renegade intake? for cross fires

Gibbles said:
TV cable connector end is a total pos, i had noidea however the aftermarket cable end popped off of the throttle bracket.
Click to expand...
Picture would be worth a thousand words!

Gibbles said:
I even made it through gears, however od never locked in for me.
Click to expand...
Are you talking about 4th gear or torque converter lockup?

I wouldn't drive it without the TV cable adjusted properly. There is a very small
latitude in your adjustment, one click is all I would adjust from the OEM specs.
 
Torque converter never locked up

And what happened was the new tv cable throttle body connector end has a split going down the center for what I assumed was ease of removal.

the original end has a hole going straight through the center, and then a crimped end preventing it from coming off.

The issue is the connector end having the cut right through the middle made it very weak!

when I reconnected it last night I moved the throttle all the way open and it popped off again...

I have these stainless zip ties for the thermal wrap I'm using on brake lines, hoses, ect I want to protect from the headers.

I used those to lock the tv cable on last night.

This is what the end looks like
upload_2016-2-28_10-51-47.png


I think this type I think would have been 100% better
upload_2016-2-28_10-52-45.png

I also think they should make the connector ends bright orange or something... :rolleyes:
 
and I'm feeling pretty certain that if I got away with out doing serious damage, I'm sure that I severely reduced the life span of my transmission.

Oh and to add insult to injury, I got a flat tire yesterday as well :rolleyes:


So right now with the tv cable tied on, the car is shifting pretty firm, however I'm not sure if the transmission is slipping in gear or not.
 
The Original GM 700R4 TV -Transmission Throttle cable is Best Likely.
Not sure of NOS Availability for 1984 C4 Corvettes.
When I rebuilt the 700R4 in my 1987 Corvette Convertible I purchased a New NOS GM TV Cable from my local GM Dealership. $30 or so I recall in 2010.
 
Max Line Pressure is only obtained when the TV CABLE IS CONNECTED AND PROPERLY ADJUSTED.
THE 2-4 BAND & 3-4 CLUTCH IS THE WEAK LINK IN ALL 700R4 & 4L60E.
99% FAILURES THERE.
FRONT OIL PUMP WAS VASTLY IMPROVED COME 1984.
 
Ok so there is no doubt now that I have a blown transmission due to that tv cable...

I'm going to try and drop the transmission my self, from what I have been reading I can get the transmission out the bottom as long as I can get the car a minimum of 14in up.

I came really close to that height over the winter, so a new set of jackstands this weekend for the extra height and I'll see where that takes me.

from there I'll start looking at transmission jacks and see how much extra space I might require and then go from there.

For the rebuild I'm toying with the idea of doing it my self, I did a valve body a while back and I have been reading up on how everything comes apart.

Lots of parts but everything looks pretty straight forward...

And if I screw up I'm looking at ordering one anyways and using my transmission as a core...

Keeping my options open...
have any suggestions for good rebuilders?
One place I found doing some searching... FourthGearinc.com

This could be a good chance to get a nice transmission...

And the good news is I got my other fuel injector installed yesterday and went for a test drive, the car runs fantastic, it's got tons of power and sounds great!
The midrange thing is still there... not as bad but still there.
I think the computer will be the next step.
 
I'm working out some details related to rebuilding my transmission, biggest issues I'm running into is getting the car high enough to use a transmission jack.

Most of the guys I know that have a lift in their garage cannot have the car left for more than a very short period of time so I'm still weighing having the car towed home during the rebuild, and then towed back to have the transmission installed (via flat bed).

For the rebuild kit I'm looking at this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171415505977

Then sunshell http://www.ebay.com/itm/111662857784

Separator plate: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320730662018

For the bushings I may just buy a tool kit, however it's possible a camshaft bearing tool might do the job.

I also might be able to find a local builder that can swap the bushings out for me.

and then I need to select a torque converter... one thing I'm not totally clear on is how a higher stall will affect highway driving.

say if I install a 2,000 rpm stall and my highway cruise is more like 1,500 rpm will I run into issues ect...

This will be my first transmission rebuild, I did do a valve body on my S10 a few years back, I used the HD separator plate while at it.
it went pretty well overall, the hardest part was keeping track of the metal balls, however with instructions it was pretty easy to find their proper location.

Reading up on the transmission teardown it does not look all that bad, I already have a clutch spring compressor on order, I just need some heavy duty snap ring plyers...
 
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Ive removed near countless transmissions
with these tools.
youll need a quality high lift low profile floor jack thats no more than 3.5" tall flat on the floor and lifts to 20" minimum shop around theres a huge variation in floor jack quality
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60678.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-68056.html

a cheap but functional tranny jack and 4 12 ton jack stands


image_328.jpg


you could easily build 4 of these wood jack stand replacements for under $70, for all materials, simply have home depot cut 12 standard 2"x 4" boards into 15.5" lengths and a sheet of 1/2" marine plywood into 15.5 x 15.5 inch squares and obviously buy wood glue and lots of 3" deck screws
f250stands.jpg


and a decent floor jack
btw while its not aluminum its a decent floor jack for the price especially if you get the 20% off discount ticket price.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68050.html
image_12170.jpg

to muscle it up into place while getting the bolts lined up
tcclearance.gif

rearcbeam.png


cross_membervc.jpg

if your reading this and are not familiar with the c4 corvette drive train configuration or what a c-beam is this may help

vettejack1c.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-steel-jack-stands-61599.html

450tr.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

better
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html



1500tr.jpg

even better yet
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-60636.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ack-makes-all-the-difference.5512/#post-43359
 
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Thanks!

