with all the talk about riots and civil unrest and buildings and homes, being burnt to the ground,
along with the people inside them, as a result of the news shows promoting violence and ,
law enforcement ignoring left wing riots ,I and others see these tv programs,
about that recent incident in Missouri, I was asked what rifle Id grab,
if I was looking for a military style rifle to defend my home,THE M1A every time!
BTW the british military did an extensive test study with both trained soldiers and un-trained recruits
in both cases semi auto fire resulted in many more hits on targets per minute,
that's why many L1A rifles issued were semi auto only
and got a chance to spend a bit of time at the local rifle range.
maybe just my age and experience showing, but if given the option to carry any service rifle,
Id instantly select a heavy stainless steel, barrel M14 , while its true I could carry more ammo for a given weight in the smaller AR platform ,military use of the AR15/CLONE OF THE M4 or M16 is based on short burst,(3-5 shots in most cases) fully automatic fire capability something you can't have in the AR15 civilian version.
BTW use of expanding 168-172 grain bullets greatly increases lethality
use powders like (below)and federal 215 primers for excellent accuracy
BL-C(2)
IMR 4895
H4895
Varget
IMR 4064®
don't load for the top velocity , you can get, load for the most consistently accurate ammo
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Id vastly prefer the extra several hundred yards of extra reach and knock down and penetration the .308 caliber ,over the .223.
and If given the option Id sure like a bullet resistant vest with a dozen magazines and an M1A1 heavy barrel rifle with a bi-pod
shooting lots of ammos nice, but the object of a battle rifle is too be able too put holes through some guy, and the guy standing behind him, well before he can do the same thing to you,
and an M14 has proven for decades that it can reach out to impressive range with accurate shot placement.
or as an older guy I know says
the difference between an ak47 and an m14 reminds me of the difference between thunder and lightning,
thunders impressive and makes a lot of noise.....lightning splits trees in half, and starts fires
(the concept of making your shots count and accurate shot placement seems lost on the "SPRAY AND PRAY" mentality)
this seems a bit like the military where the 223 has a less than ideal reputation and the 7.62 has long been considered far more effective, but because the average soldier can carry twice as many 223 vs 7.62 for the weight , and the 223 is easier to control under full auto fire ,the 223 was selected.
(personally Id rather trust my life to a m 14 and carry 300 cartridges than a ar 15 with 600 cartridges) simply because I know the m14 reaches out further punches through more cover and one decent center mass hits usually fatal, and the guy behind the guy can also be killed. (I'm not a fan of spray & pray tactic, ) where you put a great many shots in the area of your target, AND PRAY YOULL HIT SOMETHING TACTICS ) yes spray and pray occasionally works. ..people win lotto drawings every few weeks also
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=67&v=9Y4nSBiqN38
http://www.chuckhawks.com/affordable_accuracy.htm
http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/03/daniel-zimmerman/upgrading-the-m1a-a-gunsmiths-perspective/
https://www.fulton-armory.com/M14-Rifles.aspx
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMBj9Jbnz38
only HITS on the INTENDED target count and its a well proven fact that a skilled rifleman with an accurate semi-auto rifle can do an amazing amount of damage with far less ammo expended, than someone with a full auto carbine with less accuracy, range and penetration.
full auto fire looks impressive, but its generally used to reduce incoming fire rates by keeping the enemy's head down and forcing them to seek cover rather than actually taking them out of action. a well placed hit can permanently end a fight, a hail storm of lead sprayed in the general direction may not do that.
the reason I bring this concept up is I recently went to a local range and the only range positions available at the time were two benches at the 200 yard range, my local neighbor has an AK carbine which hes absolutely convinced is the best rifle to own, if theres ever a need to defend ones family in a civil emergency that he occasionally fantasizes about, an ak IS DESIGNED FOR rapid repeatable suppressive fire, and it excels at combat under 100 yards, its not ideal for precise target hits out at 250-600 yards where a skilled rifleman with an M14 has an advantage
for the few uneducated members
clips are frequently used to transport ammo, and efficiently quickly, refill magazines
and I had a single shot falling block browning 78 in caliber 300 wby, equipped with iron sights, we both set up our targets at 200 yards,and trust me with these 66 year old eyes iron sights at 200 yards are not ideal, but I wanted to try it out! that rifles hardly the ideal defensive fire arm, but it allowed me to test my eyes out at longer range targets and its iron sites which SUCK compared to the sights on an M1A1, brought back lots of memories of the M1A1.
