READ THIS THREAD
a few facts!
ALL of us eventually find were forced to deal with a broken stud or bolt,or sensor that breaks off in the block or heads,it helps a great deal to lower your chances of busting off or stripping a bolt by soaking it in penetrating oil and heating and rapidly cooling it in repeated cycles at the first indication a bolt or studs stuck rather than trying to force it, what your trying to free up, and remove and replace it, hopefully without needing to repair the threads, and its location will determine to a great extent the method youll use to deal with that problem.matter, as to the method to be used in freeing up the bolt threads, and the tools, lubricants or process youll find useful, yeah! we ALL screw up! but with experience you learn some restraint and you learn to take your time!
IN MOST CASES SOAKING WITH A GOOD PENETRATING & LUBRICATING SPRAY< AND SOME REPEATED HEATING AND FREEZING CYCLES, WITH A TORCH AND FREEZE SPRAY, and REPEATED SPRAY OF THAT PENETRATING OIL WILL FREE UP THE THREADS ON THE BROKEN PART, ENOUGH FOR AN EXTRACTOR BIT TO SPIN IT OUT IF PROPERLY USED
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFdFsfSAuyc
EXAMPLE
small bolts like brake bleeder valves on brake calipers, heating the area with a propane torch and rapidly cooling metal with a freeze spray rapidly , cycling the temps tends to have the metal expand and contract, loosening the bond in the rusted or corroded threads, because they expand and contract unevenly, this can be very useful in allowing you to soak in and use various penetrating lubricants to free up jammed threads
BUSTED OR STRIPPED THREADS CAN BE REPAIRED THRU USE OF A HELICOIL OR WELDING AND DRILLING & RE-TAPPING
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-repair-kits/=wjqvpt
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1262&p=2712&hilit=taps+dies#p2712
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4714&p=18266#p18266
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/wheel-studs-and-replacement.4414/#post-55060
Ive used marvel mystery oil and acetone mixed 50%/50% for decades as a penetrating oil and it works better than most of the commercial mixtures In spray cans Ive tried IF you soak the nut/bolt repeatedly then let it set over night especially if you heat the bolt with a torch and cool it with that mix a few times so it expands and contracts with heat, and the mix gets to penetrate a bit and seep into micro cracks
yeah, IF I was your local machine shop Id welcome these type of repair jobs, I'd be thrilled to make a quick $30-$40 for what might take them 15 minutes to do and cost them less than $4 TOO!
having access to the correct tools and the skill and knowledge to use them correctly makes a job the average guy finds rather challenging a whole lot less difficult
WATCH VIDEOS, YOULL LEARN A GOOD DEAL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52-37pPAJ0c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K34RS6M11uw
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-Pc-Tita ... 61411.html
stop think it thru ,yes its going to be a whole lot cheaper to buy and use the correct spray, penetrating oil or freeze spray to freeze and contract the bolts diam. or heat the surrounding metal and rapidly cool it with penetrating oil than it will be to use tools than it will be sometimes used incorrectly to bugger up, and strip the bolt hole, or bolt threads and need to re-weld and re-drill and tap the intake, brakes or what ever your working on, after you screw it up, buy the two sprays, both the freeze and lubricant sprays use the torch to heat the bolt, use the penetrate oil to cool and lube the bolt, use the freeze to loosen it easily
reverse twist drill bits can be useful
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... 7AodjQIAhw
(1)heating the brake fluid bleed fitting cherry red destroys the metals temper and hardness and makes it very easy to round off or sheer off the fitting (neither being ideal)
(2)the object is to loosen or replace the fitting without damage to the brakes, yes heating with a torch and rapid cooling with penetrating oil can and does frequently result in loosening the fitting but heating more than about 300F reduces the metals strength and frequently results in compounding the problem when the bleed valve fitting rounds off or breaks
heres the cure on those bleed valves
heat the area slightly spray oil to cool and penetrate then lay a shop rag on the brake calipers to cover all but the bleed fitting and spray with the freeze spray, the result is the fitting contracts faster than the surrounding metal freeing the threads in most cases on the first or second application of this COMBINED PROCESS of heat,penetrating oil, and rapid freezing of the valve rapidly followed by use of a long 6 point box wrench applying torque to the fitting, (BTW( a couple whacks with a plastic mallet can help in some cases
http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
lets assume youve busted an exhaust manifold bolt
these have been repeatedly heated and cooled so heating and spraying with a good penetrating oil is a good first try, use of the freeze spray can be very helpful IF you can grasp the bolt above the surface its screwed into,but if it sheared off flush you have little choice but to heat, use penetrating oil, and then use a center punch to dimple the broken bolt body, and drill it out the center of the bolt with drills that are slightly smaller diam (hopefully all the way thru, spray penetrating oil so it reaches both ends of the threads and use an EASY-OUT reverse rotation bit to extract the remaining section of busted bolt thread.
