new project

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jteu2002

Active Member
been gone for long time but i am back now
got a project
want a WE fun car streetwarrior
got a dart with forged internals and flat top pistons
AFR 220 comptition heads (valve seat pressure 130/370 valve lift .600)
bowtie intake
850 dubble pump ore modified Qjet
th 400 /4500 stall converter
275/60x15
1980 G body

please give feedback on the part i want to buy (ore better suggestions )
lunati 60113 roller hydraulic
rear gear 3.4 ore 3.7
ignition
torque converter 3200rpm
 
jteu2002 said:
been gone for long time but i am back now
got a project
want a WE fun car streetwarrior
got a dart with forged internals and flat top pistons
AFR 220 comptition heads (valve seat pressure 130/370 valve lift .600)
bowtie intake
850 dubble pump ore modified Qjet
th 400 /4500 stall converter
275/60x15
1980 G body

please give feedback on the part i want to buy (ore better suggestions )
lunati 60113 roller hydraulic
rear gear 3.4 or 3.7
ignition
torque converter 3200rpm
Click to expand...
heres the specs on that lunati cam,

Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,800-6,400
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 243
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 251
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 243 int./251 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 294
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 302
Advertised Duration: 294 int./302 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.560 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.565 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.560 int./0.565 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110



Im a bit confused as you list two stall speeds for the converter, and two rear gear ratios
220 CC afr heads come with either 65CC and 75CC combustion chambers, and you failed to list your DART SBC engine displacement or the cars weight?
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_115
 
i think he has a 4500 stall and is asking if he should get a 3200 stall
Seem like he dont have the gear yet, and is asking wich one to get 3.4 or 3.7
 
mathd said:
i think he has a 4500 stall and is asking if he should get a 3200 stall
Seem like he dont have the gear yet, and is asking wich one to get 3.4 or 3.7
Click to expand...

yep thats it i still need to buy the cam /hyd rollers/ gears/headers/ converter /ignition system

the top are the parts i got already
the bottem are the parts i am concidering

car is a Gbody cutlass supreme 1980 probaly weighs around 3500-4000 lbs
408 cid (4.165 bore )SBC 5.7 rods flattop pistons (4 cc )
75 CC chamber
and i got 8x1.5 / 8x 1.6 rockers
 
given the limited choices ,that cam should be used with a 3.73:1 rear gear ratio, and the tallest tires you can currently fit comfortably in the cars wheel wells, and while the 4500rpm stall is a bit higher than ideal, (Id have selected a 3200-3400rpm stall) the fact that you already own the 4500rpm stall converter would have me using that , converter if moneys tight.
those 220c AFR heads are designed to operate in the upper rpm range so Id suggest a full length 3" exhaust and 1 3/4" headers with about 36" primary's and a fairly long collector and (X) pipe, to allow the heads to function and cylinders to scavenge, Id also suggest a large trans fluid cooler with a auxiliary powered cooling fan be used, I'd look carefully at where you have room to install the cooler and Id look for one like these, i use the lower one on my vette

http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15950/10002/-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-12318/overview/



viewtopic.php?f=57&t=176
 
grumpyvette said:
given the limited choices ,that cam should be used with a 3.73:1 rear gear ratio, and the tallest tires you can currently fit comfortably in the cars wheel wells, and while the 4500rpm stall is a bit higher than ideal, (Id have selected a 3200-3400rpm stall) the fact that you already own the 4500rpm stall converter would have me using that , converter if moneys tight.
those 220c AFR heads are designed to operate in the upper rpm range so Id suggest a full length 3" exhaust and 1 3/4" headers with about 36" primary's and a fairly long collector and (X) pipe, to allow the heads to function and cylinders to scavenge, Id also suggest a large trans fluid cooler with a auxiliary powered cooling fan be used, I'd look carefully at where you have room to install the cooler and Id look for one like these, i use the lower one on my vette

http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15950/10002/-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-12318/overview/



viewtopic.php?f=57&t=176
Click to expand...
I didnt post it, since i have limited knowleges, but i was gonna say 3.7 rear gear and 3500 stall.
This cam look goof for that engine, but i also think those heads are not idea.
 