yet after the first relay we walked down too checked targets and while my group was about 6" in diameter and slightly high on the target, backer, all my shots were on the paper ,centered about 4" high, he had fired 30 shots to my 6 during the same time frame, and not had a single shot cut paper, and he swears his carbines sighted dead on at 50 yards.
having used an M14 and M1A1 in the past, and while having a good deal of respect for the AK, platform, and being fully aware of both its long range and short range potential, Id grab an M1A1 any time I felt the need for a defensive weapon if given the choice, simply because I feel far more competent, it it as something I can trust
http://www.keepshooting.com/review/product/list/id/209/category/8/
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/mil-spec-20-rd-m14-m1a-mag?a=148200
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HBFTQPwlrA
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=308 Winchester&Weight=All&type=Rifle&Source=
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-7XYaeIf0g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oi9GGdPPds
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products03.01.html
http://www.americanrifleman.org/article ... -m1a-rifle
http://www.fulton-armory.com/m14-m1a-2.aspx
http://www.fulton-armory.com/M14-Rifles.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/magazines/rifl ... 27330.aspx
http://www.springfield-armory.com/m1a-series/
http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/M1Garand_ ... wp3393.htm
MAGAZINES
http://www.keepshooting.com/review/product/list/id/209/category/8/
M14 Gas cylinder wrench
Castle nut pliers
Flat-head screwdriver
M14 Combination tool
Plastic hammer
Propane torch
Barrel vise
M14 barrel lug wrench
Metal bonding solution
Instructions to replace m14 barrel
1
Remove the magazine. Pull the operating to the rear. Inspect the chamber to ensure that no live ammunition is present.
2
Pull back on the operating rod handle. This action will disengage the bolt-stop, and the bolt will close forward.
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3
Engage the safety. Push the rear of the trigger guard toward the butt stock. This action will unlock the trigger guard. Pull the trigger guard up and forward. Lift up on the trigger guard to remove the entire trigger assembly from the weapon.
4
Lift the barrel and receiver assembly up and out of the stock. Set the stock aside.
5
Hold the guide rod and spring in place with one hand. Slide the connector lock -- located directly in front of the guide rod and spring on the receiver -- to the right to free the guide rod and spring. Slowly and carefully guide the spring and rod out of the weapon.
6
Pull the operating rod to the rear. Line the rod up with the small horizontal notch groove on the receiver. Pivot and lift the operating rod out of the receiver. Pull the bolt out of the receiver.
7
Loosen the round nut set-screw located on the flash suppressor with a fitting screwdriver. Fit the gas cylinder wrench onto the gas cylinder lock -- located 2 inches in front of the forward stock --and hold it in place with firm pressure. Attach the castle nut pliers to the flash suppressor. Turn the flash suppressor counterclockwise to remove it.
8
Turn the weapon on its right side. Keep the gas cylinder wrench in place. Depress the gas spindle valve screw with a flat-head screwdriver. This screw is located immediately in front of the forward stock. Turn the screw counterclockwise until the slots of the screw are horizontal, in line with the barrel.
9
Keeping the gas cylinder wrench in place, attach the M14 combination tool to the gas cylinder plug. The plug is located under the barrel on the gas block. Turn the gas cylinder plug counterclockwise and remove it.
10
Take the gas cylinder wrench off the gas cylinder lock. Turn the gas cylinder lock counterclockwise, then remove it. Tilt the muzzle toward the floor. The gas piston will drop out.
11
Tap the gas cylinder forward and off the weapon using a plastic hammer. Slide the front hand guard band off the weapon. Slide the wooden hand guard forward and off the weapon.
12
Secure the barrel in a barrel vise. Hold a propane torch on the barrel lug for 45 seconds. This will burn off the metal binding solution that was used during assembly.
13
Place the barrel lug wrench on the barrel lug nut at the front of the receiver. Turn the barrel lug wrench counterclockwise using great pressure until the barrel loosens and unscrews.
14
Apply metal bonding solution to the barrel threads. Screw the new barrel on, turning clockwise. Place a standard ruler on the front sight base and another ruler on the rear sight base. Use the barrel lug wrench to tighten the barrel until the rulers are level with each other. This ensures that the barrel is properly aligned. The barrel changing process is now complete.
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