READ THE LINKED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=easyout#p1026
http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/b ... olts.shtml
WELDING A NUT ON A BOLT THATS SHEARED OFF WORKS AT TIMES
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRrz-cphBY4
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/rem ... -bolt.html
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=wel ... 9C64EDFC2D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6w2grAV-oc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BFUfGKU_ts
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=3283&p=8681&hilit=label#p8681
spray busted stud or bolt threads with penetrating oil
AT TIME I KNOW YOU GUYS HAD TO IGNORE READING THE LINKS
[b]youll frequently have issues with locations that make it difficult to hold the washer or nut centered over the busted stud while getting ready to weld due to either clearance or lack of having 3 hands available, most of the non-WELDERS MIGHT SUGGEST MAGNETS ,but as most welders soon learn direct heat or an electrical arc kills magnets rapidly, DUCT tape tends to hold long enough to allow the MIG OR TIG welder to form a BEAD but it will of course burn in seconds. many times you can use a spare TIG welding rod bent into a long hook to some higher support point and wrapped around the nut plus duct tape or a long wood dowel wedged in place to get that temporary placement issue handled
find a matching washer and nut , placing a fender washer as a shield washer under the nut your welding to the busted bolt or stud helps prevent weld from attaching to anything but the threaded shaft, and the heat drives the penetrating oil into the threads, duct tape and or long needle nose plies come in handy holding it in place and a MIG or TIG welder is preferred
fill the nut with weld and get the weld pool of molten metal to attach to the busted stud so concentrate on the center heat area
removed busted stud or bolt with nut welded on
in an ideal world youll have a decent center punch
Q: What causes an exhaust manifold stud/bolt to break?
A: The exhaust manifolds are formed from the factory using fine grain cast iron, and like most metals, it expands and contracts during duty cycles of heating and cooling. This expansion happens naturally, and at first, the manifold and mounting studs are in a state of “elastic deformation.” Elastic deformation is basically expansion and contraction over a period of time retaining the original size and shape. Each duty cycle will provide tension stress on the studs or bolts that hold the manifold in place. The mounting hardware exhibits flexibility over time. However, as the manifold continues to expand and contract more dimensionally, each consecutive time creates larger and larger tension forces that move beyond the elastic state of deformation and become what is referred to as “plastic deformation.” Basically the manifold stretches beyond return and fractures the mounting stud, leaving the manifold permanently deformed and dimensionally changed. This expansion and stretching of the manifold bolts over numerous duty cycles eventually causes too much tension on the bolt(s), stretching them beyond capacity and causing them to fail.
