC big enough to run some BIG cable to the sub panel.

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=3504&p=9220&hilit=wire+sizes#p9220

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=5


 

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The pcv pipe is about 2 " diameter. i think it should be enough,
Yes we did think about a sub panel, that will probably take place later(local electrician friend who will get a used one for cheap)
 
Here is some picture of what has been done the past few day or week.
Picture of the traction bars and subframe conenctor on(with new body bushings), dont have a picture of the new rear sway bar bushing, had to use a fine thread grade 8 bolt to drive that aluminium bushing in for the driver side.
DSCN0555.jpg

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Picture of the new spray gun
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Here is a picture of the Rusted torque box (underneath the.. rusted floor) that needed to be repaired.
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Here is a shot of while it was being repaied(ungrinded welds as they will be covered with the floor and it is stronger)
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Here is a shot after it was repaired
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Picture of a brand new top end for a 2003 rm125 i had to rebuild in between.
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Here is a picture of the driver side that was done today
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And there where i stopped my work after some back pain at the shoulder and some beer :)
DSCN0556.jpg
 
congrats on completing some of the sheet metal repairs , I know I tend to DETEST doing that stuff, but its a required part of the repairs on so many older muscle cars you eventually get to do that kind of work.
many times you can find whole replacement floor pans from junk yard or salvage yard donor cars that are in better condition, on the more popular cars theres even replacement aftermarket floor and quarter and frame sections available , but knowing how to fabricates critical as youll always find that at least some parts either far to expensive or unavailable.
one advantage in working with corvettes is that most of the parts ARE available (but darn expensive)

I can,t see how ANYONE can be serious about this hobby and not own a 220 volt, 180-230 amp MIG OR TIG WELDER a decent drill press and a few other tools like a compressor , decent jack stands, a floor jack, a mechanics creeper,etc. in their shop, simply because of how frequently you use those tools

http://www.c2cfabrication.com/store/adv ... 7AodgGqFjA

http://www.rustrepair.com/floor_pan.htm

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mum ... ewall.html

http://www.andysautosport.com/chevrolet ... loor_pans/

http://www.americanrestorationparts.com ... parts.aspx

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy51TrwtQDo

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/publi ... -metal.cfm

http://www.classicfabrication.com/
 
grumpyvette said:
congrats on completing some of the sheet metal repairs , I know I tend to DETEST doing that stuff, but its a required part of the repairs on so many older muscle cars you eventually get to do that kind of work.
many times you can find whole replacement floor pans from junk yard or salvage yard donor cars that are in better condition, on the more popular cars theres even replacement aftermarket floor and quarter and frame sections available , but knowing how to fabricates critical as youll always find that at least some parts either far to expensive or unavailable.
one advantage in working with corvettes is that most of the parts ARE available (but darn expensive)
Click to expand...
I dont hate doing this but sometime it seem like it is endless or progress is slow, but once its done i think it wasnt that hard finally.

Yeah, there is lots of replacement sheet metal availlable for these camaros, but the rear part of the floor is not(even with the "full size" replacement floor pan) and the torque box is not reproduced for any 2nd gen camaro so far, since its impossible to get a donor with acceptable torque boxes had to reproduce them myself.
The front inner fender is availlable but it was an unplanned repair didnt want to wait weeks for the whole inner fender since i knew the area i had to repair is hidden under the batteray tray and it would still looks acceptable.

Getting a parts car is just impossible in canada as most are back halved or rusted in the same areas.
 
Thanks you :)

Indycars said:
Now that's a lot of nice work you've done !!!

Where do you get your metal from ?
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Its laminated sheet metal, i used 20 gauge and 16 gauge its comming from a local (ferblanterie) called ferblanterie cinq-mars
I usually pay about 20$ for a sheet of 3x3 feet(or whatever size i need)
 
Ok some progress, no picture sorry.
Adjusted the door, fixed the hinges re-assembled the whole interior, made some connection for the knock alert and lm-2, fixed the hand/parking brake.
Now i just need to cut my hood to fit my hilborn style carb scoop and paint it(the hood).
Tomorrow am going to place order for the compressor should be there in 24-48 hour and some 240 volt stuff, get the color code for the paint and some paint/primer/bondo/sanding stuff.

Am still unsure about what form to cut the hole in my hood.
right now its round, and if i set the hilborn style scoop on you can't open the hood..
So i want to cut the hood so it fit but am still unsure wich way to go.
I included a picture, if i cut the rear round(left exemple) the hood will remain stronger. As for apparance i have no clue, am not good really with esthetic.
Let me know what you think is best.

Should be ready mid may.(it was still too cold outside to take her out now anyway).
 

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mathd said:
Ok some progress, no picture sorry.
Adjusted the door, fixed the hinges re-assembled the whole interior, made some connection for the knock alert and lm-2, fixed the hand/parking brake.
Sounds like you have been busy! Tooo busy to take pictures I guess. :cool:

Now i just need to cut my hood to fit my hilborn style carb scoop and paint it(the hood).
Tomorrow am going to place order for the compressor should be there in 24-48 hour and some 240 volt stuff, get the color code for the paint and some paint/primer/bondo/sanding stuff.
We need details man! :) What kind of compressor did you buy and where?

Am still unsure about what form to cut the hole in my hood.
right now its round, and if i set the hilborn style scoop on you can't open the hood..
So i want to cut the hood so it fit but am still unsure which way to go.

I included a picture, if i cut the rear round(left example) the hood will remain stronger. As for appearance i have no clue, am not good really with esthetic.
Let me know what you think is best.
I like the left side better, simply because all straight lines don't add any interest for the eye! Unless you have something that would be visible under the hood that you want others to get a peak at, I would think cutting the smallest hole that allows the hood to open and close would look best. JMHO

Should be ready mid may.(it was still too cold outside to take her out now anyway).
Click to expand...
 
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