How high did you have to get the car to remove/install using that jack?

And I think I like the motorcycle jack the best, looks to be the best overall option. :cool:
 
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your corvette will have enough clearance for you, on a creeper,
the transmission jack and removing the transmission with 4 12 ton jack stands on the frame
328teeth.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/
welding up something similar to this creeper would be a good welding project for an afternoon well spent

now heres a TOOL that at first glance may seem silly, BUT the more I look at this the more I think its a good idea ,
after thinking about it it makes perfect sense.....its a creeper with a built in safety roll cage to prevent getting crushed if the car did fall
a DECENT WELDER and some WELDING SKILLS,
a short trip to the local metal supply store, a few quality casters,
and a free weekend could result in a custom version magically appearing in your garage for under $200,
but having a nice chrome /padded ,pro made version will look nicer
I just can,t tell you how often a decent welder comes in handy around the shop

This is the picture they show on how it can protect you.
Id combine the two creeper designs below
creeper15inmechda0.jpg



kps-krd-slrd_w.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-polyurethane-heavy-duty-swivel-caster-69852.html
having larger swivel casters mounted outboard like the creeper above,
and the body support just off the floor, makes a good deal of mechanical and stability sense,
adding the roll cage support safety loops could save your life
21949.jpg




repair-fail.jpg

sometimes it looks like morons tempt fate and really have a death wish
 
A local guy actually just died from his truck falling on him the other day.

Sounds like a bad way to die... :(

Today my task is to cleanup the garage and get the car up leaving one side of the garage clear...

I have been reading up on how to rebuild a 700r4... I'm going to try it!

I found some used transmission tools on ebay i have on order.

For about $100 i have a clutch spring compressor, servo removal tool, and a tool to help disassemble the pump ot servo (i forget).

Watching youtube and reviewing my factory manual it does not look that bad...

The kit i'm looking at has a pump upgrade from 7vanes to 10, forward sprag upgrade, and I'll buy the upgraded sunshell.

Any other things to get while im at it would be helpful.
 
The 700R4 is not an easy transmission to rebuild correct.
In 2010 I rebuilt and blueprinted the 700R4 in my 1987 Corvette Convertible. Roadster.
I helped one other friend on Corvette Forum back.in 2011 Rebuild the 700R4 in his 1987 C4 Vette Roadster start to finish online.
We did it nightly LIVE On his thread.
Mike is in California & I am in Illinois .
It took 3 weeks helping Mike Nightly.
100% sucess rebuild too.
It was a C4 CORVETTE TECH STICKY LINK AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE.
87Vette81biggirl is my old user name there.
 
I looked at your kit and it only has a pic, no parts list.......I didn't see any
selective thrust washers, you are going to need them to set your end play.
Find a local parts house might be the best option to get those few things
you are going to need.

You will also need some assembly paste to hold things in place while you
assemble them. Vaseline can be used, but I found it to be too light and
would not hold things very well. I ended up using GREEN"Assemblee Goo",
which is stable up to 130° F.

Take lots and lots of pics, you can't have too many when you get ready to
assemble your parts. I took lots of exploded view type pics from front, side
and back perspectives. Check out my build thread for my 200-4R transmission.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-200-4r-transmission-project.7230/

Buy both the ATSG manual (it's what repair shops use) and DVD video. I used
both extensively.

http://www.technicalvideos.com/videos/transmission.phtml

.
 
Thanks!

I got the massive 12 ton stands today and i'm slowly working them in...

I have it so 2 notches are showing on yhe front, and 1 on the back...

I decided to verify the locations of the upper trans to engine bolts before i take it further.

Also the new exhaust system is very nice since i can unbolt it right before the rear end, making jacking much easier.

And i have a bucket of the green lube ordered with some tools.

Also these jackstands are very solid!
 
Gibbles said:
I got the massive 12 ton stands today and i'm slowly working them in...

I decided to verify the locations of the upper trans to engine bolts before i take it further.
Click to expand...

You lost me with the above two statements, don't understand ?????
 
Getting the car up on the 12 ton jackstands grumpy suggested.

And the car is pretty high up in the air, had to verify access to the upper transmission to engine bolt location before i needed a stool to get to them.
 
yes, those 12 ton stands are large and heavy, but if the 12 ton jack stands are properly placed under the frame the corvette solidly stable and theres enough room for you to easily use tools and a transmission jack under the car even while using a mechanics creeper.
btw as I'm sure youll find out many types of floor jacks wont lift the car high enough to place the jack stands under the frame unless the process is done in stages with a 4x4 short wood block or other spacer on the jack pad
pictures of the car up on the jack stands from a few angles would be great if you can get them posted, similar to this one posted below
reading the fine print on max lift helps when selecting a jack
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68050.html
vettejack1c.jpg
I remember one of my neighbors complaining that the 12 ton jack stands were useless as they were too tall..., I had no idea what he was talking about UNTIL I saw his floor jack

it maxs out at 13" lift
http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T82001S...1457309669&sr=8-23&keywords=10+ton+floor+jack
 
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I have them in the same spots pictured above, however here is a cell phone picture of it.

Note I had to lower the car to support the transmission since the C beam is unbolted right now.

upload_2016-3-6_20-21-45.png

This is very solid :)

also note my large stack of wood I have screwed together under the transmission, I had to build that in order to get the car high enough for the large jack stands.

I actually raised the car up in stages using my shorter jack stands, once I had it high enough I pulled the rear exhaust section so I could jack it higher by the rear diff.
 
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