Information provided by: ProMaxx Tools
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... 4&ct=image
so the drill won,t wander, off center in the first bit of drilling the hole for the bolt extractor, soak with penetrating oil, insert extractor bit , inside the drilled hole and spin the bolt out as it grabs the bolt internally and allows you to rotate it counter clock wise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7ftJTUbp4o
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_5127433_use-easy-outs.html
RELATED THREADS
viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1264&p=6141&hilit=block+taps+threads#p6141
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=+rust+bolt+extractor#p1026
those freeze sprays seem to work best when you previously cycle or rapidly repeat an expansion contraction cycle several times, pre-heat the problem threads several times with a propane torch to about 250 degrees F and cool them off with a 50%/50% mix of marvel mystery oil and acetone then let the freeze spray free it up on about the third or forth heat-lube-cool freeze in rapid succession, that maximizes the expansion & contraction and tends to allow the penetrating lube to suck into the threads
one more place a IR temp gun comes in handy
http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm
when selecting an IR gun for automotive use, you really want to be able to read from 0 F deg-about 1400F deg. to cover most conditions you'll test for
keep some penertating oil/acetone, mix a torch, and freeze spray plus the IR temp gun, in the shop
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=easyout#p1026
http://www.freealloil.com/
http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.cfm
if you can drill thru the center of the broken bolt with a bit approximately 2/3 the diam. of the broken bolt, until the bit goes ALL the way thru then soak the $%^ out of it with FREEALL penetrating oil,(this stuffs amazing) this will allow the oil to soak in from both ends of the broken threaded section, let it soak at least 30 minute while you re-apply more spray oil every few minutes, then insert the easy out or reverse twist drill bit,and gently twist the broken bolt remains out of the threaded hole, BTW heating and cooling the bolt, helps. heat with a propane torch the cooling it with the spray oil helps to loosen its grip on the threads if its really stuck
http://www.jackstoolshed.com/index/page ... ll+Bit+Set
your local hard ware store probably has COBALT DRILL BITS, or DIAMOND DRILL BITS, but read the label you need, a bit rated for hard steel, take your time, drill a lower RPM speeds and keep the bit wet with spray oil AT ALL TIMES or it will burn and dull the edge, youll most likely need a 1/8" and a matching EASY OUT
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/drillfaq.htm
http://www.askthebuilder.com/How_To_Dri ... ideo.shtml
http://www.toolprice.com/category/screw ... drillbits/
http://www.toolprice.com/product/1218A/ ... moval.html
http://www.toolprice.com/product/8304D/ ... o_USA.html
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine
tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional
machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from
a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ................ 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ................ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix..............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone,
( IN MY EXPERIENCE MARVEL MYSTERY OIL AND ACETONE MIXED 50%/50% works slightly better and faster).
Note the "home brew" was better
than any commercial product in this one particular test.AND ID POINT OUT THAT MMO/ACETONE MIX PENETRATES QUICKLY AND SEEMS TO WORK WHERE MANY OTHER PENETRATING OIL FAILS
IF youve ever rounded off a flare nut, on a master cylinder, brake caliper,transmission or radiator and you want to prevent it from happening again, theres a simple procedure for getting them loose that works about 90% of the time
IN THE FUTURE WHEN DEALING WITH FLARE NUTS, IF THEY ARE NOT EASILY TURNED, STOP AND FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE
(1) spray with a good penetrating oil,
(2) heat briefly with propane torch, or acetylene torch
(3) spray with OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL like pb blaster / liquid wrench, freealloil etc. and tap frequently and lightly with a hammer on the broken stud or bolt to allow vibration to let the penetrating oil seep into the threads if it can,
http://www.freealloil.com/
(2) heat briefly with propane torch
(3) spray with
http://www.freealloil.com/ OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL like pb blaster / liquid wrench,\l etc.
(4) wait 5 minutes MINIMUM and RE-SPRAY with
http://www.freealloil.com/ OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL like pb blaster / liquid wrench, etc.
HEAT works in some cases but heat expands both the bolt and the area around it, repeated cycling of heat and rapid cooling with penetrating lubricant spray oil can help, but theres a different option, you can freeze the bolt, this contracts the metal and loosens it, and spray directly on the bolt shrinks it noticeably faster than the much larger mass surounding it, so try both options
(5)spray for a minimum of 15-16 seconds with
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Freeze-Re ... B001VXU474
and immediately
(6) USE THE CORRECT WRENCH
http://www.csnstores.com/asp/show_detai ... ku=IHI1184
before RE-INSTALLING COAT THE THREADS WITH ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, as it tends to prevent future problems
yes you can most likely get the bolt out by tapping it and the use of lubricant spray or heating and cooling or just the freeze spray but your taking a significant chance of the stud not being nearly as easy to remove, its your choice naturally but in the long run doing things correctly using all the steps in order will save you a good deal of time and money.