grumpy i do not have the cam yet i was just thinking to buy that one other cam is still possible
the converter is just been rebuild but if it is to lose i will buy another one and sell thise one
i got a similar tranny cooler already in my stock pile
the exhaust i am looking for not to expencive headers and mufflers also
 
i completly for got i still got a new cam in my treasure chest
it is a crane 114681 thise is probably the best /cheapest way to make
a good street fun engine for my cutlass
 
crane114681.jpg

Ive used that cam in several 383-407 engines,installed in camaros, novas and even early chevelles, it works rather well with 4 series rear gears a manual trans or a 3200 rpm stall converter and at least 10:1 or preferably higher compression. IT needs headers and a low restriction exhaust and its always seemed to work best with a good dual plane intake like the rpm air gap and a 750cfm-850cfm vac secondary carb. obviously, using decent cylinder heads with 190cc-220cc heads can be useful, so your use of that cam fits your build fairly well, its obviously not a roller lifter cam, but for a flat tappet, solid lifter cam its one of my favorites, and adding 1.6:1 roller rockers won,t hurt either
 
1000 $ i can spend on other stuff that way make up forthe lost of a few ponnies
i got 1.6 rockers for the intake 1.5 for the ex.
 
i am thinking of rebuilding/upgread a Qjet and give that a try if not good i still have the 1000 extra $$$
for a dual plain rpm airgap and a vac 850
 
while I re- build Qjets , and tune them occasionally, I VASTLY prefer the HOLLEY and EDELBROCK carb designs
 
The stock G body rear is a Dinky 7.5" ring gear with 26-spline axle shafts.
Just 350 ft/lbs of flywheel enginect orque will cause it to grenade apart.
Buick Grand National 8.5" rear is stronger but not enough still for this application.
12- bolt better but still marginal strength.
Dana 60 Rear the best option.
Need 4.56 gears to make a true street warrior normally aspirated most combos with 4500 stall.
If ypu have at least 440 cubic inches rear gearing becomes not so critical on the street.
Making 500 + ft/lbs. off idle to redline with mild cams .
 
The stock G body driveshaft is weak too.
They will twist in 2 with a 400 Hp engine. Seen it happen.
Just a Dinky 2" inch diameter soft steel driveshaft.
Aftermarket Strange Engineering or Mark Wiliams best.
4.56 gears get the heavy 1978-87 G body GM 4,000 pound car moving nice off the line.
If you gut the car & set up for drag race, you can lighten 800-1,000 #'s less.
 
87vette81big said:
The stock G body rear is a Dinky 7.5" ring gear with 26-spline axle shafts.
Just 350 ft/lbs of flywheel enginect orque will cause it to grenade apart.
Buick Grand National 8.5" rear is stronger but not enough still for this application.
12- bolt better but still marginal strength.
Dana 60 Rear the best option.
Need 4.56 gears to make a true street warrior normally aspirated most combos with 4500 stall.
If ypu have at least 440 cubic inches rear gearing becomes not so critical on the street.
Making 500 + ft/lbs. off idle to redline with mild cams .
Click to expand...

or you could be a real rebel and save alot of money putting a ford 8.8 in it!

all the gm guys at once say NOOOOOOO!
 
philly said:
87vette81big said:
The stock G body rear is a Dinky 7.5" ring gear with 26-spline axle shafts.
Just 350 ft/lbs of flywheel enginect orque will cause it to grenade apart.
Buick Grand National 8.5" rear is stronger but not enough still for this application.
12- bolt better but still marginal strength.
Dana 60 Rear the best option.
Need 4.56 gears to make a true street warrior normally aspirated most combos with 4500 stall.
If ypu have at least 440 cubic inches rear gearing becomes not so critical on the street.
Making 500 + ft/lbs. off idle to redline with mild cams .
Click to expand...

or you could be a real rebel and save alot of money putting a ford 8.8 in it!

all the gm guys at once say NOOOOOOO!
Click to expand...
The Ford 8.8 " is actually a pretty good rear.
Build with Strange 33-spline axles. C-clip elimanators.
Full Race spool. Rear diff cover brace.
Near copy cat of the Chevy 12-bolt Chevelle-Camaro rear
 
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