the lube, heat,lube,freeze in rapid succession, then the gentle but consistent twist torque of the easy out in the drilled centered hole in the broken bolt or vise grip applied to a bolt or stud thats sticking above the surface enough to grip will remove most studs or bolts, installing the studs or bolts with ANTI-SEIZE on the threads prevents this from occurring
READ THE LINK
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=easyout#p1026
obviously I'm not there, to help out, but repeated heat, lubricate, freeze and lube application cycles WILL allow the threads to be broken loose from the corrosion, in the threads holding the stud or bolt, its simply a mater of repeated expansion and contraction of the two metals and the difference in heat transfer between the two parts, most new guys get into a hurry, thinking they can do it once or force it, , and don,t use enough heat or lube spray or freeze spray and try to force it rather than allow the repeated cycling to allow the lubricant to seep into the threads.
yes it usually helps to drill a small centered hole thru the bolt so lubricant spray can act or seep in from both ends of the threads, but forcing it usually results in the broken extractor bit you experienced, your surely not the first or the last guy to do that its part of the learning curve.
if the bolt can,t be grasp with vise grips youll need to center punch then carefully drill the busted section of bolt or stud., DON.T by cheap imported screw extractors the cheap extractors tend to be hardened excessively and BRITTLE, take your time, is it won,t back out keep repeating the heat.lube and freeze cycles, it will come out, there are reverse twist drill bits that can also tend to make the process far easier in many cases, and remember use of quality drill bits and a drill press usually gets far more consistent results than a hand held drill thats rarely going to be strait or centered.
cheap drill bits drill bit extractors or rushing the process invites failure
high drill speed or cutting without lubricant or excessive pressure only causes the drill bit to burn, dull or wander take your time and do whats required slowly and carefully with quality drills and taps or extractors ,if you can,t slow down,and do whats required or don,t have the correct, tools take it to a good local machine shop.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4714&p=12809&hilit=drill+bits#p12809
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=970&p=1691&hilit=drill+bits#p1691
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=7132&p=23959#p23959
http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html
HERES A DIFFERENT OPTION
http://www.theinductor.com/
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/W88030/1 ... 7AodeF8Ajg
on rare occasions you'll have a nut rusted too a stud that needs to be split off and the stud re-threaded or replaced
a few facts!
ALL of us eventually find were forced to deal with a broken stud or bolt,or sensor that breaks off in the block or heads,it helps a great deal to lower your chances of busting off or stripping a bolt by soaking it in penetrating oil and heating and rapidly cooling it in repeated cycles at the first indication a bolt or studs stuck rather than trying to force it, what your trying to free up, and remove and replace it, hopefully without needing to repair the threads, and its location will determine to a great extent the method youll use to deal with that problem.matter, as to the method to be used in freeing up the bolt threads, and the tools, lubricants or process youll find useful, yeah! we ALL screw up! but with experience you learn some restraint and you learn to take your time!
IN MOST CASES SOAKING WITH A GOOD PENETRATING & LUBRICATING SPRAY< AND SOME REPEATED HEATING AND FREEZING CYCLES, WITH A TORCH AND FREEZE SPRAY, and REPEATED SPRAY OF THAT PENETRATING OIL WILL FREE UP THE THREADS ON THE BROKEN PART, ENOUGH FOR AN EXTRACTOR BIT TO SPIN IT OUT IF PROPERLY USED
EXAMPLE
small bolts like brake bleeder valves on brake calipers, heating the area with a propane torch and rapidly cooling metal with a freeze spray rapidly , cycling the temps tends to have the metal expand and contract, loosening the bond in the rusted or corroded threads, because they expand and contract unevenly, this can be very useful in allowing you to soak in and use various penetrating lubricants to free up jammed threads
BUSTED OR STRIPPED THREADS CAN BE REPAIRED THRU USE OF A HELICOIL OR WELDING AND DRILLING & RE-TAPPING
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-repair-kits/=wjqvpt
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1262&p=2712&hilit=taps+dies#p2712
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4714&p=18266#p18266
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/wheel-studs-and-replacement.4414/#post-55060
Ive used marvel mystery oil and acetone mixed 50%/50% for decades as a penetrating oil and it works better than most of the commercial mixtures In spray cans Ive tried IF you soak the nut/bolt repeatedly then let it set over night especially if you heat the bolt with a torch and cool it with that mix a few times so it expands and contracts with heat, and the mix gets to penetrate a bit and seep into micro cracks
yeah, IF I was your local machine shop Id welcome these type of repair jobs, I'd be thrilled to make a quick $30-$40 for what might take them 15 minutes to do and cost them less than $4 TOO!
having access to the correct tools and the skill and knowledge to use them correctly makes a job the average guy finds rather challenging a whole lot less difficult
WATCH VIDEOS, YOULL LEARN A GOOD DEAL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52-37pPAJ0c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K34RS6M11uw
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-Pc-Tita ... 61411.html
stop think it thru ,yes its going to be a whole lot cheaper to buy and use the correct spray, penetrating oil or freeze spray to freeze and contract the bolts diam. or heat the surrounding metal and rapidly cool it with penetrating oil than it will be to use tools than it will be sometimes used incorrectly to bugger up, and strip the bolt hole, or bolt threads and need to re-weld and re-drill and tap the intake, brakes or what ever your working on, after you screw it up, buy the two sprays, both the freeze and lubricant sprays use the torch to heat the bolt, use the penetrate oil to cool and lube the bolt, use the freeze to loosen it easily
reverse twist drill bits can be useful
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... 7AodjQIAhw
(1)heating the brake fluid bleed fitting cherry red destroys the metals temper and hardness and makes it very easy to round off or sheer off the fitting (neither being ideal)
(2)the object is to loosen or replace the fitting without damage to the brakes, yes heating with a torch and rapid cooling with penetrating oil can and does frequently result in loosening the fitting but heating more than about 300F reduces the metals strength and frequently results in compounding the problem when the bleed valve fitting rounds off or breaks
heres the cure on those bleed valves
heat the area slightly spray oil to cool and penetrate then lay a shop rag on the brake calipers to cover all but the bleed fitting and spray with the freeze spray, the result is the fitting contracts faster than the surrounding metal freeing the threads in most cases on the first or second application of this COMBINED PROCESS of heat,penetrating oil, and rapid freezing of the valve rapidly followed by use of a long 6 point box wrench applying torque to the fitting, (BTW( a couple whacks with a plastic mallet can help in some cases
http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
lets assume youve busted an exhaust manifold bolt
these have been repeatedly heated and cooled so heating and spraying with a good penetrating oil is a good first try, use of the freeze spray can be very helpful IF you can grasp the bolt above the surface its screwed into,but if it sheared off flush you have little choice but to heat, use penetrating oil, and then use a center punch to dimple the broken bolt body, and drill it out the center of the bolt with drills that are slightly smaller diam (hopefully all the way thru, spray penetrating oil so it reaches both ends of the threads and use an EASY-OUT reverse rotation bit to extract the remaining section of busted bolt thread.
READ THE LINKED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=easyout#p1026
http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/b ... olts.shtml
WELDING A NUT ON A BOLT THATS SHEARED OFF WORKS AT TIMES
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRrz-cphBY4
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/rem ... -bolt.html
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=wel ... 9C64EDFC2D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6w2grAV-oc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BFUfGKU_ts
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=3283&p=8681&hilit=label#p8681
spray busted stud or bolt threads with penetrating oil
AT TIME I KNOW YOU GUYS HAD TO IGNORE READING THE LINKS
[b]youll frequently have issues with locations that make it difficult to hold the washer or nut centered over the busted stud while getting ready to weld due to either clearance or lack of having 3 hands available, most of the non-WELDERS MIGHT SUGGEST MAGNETS ,but as most welders soon learn direct heat or an electrical arc kills magnets rapidly, DUCT tape tends to hold long enough to allow the MIG OR TIG welder to form a BEAD but it will of course burn in seconds. many times you can use a spare TIG welding rod bent into a long hook to some higher support point and wrapped around the nut plus duct tape or a long wood dowel wedged in place to get that temporary placement issue handled
find a matching washer and nut , placing a fender washer as a shield washer under the nut your welding to the busted bolt or stud helps prevent weld from attaching to anything but the threaded shaft, and the heat drives the penetrating oil into the threads, duct tape and or long needle nose plies come in handy holding it in place and a MIG or TIG welder is preferred
fill the nut with weld and get the weld pool of molten metal to attach to the busted stud so concentrate on the center heat area
removed busted stud or bolt with nut welded on
in an ideal world youll have a decent center punch
Q: What causes an exhaust manifold stud/bolt to break?
A: The exhaust manifolds are formed from the factory using fine grain cast iron, and like most metals, it expands and contracts during duty cycles of heating and cooling. This expansion happens naturally, and at first, the manifold and mounting studs are in a state of “elastic deformation.” Elastic deformation is basically expansion and contraction over a period of time retaining the original size and shape. Each duty cycle will provide tension stress on the studs or bolts that hold the manifold in place. The mounting hardware exhibits flexibility over time. However, as the manifold continues to expand and contract more dimensionally, each consecutive time creates larger and larger tension forces that move beyond the elastic state of deformation and become what is referred to as “plastic deformation.” Basically the manifold stretches beyond return and fractures the mounting stud, leaving the manifold permanently deformed and dimensionally changed. This expansion and stretching of the manifold bolts over numerous duty cycles eventually causes too much tension on the bolt(s), stretching them beyond capacity and causing them to fail.
Information provided by: ProMaxx Tools
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... 4&ct=image
so the drill won,t wander, off center in the first bit of drilling the hole for the bolt extractor, soak with penetrating oil, insert extractor bit , inside the drilled hole and spin the bolt out as it grabs the bolt internally and allows you to rotate it counter clock wise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7ftJTUbp4o
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_5127433_use-easy-outs.html
RELATED THREADS
viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1264&p=6141&hilit=block+taps+threads#p6141
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=+rust+bolt+extractor#p1026
those freeze sprays seem to work best when you previously cycle or rapidly repeat an expansion contraction cycle several times, pre-heat the problem threads several times with a propane torch to about 250 degrees F and cool them off with a 50%/50% mix of marvel mystery oil and acetone then let the freeze spray free it up on about the third or forth heat-lube-cool freeze in rapid succession, that maximizes the expansion & contraction and tends to allow the penetrating lube to suck into the threads
one more place a IR temp gun comes in handy
http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm
when selecting an IR gun for automotive use, you really want to be able to read from 0 F deg-about 1400F deg. to cover most conditions you'll test for
keep some penertating oil/acetone, mix a torch, and freeze spray plus the IR temp gun, in the shop
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=easyout#p1026
http://www.freealloil.com/
http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.cfm
if you can drill thru the center of the broken bolt with a bit approximately 2/3 the diam. of the broken bolt, until the bit goes ALL the way thru then soak the $%^ out of it with FREEALL penetrating oil,(this stuffs amazing) this will allow the oil to soak in from both ends of the broken threaded section, let it soak at least 30 minute while you re-apply more spray oil every few minutes, then insert the easy out or reverse twist drill bit,and gently twist the broken bolt remains out of the threaded hole, BTW heating and cooling the bolt, helps. heat with a propane torch the cooling it with the spray oil helps to loosen its grip on the threads if its really stuck
http://www.jackstoolshed.com/index/page ... ll+Bit+Set
your local hard ware store probably has COBALT DRILL BITS, or DIAMOND DRILL BITS, but read the label you need, a bit rated for hard steel, take your time, drill a lower RPM speeds and keep the bit wet with spray oil AT ALL TIMES or it will burn and dull the edge, youll most likely need a 1/8" and a matching EASY OUT
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/drillfaq.htm
http://www.askthebuilder.com/How_To_Dri ... ideo.shtml
http://www.toolprice.com/category/screw ... drillbits/
http://www.toolprice.com/product/1218A/ ... moval.html
http://www.toolprice.com/product/8304D/ ... o_USA.html
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine
tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional
machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from
a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ................ 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ................ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix..............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone,
( IN MY EXPERIENCE MARVEL MYSTERY OIL AND ACETONE MIXED 50%/50% works slightly better and faster).
Note the "home brew" was better
than any commercial product in this one particular test.AND ID POINT OUT THAT MMO/ACETONE MIX PENETRATES QUICKLY AND SEEMS TO WORK WHERE MANY OTHER PENETRATING OIL FAILS
IF youve ever rounded off a flare nut, on a master cylinder, brake caliper,transmission or radiator and you want to prevent it from happening again, theres a simple procedure for getting them loose that works about 90% of the time
IN THE FUTURE WHEN DEALING WITH FLARE NUTS, IF THEY ARE NOT EASILY TURNED, STOP AND FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE
(1) spray with a good penetrating oil,
(2) heat briefly with propane torch, or acetylene torch
(3) spray with OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL like pb blaster / liquid wrench, freealloil etc. and tap frequently and lightly with a hammer on the broken stud or bolt to allow vibration to let the penetrating oil seep into the threads if it can,
http://www.freealloil.com/
(2) heat briefly with propane torch
(3) spray with
http://www.freealloil.com/ OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL like pb blaster / liquid wrench,\l etc.
(4) wait 5 minutes MINIMUM and RE-SPRAY with
http://www.freealloil.com/ OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL like pb blaster / liquid wrench, etc.
HEAT works in some cases but heat expands both the bolt and the area around it, repeated cycling of heat and rapid cooling with penetrating lubricant spray oil can help, but theres a different option, you can freeze the bolt, this contracts the metal and loosens it, and spray directly on the bolt shrinks it noticeably faster than the much larger mass surounding it, so try both options
(5)spray for a minimum of 15-16 seconds with
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Freeze-Re ... B001VXU474
and immediately
(6) USE THE CORRECT WRENCH
http://www.csnstores.com/asp/show_detai ... ku=IHI1184
before RE-INSTALLING COAT THE THREADS WITH ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, as it tends to prevent future problems
yes you can most likely get the bolt out by tapping it and the use of lubricant spray or heating and cooling or just the freeze spray but your taking a significant chance of the stud not being nearly as easy to remove, its your choice naturally but in the long run doing things correctly using all the steps in order will save you a good deal of time and money.
the lube, heat,lube,freeze in rapid succession, then the gentle but consistent twist torque of the easy out in the drilled centered hole in the broken bolt or vise grip applied to a bolt or stud thats sticking above the surface enough to grip will remove most studs or bolts, installing the studs or bolts with ANTI-SEIZE on the threads prevents this from occurring
READ THE LINK
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1026&hilit=easyout#p1026
obviously I'm not there, to help out, but repeated heat, lubricate, freeze and lube application cycles WILL allow the threads to be broken loose from the corrosion, in the threads holding the stud or bolt, its simply a mater of repeated expansion and contraction of the two metals and the difference in heat transfer between the two parts, most new guys get into a hurry, thinking they can do it once or force it, , and don,t use enough heat or lube spray or freeze spray and try to force it rather than allow the repeated cycling to allow the lubricant to seep into the threads.
yes it usually helps to drill a small centered hole thru the bolt so lubricant spray can act or seep in from both ends of the threads, but forcing it usually results in the broken extractor bit you experienced, your surely not the first or the last guy to do that its part of the learning curve.
if the bolt can,t be grasp with vise grips youll need to center punch then carefully drill the busted section of bolt or stud., DON.T by cheap imported screw extractors the cheap extractors tend to be hardened excessively and BRITTLE, take your time, is it won,t back out keep repeating the heat.lube and freeze cycles, it will come out, there are reverse twist drill bits that can also tend to make the process far easier in many cases, and remember use of quality drill bits and a drill press usually gets far more consistent results than a hand held drill thats rarely going to be strait or centered.
cheap drill bits drill bit extractors or rushing the process invites failure
high drill speed or cutting without lubricant or excessive pressure only causes the drill bit to burn, dull or wander take your time and do whats required slowly and carefully with quality drills and taps or extractors ,if you can,t slow down,and do whats required or don,t have the correct, tools take it to a good local machine shop.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4714&p=12809&hilit=drill+bits#p12809
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=970&p=1691&hilit=drill+bits#p1691
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=7132&p=23959#p23959
http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html
HERES A DIFFERENT OPTION
http://www.theinductor.com/
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/W88030/1 ... 7AodeF8Ajg
on rare occasions you'll have a nut rusted too a stud that needs to be split off and the stud re-threaded or replaced
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